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The Gentlemanly Pursuit


06/24

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12 hours ago, 06/24 said:

Also I'm scared of trying a NMF which is putting me off a bit just now. 

Hey Jon what are you thinking of using? As you know, I've done 2 back to back in metallics and the "NMF" Spit 22 with Alclad HSS was piece of cake. Actually I found doing NMF way easier than camo but then again I went the toxic route as nothing really seems to come close to Alclad and I've tried everything from Vallejo Acrylics to AK Extreme.

 

The fussiest was Tamiya rattle can decanted, pools like crazy but if you dilute with Mr Leveling it all works out as it dries in minutes.

 

 

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Hmm, now that puts me on the spot. I had thought I might use Halfords rattlecan over Halfords primer, which I've seen some pleasant (and not too high-gloss) finishes on here - this is to be a working Gooney bird not a pampered racer, after all.

 

I also bought some AK xtreme paste stuff (is that the right name) so might try that (perhaps to add some tonal varation.)

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4 hours ago, 06/24 said:

The lovely B-26 here shows what the Halfords paint can do.

It looks about the same as Alclad flat aluminium , which is pretty good! My issue is the waste and the lack of control in rattle cans, I  used Halfords Peugeot red to do my Red Arrows Gnat but decanted

 

30266266007_f054322658_b.jpg&key=7bac03a

 

If you dont decant then try this, gives you way more control (one you've jammed it on!)

 

Cangun1.jpg

 

Blurb: 

http://cangun1.com/

 

Buy (halfords)

https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-workshop/welding-metal-work/can-gun-1-spray-can-tool

 

 

My I'm feeling helpful and cheery after a morning of spraying cellulose paints, wonder if my facemask filters are working....stone groove baby, far out...

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I shall investigate the trigger thing on my next trip to Halfords. At this time of year, I'm unable to spray outside on weekdays, due to, well, darkness! Pity, as the air is so dry today it would be ideal, despite the cold (and my favoured spraying booth, the top of the wheelie bin, is in full sunlight). Any spraying indoors is full of risk of marital disharmony, and is thus best avoided. So, tonight’s plan will be to fit the air intakes, windows and any sticky out bits I think will survive handling, and then mask tomorrow ready for primer on Saturday, weather permitting. It looks as though the wheels and struts can be left off completely until painting has finished.

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The big issue with NMF for me is always tidying up the seams. I now spray Vallejo's Metal Color range, which work nicely (and without stinking the house out), but they do brush paint nicely. I've never tried brushing on something the size of a DC-3, though; that might be rather tricky. The finish is also surprisingly hard and can take normal handling without needing a protective layer of varnish.

 

Those Roden C-47s are really rather nice, aren't they? There's another kit for the list. I'm really looking forward to the Daks over Normandy event later this year, it'd be nice to put a C-47 in the cabinet as a small tribute/reminder.

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5 hours ago, 06/24 said:

 Any spraying indoors is full of risk of marital disharmony, and is thus best avoided. 

Indeed, after much thought I resolved this by making sure that I am in a totally committed relationship observing the following rules:

 

Should current girlfriend criticise any of the following;

  • My modelling activities and various noxious odours produced thereof
  • My stash
  • My consumption of single malts/steaks/full bodied reds/the occasional sausage and egg mcmuffin/visits to good restaurants to atone for previous
  • My playing and listening to jazz
  • My guitar collection
  • My deciding to live in Amsterdam

then I would be totally committed to getting a new girlfriend. So far it has paid dividends and my personal harmony is at nirvana like levels...:angel:

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The Italeri intakes fit pretty well. Which is more than can be said for the rest of the Italeri kit, which shows its age a little. As I intend to do the Italeri closed up I thought it merited a driver.

 

45864866425_3249d53f67_c.jpgC-47 by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

32904133448_0362e36b22_c.jpgC-47 by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

He's probably hopelessly overscale, but once the glass is in hopefully he'll just give a suggestion of life. His hat with crushed cap and headphones came from a German tank commander, as did his arms, while his torso (truncated at the knees - ouch!) is a British truck driver.

