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Boeing 737-300 - WP's Simpsons #FINISHED#


nimrod54

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23 hours ago, Turbofan said:

I've got loads of very fine wire, go on you know you want to! There's loads of time until May:christmas:

And normally I would like to help you to reduce your stockpile of fine wire, :fraidnot::christmas: but there are the Hawker and Carriers Ahoy GBs to squeeze in too. :frantic:

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I have made steady progress on this since the previous update. The fuselage halves have been joined, undercarriage bays have received some white primer and I will add a gloss coat over that before I start to experiment with washes to try and achieve the grubby look in the previous photos. I also took @Viking advice and filled the door outlines and cockpit windows (thanks John), I used Citadels Liquid Green Stuff for this, we'll see how successful that has been when I add some primer.

 

38459957510_e650104c39_c.jpg

by John L, on Flickr

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That's a good idea filling the door outlines - most times the decals don't line up with any engraved detail on the kit. How have you found the Citadel filler? I'm still trying to find an easily usable filler that doesn't shrink too much when dry. I'm increasingly turning to superglue as a decent filler.

Progressing nicely with this one.

 

Jeff

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6 hours ago, pinky coffeeboat said:

How have you found the Citadel filler? I'm still trying to find an easily usable filler that doesn't shrink too much when dry. I'm increasingly turning to superglue as a decent filler.

 

This is the first time I have used it Jeff, so the jury is still out on how effective it is, like you I have used superglue to fill unwanted panel lines and over zealous re-scribing.

 

I watched a few videos of figure modellers using it to fill gaps, so I thought that I would see how useful it would be for this job. It's quite thick in the pot, slightly thinner than oil paint, and I applied good layer of it along the door outlines with a cocktail stick. It takes around an hour to dry but I left it for a few hours before sanding it back, once I had revealed the door outline I stopped sanding in that area. 

I should mention that it is water soluble and in the user videos I watched it was brushed into the area to be filled, then blended back into the surrounding area using water and a brush. A couple of modellers reported some slight shrinkage and felt that a further application would be needed but they were filling quite large gaps. The initial results look promising in this case though. HTH

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That's looking good John. It seems to me that it is quite rare for door decals to actually line up with the engraved outlines, so i always try to remember to fill them.

Interesting stuff that Citadel filler, not heard of it before.

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Thanks for the very useful info about the Citadel filler. 

 

The door outlines on the generic decal sheet included in older Daco kits do actually fit the kit door outlines so presumably the same will apply with the Simpsons sheet.  However I never think door decals applied over recessed outlines look realistic so I always fill the moulded outline whatever kit/decal combination I'm building.  Don't forget you have to find the door positions later under a coal of paint!  I usually make four tiny marks with a pin, one each at the centre of the top, bottom and sides, just enough to guide me but not large enough to be visible on the completed model.

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@nimrod54

a little primer experiment for you. My donor Gnat, half Halfords appliance white, half Tamiya’s pink primer. 

resized_1765bdfd-0f71-4a7d-9505-8e139fbe

And now under a coat of Humbrol acrylic 69 from a rattle can

resized_b45aeeab-010b-46f0-8249-d7810d6f

 

The pink primer side is showing a slight orange tinge to the yellow. Will give it 24 hrs then another coat. 

 

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45 minutes ago, nimrod54 said:

That's kind of you buddy, I look forward to the result and thanks for trying it out.

Will be building a Sea King at some point, it’s all useful stuff. 😎

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On ‎18‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 16:49, Jabba said:

Are you going to try the wing interlock cut off?

 

Not too sure yet Jabba. I thought that the wing interlock was designed to help keep everything aligned properly, but I'll see how they fit once I have cleaned the fuselage up.

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@nimrod54 second coat of yellow. It was a thicker covering (read heavy handed)

resized_4e21f70f-bdee-48d5-afc0-1be2cddc

and in lovely welsh sunlight!(making the most of that!)

resized_a6331dcf-f204-42b4-8923-0ef69a8e

My conclusion 

the pink primer has given the yellow a slightly darker tinge than the white. 

