Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Recommended Posts

I was scared of white.  How to get coverage?  How to get it even? How to avoid runs?

 

On my Valiant I have used Tamiya Nato black as a very thin guide coat to ensure that all is level.  But any satin black will do.

 

Then having sanded most of that off I used Citadel Corax White aerosol.  Applied in 2 thin coats, sprayed out side at about 10" away.  Which given the fact I was holding bits of the aircraft meant 4 sessions.

 

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Corax-White-Spray-Global?_requestid=3402394

 

Then 2 thin coats, sprayed Halfords White primer, again 10" away outside in 4 sessions to ensure a good even coat including the bits I was holding.

 

I intend to repeat the process with Halfords appliance white.  I used an old kit as a victim to test the Corax-Halfords-Halfords process and it gives an amazing 'off gloss' finish.  Not proper satin but not shiny either, quite realistic.  Great coverage and still surface detail visible.

 

tn_ecd39b24-43c2-4c06-a309-ee205db6af7b.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 09/02/2018 at 10:14 AM, goggsy said:

  I can smell an Airfix new tooling in the not too distant future...

I hope your keen nose is correct!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, At Sea said:

I was scared of white.  How to get coverage?  How to get it even? How to avoid runs?

 

On my Valiant I have used Tamiya Nato black as a very thin guide coat to ensure that all is level.  But any satin black will do.

 

Then having sanded most of that off I used Citadel Corax White aerosol.  Applied in 2 thin coats, sprayed out side at about 10" away.  Which given the fact I was holding bits of the aircraft meant 4 sessions.

 

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Corax-White-Spray-Global?_requestid=3402394

 

Then 2 thin coats, sprayed Halfords White primer, again 10" away outside in 4 sessions to ensure a good even coat including the bits I was holding.

 

I intend to repeat the process with Halfords appliance white.  I used an old kit as a victim to test the Corax-Halfords-Halfords process and it gives an amazing 'off gloss' finish.  Not proper satin but not shiny either, quite realistic.  Great coverage and still surface detail visible.

 

tn_ecd39b24-43c2-4c06-a309-ee205db6af7b.

Thanks, sounds good, and judging by that Valiant it certainly works! Just one question, if you're sanding off the black primer, would that destroy the raised panel lines on the Airfix Vulcan? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So despite a huge amount of sanding on the join along both wings and roots, there is still a huge gap. Filler already applied underneath, I'll have to do the same along the top once the glue has set and I can remove the masking tape.

 

2zjkf87.jpg

 

1hcsgi.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Lord Riot said:

Just one question, if you're sanding off the black primer, would that destroy the raised panel lines on the Airfix Vulcan? 

Should have said..

 

I only sand off any joints.  The black helps me to see that it's all level.  A friend who paints in the Motor trade calls it a guide coat.  Shows the high and low points.

 

I agree on raised panel line aircraft it's probably not advisable. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Main structure now fitted together, and the notorious wing join filled. I'll leave the filler to dry a while then hopefully not too much sanding as I spread it flat and use masking tape to keep it off the body. 

 

e9dpo6.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent love a good vulcan build I'll be watching this popcorn at the ready :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, At Sea said:

I hope your keen nose is correct!

Seems logical. Over the last few years they’ve released both of the other v bombers tooled to modern standard, I can’t see how they can justify keeping on the stablemate in a horribly fitting, inaccurate 80s moulding. Mind you, I can’t for the life of me understand why there isn’t a decent kit of an aircraft as important as the c130 so maybe I’m just talking out of my backside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wing joins filled, dried and sanded smooth.

 

2gv3n1z.jpg

 

So much filling needed all over this kit ...

 

29fpeex.jpg

 

As it'll be a 201-engined Vulcan, I removed the de-icing unit blisters that were only fitted to 301 powered machines.

 

2utnmt1.jpg

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks terrific, filler and all!

