Thank God We Didn't Go Into Extra Time. AM Tech Ta-183

[Gorby]

 

I've always had a fascination for experimental aircraft or those than never left the drawing board. If there were more 1/48 kits of experimental aircraft of other nations, I would happily build those. As the Me 509 and Ta 183 would share many paints, I thought I might as well try doing a double bill.

 

My Me 509 Thread:

 

As with my Trumpeter Me 509 build, this thread is mainly because I couldn't find a Britmodeller post on this kit that runs to the end of the build. As I'm only an average modeller, it isn't intended to be the definitive build review, it's just intended to help you avoid the pitfalls I fell into. I hope it helps someone.

 

This is an odd kit. Not just because of the subject matter, but because there are things that have been done very well and things that have been skimped on. It reminds me of the Hobby Boss 'Easy assemble' kits. It would have been nice to have the flight surfaces as separate parts, but many kits don't so I won't knock it for that. After spending four months on my previous build I had decided that I would go for an easier build this time, so I didn't mess around with the control surfaces this time.

 

The wing-tip navigation lights are moulded into the wing – no clear parts are provided. Although these are relatively easily made for a reasonably competent modeller, it's a little annoying that you have to go through the hassle. I'm not sure how much this kit cost when it was released, but I should imagine that it wasn't very cheap – but this is something I would expect from either a kit from the bargain bucket or from the days of old. I drilled and painted the 'light' and left the clear plastic chunk to dry for about a week. (This is the green light, so I don't know why I can see red in the photo?)

 

 

For me, the biggest problem: no air intake!

It's a jet! Air sucked in and air squirted out the back - but rather than a hole in the front, there is a merely shallow cave! I had a look at quite a few builds of this kit online, and each time I saw a 'head-on' shot it completely destroyed the illusion. So that was one thing I was determined to rectify – but it was far from easy.

Drilling the hole wasn't the problem of course, it was the 'tunnel' behind it that turned out to be a bit of a mare. I went for a 6mm hole and found that the barrel of a biro was perfect for the internal diameter, but there isn't a lot of space between the top of the nose-wheel well and the underside of the cockpit, so if you can, I would recommend using a tube that has a smaller external dimension than a biro. It was a ludicrously tight fit and I ended up sanding the base of the cockpit and the top of the wheel well to gain about 0.5mm, I sanded both sideds of the biro as well, and still had to lower the wheel well about 1.5mm. Basically, it took me a ludicrous amount of time to open the front up, so if you decide to do the same, it isn't going to be easy. But now I've managed it, I'm pathetically pleased with the end result.

 

6mm hole drilled (easier to centre it from the back) and gun holes opened up. It took quite a bit of effort to cut and sand back the opening of the intake to a nice intaky sort of shape.

 

This is the air intake tube. Yes I know the engine would have been mounted much further back in the fuselage, but I just wanted to get the effect of seeing the engine face down a tunnel. The collar around the top is just to make it easier to attach to the curved, inner surface of the nose. I also hollowed out the end of the biro to extend the shape of the intake from the nose part.

 

Biro tube attached to the nose and chunk hacked out to allow for the cockpit floor.

 

Engine face made from a bit from the spares box that had a round face of the correct size. The spinner is the end of a wooden paint brush handle and the fan blades are just drawn on with a fine marker pen. Looks very crude here, but quite good in reality (it does in my head anyway).

 

Over-kill admittedly, but I don't want the engine 'face' falling off, so this is a little insurance. The wire was just to hold it in place while it dried - I had to remove it as it wouldn't have fitted otherwise. Notice that I have inserted a small piece of brass tube in the gun holes.

 

Taaaaddaaaaah!

As you are only seeing it in cheap and nasty 2D rather than glorious, technicolor 3D vision, so the engine face looks much closer to the front in the photo.

 

Thanks for looking – comments welcome.

 

Gorby

[Gorby]

Thanks for the 'likes'.

This may look like I work like the clappers, but I started this build over a month ago and I'm adding stuff here when I get time…..

 

Of course, opening the intake left me with a problem – where to put the nose weight. Most of it I shoved behind the cockpit and I must admit to a little over-kill here as well, but I'd rather put in too much rather than not enough and end up with a tail sitter. Obviously, the nearer the front the weight is, the less you need, so as the only place I had was well back in the fuselage, I added 68g in total. This included the two pieces of lead each side of the cockpit. As I know that this is much more weight than I need, at the end of the build I'll add some temporary weight on the tail to see if I can come up with a more accurate figure for the nose weight required.

 

 

Finally, after the nose well and the cockpit have been fitted.

