Bringing Out Panel Lines

[Coutinho]

After painting a model, in particular a plane, what is the best way to bring out the panel lines? Using a simple black pencil? I'm assuming any panel line highlighting should also be done before applying a final varnish?

 

Thank you for any help!

[stever219]

Don't!  Seriously though most airframe manufacturers try to get the structural panels as tight together as possible: if there's a gap there's a problem.   Removable or openable panels and doors may show an outline but it won't be the stark dark grey or black often favoured by many modellers so, in this case I think, less is most definitely more.  Some of the most extreme examples I have seen were models of RAF jets in the anti-flash White scheme with every panel outlined in black: they've looked like three-dimensional renderings of the three-view drawings found in books and magazines.  Another common occurrence is a panel line that stops at the ecge of a decal.

[Rabbit Leader]

Steve raises some very good points and I’ll agree that applied incorrectly, panel line washes can really hamper the finish and accuracy of a model aircraft. On the other hand it also brings out the detail and helps create a miniaturised replica of the subject you are trying to depict. There are many techniques and products available on the market and I would highly recommend wasting a few hours by watching as many YouTube videos as possible until you find a technique you fancy. 

 

The saying ‘Less is more’ (as noted above) certainly applies to aircraft modelling. 

 

Good luck.. Dave 

[davidelvy]

My preference is to look at pictures of the real thing, then make a decision on how much attention, if any, I want to bring to the panel lines. On the real thing sometimes panel lines are clearly visible and sometimes they are not, depending on surface wear, dirt, lighting and viewpoint. On a model, because Is is small and lighting is more likely to be controlled, accented panel lines will always be visible. 

Having said that, a model is a representation of its subject, not an exact replica, so there will always be some “artistic licence”.

[Gorby]

It's down to personal choice. I agree that it can look false when it's overdone, but when it is done subtly it can add a little more interest. If you're brilliant at pre-shading then you might not need it, but I'm not so I like to use panel or pin washes.

 

My Method:

As I use acrylic paint, I buy cheap oil paints, thin them down enormously in 'low odour oil thinner' until it's as thin as water. After I've sealed the decals with another gloss coat I use a fine brush to let the wash run unto the panel lines, don't worry if it looks a mess. Then after a few minutes I use a piece of kitchen roll dipped lightly in thinners, to wipe off the wash (in the direction of the airflow). If you think you've taken off enough, the odds are that you will need to take off some more. Leave to dry.

 

It is much cheaper to mix your own washes and dead simple to do. It also allows you to mix up a batch for particular subjects – for desert areas, use sandy yellowy browns and for very dark colours I use a lighter dirty greyish wash. I wouldn't use just black, that can look very stark and false.

 

I'm not saying that this is the correct method, it's the method I find that works for me. Just have a play around with it.

[Wez]

The only time a real aircraft will have a truly uniform finish is immediately after it leaves the paint shop, after that all bets are off.  Real aircraft are NOT pre-shaded, dirt and wear accumulates in service.

 

Aircraft have numerous vents and drains which expel different types of liquids and gasses, the liquids run in certain directions depending on whether the aircraft is static or flying, they're also different colours, some will strip paint, others discolour it.  Grease tends to smear.  National and unit markings are not respected by this and will be as affected as the rest of the airframe.  Cockpits and aircraft interiors weather too!

 

Panels opened during routine maintenance will be more prominent than those that are rarely or never opened, that said dirt likes to accumulate at joints etc, but not every single one!  Routinely accessed panels may show evidence of chipping around their edges and fasteners.

 

Groundcrew routinely access specific areas and use specific routes to do so, these areas will weather differentially to other areas of the aircraft, their activities change the lustre of the finish in that specific area, typically matt finishes become buffed to semi matt, gloss finish become slightly dulled.  How often the aircraft is cleaned and operating environment are important factors to take into consideration.

 

Weathering occurs differentially too, typically leading edges bear the brunt of anything impacting the airframe (insects, dust, atmospheric dirt), some of this abrades the surface, some merely accumulates there.

 

@davidelvy offers good advice, look at pictures of your subject, preferably lots of them, in the operating environment you're depicting and under different lighting conditions, this will give you a good idea of how an aircraft weathers.  Try and envisage the processes going on there and try to replicate them.