 

On the subject of old vs new tooling, I've seen many more Vulcans built here than Valiants or Victors, so I guess the kit still sells well. From Airfix's commercial point of view it may be a case of "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

 

Regards,

Adrian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its nice to see the hard work going in on this build.  We hear so much about the troubles and woes with building the Airfix Vulcan (especially the wings)but rarely get a chance to see just what those woes are.  Here we have the evidence of one of the ways to rectify that fit.  Thanks for those photos and the remedy that you applied.  Keep up the good work.  At the rate your going building all these kits in so short a time, I do believe Airfix are going to run out of kits for you to build - have you set your mind on the next build?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, rayprit said:

Its nice to see the hard work going in on this build.  We hear so much about the troubles and woes with building the Airfix Vulcan (especially the wings)but rarely get a chance to see just what those woes are.  Here we have the evidence of one of the ways to rectify that fit.  Thanks for those photos and the remedy that you applied.  Keep up the good work.  At the rate your going building all these kits in so short a time, I do believe Airfix are going to run out of kits for you to build - have you set your mind on the next build?

Thanks Ray, it is a fun build despite the kit's faults because I like Vulcans so much - glad to be able to share and if it helps anyone else that's brilliant. I'm no expert but just pick up tips from this forum mostly! 

 

I'm running out of space now so no more big kits until we move house I think, maybe an Xtrakit Meteor F.8 or the Airfix Sabre F.4 next!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today's progress so far. All fuselage and wing filling done, just added the radome and fin tip black. I'll cover this over when I do the white spray, and these areas will give me something to hold while I spray it. Not decided how best to approach that yet as I can't let any part of it touch the ground while it's wet. I may have to remove the rear radome tip and shove a stick up the fuselage to turn it around on! Anyone any other ideas?

 

a41j0p.jpg

Edited by Lord Riot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like the early 60s Vulcans had a slightly different aerial than later ones, so I modified it to reflects this.

 

35hmzd1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My favourite painting support for jets is an old pen or piece of dowel inserted into a jet pipe but I see you havn't attached them yet. Perhaps you can manufacture some sort of frame from an old wire coat hanger.

 

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks John, that's a great shout to have a coat hanger in the jet pipe holes! I'll be adding the resin 201 pipes later so I'll wait until I've sprayed her. 

 

I think given the expanse of white it'll need two thinner coats to avoid getting the runs!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More cutting and sanding. This time removal of the Skybolt blisters under the wings. Earlier Vulcans were never fitted with these bar the odd exception, so they had to go. I've tried to rescribe as best as I can after the sanding too. I hope all these sanding marks don't show through after spraying.

 

2ls8z6t.jpg

Edited by Lord Riot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Early B.2s didn't have the rear X-band jammer fitted until around 1965-67, so I've removed this as well.

 

w1a7pl.jpg

 

2dgubcx.jpg

 

30wqql0.jpg

 

 

Edited by Lord Riot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you bought any Games Workshop Corax White yet?

 

It's the future I tell ya!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 15/02/2018 at 23:46, At Sea said:

Have you bought any Games Workshop Corax White yet?

 

It's the future I tell ya!

No, just a can of satin white spray from an auto spares shop! It looked good on the Nimrod so I'm assuming it'll be good enough?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Lord Riot said:

No, just a can of satin white spray from an auto spares shop! It looked good on the Nimrod so I'm assuming it'll be good enough?

I'm sure it'll be fine.

 

I am just a fan of aerosols, to the point where I am doing almost all my painting this way now, even small things like propellor tips.  It does however make me quite picky and when I find a good product I get very excited...  If Humbrol stop making Metal Cote Steel and Aluminium I think I'll go into mourning! 

 

My airbrush is getting left out.  :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ready for the first coat of spraying. 

 

2va18i1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally, the white is on! Looks too glossy while it's still wet but it turns satin once dry.

 

r8gsnk.jpg

 

345cz0y.jpg

 

I think the underside trailing edges will need another light coat once this one has dried, but hopefully it's reasonably even across the surface.

Edited by Lord Riot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone know the best way to sort this out? ...

 

2r3l37b.jpg

 

I'm thinking either let it dry then sand it and respray, or use white spirit to wash it off then respray. Any better suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×