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Sea Fury 805 Sqn RAN HMAS Sydney Korea 1951 - completed


trickyrich

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Rich I'm  building my first resin kit, a little question if you don't mind, which filler do you use on resin, I've a little  bit of fairing in to do, and also some gaps, cheers

Glynn 

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4 hours ago, Hewy said:

Rich I'm  building my first resin kit, a little question if you don't mind, which filler do you use on resin, I've a little  bit of fairing in to do, and also some gaps, cheers

Glynn 

No problems at all. I generally use Tamiya's fine white filler for just about everything, have been for years. Their grey version is ok but it's just a bit courser. But you need to be a bit careful with the stuff as it does shrink after a while, even more so if you use it in large amounts. So give it a few days to settle down before painting. For some reason it does it more on resin then plastic...quite odd. I've got a small amount I noticed on the out wings of this beast where the wing and wing fold detail meet....too late to fix it now!

 

One thing to note, really make sure you've give the model a good wash in warm water (not hot else it may warp!) and laundry/hand soap or bleach to remove the resin releasing agent. I'd even go to the stage of cleaning the model or area you're going to fill with enamel thinners (isopropyl works just as well). This will clean up the area and give the filler a nice clean surface to bond to. I also use thinners to wipe over the whole model before I paint as well, for the same reason.

 

The other option is gap filling CA cement, you can get it in varying consistency's and used with accelerator, is a very quick and simple way to fix gaps. Again do it in small amounts and start filing sanding back once the accelerator has done it's job (well give it a minute or so). If you leave it too long it can become very hard which makes sanding not as easy as it's harder than the surrounding resin! Actually normal CA cement works just fine too.

 

Now all those little bits (or big bits) of resin block/s you cut off, well don't throw them away! Cut them to size an use them to help fill all the gaps, makes it much easier and you use less filler. Plus if you glue them so they're slightly proud of the join/gap, then when you sand them back you have the same material as the surround. This makes re-doing the panel lines even easier. I do exactly the same on plastic models, almost to the stage where I don't need to use any filler, just by using stretched sprue and strips. You can use plastic as well with resin, works just as nicely.

 

For fairing work I just block up the area with leftover resin (can use plastic) and just sand/ shape it down. Again so I can keep the same material as the rest of the model and reduce the risk of resin shrinkage. Some of the resin used these days carves and shapes better than plastic and I think is much easier to use. 

 

If you have any other question please feel free to ask, only too happy to help. What are you building?

 

 

 

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Ok this will be the last update!!!

 

With luck tomorrow she’ll be finished. I’ve spent the last couple of day just finishing up all the small stuff. All the decals are on and the final clear coat is done. I’ve finished all the weathering I plan to done.

 

I have a “deck” section for her to go on but I wanted to add something extra…..so I’ve made up some wheel chocks from scrap resin block (never throw this stuff away, it’s so useful!), I still have to finish painting them and add some rope.

 

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I finally painted the sliding section of the cockpit, black on the inside and EDSG outside. I had to make the masks from scratch that was a pain. I’m still a little bit worried about the fit, because it just doesn’t fit correctly, it’s too wide. I’ll try white glue it in place first, but if that doesn’t work then I’ll have to pin it!!!

 

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The undercarriage doors and wheel are now all on, I had to refit the wheels as they didn’t at first.

 

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The new cannon barrels are fitted along with the radiator grill.

 

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Today I started working on detailing the wing hinge and getting ready to fit the wings. I’ve started to make up some “wing locks”, these will help give much needed strength to the wings folded. Plus I’ve made a start on the gun site.

 

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There’s some basic detail to this section, I need to do a little bit more here.

 

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It’ll sort of look like this, there’s a metal strut at the front which is the actuator for folding the wings, this I made from brass rod. It’ll also help the wings to stay on!

 

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The wing jig has been put to good use, but I’ve found that I really need the model to be on it’s side while I work of each wing. To do this I’ve had to make up a proper jig to hold her on her side. It’s drying at the moment but tomorrow I’ll start using it to finally fit the wings!

 

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So that’s it, the last update!!    She looks fantastic and I’m very happy with how she’s turn out. The next update will be the final completed photos of her.

 

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38 minutes ago, Basilisk said:

Coming together nicely Rich and nice attention to details :thumbsup: I like your jig for the wing assembly. Still, I think it will be a challenge to keep the wings in place at hey are surely heavy.

