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"Are 'Friends' Electric?" The English Electric Lightning F.1 by Airfix 1/48


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More done just before we take the dog on a walk up wychbury.

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tail fins tidied up.

wings look about right now at this angle.

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the gap at the root had to be filled. I used PPP.

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then a damp cotton bud and voila.

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The dashboard type bit got added with the new view finder radar thing.

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looks ok in there now.

all the black bits got a gloss coat so I can weather later. This had to dry so I added a few more pipes to the wells and brake lines and mounting joints to the legs.

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heres a dry fit with the wheel.

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busy enough for me. Just the other side to do now. Right walk time.:dog: see you lot later. Shut the door on your way out. Take care y’all and hope you’re having a break from the food and booze with a bit of plastic fantastic.

 

Johnny.

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1 hour ago, The Spadgent said:

 

Gosh, that's looking rather good!

How are you finding the putty? I've tried Milliput (way too time consuming and messy) and Revell Plasto (works fine for most purposes but it's definitely not for precision work). So i've been looking at replacements such as Vallejo's putty and now PPP. Can it be sanded when it's dry? What's the drying time like?

 

Best wishes,

Sam

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That looks excellent Johnny, just enough wheel leg detail to make it look right without risking overscale 'too much-ness'

 

Sam, PPP and Vallejo putty have their place in our armouries but they have weaknesses too

 

I usually wet/damp sand with the kind of four surfaces sanding sticks you get at shows or Poundland

 

Slightly abrasive but damp removes lots of PPP and rubs down to the surface in seconds, no sweat work involved but as you see with Johnny's wing root there is usually some residue in the panel line grooves to whisk out

 

I dampen a fingernail and run it along the grooves to lift it off then finish with a damp tissue

The tissue lifts off the white residue easily

 

Johnny I do love that instrument panel, your additions to the coaming make it come to life, brilliant stuff - enjoy the walk

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Rob, PPP means (QUIET at the back!)

Perfect Plastic Putty. It's acrylic, can be applied over a gap,

then the surplus wiped away with a cotton bud.

 

HTH

Paul

 

P.S. PPP=PPP means something ENTIRELY different!!

Edited by PhoenixII
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2 hours ago, cathasatail said:

Gosh, that's looking rather good!

How are you finding the putty? I've tried Milliput (way too time consuming and messy) and Revell Plasto (works fine for most purposes but it's definitely not for precision work). So i've been looking at replacements such as Vallejo's putty and now PPP. Can it be sanded when it's dry? What's the drying time like?

 

Best wishes,

Sam

Thanks. I have tried all of those and I think for this PPP pips plasto to the post. Milliput is good but as you said fiddly. PPP is as easy to use as Plasto but dries quite quickly, 20, 30 mins and can be sanded or scraped, a bit like milliput but softer. I really like it. Seems to wipe away with water too.

Hope that helps.

 

John.

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1 hour ago, perdu said:

That looks excellent Johnny, just enough wheel leg detail to make it look right without risking overscale 'too much-ness'

Thank you sir. I think that is about as much as I want to do to them so I’m glad they look ok. :lol:

 

jont

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Just spent a very pleasant hour catching up from the start Johnny, more of your marvellous modelling occuring again - that bang seat is flipping brilliant! I'm ashamed to say I bought Quickboost seats for my two stashed Frightnings, and have to say yours looks every bit as good - you sure you didn't make the master for them?!

 

Looking forward to progress!

 

Keith

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9 hours ago, keefr22 said:

Just spent a very pleasant hour catching up from the start Johnny, more of your marvellous modelling occuring again - that bang seat is flipping brilliant! I'm ashamed to say I bought Quickboost seats for my two stashed Frightnings, and have to say yours looks every bit as good - you sure you didn't make the master for them?!

 

Looking forward to progress!

 

Keith

:) I’m glad you’re enjoying the build.  I have bought resin seats too and they are amazing, much butter than what I’ve done but thank you for the compliment. I decided from the start that I wanted to keep Any extras purely scratch built. Hope to have you along for the rest of the kit. Especially the paint. Shiny and matte, that’ll be fun. :lol:

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2 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

He ha ha ha ha he ha he ha...... no.:lalala:

:rofl2: I'm with you Johnny... although I have saved some clear packaging from the Christmas choccies just in case I change my mind.

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12 hours ago, CedB said:

:rofl2: I'm with you Johnny... although I have saved some clear packaging from the Christmas choccies just in case I change my mind.

You will

 

Mark my words, one mad moment you will wonder if it would be better to fit canopies you can actually see inside

 

From that moment of truly clear thought your modelling will evolve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You may even decide to use line emphasis in your enviable dissertations

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Yes I might have to give it a go to but not on this one. B) On and off I have managed a little more work on the bird.

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I added all the bits and bobs on the bottom Ant top. I’m sure they will get knocked off but I’ll be damned if I’m adding them at the end.

the nose ring got a dry fit and :o

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well isn’t that nice.:rage: I want to add the missiles so I won’t put the guns on. But even cleaning up that panel won’t make the fit any better. I’ll need to trim the inside parts that you can just see here.

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To make it fit.

 

Much cutting later we have a better fit.

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I just need to sand that top step.

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better! And front.

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The second leg got built.

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and primed along with the wells and inner flaps.

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Now I need to fit the tail fins. I can’t tell how they sit in neutral position.

do they lol a bit like this.

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Or are they perfectly flat?  That tail looks a bit squiff in that pic but it’s straight, trust me. :huh:

Thanks for any help and cheers for dropping by. 

One more day of 2017 to go! 

 

Gotta walk the hound. See y’all later.

 

Johnny

 

ps. It was a bit squiff, so I fixed it earlier tonight.:o

Edited by The Spadgent
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Coming along nicely.

 

I always have a problem with the fit of the nose ring - it is one of the "deficient" areas of the kit. I'd love to actually make a better nose ring and then cast a bunch of better fitting ones - doubt if I ever will though.

 

On the nose cannons, it was perfectly normal for an F1 or F1A or F2 to have the upper nose cannons in place, even with missiles fitted. F2's could have the lower cannons fitted OR the missile pack, but even when carrying missiles, it was not unusual to see the cannon exit fairings, even though guns were not in place. Also not unusual to see those faired over.............

 

Your Lightning is looking top notch. I'm very impressed, and going to emulate some of your scratch modifications to my future Lightning builds. I'm trying to build at least one of each mark, and will build multiple of some marks because of the splendid schemes that were in use at various times.

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29 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

I used an Aeroclub white metal nose ring on the last one I built and if was a better fit than the kit item, but I had lots of problems with the cannon panels. You’re doing a great job, keep it up.

 

Happy New Year

 

John

Ah - excellent. Might see if I can find one - then I can replicate that.

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On 28/12/2017 at 23:01, giemme said:

As for the windshield, I wasn't suggesting an aftermarket, rather some plounge molding

Now then, fellas....

I picked up a Monogram P47 Jug kit in a battered state for £2.

Most is there, but no transparent parts.

I have a completed one (different manufacturer) that I can use as reference.

What are my options for "plunge moulding" some parts?

Is there a thread or resource on here somewhere that offers some know-how?

Is it a bit like vacuum forming without the suction?

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