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M4A3, CALLIOPE, 1/35


Hewy

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8 hours ago, wimbledon99 said:

Ditto. It looks excellent!! :like:

Thanks nigel, done a bit more and the etch part is more or less complete, a couple of bits I'm  going to leave as long as possible to  save me knocking them off, bearing in mind that this was an etch set for the tamiya m4 it fits pretty well, i had to cut the front mudgaurds a bit and the sand skirt attatchment etch strips had to be extended about 4mm which i did with spare pe, the t 54e tracks and duck bills have arrived and I'll make a start on these tonight,say a little  prayer  for me, 

Cheers, regards 

Glynn

 

s3ZKdMi.jpg

MeENEZZ.jpg

 

aY6GoUY.jpg

 

 

mvv4lIF.jpg

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1 hour ago, Hewy said:

the t 54e tracks and duck bills have arrived and I'll make a start on these tonight,say a little  prayer  for me, 

Good luck with that!! I take it that box on the back is peculiar to a Calliope? I've never seen one before, but to be honest, I've never seen a rear view photo of a Calliope. Nice bit of "scratching".

 

John.

 

Edit.

I've just seen your post for the 12th Jan, nice photo. Certainly a new one on me. Copied and filed away.

Edited by Bullbasket
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Stunning build Glynn. Beautiful photo-etch work. How do you do it?

I am extremely jealous of people who can apply PE that tiny.

 

I may replace the engine cover handles on mine,, using wire. The advantage being that I can keep the wire long, bend to shape and insert through holes drilled in the deck. It doesn't matter if the 'legs' of the handle are 1cm long as they'll be inside. To play it safe, I'll probably leave them 4cm long so I don't lose them!;)

 

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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35 minutes ago, Badder said:

Stunning build Glynn. Beautiful photo-etch work. How do you do it?

I am extremely jealous of people who can apply PE that tiny.

 

I may replace the engine cover handles on mine,, using wire. The advantage being that I can keep the wire long, bend to shape and insert through holes drilled in the deck. It doesn't matter if the 'legs' of the handle are 1cm long as they'll be inside. To play it safe, I'll probably leave them 4cm long so I don't lose them!;)

 

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 Cheers badder, magnifying lamp, and spectacles, and patience, although mrs hewy says I'm bereft of patience, Believe it or not badder the 4cm long ones are not that far off, i had at least 5 ping off to god knows where, thats when i made mine longer, and easier to handle, we live and learn  eh, I've nearly got one full run of bronco tracks together, although i still have the duck bills to attach, oh yeh and the lugs, horn, things, john was right,  fiddly is not the word, badder don't you get these for crying out loud, your dexterity with your fingers wouldnt cope, i'll post up tommorrow just what's involved with making a 5 track length, :drunk: also between pulling whats left of my hair out I've  primed the sherman, I'll call it,  an under coat of many colours.  more tommorrow 

Glynn 

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@Hewy I saw the tracks and duck bills and the number of parts involved and thought rather you than me!

I have a Tiger I and II in the stash and they are the only kits I'd consider for single link tracks. Dead simple compared to yours!

 

Thanks for mentioning the magnifying lamp. It's something I really need and had put on my 'must get' list, but totally forgot about! I think I will invest in one next pay day.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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After a mind boggling session on the tracks, ( i was warned) I've yet to be beaten, another 3 or 4 days, i may have the best of them, one thing i will say about  them, they are very flexible, i know they're advertised as working tracks,  but the movement really is easy, loose,  and gives quite a bit of side to side flexibility,  ( you do have to be very careful with the glue)  and very very fiddly to build ,  so in between the one side of the tracks, to stave off madness, I've primed the tank, and even i don't know how this is going to turn out, but I've tried out a different take on the basic pre shade and used some colours, buff, black, cockpit green, yellow green, white, hull red, the plan is to give it a very diluted coat of od and take it from there , if it goes belly up I'll just blast it with unthinned od and  job done:tmi: cheers 

 

The tracks, this is whats needed to get just 5 links together, the instructions say you need a run of 83, the start of the next run there underneath the bits

 

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The  under coat of many colours 

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20 minutes ago, wimbledon99 said:

The etch work is fantastic Glynn and is adding even more character to the build. Roll on the paint (though not literally ;) ). That said, will almost be a shame to cover it all up!

Cheers,  etch isn't my favourite part, though i do think a model with a lot on looks great unpainted, im still going to build that "50 cal" just to keep me sane in between the tracks

Glynn 

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1 hour ago, Hewy said:

M5pbMVV.jpg

 

I'm loving this Glynn!