 

Another problem with this kit is that if you want to pose the canopy open, you have to endure the nerve racking experience of sawing it. It's not the first time I've done this sort of thing, but each time I am all too aware that if I screw it up, it will seriously bugger up the rest of the build. You can see from the photo that I use a masking tape guide. I cut as close as I can to the piece with the arrows, the other masking tape is to protect the canopy if the saw jumps out of the cut. I also pack the front and the back of the canopy with Blue Tac, which does the dual job of making it less likely that it will crack when I grip it too tightly, and it also sticks it to the cutting mat to stop it moving around.

 

Mission successful.

 

The nose wheel well looks a bit bland, so I added a little extra interest around the sides with 0.25 x 0.5 styrene strips.

 

The rear of the instrument panel is just visible on the completed build, so I added some 5 Amp fuse wire to each dial. Then painted them yellow – only because I saw that someone else had done it and liked the result.

 

The nose-wheel lacks scissors, easily added using 0.25 plastic card. I have also cut and glued the nose wheel a little off-centre.

 

 

Thanks for taking the time to look – comments are always welcome. Don't forget that there is also my Me 509 on the other channel. 

 

Gorby

[Gorby]

As I mentioned in the 509 thread, this is the fist time I've used Airscale instrument panel decals. I know my use of dials aren't accurate (see the 509 thread for the reason) but I like the effect, 100% better than my cack-handed painting can achieve anyway.

 

The cockpit assembly is fitted after the fuselage halves are glued – it's inserted though the nose opening. I mention this because there is no room for error in locating the cockpit and yet when I came to test fit the front canopy, the bulbous gun aiming thingy above the instrument panel stops the canopy fitting, by quite some margin as you can see from the photo.

 

The only way I could think to sort this, was to remove and 'refine' the bulbous thing. Left is before and right, after surgery.

 

I used my home-made aircraft stand for the first time ever on this build, and was pleasantly surprised how well it worked. Feeing very smug.

 

The under-wing pylons don't match the contour of the underside of the wing!

 

I I found the easiest way to get the correct shape, was to fold some sandpaper over the wing. Obviously that also removed the pegs for locating them under the wing, so before I started sanding I marked a pencil line each side of the pylon for each of the pegs. When the shaping was complete, I drilled holes for new pegs and used short lengths of a paper-clip to make new locating pegs.

 

Next – the painting. 

 

Thanks for taking the time to look – comments are always welcome.

 

Gorby

[Gorby]

Painting isn't my favourite part of the build, probably because I'm never really happy with the results. If I wanted to be the bestest modeller ever, I'd practice more with the airbrush, but as plastic mangling is one of many interests, I haven't the enthusiasm to go the extra mile. So it looks like I'm always going to be a jack of all trades and master of none – but I'm happy with that. Enough of the excuses. 

 

After marking the camo design lightly using a soft pencil and pre-shading I sprayed the under side and the snaky lines on the side and top with Tamiya XF80. I've mentioned before that I usually use the nearest Tamiya equivalent, or more often than not, colours that I like the look of.

 

I rolled long thin worms of Blu-Tac to cover the light grey lines – not that easy as Blu-Tac seems to find my fingers more attractive than plastic.

 

After the lighter green (XF 73) I used a method that @hairystick suggested and rather than waste masking tape, I used bits of plastic bag, roughly cut to shape and pushed into the Blu-Tac with a curved scalpel blade. Thanks Hairy, it's a quick, easy and free method that I will be using on many future occasions.

 

After the dark green (XF 58) I decided it looked too stark.

 

So went over the edges of the light grey free-hand to blur them a little and then thinned the grey down more and sprayed over the whole top-side to tone it down and help to blend it all together. The trouble is that after all this faffing around, the pre-shading was almost completely hidden, drat.

 

Up next – stencilling and decals.

 

Thanks for taking the time to look – comments are always welcome.

 

Gorby

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

I like both your builds Gorby. I think your paint is good on the Ta-183 👍.

[Gorby]

16 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

I like both your builds Gorby. I think your paint is good on the Ta-183 👍.

Thanks Dennis!

I'm often in awe of some of the paint jobs I see on BM and feel a little embarrassed at my efforts in comparison. I'll get over it... in fact I just have. 

[TheBaron]

Wow - that looks great Gorby!

You've really buffed that kit up very nicely - superb work on cutting the canopy BTW, I know just how nerve-wracking a process that can be. That's a really attractive paint scheme too - did that scheme ever have an official name do you know?

 

Lovely work sir.

 

Tony

[Gorby]

1 hour ago, TheBaron said:

Wow - that looks great Gorby!

You've really buffed that kit up very nicely - superb work on cutting the canopy BTW, I know just how nerve-wracking a process that can be. That's a really attractive paint scheme too - did that scheme ever have an official name do you know?

 

Lovely work sir.

 

Tony

Thanks Tony! Nice of you to say so.

