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CedB

Spitfire 1b - KP 1/72 and PixScan tests

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Just a quick post to start my next build, the KP Spitfire 1a:

 

39471863994_b4e12d1a7a_z.jpg

 

In an end-opening box so that's been chopped up and thrown away, keeping the scheme:

 

40150562482_c850bd7f44_z.jpg

 

Sprue shots:

 

39471864244_da34bd3ffd_z.jpg

 

 

39284990665_d5b2342ffa_z.jpg

 

I know others have built this so I'll do some research, but the main reason for this build is to try the Silhouette Portrait cutter for camo templates and code masks. Oh, and airbrushing Colourcoats!

Should be fun?

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Yeah, a seat right at the front at last. Watch where you're pointing that airbrush please.

 

Get on with it then!

 

John

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I was wondering what was next !! A spitfire with 3 propellors.

 

This will be fun, I don't think I've ever been so close to the front before.

 

I was kind of hoping it might be an airfix sea fury, but the spit'll be fine for practice on the airbrush, I'm sure :D

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Good choice Ced, it's a lovely kit, but it's a 1B not a 1a.

Also, pay close attention to where the under-wing cannon bulges go (you need to drill different holes for the 1B/IIB and VB). While we're on the subject of cannon bulges, I think there's been some discussion as to their shape on the IB).

Edit: here's a discussion

 

Edited by Beard

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I'm in can't have to many Spitfires!

Which scheme are you doing?

 

  Roger

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Cor, got here when it's quiet, where's the comfiest seat.....

 

Keith

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Move over you guys, I need a seat too :D

 

:popcorn: Really looking forward to the camo masks cutting 

 

Ciao

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Welcome John (Biggles), John (Whofan), Roger, Keith and Giorgio - great to have you along :)

Thanks Simon - title amended! Thanks. I'll watch out for the bulge position (fnaar!) but, as this is a test piece, I won't worry too much about the shape. Good tip though, thanks again :)

 

I've chosen this kit as I want to try the vinyl cutter for camo templates and squadron codes. I'm also going to airbrush the whole thing with Colourcoats, including the roundels. Gulp.

I'll be taking care on the kit (of course) but, if you're hoping for a perfect model, it won't be this one!

 

When we were talking about the cutter recently Cookie ( @Cookenbacher ) mentioned the ability to scan things and then cut around the outlines and he was hoping this would be good to cut around decals on the sheet. This is Silhouette's PixScanTM technology and it's explained on their website, with a video and everything! The general idea is that you buy one of their special mats (that also doubles as a cutting mat), stick the subject to that, take a photo and import the image into Studio. You can then trace the image and define the cut lines. Simple eh?

 

You know what's coming don't you? I'm just gathering my photos and I'll post episode 1 (the pilot) later. It's going to be, er... interesting (I hope!)

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g

  u

    l

      p

         !

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Well.

This should be much nicer than Felicity Kendall's bottom.

 

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Hey Cookie, glad you're here and I hope you pick up some tips (and avoid some problems!) :)

Hi Bill - great to have you along and hope that fall didn't do too much damage :D

Welcome oh Baronial one! Nicer than Felicity's bottom? I don't think so! That video's great though :rofl2: Could be me at the end opening the curtains!

 

So, PixScan. I want to use the 'Procopius recommended templates' that I've been cutting out of paper in the past. If I cut these from masking film they'll stick!

The template had already been printed, scaled for 1/72, so I trimmed it and stuck it to the PixScan mat:

 

39911009291_b8b6b37486.jpg 26038088598_3bffe4ace2_n.jpg

Template printed and trimmed by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Then you take a picture of the whole mat with your 'phone and import the image into Studio.

Then you realise you have to 'calibrate your camera' so you print out a special piece of paper and take a photo of it and import that into Studio (just once).

Then you point Studio's PixScan at your image again and process the image.

Then you realise you have to trace the objects one by one as you have other things on the scan you don't want to cut.

Tracing is still, to me, a dark art and I can't get the software to outline the image:

 

39012710135_aa4003f186_z.jpg

Photo not 'Optimal' by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

OK, it's a complex image and perhaps I'm expecting too much (as usual) from the software.

Put the mat away and tear the cover - it's very thin plastic:

 

28131020549_ea0d5d244a_z.jpg

Rip the packet by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

How about just scanning the image and importing that to Studio?

 

39474144244_c2733d35a9_z.jpg

 

Ah, no then. The small red rectangle is the cutting mat so I've fallen foul of the DPI problem again - the image doesn't import at exactly the right size.

 

What about a smaller PixScan mat so the image is clearer?

The one I have measures 15 x 9 inches (380 x 225mm) which is too big for my normal needs.

On to Amazon and I find one that's smaller.

Order it and it says 'You ordered this before' - what?

 

39287214855_8010f17a97_z.jpg

Measure twice... by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Ah, so the size they quote on the web is the cutting area, not the mat size. Great.

 

I shall now try calming down adjusting the scan DPI and/or outlining the template bits I want with a Sharpie and trying the PixScan again.

Later!

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:pilot:

 

Woohoo! A Spitcedfire with bulgy bits and sticky out bits and hi-tech and, and, and...

