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Spitfire 1b - KP 1/72 and PixScan tests


CedB

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Clearly a success Ced

 

My dark green looks like that too but it worries me a bit, I don't see enough contrast between the two

 

But as I grew up thinking Humbrol 30 was right, I expect I need re-educating

 

 

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3 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

Hi Keith, the paint is just the same. When spraying paints the thinners used tends to dominate the 'aroma'.

 

The biggest change we made there was to make a bespoke thinner for it. WEM just recommended white spirits which have a fairly strong smell and our American friends went immediately to cellulose thinners (or "lacquer thinners" as they're called there) which really stink.

 

Morning Jamie, 

 

Actually, I've recently changed to using 'Bob Ross Odorless Thinners' rather than the cellulose I used to use, and thinking about it the tellings off have become less recently...!!

 

26 minutes ago, CedB said:

Thanks Keith - strange what 'hits your nose' isn't it? I can't stand nail varnish, instant headache. Must stop using it :D

 

:rofl2:

 

K

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Hmm

 

The odourless, (in this case, low odour) white spirit I use came from Vesey Galleries and if Mrs P misses the stinky stench "Yearrrgh what you doing to me you FEELTHY swine?" I don't think I need search any further although I have heard good stuff about the Bob thingy stuff too

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4 hours ago, johnd said:

You may need to shop around to find a good odourless white spirit.

 

I use the Bob Ross odorless* thinners, bought off e-bay for a reasonable price when I got fed up (again!) with the hassle of spraying acrylics. It works well with Xtracolor, WEM & Humbrol enamels. 

 

* spelt that way as the late, great Bob was American, but sellers on e-bay UK tend to list it as odourless.

 

Keith

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Thanks Giorgio, Simon (Beard) and Simon (Spookytooth) for the kind words :)

Thanks Bill :) I'm confident that the DG will match the official colour chips (Jamie's shown these before) but I shared your memories from Humbrol colours - I need re-educating too :)

Keith I grabbed a 2L bottle of Barrettine low odour from Tool Station for under £5 - I've just had another sniff and it's just sort of musty, if anything :)

Thanks John (Biggles) - wing roots and leading edges are my current area of focussed attention but I still haven't worked out a reliable masking method. We'll get there! :)

Thanks johnd - there are lots of odourless spirits around at varying prices - I'm going cheap! :)

Thanks Cookie - you're welcome to copies of anything I produce for the cutter - more to come! :)

Hi Jamie - just caught your post :) Spitfires much more fun than processing colours I guess, I take full blame!

 

 

I've cut out the Pmasks that I need and realised there's no mask for the yellow outlines underwing. Only one thing for it, into Silhouette Studio:

 

40341223771_cbac92f135_z.jpg

Roundels by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Can someone check my calculations for me please? The plan is to copy / paste the roundel type(s) I need onto the cutting area and resize it as required.

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7.06

8.82

12.35

12.7

14.11

19.75

(Using the Scalator part the Hobby Color Converter app)

 

Looks like you're good to go Ced.

 

If the thinner smell gets too bad, some Guerlain 'L'homme Ideal' dabbed behind yer lugs should give a debonair atmosphere to proceedings...;)

 

 

 

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A bit more progress this morning.

 

I merged a scanned image of the scheme into Silhouette Studio to get the size and location of the squadron idents.

For new Studio users here are the steps:

  1. Merge the image file (File menu, 'Merge')
  2. Measure the model nose to tail (this one 118.5mm)
  3. Draw a rectangle around the fuselage from the back of the spinner to the back of the rudder, shift select the image and click 'Object > Modify > Crop' to crop just the fuselage
  4. Select the cropped image and then click the size icon, click the padlock to lock the aspect and type in the length

39643548664_b8568dd898_z.jpg

 

I then selected 'Text' and typed 'QJ' and then 'D'. When I changed the font to RAF WWII the letters split into separate objects. Hmmm. To correct this I selected the objects and from the Object menu chose 'Release Compound Path' to separate the objects and then, with all the parts selected, 'Object > Modify > Weld'. Here's the before and after:

 

38544444730_d7328d8867_n.jpg 38544485280_6e466636bf_n.jpg

RAF Font has separate objects by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

I'd also copied and pasted the roundels I needed from the Roundels design and ended up with this:

 

40309033022_c82347c9c3_z.jpg

Markings design by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

I just need to size the roundels now, add the yellow ring on one of the underside roundels and then decide where to cut a box around the masks so I can peel them off the film AND avoid overspray. And get them lined up. Without having so much film they crease.

I shall ponder and then bite the bullet.

