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Bull-nuts Operation Husky M4A1


bull-nut

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Welcome all, after much puzzling over my choice of subject for this GB, I'll be attempting a representation of this:

 

ndOe6yR.jpg

 

For which I have acquired this:

 

y76CxGa.jpg

 

And as I have a bunch of resin en-route from Friendship Models for an Alamein Sherman, I'll be fabricating the lower hull from scratch, using the kit hull as a guide.

 

More this afternoon, when I have something more interesting to show off. I hope ;).

Edited by bull-nut
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Sorry @Ozzy, no big dio plans for this one, not that include water at any rate. Possibly a section of beach, but that will be about it I think.

 

I said I'd have something more interesting to show this afternoon, and here it is. I took a whole bunch of measurements from the kit hull tub, and cut the relevant shapes from some 3/4mm plasticard.

EEHLBYv.jpg

 

Glued together and added some internal stiffeners, along with front and back plates and once set, added the front transmission housing. The result is shown here with the kit part for comparison.

dndSLsW.jpg

 

Then the complicated part. The Tamiya 1/48 Sherman range all have open sponson bottoms, so I raided my reference collection. Specifically:

sK22f9V.jpg

 

A few modifications to the pattern provided by Mr Zaloga gave me this:

RlOlFG9.jpg

 

And because I couldn't resist, I combined the two sections together, which means that right now I have this looking at me from the table:

k1Yoc3k.jpg

 

Need to fill the gaps next, and make up the final drives, then its on to the detailing/riveting.

Edited by bull-nut
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@fatfingers Thanks!

 

@Sgt.Squarehead I think so too, though not so improvised, the trunking was developed at 5AITC.

Steve Zaloga builds a similar model in the book I showed, but in 1/35, and I was very taken by the OD/Yellow Earth scheme.

 

Minor update, while dry fitting the rear hull plate from the kit, I realised that I'd shaped and fitted the sponson plate backwards, cue some very delicate knife work to remove the plastic from behind the engine bay.

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14 minutes ago, bull-nut said:

I think so too, though not so improvised, the trunking was developed at 5AITC.

Steve Zaloga builds a similar model in the book I showed, but in 1/35, and I was very taken by the OD/Yellow Earth scheme.

So those are 'official-issue' oil-drums that they've welded together at the top?  :o

 

Improvisation for the win!  :D

 

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5 minutes ago, Sgt.Squarehead said:

Improvisation for the win!  :D

 

A little birdie tells me that the correct term is Field Expedient Solution. I guess it sounds more professional! :D

Edited by bull-nut
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1 hour ago, Bullbasket said:

Impressive job on the lower hull scratchbuild. Far better than that cast one in the kit.

 

John.

Thanks John, though I'm not sure its better than the kit part except for the sponson bottoms. It will do the trick though, make mounting the bogies easier, and by the time the running gear is on, not much will be visible anyway. Anything I don't like the look of can be covered in wet sand/mud or hidden behind a convenient bush ;)

 

On a related note, I've started building up the kit rear hull plate, I was going to scratch build it, but there are so many layers to the part, that I think it'll be easier to cast.

 

Also, would anyone object to me including my M4A1DV build in this tread? The intention is to build Cricklade of the RWY, 9 Arm Bd,  but this is causing me some confusion. I've seen period images of two tanks bearing the name Cricklade, one an M4A1DV, while the other appears to be either an M4 or M4A2 (currently edging towards the later). Both images have been presented as Syria and El Alamein in different places, and since the base colour for the two regions may have been different, Light Stone or Desert  Pink? 

 

I suspect that the M4A2 is a later replacement. and would therefore have the later Desert Pink colour with USOD disrupter,  while the 'A1DV could be in either with SCC14 Black over.

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Sorry for the double post, but it seemed justified.

Todays progress so far, Left - Right, Top - Bottom.

  • Sponson gaps shimmed and filled with Milliput
  • Ancillary parts tacked down to plasticard (C/wise from upper left:  rear hull plate, radiator? cover, final drives, hull hatches, M34 gun mount, Turret hatch).
  • Original parts surrounded with Mould box made from sons Lego bricks stuck down with PVA glue.
  • "Composimold" poured and hardening.

 

XQslGLl.jpg

 

It's only a simple one sided mould, but that's all I need for this, and I cant use "Composimold" for two piece moulds anyway.

 

So while all that sets up, I'm of to run some errands, further updates later. This evenings plan; demould and cast parts in resin, and start adding the surface details to the hull. I may even make a start on the turret.

