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I have a soft spot for the ejection seats so it is not surprising that I wanted to see what the tool makers have managed to do from the CAD’s.

Cut the parts from the sprue, bit of cleaning and some liquid glue. I have left the headrest off to make the painting easier just as the harness. I don’t want the hustle with all the masking, it is far easier to do them separately and fit to the seat before weathering.

 

p9hZuhx.jpg

 

 

The only extra work I did on the seat is the headrest sides with the long bulges. Sanded flat the side walls. I was not happy with the missing bulges but had to accept the constraints of injection mouldings of this part. Thin stretched sprue was made semi-circular with 10 scalpel blade and glued in place with liquid plastic cement.  

 

 8FSKqwg.jpg

 

 

3xhgufA.jpg

 

 

jDtfeOi.jpg

 

The one piece guiding rail structure was also left separately for painting. Here I did some detailing with drilling few holes and adding rivets on the back/top of the rail.

 

 

YySp797.jpg

 

 

 

For the photos a bit of Blu-Tack was used to “assemble” the seat.

Now it will join the box “To the paint shop”, hopefully at the weekend will have time for some colour (even if it is only shades of black in case of the seat).

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Concerning the question of the panel line on fuselage Frame 25. My solution was to use stretched sprue to fill the line. All in all there is about two and a half centimeters of panel line which needs attention. I use stretched sprue for the simple reason it bonds perfectly with the plastic of the kit, since it is stretched from the same plastic. Liquid plastic cement is used to position and fix the sprue in the panel line. The liquid cement melts both plastics and welds them together permanently. Since the same material is used after drying it provides a perfect surface for engraving or simply for sanding and polishing, there is no difference in material hardness. The only drawback with the liquid glue is the time factor, but I can live with that. Left the fuselage for a day or two to dry before scraping off most of the excess plastic with № 10 scalpel blade to be followed by wet and dry sanding and polishing.

In all (without glue drying time) it did not take more than half an hour.

The version I am building did not have the reinforcement plates next to frame 25 so I sanded them off. Engraved the missing panel lines and that was it.  

 

The original shape

 

e5wWjXe.jpg

 

The way after my work

 

uatcA8u.jpg

 

Cut from sprues some engine parts. Prefer to paint them separately. Little cleaning and off they went into the “Paint shop” box.

Here I have to mention a mistake of the instruction sheet. In step 10 on 8th page a wrong sequence is shown. One has to glue part D 2 (afterburner flame holder rings) inside part D5, which is the afterburner section itself. Inside the afterburner section you have a ledge where the rings go! Do not glue flame holder rings (D 2) onto the compressor stage/central body Part D4 or you will not be able to put it in Part D5 from behind (as indicated wrongly in instruction)!

 

 

LEy83cT.jpg

 

 

 

ZuC1haQ.jpg

 

 

I will not do much work on the engine compressor face since it is so deep inside the intake and not much will be visible of it on the finished kit. The actual first stage compressor fans are almost completely obstructed from view by the guiders / supports.

 

 

44QKnVE.jpg 

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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The 'Like' button is just not emphatic enough, I need a 'Super-Like' button at the very least. The promise of this kit was quite something even at the CAD stage but to see the plastic I think this could easily be THE aircraft kit of the year.

 

I have been taking a huge interest in this thread from the start and have taken steps to make sure that I have this kit in stock on my website as soon as it arrives in the UK (pre-orders are selling well already). I will be having a go at one of these even though it's not really in my scale or my normal genre, it just screams build me!

 

Thanks for all your posts on this one Gabor, keep it coming.

 

Duncan B 

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The Hibinji wing tip electronic warfare pod is now a standard fit of the Su-35S fighter bombers. Different versions of the pod are used on today’s Suhoj family fighters and bombers. They differ in container details / intakes / strakes and nose cones. Last years MAKS show was a great opportunity to clear all the details about the pods and incorporate the information into the kit and the decal sheet.

Even with in the specific version for the Su-35 aircraft there are some “major” differences between the right and the left pod. This view offers a good comparison between them.

