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From Failure to Failure


06/24

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3 hours ago, Space Ranger said:

Jeez! And we Texans thought deer crossings were hazardous! But the only thing better than peaches and cream is mango ice cream.

 

Up here, we don't worry about the deer too much, but the moose are a real highway hazard.

 

 

Chris

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Phew! Thought I'd lost my passport, but after a lengthy and panicky search possibly involving some wild accusations thrown willy-nilly at loved ones, I found it in the pocket of a light jacket in the mud room. I'll be Vancouver-bound tomorrow! 

 

 

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I'm glad, or maybe sorry, to see that I'm not the only one struggling this week. My problems are plumbing related, not heating. I've had the joy of crawling under a house full of freezing water with all kind of Lovecraftian nightmares this week. Fun.

 

Turns out it was the neighbours cats...

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, dogsbody said:

 

Up here, we don't worry about the deer too much, but the moose are a real highway hazard.

 

 

Chris

Whacked one in a truck a few years back, cows on stilts that's what they are. Completely destroyed the cab of the Scania I was driving. I got away unmarked but the recovery bloke told me of a car driver who wasn't so fortunate.:fraidnot:

Reading about these silly temperatures I really would like to give our ancestors a good talking to about giving up on hibernation....

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Airbrushes are quite a personal thing but there are a few brands you never hear anything bad about. You don't need to spend a fortune on them IMHO but it does pay to pay enough to have a trained human being making sure that all the pieces actually are to tolerance and test the product fully before it's prepared for packaging and sale. The last bit is what you're foregoing with cheap airbrushes - the parts are manufactured and put together then it's boxed and sold. You might get lucky but and get a good one but it literally is more luck than judgement if it happens.

 

Being fairly averse to spending in general (ask @Duncan B) I really struggle to buy modelling "accessories" that don't actually find their way on to the finished model even more than I struggle to spend a lot on kits - however a decent airbrush is something I would advocate planning for by foregoing a few model kits, saving up a bit and taking a hit on the wallet once. A decent airbrush once owned is then "in the bag" as they say.

 

As was said earlier - you really shouldn't be paying much attention to an airbrush. You should expect to just pick it up and it works properly every time. That, I feel, is an important thing that everyone needs to take for granted if they're to feel comfortable with using it and decide to learn new tricks. A good airbrush and a consistent quality paint in it with a regulated air supply driving it will be as predictable as a thing can be.

 

A crap airbrush means we're always playing a lottery when we pull that little trigger whilst aiming at our latest creation, wondering what the hell is going to come out of the nozzle and land on the model. Learning to airbrush consistently well can be a frustrating experience and much of that is down to a general uncertainty as to where one or more problems may lie. Is it my technique? Is it the pressure? Is it may thinning ratio? Is it the paint itself? Is the airbrush malfunctioning? When you know what you're about you can cross several of those off without a second thought and home straight in on a problem, but when you're new to it all none of those are certain so it can take an awful lot of disappointments to eventually find the root of the problem.

 

It's not surprising so many just put them away in a drawer and go back to brush painting when you think about it, and that's a shame really. The right investments can eliminate several of those uncertainties before you even begin, and left with the knowledge that the hardware is all decent stuff there comes the comfort that one will quickly get the hang of it with a little practise.

 

 

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I use an H & S Evolution and a Iwata Revolution CR and they are both really nice airbrushes - my go to airbrush is my Iwata I just find it more comfortable to use than the H & S and they are both connected to my SPARMAX TC-620 Compressor - none of this kit is cheap but then I don't expect to replace it any time soon.

 

I hope that helps in your decision :D

 

 

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Thanks chaps. All food for thought. Appreciate you taking the time to share your experiences.

 

Are the interchangeable needles/nozzles worthwhile? I'm not looking to paint Italian spaghetti camo freehand (at least not yet!) but the 2 in 1 is only 20 quid more than the Iwata.

 

Anyone else (like Iain) used both makes and care to offer a preference?

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The H & S 2 in 1 is a great value airbrush, well made, easy to maintain and reliable. I prefer my Iwata purely because the trigger is in a slightly more comfortable position for my style of air brushing - if I didn't have the choice of 2 I'd be very satisfied with the H & S.

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8 hours ago, SleeperService said:

Whacked one in a truck a few years back, cows on stilts that's what they are. Completely destroyed the cab of the Scania I was driving. I got away unmarked but the recovery bloke told me of a car driver who wasn't so fortunate.:fraidnot:

Reading about these silly temperatures I really would like to give our ancestors a good talking to about giving up on hibernation....

 

We call them ditch donkeys and they can totally wreck a car!

 

 

Chris

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23 hours ago, 06/24 said:

Are the interchangeable needles/nozzles worthwhile?

They are IMHO. I use the 0.4 for general 'overall' coverings like primer and varnish coats. I now use the 0.2 for everything else using Jamie's up close and low pressure technique.

Still practising but, as Jamie says in his great post above, you should be able to get predictable results every time and trying to get a decent primer coat on a bomber with a 0.2 is no more likely than getting fine detail / variation with a 0.4. IMHO. YMMV etc.

