1:72 Willys British Airborne Jeep

[Shelliecool]

For my latest project I am embarking on a 1:72 Willys Jeep, with the aim of having it as part of a diorama in the future. My main interest is Military aircraft, and this is only my second venture into constructing vehicles. However, having visited the D-Day museum in portland in the autumn, and having the opportunity to sit in many military vehicles, I decided I needed to build myself a jeep.

I have chosen Airfix 1:72 Willys British Airborne Jeep, mainly because it is the same scale as the aircraft I build. I plan to build the second option in the box, the U.S Army Jeep with Browning machine gun.

 

The box contains 2 grey sprues, all parts are tiny, but have lots of detailing and very little flash. There is also one small clear sprue, and a tiny sheet of decals. This will prove extremely fiddly I fear, but hopefully worth the drama.

Edited December 4, 2017 by Shelliecool

[BIG X]

Oh so tiny - I hope you don't mind if I tag along Shellie - this looks like a lot of fun.  I'm just getting into 1/72 vehicles too - my main interest actually being 1/48 aircraft - but we all need a change from time to time.  I promise to sit quietly here at the back and not crunch my popcorn too loudly...  Steve

[Army_Air_Force]

It's a tiny model, but there's still ways to improve it if you don't want to just build out of the box. I did this normal Jeep for a diorama, and replaced the bows that support the canvas roof with thin copper wire which looked more in scale. Is the Browning mount the door step one for the .30 cal or the centre pedestal version for the .50 cal?

 

 

I can probably help out with the odd reference photo or measurement too!

 

[Aeronut]

Shelliecool.

If you wanted to combine a Jeep with aircraft I have a copy of the rigging instructions for the Jeep (and 6 pounder antitank gun) in the bomb bay of a Halifax (or underneath a Hastings)

[Shelliecool]

On 05/12/2017 at 09:38, Army_Air_Force said:

It's a tiny model, but there's still ways to improve it if you don't want to just build out of the box. I did this normal Jeep for a diorama, and replaced the bows that support the canvas roof with thin copper wire which looked more in scale. Is the Browning mount the door step one for the .30 cal or the centre pedestal version for the .50 cal?

 

 

I can probably help out with the odd reference photo or measurement too!

 

Thank you for your comments and reference photos, these will help me tremendously. I believe the Browning is mounted in the centre..... But will check properly.

Thanks,

Michelle. 

[Shelliecool]

So I began the build with the usual soapy wash down, and as I'm now in love with my airbrush, gave the sprues a coat of primer. As I am working on my airbrushing technique, I decided I would try something new (namely salt Chipping). So I carefully brush painted some of the panels with Humbrol rust, the bonnet, doors and tail gate and left them to dry. Tonight (having watched various guides on YouTube), I brushed some water onto random places that may rust and sprinkled them with rock salt. Leaving it to dry, I mixed Revell light olive with Revell thinner and flow improver, stirring well, then gently sprayed over the salt.

I plan to leave them to dry before brushing the salt off.....fingers crossed!

 

[Army_Air_Force]

Don't go too rusty; after all, they were fairly new vehicles back then. Mud however is another matter, and they get great chunks of mud coating the inside of the front fenders, front face of the fuel tank well, rear wheel arches and particularly on top of the rear light assembly, inside the rear wheel arch.

 

You can see on this shot where I've been working, that the rear light assembly and rear chassis cross member, make an ideal mud trap.

 

 

The front of the tank well below, gets mud built up on it, as does the transfer case cross member just ahead and the bottom of the pedel levers. Also the bottom of the step on the side of the body.

 

 

These next two shots shows how the mud coats the inside of the wheel arches and along the lower edge of the body and grill.

 

[Shelliecool]

8 hours ago, Army_Air_Force said:

Don't go too rusty; after all, they were fairly new vehicles back then. Mud however is another matter, and they get great chunks of mud coating the inside of the front fenders, front face of the fuel tank well, rear wheel arches and particularly on top of the rear light assembly, inside the rear wheel arch.

 

You can see on this shot where I've been working, that the rear light assembly and rear chassis cross member, make an ideal mud trap.

 

 

The front of the tank well below, gets mud built up on it, as does the transfer case cross member just ahead and the bottom of the pedel levers. Also the bottom of the step on the side of the body.

 

 

These next two shots shows how the mud coats the inside of the wheel arches and along the lower edge of the body and grill.

 

Hey, thanks for the info and fantastic photos. If I'm honest I don't think the salt will work on such a small piece. I will definitely use your photos as reference when I begin weathering. That is such a cool piece of kit!

Thanks, 

Michelle 

[Army_Air_Force]

They are great fun but not comfortable on a long drive. I got the first Jeep in 2005, and with a Jeep trailer behind it, my wife and I could get all the camping gear in and go away to weekend shows. Then in 2009, daughter comes along and there wasn't space for the pushchair, highchair, car seat etc, so we bought a Dodge truck to go with the Jeep! In 2012, I bought a 1943 Ford GPW Jeep as a wreck and spent a couple of years stripping and repairing it. That one was back on the road in Spring 2014. I've always been a bit obsessive about my hobbies!! Before buying the first Jeep, I built a 1/35 scale kit to measure to make sure it would fit in my garage!

 

My fleet is all based on the US 100th Bombardment Group who flew out of Thorpe Abbotts on the Norfolk/Suffolk border.