 

 

cukHFiY.jpg

 

 

I have not yet decided if to replace the navigation lights for clear plastic versions or not. For the wing tip R-73 missile launcher rails separate clear lights are provided (Part E10) so there is a strong chance that I will borrow them.

The pods were cut from the sprue at the very beginning and the halves glued together. Dry run was made to see how they fit and a little adjustment was needed on the location pins inside to make the sides level. Once again liquid cement was used so I left the pods to dry for few days.

The pod halves join right in the middle of the completely flat top and bottom surface. On the top surface there are two tinny lifting attachments. I cut them off for the moment to make sanding the top and bottom easier. The lifting attachments will be replaced later with stretched sprue.

 

 

amibHSV.jpg

 

 

While the pods were drying started on several areas of the kit. The nose gear bay was one of them. A very shallow push pin mark is visible on Part A5. Arrow shows its place. I used super glue to fill it up. After drying it was cut flat and lightly sanded. Have no idea if it would have been visible or not, but just in case it was removed, took just minutes, so . . .

 

 

Wjy3gFk.jpg

 

 

The nose gear parts were also cut from the sprues. Here they are the way we get them. Noticed another push pin mark on nose gear oleo. Will have to deal with that, although I think some kind of foil will be used for the oleo. This is how far I got, now it’s some cleaning of the parts and doing some basic assembly of the gear leg.

 

 

Z3rM3cP.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Wow!

This is a very interesting tread... :yes:

Edited by matteo44

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I have just noticed that some basic information’s were not included here. Like the kit box is just a little over 1kg in weight (1020g) and its size is 45 x 33 x 10 cm.

 

laBwFIK.jpg

 

 

Two decal sheets are provided. One is mainly for aircraft markings while the other is for stencils.

 

lHehxCx.jpg

 

 

A small photoetch is provided. Option is given to have the flare dispensers made in a covered form (the way they are usually at air shows or on training flights), small AOA vanes are provided for the nose of the R-73 missile. There is an option to replace the plastic formation lights with nice photoetch examples. A template is included for positioning the small formation lights on top and bottom of the wings.

 

 

sEZ5RLI.jpg 

 

Here are the sprues.

 

r2DcYwL.jpg

 

 

T6D28YE.jpg

 

 

 

MbYgkuu.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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While some primer was drying on first painted parts did some assembly work on the nose gear. For full use of the kit, sprue pieces were used to hold the different part for painting.

 

vr6c85U.jpg

 

 

This is as the leg stands (is lying down) :winkgrin: at the moment. The moulding pin marks (shown last time) were filled with drops of super glue and sanded. Basically this is out of box here apart from that single brace. Don’t know how much will be visible of it, still it was there on my photos of the original aircraft so made it from extra thin plastic sheet. This brace is holding some of the piping so I will need it later on.

 

NmQ8k5I.jpg

 

 

UyrbRiG.jpg

 

 

CMOzqhl.jpg

 

 

In the next step I will start some super detailing of the gear leg. Adding piping, some wiring and a bit of detailing the plastic parts based on photos.

 

 

The slats are made from two parts mainly to avoid the usual sink marks that one would find on all Flanker kits. Also this way it can be assembled both in up or down position. On the ground / in static it is almost always in dropped position. Here liquid cement was used, it run into the joint line perfectly. There are location pins inside the slats, where super glue was to add strength to the slats. I avoid using liquid cement for location pins since it melts the plastic and could result in nasty sink mark when it dry’s completely.

 

UTdUW2a.jpg

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Work is on but nothing spectacular to show. Some work on the intakes. The engine front compressor stage is in the paint shop. Had a look at the intake ducting. The two part “air duct” is where there is a transformation from square cross section to the round engine front. Not much will be visible of the inside but I think I will still do some filling of the longitudinal joint line. Here a slight force had to be used to get the side walls in right place, but actually if one puts the two parts inside the engine cover part everything will fall in place. There is spare space left. The outer wall of the duct also act as the wall inside the main gear pivot area.