I believe the scheme was called 'figment of my imagination'. I realise that it might be considered to be cruel to the rivet-counters, but one of the reasons I like to do Luft-46 subject is because it gives you free reign to do pretty much whatever you want to. It didn't exist, so no one can say it's wrong. 

(Which is about as rebellious as I get).

[hairystick]

On 2/25/2018 at 9:27 AM, Gorby said:

After the lighter green (XF 73) I used a method that @hairystick suggested and rather than waste masking tape, I used bits of plastic bag, roughly cut to shape and pushed into the Blu-Tac with a curved scalpel blade. Thanks Hairy, it's a quick, easy and free method that I will be using on many future occasions.

That build is coming along very nicely and your paintwork is looking great!

I'm glad you liked my suggestion (I find it easier to use than masking tape now). It'll be fine with water-based paints but I'm hesitant with lacquers though, as the solvents will attack the thin plastic quite quickly.

 

Keep up the good work on these two builds.

[Gorby]

3 minutes ago, hairystick said:

That build is coming along very nicely and your paintwork is looking great!

I'm glad you liked my suggestion (I find it easier to use than masking tape now). It'll be fine with water-based paints but I'm hesitant with lacquers though, as the solvents will attack the thin plastic quite quickly.

 

Keep up the good work on these two builds.

Thanks again for the suggestion and thanks for you comment.

It seems that BM hive mind has a way of coming up with good ideas just when I need them.

[Gorby]

Decals are works of the devil and they hate me as much as I hate them. I'm always looking for ways of reducing the evil little things, so on both this and my Me 509, I've tried to reduce them as much as possible. Using a combination of scanning the kit decals, looking online and messing around on my graphic package, I printed off some stencil templates. These were then taped behind some clear plastic and as you can see, even with the Tamiya tape on the top, the stencil is clearly visible. Normally at this stage, people usually say “with a new blade”, but I just give the knife with the sharpest scalpel blade a few passes on 1000 grit sandpaper and it as sharp as it was when it was new. This is the best sharpening method I've found for my carpentry tools and it works just as well for scalpel blades.

 

This is the first time I've used stencils for anything other than national markings, so I chose numbers and shapes that I thought would be easier to cut out. On a previous Luftwaffe build I mentioned that I wasn't demented enough to cut swastika stencils, but it looks like madness descends on all off us eventually. Fortunately these are the single colour swastikas, the ones with black and white boarders will be a bit more of a challenge.

 

Balkenkreuz (German cross insignia) and swastika masked up ready for spraying black, or more precisely XF69 (NATO black).

 

The downside with doing it this way is you end up using a sod of a lot of masking tape – but I always reuse as much of it as possible.

 

This is the result of the stencil work, before the decalling. The result of the Me 509 stencilling is shown as well.

 

I nearly forgot to mention the missiles. One of the positive points of this kit is that you get four quite nicely modelled Ruhrstahl X-4 missiles. The painting instructions in the instructions is a little confusing so I used this photo:

 

The only addition I made to these is to add tiny ailerons to the wings. I'm not entirely happy with the wood effect on the wings but as I'm never happy with my painting it's not really surprising is it. Unfortunately I knocked one of my desk and didn't notice until I felt a crunching sensation under my shoe. It's amazing how many pieces such a small thing can fragment into, but the carpet monster stayed hungry as I managed to find every last bit. It's time to play 'spot the mangled one', I can tell, can you?

 

Some photos (of models) and diagrams online have a variety of ideas about the possibility of aerials or antennas. As nothing is included in the kit, I decide that I'd do a ring antenna (is that what they are called?) out of a spare bit of PE and a blob of plastic from the scrap box.

 

One final thing to mention before the final reveal. I mentioned that I would say how much nose weight is required. The lead I crammed in did turn out to be a bit over the top, because it took 36 grams on the tail to tip it from its nose wheel, But I'd rather have too much than too little. In total I think that anything over 32 grams would be enough to prevent it being a tail sitter, if you didn't open up the air intake and are able to put the weight nearer the front, then you may be able to get away with less.

 

The RFI will be along in a few days when I get time to sort out the pics.

 

Thanks for taking the time to look – comments are always welcome.

 

Gorby

 

[Pete in Lincs]

Well played that chap.

They are both looking good.

 

You want 'what if'?

Click on 'view all messages in this thread' and scroll down

to the fourth picture of the Thunderbirds aircraft.

[Gorby]

Thanks Pete!

 

18 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

You want 'what if'?

Click on 'view all messages in this thread' and scroll down

to the fourth picture of the Thunderbirds aircraft.

I'm pretty sure this isn't written in Japanese, but it might as well be for the sense I'm making of it. Brain cells seem to be on strike today. 