 

[Shelliecool]

Since my last post I have dressed down the salt, and because the kit is so small it has given it a faded look rather than full on rust, so I'm quite pleased. Tonight I have spent time attaching the chassis to the body of the Jeep, and attaching the tow hook, and gear leavers. I have to say tweezers are a necessity for this as the parts are minute! 

 

I have also painted the seats, using olive drab for the frames, and khaki for the seat pads. All in all, it's coming along ok so far.

 

[Shelliecool]

Having had a snow day at home with my son, I have cracked on with the build. Fixing the seats into the cockpit, and painting and fixing the grille into place. 

 

I have also attached the dash board to the bonnet, and added a little detail to create dials. Tomorrow I plan to airbrush the windscreen and start on the wheels.

[Army_Air_Force]

Is the little lump sticking out from the front bumper, the locating position for base of the wire cutter? If so, it's probably better removed. Most of the angle iron wire cutters I've seen were bolted directly to the bumper with rearward braces.

 

 

[Army_Air_Force]

17 hours ago, Shelliecool said:

.....

.....

I've just noticed that the seats are in different positions. Is this how the kit says to fit them? Both seats should be the same position fore and aft, with just the fuel tank sticking out from under the front of the drivers seat. It's your model of course, I'm not telling you that you should go changing everything, I'm just putting the info out there as reference. :-)

 

[Jeepboy]

I've just sold my Jeep but will dig some pics - often passenger seats were reset back to allow more room.  

 

People so often forget that there were many many field mods carried out to all sorts of equipment from Lancaster gun turrets (remove plexiglass) to Jeeps (bumper mounted wire cutters).

 

It's your jeep - make it to suit. 

Edited December 12, 2017 by Jeepboy

[Shelliecool]

42 minutes ago, Army_Air_Force said:

I've just noticed that the seats are in different positions. Is this how the kit says to fit them? Both seats should be the same position fore and aft, with just the fuel tank sticking out from under the front of the drivers seat. It's your model of course, I'm not telling you that you should go changing everything, I'm just putting the info out there as reference. :-)

 

I must admit I did thinks it strange that the seats weren't in line, but went along with the kit instructions and the huge mounting point for the seat. I will double check later.

Thanks, 

Michelle. 

[Army_Air_Force]

Was the seat frame altered for the passenger then? Because as it sits against the rear wheel arch, without alteration, it wouldn't be flat.

I could understand a seat change if there was a passenger side, dash mounted machine gun ( perhaps the airborne version of the kit ), but I would expect standard seating with the centre pedestal gun mount.

 

Edited December 12, 2017 by Army_Air_Force

[Jeepboy]

Mine had a little rubber cushion fillet toward the back and was slightly higher on the front "legs" by about 1" (2.54cm)

[Army_Air_Force]

Was that a post war modification for taller present day people, or a genuine wartime mod? I've not seen any wartime Jeeps with the seats pushed back, but several present day restorations where the drivers seat has been pushed back into a cut out rear wheel arch to give more belly room for modern fat drivers!!

[Jeepboy]

Post war mod PASSENGER SEAT for radio op.  The drivers seat was original to ensure the steering wheel still rubbed the tummy!

[Shelliecool]

So the build has moved along slowly since my last post. I looked carefully at the instructions, which suggest the passenger seat is set back, but looking at the markings sheet Airfix have put the front seats in line. So, I moved the passenger seat forward......for myself rather than any other reason. Then I carefully masked the windscreen and painted it olive drab. Leaving that to dry, I started painting the larger central mounted gun. That was yesterday's work. Today I have removed the masking from the windscreen, and attached it, and the bonnet to the Jeep. 

This was easier said than done, as the whole thing is so tiny. While this dried I started to attach the handle to the gun.......and the carpet monster struck! The minute piece shot off the cutting board and is probably orbiting space as I type! So, I'm now using the smaller gun!!!! 

with the gun, spade and axe, wing mirror and spare wheel attached, she has moved along slowly. Tomorrow, the wheels. Nite nite.

[Shelliecool]

Tonight I have carefully attached the wheels to the axles. Although this sounds pretty easy, as the vehicle is so small it is ultra fiddly and delicate. They are however on, and having the night to set. Tomorrow I will give the Jeep a gloss coat, ready to apply the miniscule decals.

 

 

[Shelliecool]

Quick update from yesterday's progress. I have given the Jeep a coat of Quick Shine gloss and put it to one side to dry. I wasn't planning on building anything else, until........my son asked where the trailer was? So to please him (and practice my airbrushing technique) I have begun building it. As with the Jeep it's very small, and clearly designed for elves fingers. But, that said it's coming along ok. 

[Shelliecool]

Tonight I have applied all the decals to the Jeep. Now I understand that the decals are tiny, but it's a shame Airfix couldn't number them with bigger numbers, as I struggled to identify them with a magnifying glass! That said, they went on easily enough with the help of micro set. Next step, weathering. Sadly at present Flickr won't let me upload any photos.

[Shelliecool]

Another quick update (without photos😣), I have varnished the Jeep using Windsor and Newton matt varnish, and aim to set to work with weathering powders tonight.

 

 

[BIG X]

30 minutes ago, Shelliecool said:

Another quick update (without photos😣), I have varnished the Jeep using Windsor and Newton matt varnish, and aim to set to work with weathering powders tonight.

 

 

Hi Shellie - loving the progress so far - which weathering powders are you going to use?