 

 

lMauoTA.jpg

 

 

 

iNZ72C9.jpg

 

 

Some wheel parts are about to go into the paint shop but before this I slightly improved on the cooling vents of the wheel brakes. A 0.35 mm drill was used to open up the holes to make them more prominent. There is absolutely no problem with the stock plastic parts, a bit of weathering would do the job. It was simply my own personal taste and the holes were drilled.

 

 

7KITTQq.jpg

 

 

There are parts of the kit which I consider as extras and in some cases appealing only to a very small minority of modellers. One such thing is the radar unit. Somewhere I have already written about it as it was a late addition to surface again after it was left of at an early stage of design. Once it was clear that it will be part of the kit, I forced the inclusion of a decal for the front face of the radar.

The radar will not be part of my kit, but still would like to see what it looks like in final form and what is more important how does the decal look on it. So it will be a side-track work in days ahead.

 

 

38owS3l.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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A bit of fun between doing painting. Wanted to see what the radar looks like even if it will not be used on this airframe. (But Never say Never)  So first a quick dry run of the parts. Between parts C4 and C5 there is joint line, which I would prefer not to be there. Later to hide it I added a 0.13 thin sheet of styrene sheet to hide it.

 

 

scrO3E0.jpg

 

 

2mhE3Qd.jpg 

 

 

 

7wi3VOR.jpg

 

 

 

OK, so how dose it look like on the nose of the kit?

 

 

P9FkTj4.jpg

 

 

 

Add the radar dish and it is complete. This time only Blu-Tack was used to see the whole assembly.

 

 

 

8rVoBet.jpg

 

 

 

 

All the fun with the radar was accompanied with some experimenting to make other sensors for the kit, like the new style AOA / pitot sensors and the little round sensors which are positioned around the cockpit to give a 360 view of the surrounding.

 

 

 

JqGd4yp.jpg

 

 

The ideas worked so they will be back when finishing the kit.

 

Best regards

Gabor

Edited by ya-gabor

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On a Russian forum a question was raised concerning the radar. At the base of the radar on the forward bulkhead Ш1 (fuselage frame 1) there is a conical shaped protector. It is made up of three segments for ease of maintenance and each one can be removed with 3 screws on each side from the dedicated support frame. At least on the left side there is an opening on the covers.

It covers the base of the radar units and lots of wiring but also the beautifully perforated Frame 1. :crying:

 

 

P9FkTj4.jpg 

 

 

 

It is concerning this that the question was raised. The perforated Frame 1 was visible on so many occasions at different shows and press events. Yes, it is true that this frame looks like this (have to say it is fantastic and would love to make it for the kit) but the aircraft seen in the past were either prototypes or radar test bed airframes (like a test Su-30).

 

The G.W.H Su-35S kit is intended to represent production aircraft and from these aircraft from Batch 2 and higher up. On production examples this protector conical shaped unit was installed. Have to add a correction here to the G.W.H instruction sheet. The colour of the conical shaped unit should be light blue. Well this is what they look like on photos and TV programs from the KnAAPO Su-35 assembly line. This is the reason why it was made for the kit. Blame me if you don’t like it. :winkgrin:

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Assembly of parts is at full swing. Painting in parallel with this. So a few drops of paint was added to the ejection seat to show what is going on.

 

dZFfC2T.jpg

 

 

The K-36D-5 seat is still to be finished. As mentioned earlier what you see is the stock seat from the G.W.H Su-35S kit. Only the bulges on the side of the headrest were added and bits and pieces cut from the original plastic. On the side walls of the pan small details were added, but that is all. The rest is some paint. Well about 5-6 shades of black, the green for the upholstery. The straps / harness part (I 40) was slightly thinned down. Shades of grey for the harness and very light greys for the parachute lines.

All mixed acrylics, some Humbrol and a lot of Caran d’Ache aquarelle’s for highlights and shadows.

 

 

qAAT2j5.jpg

 

 

c2nrG9Z.jpg

 

 

il69fCj.jpg

 

 

 

 

After a gloss overall the decals were applied. Note that slight trimming and adjusting is needed for decal A 39. I cut from its length on both sides. Apart from the decals given in the kit I also added few other markings from the spare box ( Eduard MiG-21 decals). They were not included in the set since they are not so visible.