 

Cheers, Peter

thanks, I have a trick to help keep these wings on. The The models resin hinges really aren't up to the task at all. If I was to do it again I'd remove all the resin hinges and replace them with brass sheet. Super easy to work with in this scale, strong and they would actually work. Unfortunately I didn't think of it when I started the build. It would just be a simple matter of cutting long slots into the wings for the for the ends of the hinges to go into. I'm now slightly annoyed I didn't think of it earlier! :doh:

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Well a day later than planned (got my recovered HDD back, everything was saved….except all my Britmodeller build stuff and projects!!!), but finished.

 

So all that was left to do was all the final small stuff and fit the wings! As mentioned earlier I had to make up a jig for her, as there was no way I could fit the wings without one. So some bits of old balsa glued together and there she is….should have made this way earlier!! It works a treat and I’m bound to use it on other projects.

 

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The wing hinges are what really scared me as they’re resin and have no real strength (to late to go with the brass hinge idea now!), so I had to come up with a way to help support them. I made and fitted the wing fold actuator, but to make it stronger again I made up the wing folded lock. This mounts to the lower wing forward lock and locking pin, just as in the real thing.

 

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I’ll pin it to the outer wing and CA glue it to the main, this will give me double the current strength…with luck. Plus I’ll glue the tie-down mounts to it as well, just as they are I real life.

 

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With that done I mounted the wings and they actually went on rally easily and lined up! Then it was just a case of finishing off the final bits of fitting rockets, pitot probes, arrestor hook, whip antenna………and she’s done!!!

 

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I’m super happy with how she came out, she looks amazing. It was a really lovely model to build and for the main part a reasonably straightforward build. It was one of those model you could build OOB or spend the year on and enjoy every bit of it.

 

Thanks for following the build and all the comments, they very appreciated. Photo’s will be in the gallery and in RFI (hopefully different ones in each).

 

Thanks and enjoy

 

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Great looking model Rich and nicely photographed. :clap2: The wing locks are a great idea to strengthen the joint.

What surface is the deck of the display base made off and what material did you use for the pull ropes on the wheel chocks?

 

Cheers, Peter

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thanks, but I still managed to nearly knock a wing off taking photos!! Gosh they are fragile!

 

the rope is actually rope or something very similar. It's from and old Revell 1/96th model of the Cutty Sark. It was in with a whole lot of model bits when I was cleaning up my fathers place. I'm glad I finally found a use for it.!

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Yes, never throw anything away. :D One very little thing I noticed with your diorama setup. I think the ground crew would be happier if you swap the wheel chocks around so the currently left set is on the right and vice versa - gets then a bit further away from the prop. ;)

 

One other question if I may. I assume the RP3 are the 60pounds version which are the same I will use on my Sky Hawk build. Do you know how they are armed as it seems they don't have the rope anymore as was the case when used on Typhoon / Tempests?

 

Cheers, Peter

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you know I couldn't work out how those chocks would have been fitted, for a while I was going to have a bet each way! :D

 

I'm not sure for the rocket, all the photos I have of them fitted just show the one connection to the rear of the rocket and nothing else. They mount the rockets and then connect the cable up to the mount! You'd want to be very sure there wasn't a short in the system or someone playing in the cockpit!

 

I've just done a search just typing in "60lb rocket" and went to images, there's some really detailed photos of mounts and rockets being loaded.Plus tow happy armorers (they really were an odd bunch), about to fit one to  Hunter...with a cup of tea resting on the warhead (8Sqn Gallery, radanhunters.co.uk)!  

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  • 11 months later...
On 2/11/2018 at 4:44 PM, trickyrich said:

Each of the PE levers were given a blob of CA cement to help make the knobs round. 

Wow, looking over the cockpit is a thing of beauty, you even have good dial details, its such a shame that it is all sunk down inside the fuselage, it is absolutely stunning!

 

As for the wheel wells, I remember when I was a kid, building my first planes, B-17 and P-51 come to mind, the paint color stuck in my brain because of the odd name. Zinc oxide I think. The color you used reminds me of that color, wish I could remember the name. I figured it had something to do with rust prevention, but not really sure. In my second model building age, I did all modern aircraft.

 

I do plan to return to the WWII era at some point, and from your threads (and a few others) I am thinking about going up in scale, even saw a 24 scale P-51D that has me drooling. My eyes are terrible, 48 scale may be too challenging for my fat fingers as well. When I was young, the big sizes were cost prohibitive, but now they seem on par with the 48 and 35th scales, so this may be were I end up. I like big kits, they just seem more real to me, if only they could fly.