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1 hour ago, bull-nut said:

Thanks John, though I'm not sure its better than the kit part except for the sponson bottoms. It will do the trick though, make mounting the bogies easier, and by the time the running gear is on, not much will be visible anyway. Anything I don't like the look of can be covered in wet sand/mud or hidden behind a convenient bush ;)

 

On a related note, I've started building up the kit rear hull plate, I was going to scratch build it, but there are so many layers to the part, that I think it'll be easier to cast.

 

Also, would anyone object to me including my M4A1DV build in this tread? The intention is to build Cricklade of the RWY, 9 Arm Bd,  but this is causing me some confusion. I've seen period images of two tanks bearing the name Cricklade, one an M4A1DV, while the other appears to be either an M4 or M4A2 (currently edging towards the later). Both images have been presented as Syria and El Alamein in different places, and since the base colour for the two regions may have been different, Light Stone or Desert  Pink? 

 

I suspect that the M4A2 is a later replacement. and would therefore have the later Desert Pink colour with USOD disrupter,  while the 'A1DV could be in either with SCC14 Black over.

I've just had a look myself, if the earlier tank had been hit the A2 would normally have a number next to it. The crew may have just been given an upgrade, and kept the same name. builds are normally 1 per thread, This allows people to see your different builds in all there splendour.

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@Ozzy No problem, I'll go start another thread for the DV model, thanks.

 

@PlaStix Thanks for the complement! Ask and you shall receive :)

 

Well the sum total of last nights work was to pour the resin for the ancillary parts, and rough out the base of the wadding trunk, no pics of the resin yet, because in a fit of stupidity, I forgot to tint before I poured, so all I have is a cluster of transparent pieces at the moment. Once they are fully cured in a few days, I'll stick some primer on them so that they actually look like something in photos. In the mean time, look what showed up in the mail this morning:

 

AMQWzht.jpg

Top half is two sets of T51 Rubber block tracks with sprockets from Gaso-line

The bottom half is the wading trunk base after drying overnight and trimming off the excess plasticard.

 

Next up, detail/rivet the lower hull and start on the bogies

Edited by bull-nut
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Yesterdays progress; Bogie mounting plates cut from .25mm plasticard and glued to hull sides. lower hull riveted both sides (they are overscale and need evening up, but I'm going for representative here, so I won't worry about the size). Suspension components removed from the sprue and the backs of all 12 road wheels and 2 idlers filled with milliput.

 

pGW0Svi.jpg

 

By the way, if anyone is interested, the plans for the wading trunks can be found in the same book by Mr Steve Zaloga as the sponson plate, just resize for your preferred scale.

 

Work will likely slow down now that the family is back from their New Year trip to the Lakes.

Edited by bull-nut
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Thanks guys, you can thank Mr Zaloga for the idea again, I seem to be pilfering a lot of his techniques on this build.

 

Not picture worthy, but I have managed to get the bogies built, though I'm considering picking up another Tamiya M4/A1 for the spoked wheels on this build, rather than the stamped versions that I think are too late for Husky? My references are a bit thin in that area.

 

On an slightly related topic. does anyone know what's happening with Friendship Models? I've still not received my Lightfoot parts, and all attempts at contacting them have gone unanswered.

 

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So rather than another A1, I have an Achilles IIC on the way from a well known auction site ,since it uses the same wheel sprue as the M4A1 I can rob the spoked wheels from there, or jus use the entire bogie assembly and put the pressed wheels I have built up above onto the Achilles, since I have been unable to find any period pics of a Op' Husky Sherman with the pressed/stamped units.

 

On a positive note, the castings are cured enough to glue to the upper hull, and I've opted to use the kit turret on this build after all. So I build it up with the exception of the rotor shield, that will be made from some plastic tubing, and covered in waterproofing, leaving me the kit shield for the Lightfoot build. Turret hatches opened for a TC to stand in, but I need to pick up some triangular section strip tomorrow to fashion the periscopes from, since I forgot it when I went into my FLMS yesterday.

 

CNms4lz.jpg

 

I also filled the hollow transmission casing with miliput, and pushed some plastic rod into to make depressions before it cured, this will allow me to use lengths of brass rod for the axles, with the corresponding strength increase. I could likely get away with plastic, since the tracks are LnL, not vinyl, but better safe than sorry.

 

Tonights job is to make up a jig, so that I can bend consistent periscope brush guards from brass wire.

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On ‎14‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 14:28, bull-nut said:

Tonights job is to make up a jig, so that I can bend consistent periscope brush guards from brass wire.

This I must see.

 

John.

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