Please note that the decal sheet has two of each of A37 and A38 decals. There is one spare for each of them. These markings are only on the left side of the seat, so use just one.

 

 

The kit decal has the red  НЕ НАГРУЖАТЬ stencil on the arms restrain parts, which are barely visible.

But so are they on the real aircraft.

 

 

pGTZBjm.jpg

 

A gloss coat to seal the decals was followed with a Satin overall layer. This is where we are at the moment. The upholstery will get a matt finish while the seat metal parts a semi gloss. Some rubber parts and the ejection handle are full gloss on the real seat.

This is what we I have now.

 

 

sI3AL7Y.jpg

 

 

V4P1ukc.jpg

 

 

 

An Eduard ЗШ-7 helmet was painted to go with the seat. :D

 

 

HOs5mnt.jpg

 

 

aUHy8iQ.jpg

 

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Nice job on the seat ;)

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Thanks Mike!

 

There is still a lot of things to do on it. Mind you this is all plastic!  The ejection firing handle could be more fine but this is how far the mould makers dared to go. Have to add that on Modelsvit 72 nd seats there are far more detailed and smaller parts.

 

I am sure one or two aftermarket company will come up with replacement firing handles, just hope that they get the shape right. (They never do). They should note that almost every K-36 seat version has a different D ring.

 

Best regards

Gabor

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seat looks good and busy!

 

 

 

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Some painting is underway as well as continuing work on the radar unit.

The different wheel disks are painted separately. Here they already received a layer of gloss and some shading. A bit more highlights to be followed by a covering gloss and a semi matt and matt layer later.

 

vIAVzme.jpg

 

Here are some colour notes for anyone intending to do the unit.

The radar main body (C3 C4 C7) parts are light blue-grey. C 5 is also light blue-grey with the centre unit rectangular units are bright dark blue. The sides are yellow.

Here you see the first step of painting with the preliminary layer of light brey-blue.

 

 

05b0AhI.jpg

 

 

The radar front (C 6), the dish front face is gloss yellow (will be covered with decal). On its sides one finds two rings. The one to the back is the same light blue-grey as the main body. The antenna sensor strips are covered with the same grey-green dielectric fibre plastic as on earlier versions of Su-27’s. The only difference is that from the front it is covered with a golden yellow transparent film. This is what we tried to reproduce with the decal. The dielectric grey-green cover is attached to the antenna body with 12 screws.

 

    

b4nmHtO.jpg

 

 

There is a small horn antenna at the top left hand corner (looking from front) on the radar dish. This should serve for positioning the decal.

Now if anyone is not happy with doing all the painting of the radar dish but still wants to show it in open form, simply add a red cover over the whole dish. On the ground when the nose cone is removed the red cover is usually fitted to protect the unit.

 

The light blue on part C1 is not the final shade.

 

Best regards

Gabor

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With today’s date 1 st of March I would expect that spring is here. Just as in the rest of Europe we have extreme cold, blizzards and lots of snow. During the night there were places with below minus 20-25 degrees Centigrade. With the Siberian cold wave (if there is a heat wave) I needed something to remind me of heat, nice warmth, sunshine and a pleasant summer lunch. What better than an Italian style spaghetti. No fresh tomato’s to work from and the grated cheese is not exactly the right type but had to do with what is available.

 

wZQlXlb.jpg

 

 

Onions and the minced meat heated, mushrooms added, garlic, spices and the tomatoes while the spaghetti went into boiling water. Add lots of cheese. I love it!

 

Fast, easy and stirs up some nice warm memories while it is extremely cold and unpleasant outside!  

 

 

ZuWa6NB.jpg

 

 

I am sure few eyebrows will be raised by our Italian friends, seeing what I have made, but I am long way from Italy and this is what I managed to make. :D ;) :D

 

This is a bit of off-topic but we have extreme circumstance, so  . . .