 

 

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On 2/14/2018 at 9:08 PM, trickyrich said:

I was actually really happy with the cuts as they were near perfect and almost square, so only a tiny amount of sanding to square everything up was required. 

How in the world did you make those perfect cuts thru the entire wing? Looks like a miter saw cut with a blade  kerf of   .0001 mm! Amazing job, I bow down to you!

 

On 2/14/2018 at 9:08 PM, trickyrich said:

Here it looks like a Star Wars vessel!

Yes it does, I distinctly remember Vadar landing in one of these, and the wings folded just before entering the Death Star!

On 2/22/2018 at 9:45 PM, trickyrich said:

I masked out different panels and painted them different colours of grey. 

Funny that you did this, after looking at the hundreds of photos I have for research on my various future builds, I have not found a single operational airframe with a perfect coat of paint. Many of the panels and patches are a different color that the main color used, and I planned to do something similar when I get to the detailing/weathering/repairing of my birds. I planned to mask off a few panels and using the main color, adding just small amounts of darker colors and spot spraying.

 

I know that I will need to be careful not to over do this idea, or my birds will look like a quilt, and destroy the overall look. I just hope I get the right balance. On some planes, the panels appear to have been painted over very sloppy from a rattle can, but I doubt I will try to recreate that free hand. I have though of using a fine tip brush as well, maybe a bit of both techniques will give me the look I am after.

 

Anyway, at this point, I am excited to see how this bird comes together, it is so interesting to watch it grow before my eyes. I know this was done a long time ago, but it is new to me, so very exciting to go thru the build with anticipation of what is next. The wing folds are amazing and there is no visible seams at all, I am sure that was tricky and quite nerve racking, but the payoff is absolutely worth it.

 

Sorry, I keeo reading, the select quoting as I go per page, trying to limit the swarm of comments. The select quote is a great feature I never saw before, I love it!

 

Now let me see what happened after pre-shading, I am sure more comentary/questions will arise. Sorry for that......

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On 4/6/2018 at 10:33 PM, trickyrich said:

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The leading edges of the wings has that in flight debris/bugs look perfectly. Your only trick was the sanding pads at 6,000 grit? Amazing. But this is further proof that my old days modelling of buy it, build it, paint it (with no primer/pre-shading/undercoats). As you might guess, since back then the only paint available was testors enamels, which I hated working with, especially trying to paint the little bit with a crappy $1.50 brush, there was no way that I could ever achieve results like this. But those with the knowledge and the right supplies, probably had no trouble. I never had any lessons and there was no internet to find "how to" videos. Today is a whole new ballgame.

 

On 4/7/2018 at 9:27 PM, trickyrich said:

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Not only did the weathering you call luck, come out perfect, so did the cut-outs. When I first saw the cut-out paint in the stripes, I did not fully understand it. Then I looked at the decal sheet and immediately knew what you were doing. That is micron level accuracy for it to come out right, and you nailed it.

 

Quick question, how long did it take you to become this proficient at building? I just want to get an idea if I have enough years left to become half this good!

 

The good news, I only have one page left!

 

PS. Sorry about the drool, hope it doesnt mess up your gorgeous paint job!

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On 4/12/2018 at 10:58 PM, trickyrich said:

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Wing fold locks. Did you make those from scratch? If so, how in the world did you make TWO. identical locks with pins? Amazing!

 

Two questions for you, to add to the litany of questions so far. First, everyone talks about stretched sprue, but for the life of me, I have no idea how you do that without just setting them on fire and making stringers from the goop? Effective, but the burning sprue is nasty business. I know because of my teen years. If a model turned out less than stellar, I would ultimately give it the crash and burn treatment. Yep, I was that reckless and dumb. Worse, I would normally steal some gasoline from the lawn mower, dip a paper towel into the gas and stuff it inside the kit!

 

Finally, this isn't so much a question as a "love to see it" thing. I noticed that you built a very nice set of bombs, and with your scratch building skills, I would love to see them on a loading rack near the plane, just put an already awesome build, that much further into the sky!

 

Love the build, and you are making me want to sell all my kits and go big, or go home! I won't do that, as my current stock will make for some good learning and experience. Who knows, maybe with the frenzy of information I am combing thru, they might just turn out good, well, good enough for me. I willet you know if I start looking for gasoline and rags!

 

Cheers!