 

I did something similar, though more extreme with a Quad Tractor and 25pdr. I used sand and red, the sand sprayed on the model vertically downward and the red vertically upward - the intention being that the sand effected direct downward sunlight, the red the shadows below and the blend of red/sand (flesh tones) on the vertical surfaces. ambient light.  It might surprise a lot of people to hear that the Quad was European Theatre and so everything was then over-sprayed with layers of thinned dark green.

 

I got the idea from reading the painting techniques of Boris Vallejo when he said he used green as an undercoat for flesh tones and I thought why not try the opposite?

 

It did look odd at first, but after a few sprays with green the model was looking fantastic, the green having a faded look with the sand undercoat, a more bronzy tinge on the vertical surfaces and a rusty/bronze tinge in the shadows

Unfortunately I then went a bit too far with the green, and lost some of that 'character'. It's definitely something I will try again with dark green vehicles, but not with my current Sherman as it's going to be white-washed.

 

So I'd say go really careful with the OD (or whatever you are using) Don't go mad with the over-sprays, build them up slowly, letting each coat dry fully, and try not to lose those underlying colours, because so often we do and it's all been a waste of time.

Get it right though, and that's going to turn out a real beauty!

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

 

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I like the way you've done the coloured pre-shade Glynn. As an extension to that, you could add some darker tones with a sponge, in the same manner you'd use for paint chipping, but as part of the pre-shade. It adds a little more fine detail under the final paint layer. I find that regular airbrush pre-shading can sometimes look a bit 'soft focus' when used on its own.

 

Andy:cat:

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6 hours ago, AndyRM101 said:

I like the way you've done the coloured pre-shade Glynn. As an extension to that, you could add some darker tones with a sponge, in the same manner you'd use for paint chipping, but as part of the pre-shade. It adds a little more fine detail under the final paint layer. I find that regular airbrush pre-shading can sometimes look a bit 'soft focus' when used on its own.

 

Andy:cat:

That sounds like a good idea, i shall  have a go at that andy thanks

Glynn 

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58 minutes ago, Bullbasket said:

What with the tracks and the .50 cal. you'll probably hear a knock on the door from the men in white coats!:worry:

It's coming on a treat though.

 

John.

Cheers john, a well needed mojo boost, :suicide:, infernal tracks im on the guide horns as we speak, why, why, didn't i just pay a bit more for the pandas:drunk:, I've promised myself as soon as the tracks are done I'm going to start a new kit, unless like you say the men in white coats come for me first

Glynn 

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30 minutes ago, Hewy said:

unless like you say the men in white coats come for me first

Glynn 

I can hear the faint strains of Napoleon XlV......"They're coming to take me away haha".

 

John.

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1 minute ago, PlaStix said:

Really looking forward to see what the result is when you put the paint on over this. :popcorn:

Kind regards,

Stix

Your not the only one stix:P I'll take andys advice and sponge on some black green, as soon as my head clears from trackparts, cheers stix

Glynn 

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1 hour ago, Bullbasket said:

I can hear the faint strains of Napoleon XlV......"They're coming to take me away haha".

 

John.

John if i can quiz you for a moment, i think I've  made an error on the bogeys, I've  put the straight, flat top ones on from the kit not the upswept ones, I've boobed haven't i

Glynn 

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On 22/01/2018 at 23:46, Badder said:

I got the idea from reading the painting techniques of Boris Vallejo when he said he used green as an undercoat for flesh tones and I thought why not try the opposite?

Michalangelo (he of the Sistine Chapel) did much the same, Terre Vert (or whatever the Italians called it) under flesh, and earth reds and browns under most everything else. 

@Hewy, I think I might pinch your developed approach for my own build ...

 

p.s. I just double checked your tracks - you have duck bills there - oww!  I thought my own would take time, but ...

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47 minutes ago, Robert Stuart said:

Michalangelo (he of the Sistine Chapel) did much the same, Terre Vert (or whatever the Italians called it) under flesh, and earth reds and browns under most everything else. 

@Hewy, I think I might pinch your developed approach for my own build ...

 

p.s. I just double checked your tracks - you have duck bills there - oww!  I thought my own would take time, but ...

Sucker for punishment or what? I never knew about terre vert, and pinch away robert,  i look forward to seeing how your version turns out too,  between us we might get somewhere near:P

Glynn 

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