 

So 👚 does work under yellow, depending on what colour you want for final shade to be. 

HTH😎

 

Edited by Hockeyboy76
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@Hockeyboy76

That looks to have a good depth to the colour, particularly in the Welsh sunshine. Thanks for posting the results here, you have convinced me enough to purchase a can and I will check to see how the Simpsons Yellow looks over it. It will also be useful as a base for red and orange so it won't go amiss, and it's certainly going to make your Sea King pop.

 

Cheers buddy

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  • 3 weeks later...

Now that I have finished my Grumman Avenger from one of last years group builds, it's time to catch up with the progress that you guys have made and to push on with this one. Not much to report on at present other than the fact that the wings have now been attached and after a quick glance  the root joins look pretty good. There is a very small gap at the leading edge on the port wing but a little bit of filler should take care of that.

 

40820020461_4529dac37e_c.jpg

by John L, on Flickr

 

40820019411_4094b4490e_c.jpg

by John L, on Flickr

 

40820018421_1a904ae3cf_c.jpg

by John L, on Flickr

 

 

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I made a start on assembling and painting the engine parts last night, the fan was painted with Mr Metal Color Chrome silver, I used Citadel Leadbelcher for the rear section and Mr Metal Color Dark Iron for the centre cone. Everything was left overnight, then this morning I gave the fan a wash of Citadel Nuln Oil and when dry followed this with a dry brush of Mr Metal Color Aluminium, and the spinners were painted with Vallejo Gloss Black primer.

 

39944352755_1dc467c4d9_c.jpg

by John L, on Flickr

 

Assembly of the engines outer sections quickly followed and these will be left to dry fully before I start to clean up the joins.

Does anybody know if the two little moulded sections to the rear of the pods are a part of the structure? You can see one of them to the rear of the pod (near to the moulded circle) and the second, less prominent one is further back and nearer to the pylon attachment point.

 

39944352475_8cd80c5ec6_c.jpg

by John L, on Flickr 

 

Does anybody know what the two little moulded sections to the rear of the pods are for? You can clearly see one in the above photo, at the rear of the pod (near to the moulded circle) the second, less prominent one is further back and nearer to the pylon attachment point. They are only on the inner faces and appear to line up with the little strake, so I am wondering if it is something to help improve the airflow in this area. I don't think that they are moulding flaws but I thought that I would check to see if they should be there before I 'merrily have a go at 'em wiv a sanding stick'. :winkgrin:

 

Any help/advice would be welcome.

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1 hour ago, nimrod54 said:

 

Does anybody know what the two little moulded sections to the rear of the pods are for? You can clearly see one in the above photo, at the rear of the pod (near to the moulded circle) the second, less prominent one is further back and nearer to the pylon attachment point. They are only on the inner faces and appear to line up with the little strake, so I am wondering if it is something to help improve the airflow in this area. I don't think that they are moulding flaws but I thought that I would check to see if they should be there before I 'merrily have a go at 'em wiv a sanding stick'. :winkgrin:

 

Any help/advice would be welcome.

 

Have a look at the 737-400 walkaround.  It's easier to start from the bottom and scroll upwards.  There are several excellent photos showing the feature you're talking about.

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Thanks Ray, the colours I've used are close enough for me. And thanks should also go to @Skodadriver for passing the link to the Britmodeller walkaround section, I don't often think of looking in there but I should check it out more often.

 

1 hour ago, Romeo Alpha Yankee said:

Interesting way Daco do the engine/pylon attachment. Most other have the pylon attached to the engine rather than the wing.

In this case it's also going to make for some interesting masking too, because I have to paint the pylons Simpsons Blue. Will I paint the pylon first or last, decisions, decisions. :winkgrin:

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15 minutes ago, Hockeyboy76 said:

She’s looking good. Will be time to turn it into a yellow submarine soon 😱

Cheers mate, I have to check all the joins over once it warms up enough for me to get outside with a rattle can. :cold: I must check that the ditching mods have been done before I turn it into a submarine. :winkgrin:

 

 

 

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