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So after the me262 I've opened this (bought on here - can't remember who from but a bargain :) ): 

DSC_5568

 

came with airwaves set and cannon barrel set:

 

DSC_5569

 

So internal detail removed:

 

SAM_0022

 

but left the mounting points for the seat as it seems the whole detail set hangs off it:

 

SAM_0023

 

SAM_0024

 

Anyways, this isn't about showing off my modelling skills ( hahahhaaaa) but rather for advice.  I've read that the pe parts should be either soldered (not for me - i'd burn my fingers before I'd plugged a soldering iron in) or attached using superglue (ca?).  At this point my question is how do I "hold" the pe part before attaching?  Read various posts about using wax pencils, uummm ear wax and various other things.  Any advice?

 

TIA!

 

Ian

 

 

 

 

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Looks interesting my furry friend - as I'm first I'll take a seat right next to you - nudging your elbow at all the critical moments and dropping popcorn crumbs all over the bench :popcorn:

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I love this kit. Unlike the 262, I don't remember this one giving me any troubles. 

 

 

Edited by Thud4444

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I love the box 'legend'...

 

Skill - 2

More Challenging

Requires Glue

41 Pieces

 

41 Pieces for a 1/48 kit - that's my kind of build - I could probably get it done in a month :lol:

 

On a more serious note - the decals...  which squadron is it / when was it in use / where was it flown / who flew it

 

Does anyone have any 'real pictures' of this particular aircraft.

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Poster tack and either a toothpick wood-skewers seems to be a popular way of holding P/E to glue and place in location. I use a C/A gel glue for most of things like P/E. But have thin and medium C/A for gap filling and attaching certain resin A/M.  

 

BTW im taking a seat for this:popcorn: as Id love to build another of these kits.

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle

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11 minutes ago, BIG X said:

I love the box 'legend'...

 

Skill - 2

More Challenging

Requires Glue

41 Pieces

 

41 Pieces for a 1/48 kit - that's my kind of build - I could probably get it done in a month :lol:

 

On a more serious note - the decals...  which squadron is it / when was it in use / where was it flown / who flew it

 

Does anyone have any 'real pictures' of this particular aircraft.

SW-409, MN-R of No. 245 Squadron, based out of airstrip B.164, Schleswig, Germany, 1945. There is a color profile and b&w photo of this Mk 1b in 2nd tactical Air Force, volume 4, by Shores and Thomas. This squadron was listed as being dedicated bomb carriers but was selected as being a specialist RP squadron, so if you're doing one in the scheme with the blue-white checkerboard fuselage band, it would have the RP rails and  rounds. It appears the codes were in sky, 24" high, and the serial was also in sky, 8" high, with a blue-white checkerboard band above and below the serial. That's all I have been able to find.

Mike

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8 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Poster tack and either a toothpick wood-skewers seems to be a popular way of holding P/E to glue and place in location. I use a C/A gel glue for most of things like P/E. But have thin and medium C/A for gap filling and attaching certain resin A/M.  

 

BTW im taking a seat for this:popcorn: as Id love to build another of these kits.

I concur with Dennis - cocktail stick - little blob of blutack firmly scrunched on to the end and then practice picking small things up from the bench by simply touching the blob onto the item and lifting.  Don't press too hard as this means the blutak won't pull away easily afterwards.  Also - don't get any ca on the blutak - or you will glue the part to the blutak and not the model :doh:

 

Depending on the part I would drop a blob of ca onto some silicone paper - what's that I hear you ask - basically any paper you peel off the back of stickers - like parking tickets - you know - the bit you throw away - the greasy paper stuff.

 

A drop of ca stays ready for use for about 5 minutes on this stuff and you can dab a cocktail stick - a wooden one - into this and use it to place a drop on your model.  Leave that for about 30 seconds - then offer up the part to be stuck.  Works for me with my sausage fingers. :D

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4 hours ago, neil5208 said:

Pretty sure mk1b didn't have lights in the wings only on earlier car door version 

The RP typhoons certainly had their landing lights plated over I believe....not sure about the bomb carrier ones though.