Also, if you get on well with the idea and you're lazy like me, you can buy a cheaper Ultra and keep the 0.4 in that and keep the Evolution for 0.2 detail stuff - the needles and nozzles are interchangeable.

HTH :)

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Thank you.

 

I think I'm decided, but I need to see if I can generate some funds at the swapmeet tomorrow. 

 

Once the the rugby is finished I shall try and mask both Blenheims for a blast with the Colourcoats Dark Earth and then, for the MK I at least, we can unmask and see what sort of effect I've ended up with.

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So in between the Scotland and France games, I found out why people buy pre-cut camouflage masks or, if they have @CedB cojones or @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbiesskill (not that Ced lacks skill either), paint freehand.

 

39351215484_0896c692e9_c.jpgEndless masking! by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

Even worse, although I followed the plan that came with the decals as best I could, I'm not sure it matches my reference photos so I may not be finished yet.

 

By contrast, the Leuchars machine was easy, but I'll suffer when the green is due.

 

39163251545_c83f6ff406_c.jpgEndless masking! by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

Tamiya tape for curves is, on first impressions, pants, which is unlike the big T. Ho hum. Paint after France v. Ireland and bambi burgers.

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I'd normally mask RAF camouflage Jon. Have you ever tried Blutac for masking?

 

Just roll it into thin sausages and mask the edges with that. You can tape in between roughly and quickly thus, and the Blutac can be rolled up and reused many times.

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1 hour ago, 06/24 said:

So in between the Scotland and France games, I found out why people buy pre-cut camouflage masks or, if they have @CedB cojones or @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbiesskill (not that Ced lacks skill either), paint freehand.

 

39351215484_0896c692e9_c.jpgEndless masking! by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

Even worse, although I followed the plan that came with the decals as best I could, I'm not sure it matches my reference photos so I may not be finished yet.

 

By contrast, the Leuchars machine was easy, but I'll suffer when the green is due.

 

39163251545_c83f6ff406_c.jpgEndless masking! by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

Tamiya tape for curves is, on first impressions, pants, which is unlike the big T. Ho hum. Paint after France v. Ireland and bambi burgers.

A gyro cutter and frisket film is very good for masking camo- but failing that blue tak sausages never fails either 👍

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40064595851_70af2babbe_c.jpgBlenheims, various by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

If I could work out where to hold the Mk I, I'd being ripping the tape off already, in the style of our young colonial, who is currently feasting on the breakfast of the Canadians, and spotting seaplanes (not that I'm at all jealous :speak_cool:).

 

However, prudence forces patience, so they're in the cupboard drying.

 

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Thars some very neat masking. If it helps the blu tac method is super duper. If it helps you can roughly mask the main parts first with Tamiya tape then fill the bendy bits with tac. Also don’t give up on Tamiya tape for curves. Not great for Bendy , bendy camo but for slight bends, whisps and round bits it’s a bit of a life saver.

 

looking top drawer Any road bravo John.

 

Johnny.

Edited by The Spadgent
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Well, the thread has finally lived up to its title. The Mk I is never going to make an RFI.

 

At first the masking came off fine, and I was pleasantly surprised by the finish.

 

25193959697_c239fd9604_c.jpgBlenheim Mk1 by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

Clearly it's not perfect, but for a first serious attempt at airbrushing, I was happy.

 

Unfortunately the happiness was not to last. First, the cockpit masking also removed the paint from the frames, even though I ran the blade around the rim before pealing off. That might be down to the protective coat of clear, intended to stop paint seeping under. Not to worry, thought I, I can always retouch. However, removing the rest of the cockpit masking revealed a more serious issue:

 

40033374152_ea3d3e0241_c.jpgBlenheim Mk1 by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

40033373492_23900824e0_c.jpgBlenheim Mk1 by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

I can't tell if it's sanding dust, overspray or something else. Unfortunately there a lot of it. And it's stuck fast. On the inside.

 

To add insult to injury, the turret has fogged, badly:

 

28286558719_f534d2529d_c.jpgBlenheim Mk1 by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

40066077411_cd571e036e_c.jpgBlenheim Mk1 by jongwinnett, on Flickr

 

 

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I had a similar problem in my F-111 canopy in the GB earlier this year. It was full of little bits of plastic when I unmasked. Take a synthetic cloth likely to cause static buildup (I used my running kit) and rub it somewhere on the model that doesn't have transparencies, tapping the canopy with your fingernail occasionally. For me this caused the bits to leave the canopy and head for the bomb bay.

 

about the turret I have no idea, but Airfix gives you two...

 

You have gone too far to give up now!

 

Regards,

Adrian

 

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Yes, Adrian is right! (Hello from Canada, by the way.) We get so caught up in doing a good model we sometimes I think get discouraged by bad or even mediocre ones. This is survivable! Dust in the cockpit, fine. Greece was dusty. A cloudy rear turret, you have two! And canopy framing lifts a lot with masks, sadly. But press on regardless. This can still be a fine looking finished model.

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