 

One fad which seems to being pushed is the use of riveting tools to give the airframe a more "realistic" look.  If the divots caused by these tools were scaled up they'd be deeper than the aircraft skin, which would result in the aircraft being re-skinned or written off.  Most metal skinned aircraft are flush riveted however many fasteners (rivets, screws, bolts, quick release fasteners), are not flush and stand proud of the surface yet I see no rush to "realistically" reproduce those too.  Use of such tools strike me as being a case of the Emperors new clothes!

 

I can't offer you advice on how to reproduce these effects, my comments are based on over 35 years of aircraft maintenance and engineering. 

 

At the end of the day, it's your model and your choice, you can do whatever you like with it and after all, it is a representation of the real thing and there is a certain amount of artistic licence involved.  To me though, a replica should closely replicate those real processes.

 

Asking advice is one way of learning but you could try and experiment and see what suits you, if you're happy with the result great, if not think about what went wrong and try something different next time.

 

 

Edited February 27, 2018 by Wez

[Pat C]

29 minutes ago, Wez said:

Most metal skinned aircraft are flush riveted however many fasteners (rivets, screws, bolts, quick release fasteners), are not flush and stand proud of the surface yet I see no rush to "realistically" reproduce those too

Au contraire Wez, you can buy decal sheets of lines of proud rivet heads. I tried some and they vanished under the first coat of paint. I doubt I will bother with them again!

 

pat

[Wez]

21 minutes ago, Pat C said:

Au contraire Wez, you can buy decal sheets of lines of proud rivet heads. I tried some and they vanished under the first coat of paint. I doubt I will bother with them again!

 

pat

Precisely Pat!  Decals are flat, pointless exercise.

 

Airfix used to get criticised for the Phantom Riveter but in many cases, his representations were closer to the real thing!  Not always though.

 

 

Edited February 11, 2018 by Wez

[Army_Air_Force]

On my 1/48th B-26 hangar queen, I went more for a dirty wash than concentrating on panel lines. Certain panels and wear was done dry brushing silver after the decals had been applied, then I made a dirty ( thin ) wash to simulate rain streaks down the old airframe. The age and use of the aircraft being modelled will affect how dirty it gets, but study lots of photos of the type, to see what dirt is generic to the aircraft type and how it flows around the airframe.

 

 

 

 

This 1/6 scale R/C B-26 was also given a dirty wash which dulled down the paint and markings.

 

 

Edited November 17, 2020 by Army_Air_Force

[CzarPeppers]

Are you brush painting or airbrushing? Back when I still painted my models with a brush, after I did what I felt would be the second last coat of paint on the area I was painting, I would use a pencil with a softer lead (I think it was a 4B) and go over all the panel lines within the area I was painting. Once I did that I would take a one of those ear swab things and go over the panel lines with it in a small circular motion which would spread the soft lead (well, graphite) around and created a shading effect. Then Usually I'd rub straight along all the panel lines after to blend it a bit better. After that I did the final coat of paint on top of it, if I thought the shading was still too strong I just did one more coat of paint. Make sure when you do the coat on top of the shading that your brush strokes are all in the same direction, because it will make the shading drag to some extent. But I find that if you brush in the direction of airflow this doesn't necessarily look bad in the end. It just ends up looking like some streaking effect from some leaking oil or filth etc. 

 

How strong you want this effect to be is completely up to you, or whether or not you want to do them at all. I did it pretty strong at first, but found over time I've gone for a more subtle effect to the point where it is something your brain only really notices subconsciously to give the surface some variation (if that makes sense). I realize on actual aircraft there aren't really panel lines or shading, but I find on 1/72 and 1/48 models when there isn't some kind of panel lining, even if it is subtle, it can look rather amateurish. Not always though of course. Making scale models can be funny, because sometimes I find doing something unrealistic can make it look more realistic. I think this is because some techniques are less about recreating something on the physical aircraft and more about recreating the effects of light and shadows on something that is suppose to look of a much larger scale. This is something I didn't realize back when I was a kid doing car models and couldn't figure out why my models didn't look realistic even though all the colours were correct and my painting neat and tidy. 