 

Anthony

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Hi Anthony, wow a bit to process and work through, but am glad you liked the build, she's a very special model for me. I had hoped she would look good but I really didn't expect her to turn out so nice!

 

I will say a bit of it is what I can do but a lot is very much to the quality of the model in the first place. Fisher Model & Pattern are/were (unfortunately the owner lost the factory and their house in the tragic fire in California last year, there's no word that they'll ever restart production again) some if not the best resin models available anywhere. I'm lucky enough to have 4, this, a F9F Panther, RB-51 Racing Mustang and A-1E Skyraider conversion, all in 1/32. 

 

I've been building model on and off all my life (close to 50 years, started very young), but it's only in the past 6 years (since joining Britmodeller) that I have taken it a bit more seriously.

 

Everything for me is pretty much self taut, learning as I go, pinching ideas and generally just having ago at trying things. Biplanes & VacForm models scare me!!

 

I'll work through your posts and try and answer all your questions, will PM them to you...though may post here as well as they may interest others. Fell free to ask away with questions, alway happy to pass what ever knowledge I have on. Especially on resin models, I think most people are a little intimidated by them, but in a lot of ways they can be simpler to build than a lot of plastic models. Just that they can be quite (very) expensive at times and do take a bit of extra preparation work and time sometimes. But they are an awesome way to quickly improve your modelling skills. You'll become very adept at scratching building very quickly.

 

As this is my thread I'll post some like to some other stuff you may find interesting....all my work.

 

This is one of the few 1/72nd model I build, there were a lot of issues with the base model, warped pieces, plus I completely modded it and added some AM stuff! :wall:

 

 

This is a WhitIf beast, using a couple of AM resin kits, unfortunately the resin stuff from Unicraft is pretty poor quality (but they are the only place to go for the really obscure stuff) and was made for another base model. So I ended up having to make a lot of my own stuff and learnt how to do resin casting whilst I was at it. The drawing work is stuff I've chopped up and reassembled, it helps give me an idea of what I'm trying to achieve in a build.

 

 

This final one is pretty much a straightforward build and just about all plastic, this time it's all about the finish. You mentioned pre-shading and panelling, this has the lot! I found some awesome new Lacquer based Acrylic paint (airbrush) that goes on perfectly and so easily, it gives you an amazing finish without loosing any details. there are large areas of the model that have 20+ layers of paint (some close to 30!)

 

 

I'll leave you with this for now, plenty for you to look at and no doubt plenty of questions as well.

 

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On 4/11/2019 at 7:50 AM, trickyrich said:

plenty for you to look at and no doubt plenty of questions as well.

I don't know whether to thank you, or buy a ticket, get on a plane, walk up to your door, ring the bell, then slap you. There goes my weekend! I am going to spend the entire time combing thru these build links and undoubtedly asking a thousand-ish new questions. Before I do that, I got some good tips on resin, so I am going to seperate my F-18F nozzles from their bases. Wish me luck!

 

Again, there is no way I can properly say thank you for helping me out. If my current build comes out even half decent, it will be because of the help that you, and many others have given to me. Much appreciated,

 

Anthony

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no worries at all Anthony, am more than happy to help anyway I can. I haven't forgotten about replying to all your question, just need to get sometime. I'm currently off-shore so time is a bit tight for me, but don't worry, I'll go through all the questions.

 

With the nozzles, just take your time and check your progress often. Try not to cut off the resin block just going from one side, I usual just work the cut slowly around the block, so you're working your way evenly towards the centre. Then once done some wet & dry on a flat block, plenty of water and just slowly level off the back of the nozzle, You could even use a sharp X-acto/scalpel blade to scrape back and level the back of the nozzle.But as always, just work slowly and check your work. 

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11 hours ago, trickyrich said:

But as always, just work slowly and check your work.  

You would be proud, even before I read this, I had ready done some work on the nozzles. Using a flat PE saw from my set, I scored around the nozzles nice and slow, letting the saw do the work for me. I could tell when I was thru the material as the saw would slip a bit, but I did not get hasty, and it all came of very evenly, felt good to get it right. There is still a tiny bit of flash, not sure what you call it. It is the last bits that bridge the nozzle to the base, very thin. Since I have to remove that resin right up against  the feathers, I need to be extra careful. I planned on using the flat surface sandpaper grind. Start with that, going really slow, get to happy and I'll burn right thru the feathers.

 

Take your time, I don't need or expect answers immediately, after all, Rome was not built in a day!

 

Anthony

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