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On 1/7/2018 at 2:15 PM, TeeELL said:

I wondered who would fall for it!  Shame it isn’t April 1st. Lol.

you shouldn't really, not on here anyway, fish in a barrel etc. etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been a bit lax on this build since the discussion on soldering.  the 6 pieces that require soldering to make the forward and rear parts of the sand guard have been completed and attached.  I would say that the Dragon instructions on their fitment lacks detail and it is far too difficult to try and dry fit the forward halves of the sand guard - you rather have to 'take the plunge' and hope for the best!  Sure there are etch places which should match their neighbour but it is all a bit hit and miss.

 

DSCF5315.jpg

 

This is the etch cleaned and ready for tinning.  I have since discovered a simpler way to remove the tarnish - dip the etch in VIAKAL solution and then wash it off.

 

 

DSCF5316.jpg

 

Here you can see the tiny bits of solder cut and positioned ready for the soldering iron

 

 

DSCF5317.jpg

 

A bit dirty but the solder has now tinned either side of the fold.

 

 

DSCF5318.jpg

 

All folded and soldered.

 

 

DSCF5319.jpg

 

Here the end pieces have been attached using super glue  a couple more view follow:

 

DSCF5320.jpg

 

DSCF5321.jpg

 

I used the baking soda method to set the cyno on the rear sand guards but I shall run a bead of Araldite around the inside once I have fitted the centre sections.

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Having put the sand skirts on I am now in a position to recommend the order of construction as it doesn't match the 'instructions'!  I have posted the order of construction in a separate topic, rather than have it hidden within this.

 

 

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Just catching up TeeELL, your etch work looks fantastic. Thanks for the tips I will attach mine over the weekend, hopefully.

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Ozzy, the very best of luck, especially with getting parts MA12 and MA20  as well as MA6 and MA21 to fit together.  Top tip, if you are going to solder, make sure everything is at right angles and don't spread the solder too close to the 'parts joining places'.  Oh, I used cyno the join the aformentioned pieces.

 

I mentioned using Viakal limescale remover to remove the oxidation from the PE.  I have a photo of the result.  I brushed the viakal on, left it momentarily and washed it off.  You might be able to see the effect:

 

DSCF5323.jpg

It is the piece of PE on the left side of the photo just above centre.  The result is more obvious in reality.

 

In addition I soldered the 'Sun shield' supports into place - soldered because of the way the fold is created and to ensure they remained in place..  The method I used was to tin the bar within the etched markings, add the bracket such that the 'join' in the fold was against the bar and then applied flux and the soldering iron whilst pressing the bracket down.  I has biased the tinning such that there was a little more solder at the 'join' end so ensure the solder worked into and secured that join.  It worked on all but 2 brackets so I had to use a tiny piece of solder against the loose end and allow capillary action to carry it into place.  A scrape, wet&dry and fibre pen cleaned everything up, time consuming but worthit as the brackets are not going anywhere.

 

DSCF5324.jpg

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Thanks TeeELL for the tips, nice job on the brackets I was going to use superglue but may get the soldering iron out again.

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I have had to disassemble and rework the front end of the sand skirts as the 2 pieces did not sit well together.  I would say that this is one area where an injection of ‘extra skill’ is required, trouble is I couldn’t find any but the latest bodge seems OK, as long as you don’t look too closely.  I had hoped to lay down some primer yesterday, but I realised there were a few more bits to add before hand.  I hope to fire up the airbrush on Monday.

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I think our sun shield brackets are slightly different, as well as having the post holes I've got fixing brackets on the rear. That's why I went for superglue, as I didn't want to stick one side then add heat to the rear and the front solder falls off.

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Just to prove that I have been busy, here is a photo of my tank with the first coat of 'Light mud' applied.  These are the major components, obviously, but all the other bits that required 'Light mud' have also been airbrushed.  A second coat will go on this morning.  Light mud (by Colourcoats) is a vaguely green grey colour.  The disruptive colour I am planning to use is 'Blue/black' also by Colourcoats.

 

DSCF5325.jpg  

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I would be most appreciative if any 'Shermanoholic' could give me a stear on what the return rollers would have looked like (ie steel painted and worn on the roller surface?) the Idler - similar?  My Sherman II will be 'as newly issued' to RWY in Syria, so I'll not be even dipping my toe into much weathering for this build.

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Thanks Sarg.  Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with the horn.

I am not sure I like ‘Light mud’, I might have to go for ‘Desert pink’.

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4 hours ago, TeeELL said:

I am not sure I like ‘Light mud’, I might have to go for ‘Desert pink’.

I thought it looked a bit green TBH.....A warmer colour would better match my impression (& that's all it is) of the 'typical' desert camo.

 

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@TeeELL Go with whatever you think looks right, obviously. 

 

For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure that Light Mud was the prescribed colour at the time in question, I believe using Olive Green as the disruptor, and that colour you have there looks close to my mix using Mike Starmer's Tamiya mix.

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Thanks Bull-nut for ‘light muddying’ the water :-).  It is surprising that such, relatively, recent history is still shrouded in mystery.  It is difficult that RWY seem to have had the ‘posed’ photographs taken at the same time.  I can imagine that the Colonel wanted the ‘new’   named Shermans to be recorded so I would surmise that they were freshly painted.  In my mind the desert pink and blue/black seem the ‘right colours’ but I have olive green and could apply that.

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There is no update on my Dragon Sherman because I am building its 1/72 equivalent for a ‘blitzbau’ on another site.  But I guess it counts for here as well so I will upload some photos in due course.

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Got a linky fella, I'd love to follow that.  :coolio:

On 04/02/2018 at 5:00 PM, bull-nut said:

For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure that Light Mud was the prescribed colour at the time in question, I believe using Olive Green as the disruptor, and that colour you have there looks close to my mix using Mike Starmer's Tamiya mix.

You learn something new every day.....Just about every profile I've ever seen of these seems to be a warmish sand colour with a black disruptive pattern.  :rolleyes:

 

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4 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said:

You learn something new every day.....Just about every profile I've ever seen of these seems to be a warmish sand colour with a black disruptive pattern.  :rolleyes:

 

 

Apparently, a combination of Pan-chromatic film, and yellow lens filters increases the contrast between the colours. I think if you combine that with most authors/illustrators not having easy access to period orders and paint chips, and what you get is a Best Guess arrangement, because everyone knows that deserts are yellow, right? 

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