 

 

Edited February 12, 2018 by CzarPeppers

[Matt_]

On 11/02/2018 at 9:38 AM, Gorby said:

It is much cheaper to mix your own washes and dead simple to do. It also allows you to mix up a batch for particular subjects – for desert areas, use sandy yellowy browns and for very dark colours I use a lighter dirty greyish wash. I wouldn't use just black, that can look very stark and false.

 

I agree. Wild pre-shading and liberal globs of Tamiya Black Panel Liner seems to be de rigueur at the moment. But I think a large part of this is how much it makes models stand out on YouTube.

 

For me, the ones that stand out in real life use much more subtle techniques. I much prefer to mix an oil wash that is just a touch darker than the basecoat colour. And, for example, I would use 2 different washes for the top and bottom surfaces of a plane. Then after washing a whole surface, smaller sections can be singled-out for an extra coat or two in order to highlight [lowlight] specific features.

[speedy]

There is a fashion at the mo to patchwork quilt the model, some do and some don't. Some quilted models do look good as pieces of art not a replica which is dependent on what the builder wants. As said above the real aircraft in different ways, when I worked on the Bell 212 we joked that if it wasn't leaking uts either empty or blocked, also the Squirrel aircraft, we sent the labourer to get black & yellow spray from Halfords to do touch ups on they were on scheduled checks,

[Uncle Pete]

On 2/11/2018 at 9:38 AM, Gorby said:

After I've sealed the decals with another gloss coat I use a fine brush to let the wash run unto the panel lines

I'm about to have my first crack at panel lines on a 1/72 Spit (in retrospect, I should have done it with a Hurri... Less panels!) and looking for a bit of help with technique.  How do you get the lines to stay when you apply the floor wax?  I've been gouging ("rescribing" would imply a level of skill I've not yet reached) them out between coats of paint but don't know if that's right.  Do I need to dig them down again after the wax goes on?  I did experiment a bit with a Blenheim that I built badly enough to use for trials but didn't have any luck.  Also, I noticed you use thinned enamel for panel lines over acrylic paint... Would that still work over enamel or would I use thinned acrylic, effectively the reverse of the procedure?

[Gorby]

20 minutes ago, Uncle Pete said:

I'm about to have my first crack at panel lines on a 1/72 Spit (in retrospect, I should have done it with a Hurri... Less panels!) and looking for a bit of help with technique.  How do you get the lines to stay when you apply the floor wax?  I've been gouging ("rescribing" would imply a level of skill I've not yet reached) them out between coats of paint but don't know if that's right.  Do I need to dig them down again after the wax goes on?  I did experiment a bit with a Blenheim that I built badly enough to use for trials but didn't have any luck.  Also, I noticed you use thinned enamel for panel lines over acrylic paint... Would that still work over enamel or would I use thinned acrylic, effectively the reverse of the procedure?

Hi Pete,

As usual, I'm a little confused (natural state these days). Once you re-scribe/gouge panel lines (before you paint) you don't need to repeat the operation at any point. And of course only older kits with raised panel lines need to be re-scribed.

For the wash I use (cheap) artist oil paint (not enamel), thinned enormously so that it runs like water. When it has been applied, either as a pin wash (just run into the panel lines) or as a panel wash (applied over everything) leave for a while – about ½ hour to an hour, then with a bit of paper kitchen towel or cotton bud dipped in a little thinner, wipe off in the direction of the airflow.

Just play around with it. If you use a wash that won't affect the paint (which is why I use oil over acrylic) you can do it over and over again if you aren't happy with the result.

If I've completely misunderstood your question, just let me know.

[Uncle Pete]

13 minutes ago, Gorby said:

If I've completely misunderstood your question, just let me know.

You've understood it perfectly, thanks.  I'll give it a whack and blame you if it all goes pear-shaped! 😉

[LotusArenco]

44 minutes ago, Uncle Pete said:

it all goes pear-shaped!

There are other shapes?

 

I use a couple of different ways to ruin a model panel line wash.

 

First, the ‘Dirty Boy- now go wash your hands’ method.

Which is to smear the entire kit with either a pre-made wash (Ultimate Washes etc.) or my own home made brew of various water colours. Leave to dry, then wipe off with a damp cloth.