 

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10 hours ago, BIG X said:

I love the box 'legend'...

 

Skill - 2

More Challenging

Requires Glue

41 Pieces

 

41 Pieces for a 1/48 kit - that's my kind of build - I could probably get it done in a month :lol:

 

On a more serious note - the decals...  which squadron is it / when was it in use / where was it flown / who flew it

 

Does anyone have any 'real pictures' of this particular aircraft.

and 8 of those parts are the rockets / rails......

 

the 1/24 airfix typhoon gives an option for another 245 squadron aircraft.

There's a little bit of blurb (mainly on the specific aircraft MR-U) but assuming MR-N was already with the squadron when MR-U arrived (August 1944) then it would have been involved in the Falaise gap operations.  I can't seem to find anything specific relating to MR-N or it's fate....jeez look at me - actually READING UP on things!  You're a bad influence @BIG X !

 

There's also an Aviaeology set for MR-U but it does show some photos (albeit not of MR-N):

 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Sharkmouth-Typhoon-1-32-scale-Aviaeology-Decals-n-Docs-/361037012407?hash=item540f7b9db7

 

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Poster tack and either a toothpick wood-skewers seems to be a popular way of holding P/E to glue and place in location. I use a C/A gel glue for most of things like P/E. But have thin and medium C/A for gap filling and attaching certain resin A/M.  

 

BTW im taking a seat for this:popcorn: as Id love to build another of these kits.

 

2 hours ago, BIG X said:

I concur with Dennis - cocktail stick - little blob of blutack firmly scrunched on to the end and then practice picking small things up from the bench by simply touching the blob onto the item and lifting.  Don't press too hard as this means the blutak won't pull away easily afterwards.  Also - don't get any ca on the blutak - or you will glue the part to the blutak and not the model :doh:

 

Depending on the part I would drop a blob of ca onto some silicone paper - what's that I hear you ask - basically any paper you peel off the back of stickers - like parking tickets - you know - the bit you throw away - the greasy paper stuff.

 

A drop of ca stays ready for use for about 5 minutes on this stuff and you can dab a cocktail stick - a wooden one - into this and use it to place a drop on your model.  Leave that for about 30 seconds - then offer up the part to be stuck.  Works for me with my sausage fingers. :D

Thank you gents!

 

I have a feeling this is all going to hinge on the correct fitting of the pilot seat to the airwaves cockpit.  I think I might need to "make up" the framework then dry fit the seat to the mounting points and take it from there.....

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13 minutes ago, Lawzer said:

and 8 of those parts are the rockets / rails......

 

the 1/24 airfix typhoon gives an option for another 245 squadron aircraft.

There's a little bit of blurb (mainly on the specific aircraft MR-U) but assuming MR-N was already with the squadron when MR-U arrived (August 1944) then it would have been involved in the Falaise gap operations.  I can't seem to find anything specific relating to MR-N or it's fate....jeez look at me - actually READING UP on things!  You're a bad influence @BIG X !

 

There's also an Aviaeology set for MR-U but it does show some photos (albeit not of MR-N):

 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Sharkmouth-Typhoon-1-32-scale-Aviaeology-Decals-n-Docs-/361037012407?hash=item540f7b9db7

 

 

 

 

 

Careful with the Aviaeology decals - don't get me wrong - they are lovely - but they are also VERY FLIMSY - I did a 1/24 Hurricane and the code letters have NO carrier film around them - so as you slide them off they just wrinkle into 'grey snakes' - MOST NERVE WRACKING...

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1 hour ago, BIG X said:

Careful with the Aviaeology decals - don't get me wrong - they are lovely - but they are also VERY FLIMSY - I did a 1/24 Hurricane and the code letters have NO carrier film around them - so as you slide them off they just wrinkle into 'grey snakes' - MOST NERVE WRACKING...

I bought some for a beaufighter build - not looked at them yet though.....