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Great comfort food for this cold spell we're in. :thumbsup: 

 

/Bosse

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Here are few additional colour notes to go with cockpit painting. The two side panels which were show the wrong way around on the original instruction sheet are the typical Sukhoy cockpit blue grey colour. There are 4 small shock absorbers here which are metallic aluminium / bronze colour.

 

The central panel for the control stick is light grey with a black control stick base in the centre.

 

Behind it on part C75 there are two metallic (chrome) cylinders.

 

The floor of the cockpit is green just as the “leg-room” for the pilot.

 

jOR4bSQ.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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There was some talk about the tinted second canopy in the special edition version of the G.W.H Su-35S kit.

 

 

y50Mmjo.jpg

 

 

Back in 2013 I had a close look at the Sukhoi front windshield on show in Moscow. It was tinted, in fact it was a nano layer on the glass surface and the manufacturer was showing all the advantages it has. What the actual tint colour was difficult to tell but here is a photo made back then. Have a look. (The photo was taken in a dark exhibition hall with flash so the colours are not real.) I would say it is a kind of light “tea” colour.

 

 

vw4snej.jpg 

 

 

The tinted canopy against the clear windshield. The shade difference is not as great as on some Western aircraft types. The colour is more real, taken in summer, clear skys and sunshine.

 

tE6Ao19.jpg

 

 

Here are the two canopy sprues from the kit with different backgrounds to highlight the comparison between them.

 

 

 rj4CxEo.jpg

 

 

TVui6f9.jpg

 

 

fm08WzZ.jpg

 

 

Still not decided if I want to use the tinted version or go for a home made one.

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Few step by step notes for engine exhaust assembly. Question is how it moves and what you need to do to make it move.

 

Personally I feel that it would have been more than enough to give us a choice of:

-  1. “level” position, that is engines running and exhaust parallel to engine axis

-  2. and engines pivoted, in static position when they look down and inwards.

Well what you get in the kit is an exhaust that you can turn around at will. I have seen Su-35 taxi on the ground with one engine looking full up and the other down and one of them completely closed while the other one is open. So if you want that, then the possibility is given.

Please note that the assembly below was made as a dry run and only blu-tack was used to fix some of the parts. It was not about the fit of parts, more a step by step of what to do!

 

Here are the main parts for the engine exhaust. Please note again that afterburner flame holder ring D2 should be positioned on the ledge inside D5! It should NOT be placed on engine compressor part D 4!!!

 

 

stPkvmC.jpg

 

This is how the exhaust works:

 

lZFpmer.jpg

 

 

It is very important that the outer ring of part D5 shown on the photo is not painted at all. In fact I would recommend a slight sanding of it. Actually the other side of D5 does not need any paint at all as it will be invisible. Just as well the adjacent inner area on part F1 would not need any paint, but only where it is covered by D5.

My choice is to fix F1 and D5 in position as I will want them at the end and start inner painting only after this.

 

 

FSMKPPS.jpg

 

 

8UpxmCA.jpg

 

Now you will need a bit of force to push D5 into F1 as shown. Don’t be afraid. But it is important to know that this is not something that you expect to do any half hour. It is recommended that you push D5 into place and that is it. One can move around D5 inside F1 to achieve the required angle but it is a very tight fit so this is why I recommended earlier a bit of sanding to make space.

 

 

 

 

While the instruction sheet in step 10 shows that you should glue together the petals (D 10-13 or D6 to D9 if you want a “closed” exhaust) separately and fitting it to F1 ring later. I prefer to assemble the petals on F1. There are ridges on F1 surface to make location perfectly precise.

 

4HlIbld.jpg

 

 

To finish off the assembly ring F2 is pulled over the petals and attached to D5. There is a positioning notch on the ring of D5 for help.

 

 

 

tIB4agB.jpg

 

 

PFeLm17.jpg

 

 

Moving the exhaust:

 

 

E902JfY.jpg

 

 

vCZFlJm.jpg

 

 

 

 

Hope all the photos explain clearly what needs to be done and where things go. Please ask if you need help.  

 

Best regards

Gabor

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I just got this at great expense via Lucky Models. But...what a package. I'm so impressed with GWH, and your build is doing this amazing kit justice.

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