Shown in glorious technicolour here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235015132-italeriesci-harrier-gr3-172/

 

Secondly, the same method as Gorby's pin wash. Capillary action takes most of the very thin paint to where you want it. You’ll still have to wipe off some areas. C’est la vie.

 

Word of advice. Don’t use pure black. It’ll look like cack.

 

Mart

[Uncle Pete]

3 minutes ago, LotusArenco said:

Word of advice. Don’t use pure black. It’ll look like cack

What do you reckon, then... Chuck in a bit of brown?

[Gorby]

20 minutes ago, Uncle Pete said:

What do you reckon, then... Chuck in a bit of brown?

Whatever. Brown (dirt), grey (dust), green (mould), yellow (custard) there aren't any hard and fast rules, but as I mentioned earlier in the thread (I think), it depends on where the aircraft etc. would have been flying.

[LotusArenco]

43 minutes ago, Uncle Pete said:

What do you reckon, then... Chuck in a bit of brown?

20 minutes ago, Gorby said:

Whatever. Brown (dirt), grey (dust), green (mould), yellow (custard) there aren't any hard and fast rules, but as I mentioned earlier in the thread (I think), it depends on where the aircraft etc. would have been flying.

Yup.

It’s just that black is just too stark a contrast. I find a darkish grey to be a happy compromise for most aircraft. I have used Tamiya panel line wash, but the results do need toning down a bit and other than on Sci-Fi thingies I try to avoid it.

 

Mart

[LotusArenco]

28 minutes ago, Gorby said:

yellow (custard)

 

Mart

[Uncle Pete]

1 hour ago, LotusArenco said:

water colours

oooh.... I Like that... Mistakes wash off like magic... Right up my alley.

[LotusArenco]

9 minutes ago, Uncle Pete said:

Right up my alley.

An alley in Shepherds Bush? I’ll bring a stab vest…

 

Do a google for ‘Sludge Wash’, should help you.

 

Mart

[Uncle Pete]

19 minutes ago, LotusArenco said:

An alley in Shepherds Bush? I’ll bring a stab vest

You think your neighbourhood is tough?  I got held up by a bloke with a bitten-off shotgun!

[Big Dave S]

Just got here - in fact the discussions about this type of thing were what prompted me to join.

As a relatively new aircraft modeller, this is kind of the last step to achieving what I'm after (along with getting a decent matt finish afterwards).

Here's the current way of making & painting wing-ed wonders in my spare bedroom:

1. Build it and fill/file the gaps.
2. Apply the basic colours (Humbrol enamel, largely airbrushed).
3. Apply 5 x thin acrylic coats of gloss varnish, to facilitate the wash.
4. Apply wash: Tamiya acrylic 'Smoke' in 3 x thin coats - catching drips to avoid pooling (a job in itself).
5. Put the decals on, squeezing bubbles out and adding solvent.
6. Apply 2 x Vallejo matt medium coats (thin once again).

And that's it. Except it never is.

The matt medium has a tendency to tone down what can be a decent washed finish (although they are a recent development). So this time around (Italeri F100), after matt coat #1, I'm trying some pin washes to attempt to ensure the recesses are still picked out. Then apply the final matt varnish and hope it works.

 

Consistency is the challenge. Too heavy on the washes (and they are washes) and it looks dirty (not modelling tanks here); too light and it looks like the weathering is still to do.

 

And much foul language ensues. 

 

Anyway, hopefully this will pay off; I'll put a piece on here to say how it goes. Any thoughts/ideas: please let me know. I baulk at the idea of putting colour on and wiping the model (just working in 1/72 and 1/144) so won't be doing that.

 

Cheers 

DS

[Big Dave S]

It worked! In fact it worked well.

So, the gist of it was: after applying the decals (step 5 - above), I added one coat of thinned down Vallejo matt medium (by brush), then re-painted the panel lines with thin Tamiya acrylic Smoke, using a very fine spotter brush and wiping any excess up with another (dry) brush. Let it dry overnight to be sure; then applied 2nd and final coat of matt medium.

All the recesses are still picked out and visible. Decals are matt. 

I have the finish I want - after probably 30 experiments trying to pull it off.

It takes time to do the pin wash (radio/cd helps here), but it's worth it and it's possible under artificial light (desk lamp). 

 

Very happy boy. I'll probably drop the bugger en-route to the cabinet now...