[Mike]

I did one of these in the Tamiya boxing when I came back to the hobby, although mine was OOB and not so ambitious I have another sat in the stash with all the Aires resin waiting for me to see if I've improved over the years

[Gorby]

43 minutes ago, Mike said:

I did one of these in the Tamiya boxing when I came back to the hobby, although mine was OOB and not so ambitious I have another sat in the stash with all the Aires resin waiting for me to see if I've improved over the years

It's has been an…. Erm, interesting build, I sort of expected it to be a better quality kit that it turned out to be. Quite enjoyed to though and I'm well please that I've finally done it – and the Me 509.

It would be interesting what you could do with the kit now, although probably best if you wait a couple of years first – so you don't show mine up too soon. 

Thanks for stopping by and for commenting. 

[Mike]

I'm actually scared of making a big hash of it, or it being left on the shelf for years to my shame I've actually got the Me.509 to do at some point too - I quite like the Luft46 stuff on the quiet.  When you can get it in 1:48 that is

[bzn20]

Great subjects and brilliant work.. That 509 has the look of Heinemann's Douglas Skynight except that was a Jet Night Fighter. Nice work on the TA183 nose leg torque link too. The TA183 is where Lavochkin and Mikoyan went next. Was this a Kurt Tank design ? Love both !

[Gorby]

25 minutes ago, bzn20 said:

Great subjects and brilliant work.. That 509 has the look of Heinemann's Douglas Skynight except that was a Jet Night Fighter. Nice work on the TA183 nose leg torque link too. The TA183 is where Lavochkin and Mikoyan went next. Was this a Kurt Tank design ? Love both !

Thanks Bzn! I see what you mean about the Skyknight. Apparently there is some debate as to whether the MiG 15 was influenced by the 183 – there are many similarities, but there are also quite a few differences. I suppose if you strap wings and a pilot onto a jet engine then there only so many variations on a theme. Out of interest, I've posed the two together:

 

And yes it was a Kurt Tank design, which he work on further when he lived in Argentina, FMA IAe 33 Pulqui II.

[Martian]

That's beautiful, I' not sure why you were worried about the painting bit, I see nothing wrong with it.

 

Martian

[bzn20]

Thanks... I was thinking pre Mig 15,Mig 9 ish nose (But that's all) and Lavotckin La15 bet that fin on the 183 didn't do much that close to the CofG Not sure but never seen one like that flying , just  design proposals. The range of development in Germany was something else, seems everything was investigated.

 

Just as well they never saw light of day.

[bar side]

Guess the shape f the British jet engines changed the way a 183 would look.  I suppose the most similar is the Saab Tunnan and the Bell X-4

 

like the use of a biro - I frequently use marker pen lids in 1/48 jet pipes & intakes

[Gorby]

Thanks Martian.

15 hours ago, Martian Hale said:

I' not sure why you were worried about the painting bit, I see nothing wrong with it.

Probably because I don't really enjoy it. I love to see models with beautifully modulated tonal variations, but I haven't got patience to do it myself. Which is odd as I'm happy to stick bits of plastic together for months on end, then when it comes to the painting, I want it over and done with as soon as possible.

[Gorby]

12 hours ago, bzn20 said:

Thanks... I was thinking pre Mig 15,Mig 9 ish nose (But that's all) and Lavotckin La15 bet that fin on the 183 didn't do much that close to the CofG Not sure but never seen one like that flying , just  design proposals. The range of development in Germany was something else, seems everything was investigated.

 

Just as well they never saw light of day.

I personally think that the Russian would have been mad not to take some design tips from the German research. I agree, the design doesn't look quite right in regard to its flight characteristics, probably Tank pushing the boundaries a bit. It's very noticeable that the Pulqui II is more elongated – more like the MiG 15 proportions. I was wondering if anyone has done any wind tunnel tests on the 183 design and then I had a look for remote control models of it. There are a couple and they seem to fly quite well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pB5CTRoKaoo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJYRjpGnigU

 

I noticed that there are a few other R/C Luft 46 videos, so that's what I'm going to be doing for the rest of the morning.

17 minutes ago, bar side said:

Guess the shape f the British jet engines changed the way a 183 would look.  I suppose the most similar is the Saab Tunnan and the Bell X-4

 

like the use of a biro - I frequently use marker pen lids in 1/48 jet pipes & intakes

Thanks Bar side.

Good point about the British engines, just checked and the Pulqui II used a Nene II.

[bar side]

Don’t forget the Yak 23 and Lavochkin La-15 interim steps to the Mig 9 / 15

[rob Lyttle]

Some great ideas modelling wise. I'm tempted to use the canopy cutting method sometime.

I have used a paper tube on occasion for intakes. Much thinner, and even squeezes and bends a little if necessary.

The planes look great!

 

Great discussion too, fellas!