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F-16 Kits/Block questions


PhantomBigStu

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Idea I've had, always seen to be threads asking about particular kits and block guide, perhaps this can become a sticky over time as a bible for the F-16 in plastic.

 

Idea was prompted earlier when I was browsing f-16's bits on hannants. Which prompted a couple of questions

(talking 1/72)

1. If I wanted to do a polish F-16 with the CFTs what kit do I start with and what bits do I need to add

2. If I was doing a block 40 (as some on the sheet I was looking at are) what kit do I start with and what bits do I need to add

3. What are my options with the Revell MLU in terms of adding parts to change the block etc

Edited by PhantomBigStu
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For F-16 A/B/C's your best starting point is the Revell model, though the B's are notoriously hard to find, the C kits contain both small and large intakes. The MLU is, I believe, simply the F-16A with the added runners for the mid life european update and not a lot else. Not having one I couldn't tell you what's on it.

 

 Hasegawa's are your best bet for the others, though I believe the Fujimi (T)F-16N's not considered to be too bad, unless it's an F-16CJ Block 50, in which case the Tamiya is the model to go for. Just make sure you get one with weapons....

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Polish Falcons are F-16C block 52+ best kit i've found in 1/72nd is the Revell, Hasegawa close behind. I've got one myself (the TurkAF display F-16C 'solo Turk') Scalemates page to use as the basis of a ANG F-16C block 52 Wild Weasel. Having built numerous F-16 kits over the years since the late 70's Matchbox/Airfix offerings to the current(ish) multi version Revell offerings. 

 

Attack Squadron do a nicely detailed drag chute fairing code ASQ72131, Frieghtdog do the CFT's as mentioned. For an interesting subject Polish F-16D's have an avionics spine similar to the Israeli 'Sufa' F-16I's and Greek block 52++ F-16D's. Kinietic produce an F-16I kit but this does need de-Sufaing to bring it back to an F-16D Block 52++ its not a bad basis. 

 

F-16 Net Polish AF page is probably the best online resource for Polish F-16 info.  

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Hi, PhantomBigStu,

 

I have made a single seat (no CFT) Polish F-16C out of the Revell F-16C, as aforementioned. Not big deal, though you have to do some surgery to adapt the long parabrake/electronics tail to the C unit (and scratchbuild the antennae). As said  above, the kit comes with both large and small intakes and both exhaust types. CFTs can be got as aftermarkets. Get proper armament, like Sniper pods and AIM-9xs.

 

Kinetic also boxes an "European" Block 52++. I have built one as the Greek example. It is a bit of a dirty assembly, but can be done.

 

I think both can be seen at M2 site.

 

Fernando

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Revell/Monogram nice F-16C and MLUs lack the heavy duty landing gear and bulged main landing gear doors that came out with the late blocks (blk 40 on).

For Hasegawa, an early F-16C (or any of the NAVY aggressors, oops "adversary") does not provide the Large mouth intake that is needed for any GE powered F-16 from late block 30 on.

For a late model C, you have to use the F-16CJ from Hasegawa, and mix in some of the correct tails from Revell's MLU.

For a twin seater, you can use Kinetic's right off the box.

BTW, I thought Poland had Blk.52s, powered by the PW engine.

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5 hours ago, Robertone139 said:

Revell/Monogram nice F-16C and MLUs lack the heavy duty landing gear and bulged main landing gear doors that came out with the late blocks (blk 40 on).

For Hasegawa, an early F-16C (or any of the NAVY aggressors, oops "adversary") does not provide the Large mouth intake that is needed for any GE powered F-16 from late block 30 on.

For a late model C, you have to use the F-16CJ from Hasegawa, and mix in some of the correct tails from Revell's MLU.

 

Also, all Hasegawa F-16 kits feature the early A-style gun cooling vents. The RoG has inserts for both late and early variations.

 

Cheers,

 

Andre

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On 5/1/2018 at 11:46 PM, Robertone139 said:

Revell/Monogram nice F-16C and MLUs lack the heavy duty landing gear and bulged main landing gear doors that came out with the late blocks (blk 40 on).

For Hasegawa, an early F-16C (or any of the NAVY aggressors, oops "adversary") does not provide the Large mouth intake that is needed for any GE powered F-16 from late block 30 on.

For a late model C, you have to use the F-16CJ from Hasegawa, and mix in some of the correct tails from Revell's MLU.

For a twin seater, you can use Kinetic's right off the box.

BTW, I thought Poland had Blk.52s, powered by the PW engine.

Hi, Robertone139,

 

Yes your are right: Revell otherwise very nice C  lacks the bulged main gear doors. But so does the Hasegawa CJ, AFAIK.  But you can outsource them. Revell C kit actually makes a wonderful AM, as all the A Plus parts are there.

 

You are also right regarding the Polish AF: their F-16s are Blk.52+, with PW engines. That's how Kinetic managed to pull Israeli, Greek and Polish kits out of the same basic mould!

