Badder Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 7 hours ago, philp said: This is looking fun. As to the muzzle brake, I don't think the tank in the picture has the muzzle brake. It looks more like the 76mm gun without a brake. I had only seen the older M4A3 76mm with that set up until I found the picture above. Phil Thanks Phil, Yeah, it was fairly clear that the featured Sherman lacked the large muzzle brake. I think there were all kinds of variants by then, some 'authorised' some not. I expect one could find all kinds of 'pick and mix' Shermans given enough time. Rearguards Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 I'm still getting the plasticard glacis and armour plate into shape. I've had several attempts at getting things as close to the photo as possible. So, each time I cut the plates out I'm holding the assembly in front of the photo, closing one eye and twisting and tilting the assembly to match the background photo. Then I'm filing the plates to get them closer to the original. I'm nearly there with the current plate assembly. I just need to file the bottom edge of the glacis so that it drops down a bit lower, enveloping a bit more of the uppermost armour plate. It's not visible in the photos, but I suspect the top edge of the glacis was chamfered to fit flush with the top 'deck' where the crew hatches are. So, I should have the 'assembly' shaped correctly this afternoon. I will then think about the various mountings and how I'm going to model them. Quite possibly, I'm going to bite the bullet, cut out the travel lock mounts and embed them in the plasticard glacis. It's a tight fit though. The kit's left mount is very close to the embrasure around the MG and will require very careful cutting with a very sharp scalpel. TFL Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 I AM HAVING A MARE. I tried to cut the travel lock mountings out, a job made more difficult by the fact that there's a 'brace' right behind them making the plastic here double thickness. My scalpel was having trouble cutting through, so I thought I'd make things a bit easier by heating the blade over a flame. Well, that did help, but after the final cuts were made the removed section bowed... probably with the heat... and as I was trying to straighten it out it pinged out of my pathetic nerve-damaged fingers and landed who knows where. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 With regards to the 76mm gun, if the tank in the photo is the one you're doing, then it has the M1A1C gun. It was threaded to accept at a later date, the muzzle brake, but in the meantime, it was fitted with a thread protector. John. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 18 minutes ago, Bullbasket said: With regards to the 76mm gun, if the tank in the photo is the one you're doing, then it has the M1A1C gun. It was threaded to accept at a later date, the muzzle brake, but in the meantime, it was fitted with a thread protector. John. Thanks for that John. That's an interesting fact I was not aware of. I'm not doing a precise copy of the tank shown, but one loosely based on it, so I'm keeping the muzzle brake. Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) I've been messing about trying to scratch those travel lock mountings, and for the moment I've given up. My latest idea is to use a combination of plasticard or sprue, and some suitable photo-etch - if I can find some parts that might be adapted for that use. In the meantime, I've finally got the glacis plate cut to size and shape and went ahead and fixed it in place. Probably it would have been better to fix all the details to it first, but that would have meant having to make those damned mountings, and I'd rather crack on with the build and worry about the glacis details later. So here's the glacis plate fixed in place. You might notice that I've added tiny weld beads on the edges of the plate. I'm not sure if this is accurate - it's hard to make out but there's something that might be a weld bead top left of the glacis in one of the photos. I use a bit of stretched sprue and soaked it in extra thin poly before scoring with the point of a scalpel. I've also modelled the 'cut' marks around the edges of the plate, again, by scoring with a scalpel. With this done, I'm going to move on to the lower hull and getting the running gear completed. TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 You could avoid the travel lock and its headache by placing stowage over the area on the glacis. It was quite common to cover the glacis with extra gear, sandbags, and Track links. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 2 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: You could avoid the travel lock and its headache by placing stowage over the area on the glacis. It was quite common to cover the glacis with extra gear, sandbags, and Track links. Hi CFFU, I've been looking at the photo since it was supplied and saw how that kit bag and what I presume is an empty kit bag or tarp have been positioned. I think the latter is placed there to stop the damned thing from clanging on he glacis when the tank rides over rough ground or obstacles. I had the idea of 'hiding' the mounts by wrapping a tarp around the travel lock somehow, but that's the easy way out! As for piling stowage on the front, I don't think that's something that was likely to have been done, given that the added armour plates are a featureless slope. The Sherman's I've seen 'loaded up' with stowage on the front all had that little shelf across the diff cover. I suppose I COULD add a shelf, but I like the expanse of bare armour plate, which gives me the opportunity to maybe add some 'graffiti' or piece of artwork! Rearguards, Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 I like the Artwork idea 👍 ... ”kilroy was here” was always a popular cartoon to draw on armor and aircraft. And of course “Sad Sack” comic strip. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) Why do I prefer Tigers? Because of the wheels, or rather, the fact that you can't really see the inner ones and don't have to be so finicky about seam lines! I've just spent an hour cleaning up 12 outer road wheels. The seam lines weren't bad, but they had to be removed. There are also seem lines on the sticky-up bits, (see photo below) and along with the wheels these are the first I've felt I've got to remove. Otherwise, the kit is very clean. Now for the inner wheels.... pfffft! And then the 2-part return rollers... And then the intermediate rollers.... TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Nice going Badder, your front plate looks very nice if you need a spare travel lock and hinges I've got a spare from my dragon kit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 5 hours ago, Ozzy said: Nice going Badder, your front plate looks very nice if you need a spare travel lock and hinges I've got a spare from my dragon kit. Thanks Ozzy, on both counts. I will give it a few more goes on the travel lock mounts. I have some spare PE bits that might do the job, but failing that I will definitely take you up on the kind offer as I will be progressing quite rapidly from now on. Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) The road wheels, idler wheels, drive sprockets, and return rollers are all cleaned up and ready for painting. Tomor Later today I will clean up the intermediate rollers and get them ready as well. BTW, I never bother with an undercoat because I always soak the sprues in detergent and I think that is enough. I've never had any problems by skipping the undercoat. I will then move on to painting the lower hull. I'll be going for an mud and snow finish, and I'll be giving that the full beans. I will 'weather' the wheels and suspension assemblies separately, only fixing everything together when the tracks are ready. In between cleaning up the wheels I fixed the engine grills in place, and added a couple of bits to the turret. There's quite a bit of PE for the turret. The kit parts aren't bad TBH, but if my fingers work I will use the PE. TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) I was looking at the PE for this kit, and in particular the chains for the handles on the fuel/water/oil caps. The PE instructions don't show how the chains are fixed at the 'loose' end so I thought I'd search the web for real photos. However, I came across a truly MENTAL build instead. A 1/6th, YES, 1/6th Sherman M4A4 KIT, yes, KIT, in aluminium and steel. I could show the finished article, but one may as well look at a real Sherman. Anyway, here's one of the chains on a filler cap. The PE instructions incorrectly show the chain attached to the far end of the green part of the 'bolt', not at the 'bend' as seen below. So that's handy to know. The guy who built this had a fully equipped workshop with a lathe and milling machine and even 'scratch-built' parts in aluminium. Gawd knows how much this kit cost! Mad. Edited January 7, 2018 by Badder 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Nice find Badder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) Potty!!!!! I was all primed, metaphorically speaking, to get the wheels sprayed today, but had something to eat, took my insulin and immediately went out like a light. That's a whole afternoon lost! I had managed to get some work done previously though - the most 'exciting' thing being that I had to scratch a small detail in plasticard, replacing a part which will one day find itself in a landfill site, courtesy of Mr James Dyson and his whirly-sucky machine. I guess now I may as well tackle that tiny 1x2mm bit o PE that fits on the rear towing bracket. That'll be the completion of the lower hull (excepting for the running gear of course) TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 The tamyia m4 etch set has pe chains in it badder, i bought it for my academy kit, yours is coming along nicely after the plaster glacis hiccup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Hewy said: The tamyia m4 etch set has pe chains in it badder, i bought it for my academy kit, yours is coming along nicely after the plaster glacis hiccup Thanks Hewy, Though I'm not sure why you're telling me that. I'm using the Eduard PE set for the 'older' Tamiya Easy Eight. There's just a few things extra on Eduard's newer PE set for this kit, and not really worth the extra money. As for the chains, they won't be a problem now I know how they are fitted in real life. Rearguards, Badder Edited January 7, 2018 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Great work with the glacis armour. Coming along very nicely. Regards, Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 This is turning into a bit of a struggle Badder, but you seem to be on the winning side. Pleased that you have the glacis done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 2 hours ago, Robert Stuart said: This is turning into a bit of a struggle Badder, but you seem to be on the winning side. Pleased that you have the glacis done Hi Robert, I wouldn't call the build a struggle, it's staying awake that's the struggle! Suffering from two auto-immune diseases will do that to me at times! I've got a few more bits and pieces added to the turret and rear deck and have all the return rollers assembled and cleaned up ready for painting (with all the other wheels) That WILL commence tomorrow. Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Amongst the work I mentioned in the last post, I also added the two little plates that fit on the inside edge of the front fenders. These fit flush with the transmission cover and extend to the tip of the inner edge of the fenders. But looking at it, there are extra plates which have been 'tacked' on both sides of the transmission cover, forward of the 'fender plates'. These were certainly added to prevent debris getting in behind the drive sprockets as a result of the overhanging armour plate. That plate must have acted a bit like a snow plough as it travelled through long grass, undergrowth, barbed wire, etc. So, I will have to scratch these plates. They look pretty flimsy, so I will be using something suitably thin, either PE, or plasticard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 On 31/12/2017 at 1:56 PM, Badder said: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 If you did want to model the muzzle brake as seen in the image it would be simple enough to trim back, file down and drill out the part you have. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: If you did want to model the muzzle brake as seen in the image it would be simple enough to trim back, file down and drill out the part you have. It is an option Sarge, I will wait and see what the muzzle brake looks like once it's painted up. As I said earlier, I had to take it apart after gluing and made a bit of a mess of it. I've cleaned it up, but as we all know the proof of the pudding is in the painting! If it's really bad I may do as you suggest. Would the end of the barrel have the thread on it to accept the later muzzle brake though? Rearguards, Badder Edited January 8, 2018 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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