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Found 'Supermarine Spitfire Camo & Marks' archived on boxartden.com and this page says that the idents were 'painted grey, 48" high and of strokes 6" wide...".

Page 17 says that this was impractical on Spitfires and so "... squadrons were permitted to use their own judgement on size.." Great.

I think I'll just trace the image.

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2 hours ago, CedB said:

Oooh, are these letters too 'round'?

 

38545153830_20148dc2ce_z.jpg

Letters too 'round'? by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Research required...

Yes by far too round

The proper fonts are out there Ced look up raf wartime fighter code fonts and prepare to be battered by google

 

Or just round off some rectangles in inky or gimp, the inner corners are 'square' not a technically difficult bit of graphics

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Thanks Giorgio :)

Thanks Bill :) The problem I have is that I'm on a Mac and it's designed around fonts (and graphics). The guy that designed the fonts must be on Windows I guess 'cos ALL the font families are called 'New', the Fonts are all called 'Regular' and I can't find an easy way of editing them so that I can have more than one installed at the same time (although I have 12 different files). This is obviously the 'popular' one :doh:

 

To save any more pain (oh ha ha ha) I drew the codes a la Cookie. Took minutes. Quite a few of them.

Out with the Portrait.

The Ultra Mask roll is too wide to fit in the cutter so I have to use the cutting mat, roll out some film across the top of the mat, stick it down (not there, rats, pull it off. No, there) and cut off the excess. Send the cut. Did it work?

 

26485638708_abb1d55a0a_z.jpg

 

 

40356632371_d74e32d04c_z.jpg

 

 

The roundels are fine, even the tiny yellow ring around the small one, but the 'Q' is a mess. i couldn't get the three-object letter into a single cut pass so was expectin problems. I may have to use the transfers - we shall see. The low tack also means the roundels can come away if you're not careful:

 

40356670381_41302a4c12_z.jpg

 

They'll burnish down fine if the templates are anything to go by. Famous last words.

 

Tip: Cut some film off the roll first to the length you require - if you stick the whole width down it will de-laminate as you try to pull it off:

 

38546770110_2a08dd58dd_z.jpg

 

Pretty good supply of canopy masking film though eh? I can always cut bits off that and stick it to the cutting mat. Good tip, too late!

 

I'm beginning to wonder why I'm putting myself through all this pain. Next one will be easy. (Oh no, it's deja vu all over again)

 

Lunchtime.

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Repeat after me: Get some Oramask 810 film , Get some Oramask 810 film, Get some Oramask 810 film, Get some Oramask 810 film ....

 

You won't regret it.

 

:D 

 

Ciao

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5 hours ago, CedB said:

I'm beginning to wonder why I'm putting myself through all this pain

Because you're pushing the boundaries Ced and letting us see that knowledge is a struggle to acquire.

 

Great strides! :clap2:

Tony

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This is awesome Ced.

 

I downloaded a bunch of RAF fonts a while back and I think that "RAF_WW2_851ATH" seems a good match if you want to hunt for it. I don't know it you have troubles with it being on a Mac though.

RAF_WW2_851ATH

 

I'll see if I can get them in a Portrait Studio file and send it to you.

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@CedB, bear in mind that the squadron codes would have been painted on the airfield, preferably by an erk who was a signwriter or had some knowledge of the practice.  He would probably only chalk out the rough outline, or possibly just the top and bottom line.  I’ve seen a photo somewhere of JEJ with teeny-tiny serifs just visible - this is a classic sign of a properly trained signwriter, as it stops the corners of letters looking rounded off.

As a result the official lettering guide is probably a “pirate code” and each squadron would vary slightly, which you can see across all RAF planes, especially BoB period photos.

I don’t think there would have been much, if any of that masking out nonsense seen on BBMF or other modern restorations.  So a bit of individuality would be prototypical.

Cheers

Will

 

Spitfire looking nice by the way...

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Thanks Giorgio - 'Get some Oramask 810 film' - there you go! :D That'll be the third no forth type of masking film I'll have! I'll see how I get on but I'll remember the recommendation, thanks.

Thanks Tony - pushing the boundaries? Painful! :D

Thanks Cookie - Studio files gratefully received and codes re-cut:

 

40368717261_6256f4d9dc_z.jpg

 

Hard to see in that shot but the 'Q' has now printed perfectly. Great stuff, thanks again :)

 

Thanks Will - I shall store that up in the unlikely event (ha ha) that the masks don't work. 'A bit rough? Oh yes, they were hand painted in the field you know. Probably windy that day. Ahem' :D

Thanks Johnny - I'm planning a good night's sleep tonight and then masks on in the morning! :)

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