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Revell 1/48 Tornado intakes


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On 10/2/2019 at 8:56 AM, Uncle Uncool said:

:doh:Shoot! How long since they were released, Mark?

 

I think at least a year. Since Autumn of 2018.

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11 hours ago, JayBee said:

For me "flight mode" means engines are running. ;)

I think you need to amend your definition.🤪

Sadly the Phase Hangar seamless intakes don't address the question of intake wall thickness in way of the suction relief doors, simply following the contours if the Revell parts.  If you are going to model your Tornado with suction relief doors open you are going to need to (at the very least) cut back the outer walls of the kit intake tunnels to just beyond the two small fairings that Revell have you install just abaft the intakes.  In all honesty you'd need to go back almost as far as the aft bulkhead iver the main wheel bays for an accurate appearance and to reduce the "kink" on the inboard walls to provide a nearly constant cross section to the duct.

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What's with the "suction Relief" door.... the correct name these items is Auxiliary intake or inlet doors. because there little or no forward speed (ram air affect) the engines carn't get enough via the main intake so they open to allow more air in. Can be seen with running guards fitted during engine testing.  

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On 10/5/2019 at 7:06 AM, stever219 said:

If you are going to model your Tornado with auxiliary intakes - or inlet doors - open you are going to need to (at the very least) cut back the outer walls of the kit intake tunnels to just beyond the two small fairings that Revell have you install just abaft the intakes.  In all honesty you'd need to go back almost as far as the aft bulkhead iver the main wheel bays for an accurate appearance and to reduce the "kink" on the inboard walls to provide a nearly constant cross section to the duct.

:hmmm:So, in other words, Steve; if I were to modify the suckers in the Revell Tonka in order to depict some open auxiliary intakes (or inlet doors), should I have to do something like this to those suckers, grossly?

 

spacer.png 

 

Or could you please sketch your own red lines on the port suckers? I'm about to use the Revell sucker parts on my Italeri IDS Tonka.

Cheers,

 

Unc2 

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30 minutes ago, Uncle Uncool said:

:hmmm:So, in other words, Steve; if I were to modify the suckers in the Revell Tonka in order to depict some open auxiliary intakes (or inlet doors), should I have to do something like this to those suckers, grossly?

 

spacer.png 

 

Or could you please sketch your own red lines on the port suckers? I'm about to use the Revell sucker parts on my Italeri IDS Tonka.

Cheers,

 

Unc2  

Uncyour lines aren’t too far out at all, but they should fair in to the tunnel walls above the wheel bays more gradually, a bit like a flattened “S”.  If I could work out how to post images from my phone or iPad I could do a quick mock-up for you (I’m sorry, I don’t know how to modify your image to show it either).  Broadly the outer wall of the intake tunnel should follow the line of the fuselage outer skin with inner wall being parallel to that.  Once you get to the sloping section behind the wheel bays it’s starting to get a bit academic, unless you’re going to illuminate the intake tunnels.

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Thing is ... and I'm an RAF Tornado fan too, why would anyone want seamless intakes on a Tonka kit of any scale? the real thing is far from seamless and hard to replicate in 1/48 properly with finesse, its far from being as smooth as an F-16's intake.

This is what an RAF Tornado intake looks like, its not seamless, its got lots of panels and bits n bobs going on.

wxRSUE0.jpg

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16 hours ago, stever219 said:

Broadly the outer wall of the intake tunnel should follow the line of the fuselage outer skin with inner wall being parallel to that.  Once you get to the sloping section behind the wheel bays it’s starting to get a bit academic, unless you’re going to illuminate the intake tunnels.

Well, Steve; I've been giving it a lot of thought overnight. I came down to thinking whether it's easier to add a 5mm piece vac-form plastic section to match the exact contours of the intake right at the forward part of the Revell suckers in order to deal with the auxiliary intakes (or inlet doors), then substract those same 5mm on the middle part of the inner intake part, just before the step, more or less like this:

 

spacer.png

 

Wha'dyathink...? Today's evening is Indian Pale Ale time, so after having guzzled down some pints I usually have visions and revelations about how to best deal with this kind of modelling challenges :lol: Tell ya what it's occurred to me tomorrow.

Cheers,

 

Unc2

 

  

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I’ve seen, and had, worse ideas Unc2.  That looks like it could work rather well, and with less work than my original thoughts.  You’ll need to trim down the forward “arms to fit inside the fuselage sides, but you knew that already.😉😉

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  • 4 months later...

Right... Having now not only bought the Eduard Tornado F.3 but also the Gulf War GR.1 I decided to buy some Phase Hanger intakes for three of my kits. The rest will probably end up with intake covers.

 

Btw, the Eduard kit is just the Revell kit (no surprise there) with PE and resin wheels. The decals are printed by Eduard and not by Cartograf as I had hoped.

 

Jens 

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On 10/18/2019 at 10:08 PM, One 48 said:

Thing is ... and I'm an RAF Tornado fan too, why would anyone want seamless intakes on a Tonka kit of any scale? the real thing is far from seamless and hard to replicate in 1/48 properly with finesse, its far from being as smooth as an F-16's intake.

This is what an RAF Tornado intake looks like, its not seamless, its got lots of panels and bits n bobs going on.

wxRSUE0.jpg

 

Having spent 3 years working on Tonkas and going down the intakes alot, i can confirm there is alot of panels, rows of rivets and fasteners all the way down to engine blades. Plenty of room down there too, just not nice to be down there cleaning dead bird out during the summer.

 

Also theres a big dip in the intake right at the front of the engine, water use to pool there along with a dip in the bottom near the aux air doors ( you can actually see water in the intake in the photo on the right hand side of the intake) 

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