 

Fernando

Edited by Fernando
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11 minutes ago, Fernando said:

Yes your are right: Revell otherwise very nice C  lacks the bulged main gear doors. But so does the Hasegawa CJ, AFAIK.  But you can outsource them.

 

Fernando

Have to disagree, Fernando.  The Hasegawa CJ and DJ boxings both include bulged MLG doors

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17 hours ago, Vultures1 said:

Have to disagree, Fernando.  The Hasegawa CJ and DJ boxings both include bulged MLG doors

 

And the Hasegawa doors do not fit the RoG kit.

 

Cheers,

 

Andre

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1 minute ago, charlie_c67 said:

Attack Squadron do the requisite replacement doors for later models.

Attack Squadron got out of the resin game and now only produce (quite nice) injection-molded kits.

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Having gone on a recent F-16 spree, this is what I can say:

 

The Block 40/42 is the HARDEST in 1/72 to model. Only the Academy kit can do one straight out of the box, and that's basically because it's the only one that includes the 40/42-specific holographic HUD. There's just one problem: it's the most inaccurate Viper kit in 1/72. The nose is too straight and the wide mouth intake on the Bk 40 is laughably bad: it looks like the grin of the Cheshire Cat. On the plus side, the narrow intake on the Bk 42 is much better even if a bit small. Also, surface detail is phenomenal (much better than the plain-ish Revell and Hasegawa) as is the fit. Only other downside is lack of an open canopy option but this can be arranged with only moderate difficulty.

 

Note that there are 4 Academy boxings and each of them can only do either a Bk 40/50 or a Bk 42/52 - only one set of intakes is included, as opposed to Revell and Hasegawa which include both. These are:

- Basic "CG/CJ" kit: Bk 40/50

- "Air National Guard" kit: 42/52

- "Thunderbirds" kit: 42/52

- "ROKAF" KF-16: 42/52 (*this kit does not include Sniper/Litening pods, just Lantirns)

 

Note that blocks 40/42 had reinforcement plates on the fuselage. None of the kits include these as photo-etch but there are some good vinyl ones you can find (Daco does a 3x for a tenner). Worth noting that not all aircraft had all plates: you need to cross check with references. This is also the case for the MLUs!

 

Overwhelmed? You should :P

 

All in all, I think the best possible Bk 40 in 1/72 scale is to use the Tamiya Bk 50, steal a holographic HUD from the Academy 42/52 kit and get some vinyl reinforcement plates. You're sorted.

 

You can then use the Academy kit for a Bk 52... or if you got the Thunderbirds boxings, resell it (they're 52s and so the holographic HUD is surplus).

 

 

Edited by Phantome
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On 12/31/2017 at 5:05 PM, charlie_c67 said:

For F-16 A/B/C's your best starting point is the Revell model, though the B's are notoriously hard to find, the C kits contain both small and large intakes. The MLU is, I believe, simply the F-16A with the added runners for the mid life european update and not a lot else. Not having one I couldn't tell you what's on it.

 

You're pretty much correct. Literally the only change is is an addition to one of the two main sprues with the MLU cockpit, gun piece, 2x AMRAAMs, and LAU-128 launchers (wingtip and underwing). Still no air-to-ground weapons and no pods. You're pretty much stuck doing the MLU version or the F-16A.

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  • 4 months later...
8 hours ago, PhantomBigStu said:

Well just won myself this kit https://modelingmadness.com/scott/mod/brakeetpreview.htm so now looking to do a f-16d with CFTs, what aside from the cfts and decals will I need to do polish or Hellenic F-16d or even a passable UAE F

 

A Greek Peace Xenia III or IV Block 52 F-16D is possible - a UAE Block 60 is not an OOTB option.

 

Cheers,

 

Andre

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11 minutes ago, Hook said:

 

A Greek Peace Xenia III or IV Block 52 F-16D is possible - a UAE Block 60 is not an OOTB option.

 

Cheers,

 

Andre

Exellent, been the price of all the components that has stopped me, knowing I only need to buy decals and cfts when the time comes is brilliant news 

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Whelp the differences between Hasegawa catalogue boxing label E-34 F-16I and limited edition boxing label 01930 F-16F are just two panels with some gibberish vents scribed on it to be glued in the dorsal spine.If you want to see panel layout I do have both and will happily upload a picture

 

Also remember that you need both pylons and fuel tanks from Hasegawa F-2 cause some nations are using both standard and 600 gal drop tanks

 

Fact is that Hasegawa is as per usual selling their standard F-16A/B masked as an upgraded aircraft and Revell is kinda doing the same as the panel lines are for an A, if only Tamiya was so smart to make an A, a generic 30/40 with P&W engines and a freaking two-seater the after-market companies will probably have a field day and fill all the missing holes left by Revell and Hasegawa

 

Luigi

Edited by Silverkite
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