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9 hours ago, azureglo said:

Hey Jon what are you thinking of using? As you know, I've done 2 back to back in metallics and the "NMF" Spit 22 with Alclad HSS was piece of cake. Actually I found doing NMF way easier than camo but then again I went the toxic route as nothing really seems to come close to Alclad and I've tried everything from Vallejo Acrylics to AK Extreme.

 

The fussiest was Tamiya rattle can decanted, pools like crazy but if you dilute with Mr Leveling it all works out as it dries in minutes.

Alclad is a lacquer. I find Mr Color to be a wonderful paint, once you learn to airbrush it properly. Thin to about 1% milk consistency, flowing air pressure at 1 Atm, spray thin coats at 5 to 40mm. Other lacquers, like Mr Paint, might be quite similar. Enamels are thicker. Acrylics like Vallejo are thicker still--too thick IMHO.

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21 hours ago, dnl42 said:

Alclad is a lacquer. I find Mr Color to be a wonderful paint, once you learn to airbrush it properly. Thin to about 1% milk consistency, flowing air pressure at 1 Atm, spray thin coats at 5 to 40mm. Other lacquers, like Mr Paint, might be quite similar. Enamels are thicker. Acrylics like Vallejo are thicker still--too thick IMHO.

You sir, are preaching to the converted:  Been using Gunze for 4 years now, even mix my own pre-thinned versions and now priming with Mr Surfacer 1500.

 

 

 Mr Paint claims to be an Acrylic albeit with lacquer thinners, does that make it a lacquer paint? That said I dont think its the paint, all "lacquer" paints tend to behave very well even decanted car paints, The game changer is Mr Levelling thinner, a gift from the modelling gods. As for @06/24, he's shortly going to the have most blinged up shiny, wheelie bin in England if all goes to plan...

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24 minutes ago, azureglo said:

Wot!? Any chance of a picture of ye in a kilt laddie for proof?

Speaking as someone who was forced to wear a kilt to many formal occasions through childhood, you don't have to do this to yourself, Jon.

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The windows were a mixed bag, those on the fuselage sides fit perfectly and were easy to glue in place, Sealy the same was not true of the cockpit windows, everything was just fractionally too large for an easy or near fit. With some effort and eventually the frightened application of Tamiya extra thin, and rubber bands, I think they have been persuaded into an acceptable, if imperfect, fit.

 

Attention then turned to the aerials. After an initial false start when I misinterpreted my references and filled a fixing hole i should have left open (!), I assembled the u shaped one for the cockpit roof, and set it aside (safely) to harden. The teardrop shaped one under the cockpit appears to be too far forward (at least compared to my only C-47A drawing) so I filled its fixing slot and will fix it further aft. The Assam Airlines plane appears to have various aerial not included in the Airfix parts, including a loop, and various masts. The one mast that Airfix do include was misshaoen, so this morning's fun was fashioning a replacement from florists wire - filed to shape while gripped in a pin vice, and fitted in a blind hole drilled partway through the cabin roof.

 

32921926288_a3ab9b58ed_c.jpgMast by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

32921926258_b1f4c1defa_c.jpgMast by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

It could probably be a trifle thinner, but it looks ok in situ I think, and is significantly more robust than a bit of thin plastic. It served as a useful trial run as I will need to fashion several others to match the prototype's aerial fit.

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Thanks folks. There's quite a lot of aerials, so today's progress has been plodding along either scratchbuilding or modifying kit parts. So far I haven't got a single aerial as the kit instructions suggest! (I will do so with the one under the nose, but I think it's too vulnerable to fit before painting.)

 

Anyway, less words, more pictures:

 

Homemade DF loop

 

46749979252_ce509ba09d_c.jpgC-47 Aerials by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

More sticky out bits

 

39837119043_66e5a0194a_c.jpgC-47 Aerials by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

39837118943_23e7b7eb54_c.jpgC-47 Aerials by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

 

39837118993_4d1ca60e62_c.jpgC-47 Aerials by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr

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I've had to assume the DF loop was central, as I haven't been able to find any clear shots showing one in that position. The only shot I have seen of the particular aircraft shows "something" forward of the astrodome, but it's not clear, the Osprey profile shows the DF loop and while I recognise that profiles are hardly infallible, it's good enough for me.I

 

I also don't know if this aircraft had the rugby ball but I'm going to assume it did, and fit it underneath.

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