 

from what I read it seems that MR-U was the only known typhoon to have a shark mouth.  Now if there was ever an aircraft (other than an a10) that was destined for a sharks mouth ;)

 

It did have the 4 bladed prop (which the kit has) and the Tempest tail plane (which I don't know if the kit depicts that or not)......

 

Something I just noticed - although it has raised panel lines (hopefully easily enough to remove and rescribe) it also has some (to my eye) nice rivet detail too (or do they look too big? - i know if these were scaled up they would be HUGE but might add some nice texture):

 

SAM_0026

 

 

 

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OK so it *might* be a bit off center and only one of the TINY parts flew off into oblivion but I've made a start!

 

DSC_5571

 

instructions said to "build up with superglue (fingers stuck - yes indeed. several times) or plastic rod.  not sure if any of it will actually be seen but it's added rigidity to the thing.

 

So, can I use normal primer (halfords rattle can) on this?

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Lawzer said:

 

So, can I use normal primer (halfords rattle can) on this?

Yes I've rattle canned interiors before, just use light dusting coats. Just don't go heavy as it will fill in some of the nooks and crannies. 

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1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Yes I've rattle canned interiors before, just use light dusting coats. Just don't go heavy as it will fill in some of the nooks and crannies. 

yep - agree with that - tricky though - 'light dusting' with a rattle can - the holy grail...

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18 hours ago, neil5208 said:

Pretty sure mk1b didn't have lights in the wings only on earlier car door version 

IIRC, the dedicated rocket carrying Tiffies had the landing light sheeted or painted over.

Mike

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7 hours ago, 72modeler said:

IIRC, the dedicated rocket carrying Tiffies had the landing light sheeted or painted over.

Mike

Indeed sir.  Bonus of that 1 less thing to mask when painting 😄

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Well i can safely say that's the hardest thing i've done modelling wise.

 

not sure if it's really fit for human consumption but....

 

DSC_5572

 

DSC_5573

 

not exactly good but after a LOT of swearing and seperating my finger(s) from various parts / cocktail sticks / and even one paint pot it's done.

 

next problem is how to line this up in the fuselage as i had to remove the mounting points for the seat.  I Dry fitted it and it kind of fits naturally but think i might leave that till tomorrow.

 

hats off to everyone who does this on a regular basis - especially those who do it in a smaller scales.  I lost like 6 parts that justbpinged off / settled in the little puddle of super glue i'd laid down to dip them in.  My hat is off to you sirs and ladies 👏

 

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A valiant struggle has produced a nice cockpit.

(I glued my fingers to various (modelling related) items earlier today)*

Those rivets don't look too bad to me. Maybe a light wipe with a sanding stick?

 

*Not on purpose!

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it fits....nearly....

 

DSC_5574

 

DSC_5575

 

on dry fitting the wings there's a BIT (use that word liberally) of a gap between rear of the wing and fuselage.  The wings seem to have the idea that they are meant to sink in to said gap - maybe try some plasticard into the fuselage before attaching proper....

 

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39 minutes ago, Lawzer said:

it fits....nearly....

on dry fitting the wings there's a BIT (use that word liberally) of a gap between rear of the wing and fuselage.  The wings seem to have the idea that they are meant to sink in to said gap - maybe try some plasticard into the fuselage before attaching proper....

 

Can you show us a photo of the gap...

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23 minutes ago, BIG X said:

Can you show us a photo of the gap...

DSC_5576

 

it's a bit of almost a stretching exercise....this shows the gap but when the wing tops are aligned it kind of sinks in....

 

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Try placing a couple pieces of card to fill in the gap. Before that to prevent shifting i would take either card or sprue and create a bridge so the wings cant sink into the gap.  

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Ah yes - I had the same thing on my 1/24 Spitfire a while back...  Place some 'thin' plastic card 'inside' the back of the fuselage back - I used CA to make sure it was 'rock hard'.  The idea is to just have a lip of say 3mm to 5mm showing.  Then when you glue the wing in place it has something to stick to in this area - ie the back of the wing rests on the lip.  You will be left with a small 'channel'  between the wing back and the fuselage - which you can fill later.   Does that make sense....

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