 

Are there any seats left? 

 

 

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27 minutes ago, CedB said:

I shall now try calming down adjusting the scan DPI and/or outlining the template bits I want with a Sharpie and trying the PixScan again

 

I think I'll just stick to my 2B pencil & freehand camo.!

 

Good luck with it Ced, I'm sure your tenacity will let you win through in the end!

 

Keith

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23 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

 

I think I'll just stick to my 2B pencil & freehand camo.!

 

Good luck with it Ced, I'm sure your tenacity will let you win through in the end!

 

Keith

Sorry to go OT, but if you use a pencil for the camp outline, how do you get rid of the pencil marks afterwards?

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21 minutes ago, 06/24 said:

Sorry to go OT, but if you use a pencil for the camp outline, how do you get rid of the pencil marks afterwards?

 

I just spray over them, & if I miss any bits a damp cotton bud will usually take them off. I do only use the pencil very lightly and a 2B, being soft, won't permanently mark the surface.

 

HTH :)

 

Keith

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Cheers, I'll give that a try some time. Sorry Ced, back to the SpitCedFire.

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Thanks Jon and welcome to the madness! :)

Thanks Keith - I know this sounds like a lot of trouble but I do build lots of Spitfires AND, if it all works out, I'll be able to send the template file to other Portrait cutter owners, like Cookie :)

 

I thought about this, watched some YouTube videos of ladies cutting out cute patterns and then decided the image was asking a lot so I traced it with a black pen, before and after:

 

26316963928_e49e152d93.jpg 39478260274_33abab1674.jpg

 

I can, perhaps, see where the software might have a problem with the faint image, but then this happened with the 'darkened' one:

 

40157123902_09666b684e.jpg

Too dark or what? by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Into the photo booth and I finally got an image to load AND to trace, a series of 'select trace area' and 'trace outline'. Most users will want to trace an image without extra writing on it so I can make allowances for the extra work I'm having to do. You can see the results here:

 

40157326542_364f150d02.jpg

Traced by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Problems to resolve tomorrow:

  1. Double cut lines; perhaps I should be 'tracing solid'?
  2. Removal of the traced writing next to the shapes
  3. Removal of additional pieces where I couldn't select a rectangle just around the shape I wanted.

Getting there.

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Fascinating. Way over my head, but fascinating :) 

 

I'll just sit quietly at the back; good luck mate,

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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AFAIK the B wing as the same on the Mk.I, II and V.  There was an earlier version flown in the Battle of Britain but withdrawn because of cannon feed jamming.   This wing is the alternative option in the AZ kit.  I believe that these aircraft were known as Mk.I(cannon) as they predated the use of a suffix to denote lesser variations within a Mark.  The failed design was rapidly replaced by what was then known as the B wing, which was standardised.  Surviving aircraft of this early batch were re-engined to become Mk.VB.

 

AFAIK there were no Mk.II(cannon) - all cannon-armed Mk.II were Mk.IIB.

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Ooh; whizzy over-engineered tool tests.  Def got my attention!

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1 hour ago, Graham Boak said:

AFAIK the B wing as the same on the Mk.I, II and V.  There was an earlier version flown in the Battle of Britain but withdrawn because of cannon feed jamming.   This wing is the alternative option in the AZ kit.  I believe that these aircraft were known as Mk.I(cannon) as they predated the use of a suffix to denote lesser variations within a Mark.  The failed design was rapidly replaced by what was then known as the B wing, which was standardised.  Surviving aircraft of this early batch were re-engined to become Mk.VB.

 

AFAIK there were no Mk.II(cannon) - all cannon-armed Mk.II were Mk.IIB.

Also, if my memory serves me well, the MkI (cannon) didn't have machine guns and the IB did.

So the smaller cannon bulges are for the MkI (cannon).

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Woohoo a Spitthingy!

 

I did templates on my recent build but used a photocopy cut out from the Aeroguide on the Mk.V and filled in the missing bits with Tamiya Tape. The result is definitely worth the effort.

 

Trevor

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2 hours ago, CedB said:
  1. Double cut lines; perhaps I should be 'tracing solid'

 With the trace you made, select entire graphic; right click and "release compound path"; click on an inner line to select, and delete it; repeat for other inner lines; then when all inner lines are eliminated, right click and "Group".

 

In my opinion, the Pixscan process, as well as the Studio trace program are not precise enough for 1/72 ... good enough for the camo pattern, but not for small lettering or national insignia. 

 

As an alternate (there are many), you could import the image you want to cut into Studio and use the drawing  tools to manually trace the image.  That creates a vector that cuts perfectly.  Roundels are easy,  as is lettering, especially  if you have the Windows font installed. :D

 

Unfortunately, there's a learning curve to conquer for each Silhouette process, but if you plan to do multiples as with your Spits, all is well, well worth it. 

 

Finally (!), if you haven't tried it, get some Oramask 810 stencil material. Many sources available, including buying small quantities via ebay.

 

Gene K

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12 minutes ago, Gene K said:

Finally (!), if you haven't tried it, get some Oramask 810 stencil material.

I strongly recommend that too :)

 

Ciao

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