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Hasegawa 1/48 Hawker Typhoon - Car Door


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4 hours ago, Col. said:

Lovely work so far :goodjob:

If you are looking to do some limited chipping I can recommend Windsor & Newton masking fluid or even butter as masking mediums.

Or my personal choice, the cheapest tin of hair spray with a high laquer content. Works justs as well as modelling chipping fluids and halve the price!

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4 minutes ago, neil5208 said:

Or my personal choice, the cheapest tin of hair spray with a high laquer content. Works justs as well as modelling chipping fluids and halve the price!

 

Yes indeed - from what I read the intertubez last night, this is really the way to go. I had thought that a "specialist" chipping fluid might offer some advantage, but it doesn't look like it really.

 

In any case, I'll be testing a few things out, and see if I can get the effect I want.

 

All suggestions welcome!

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My method is primer, silver, hair spray, leave to dry for a least 2.days. spray the required top coat colour and once dry using masking tape press on the area you want chipping use a tooth pick or pencil to apply prssure on tape and then remove tape. It should lift paint radomly depending how hard you put pressure on it, repeat until desired effect is achieved. Remeber to clear coat to prevent further chipping.

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I'm going to try that. I've got an old monogram Typhoon that I'll never build - think I'll throw it together as a test mule for this. I think an actual kit is a better test bed than flat sheets of card. I don't usually take scale modelling quite so seriously, but I do think a bit of test work is worthwhile this time.

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So, I've had this thing sitting around. I bought it when I first got back into scale modelling, but when I discovered it was an old 1960's kit tossed it aside, never to be made.

 

DSC_0306%20%28Large%29-XL.jpg

 

So I decided to use it as a paint mule and test some stuff.

 

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As it happens, a very fun 10 minutes. Kind of took me way back. I have to say though, the fit on this kit is way better than I expected - top notch for 1967 really.

 

Anyhoo, had a bit of fun spraying it with alclad gloss black primer, and then various shades of alclad metal. That was a project in itself, because I needed to learn how to lay the alclad down properly. This looks pretty rotten, but I learned a lot this morning, and I think one more practice attempt will get me where I need to be in readiness for a highly polished Lightning.

 

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But then the other purpose of this is for chipping practice - but first need to gather some hairspray and other things to try out.

 

Si I got one of my first test pieces this morning, which has the nasty orange peeled effect, and had a go at chipping.

 

It was fairly impervious, and took some work, but I got this

 

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And actually, this gives me some hope for a reasonable effect, even with black basing and lacquer based paints.

 

More to come, but not for a week or so because other tasks will keep me from the bench for a little while. But looking forward to getting back at it.

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  • 1 month later...

So, I got around to doing some testing with my paint mule.

 

Ignore, if you can, some of the shoddy paintwork on this thing, but it's just  a test bed.

 

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The sequence for all this was:

 

1. Black undercoat

2. Metallic layer

3. Hairspray

4. black base layer

5. Camo colours

 

Then the chipping. I found the best results and easiest to control chipping were on areas where the hairspray was relatively thin. I tried using masking tape to randomly pull off some paint, and that worked to an extent - probably OK for areas like the walkway where larger chipped areas are OK. For small chips, carefully picking at the paint with a toothpick seems best. So my pics above are over the top, and have major chipping. That's a lot to do with really going at the paintwork to get a feel for robustness. I don't want to be quite that excessive on the real thing. Neverthelss - I'm fairly happy. I did try a stiff bristle brush and water, but didn't have a lot of luck with that approach. This paint is all lacquer based MRP - which I find sprays really well, and it may be too tough for the water approach. I also left plenty of time between paint layers and before chipping - deliberately as it tends to take me a while to get back to the becnh sometimes. So I decided to go for it on the real subject.

 

Here I have applied Alclad aluminum finish over a matt black layer. I didn't feel that a highly polished metal effect was necessary for this.

 

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And after that cured, I sprayed the hairspray on. To do that, I dulted the hairspray in a small glass jar with Mr. Levelling Thinner - very roughly 70% hairspray to 30% thinner. I tested the mix out on the paint mule first, and found that it sprays really well, and dries smoothly without orange peeling, so I had at it on the Typhoon. No pics of that, but the hairspray went on well - nice and smooth, no orange peeling, just as on the mule.

 

Now letting that cure. At the weekend - black basing and camouflage! We're moving again - but I'm glad I took the time to experiment first - I have some high hopes that I can make this technique work for me. Looking forward to trying.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I blended in the lower surfaces a bit more today - then realized that I probably have my painting out of sequence. I think I might have been better off painting the rear band and underside white for the invasion stripes first. So - before going too far I did some remedial work.

 

Masked up for some more painting

 

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Then I added white over the grey, in a similar method to black basing. Just marbling first, then blending. I also did the same with the sky band on the rear fuselage. I set up for the yellow leading edges as well.

 

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And once all was done - you know I think it worked out OK. Now I can proceed to the upper surfaces.

 

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Edited by propforward
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Good progress on the paint work. I'm finally ready to paint the Azure lower surfaces. I'm using Vallejo air for it.the paint in the bottle looks a tad dark, but I will see how it goes. I had a lot of trouble with that right wing to fuselage joint. Had it good with a piece of plastic card which disappear just as I was about to start the top coats. Very annoying. Anyway I'm back to square one now.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Trudging slowly along............

 

I tend to put off masking and procrastinate about it for fear of messing it up. But I got on with it and at least got the black stripes on.

 

DSC_0438%20%28Large%29-XL.jpg

 

Next weekend I hope to have another big masking session and get the upper surfaces done. I don't like to leave masking tape on for too long, so I'll want to mask up saturday, and then press on and get all the upper camo done.

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  • 8 months later...

Hello again. I'm back. I got back to the modelling bench today, and was all set to mask up ready for top side painting, but when I lifted my Typhoon up, paint had stuch to the silicone tips of my holder, and so I have some repair work to do.

 

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I've sanded the offending spots back, and then discovered that a seam on the nose had opened. So I sanded that back as well, and I'm refilling.

 

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I was mkaing ready to spray some primer on and get back to paint readiness, only for the pressure switch on my compressor to go for a burton. :poop:

 

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No pressure switch means no pressure, which means no painting today. Oh well, maybe next week.

 

Good to be back at the bench even for a little bit.

Edited by propforward
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Air compressor all repaired, with a new pressure cut off switch - so back to it!

 

Finished sanding and rescribing the joint in front of the cockpit, and polished up some other imperfections

 

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Then masked up a bit to prevent over spray

 

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And then  re primed the upper surfaces.

 

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My scribing technique needs work, but I'm happy with the joint blending.

 

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I used this as primer

 

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It is without a doubt the nicest paint I have ever worked with. It is super fine and easy to control. I'll be making more use of this going forward. I love the MRP range, and highly recommend them.

 

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Progress!

 

Got some masking done, touched up the undercoat, and then got busy with some MRP Ocean Grey. Oh how I LOVE MRP! So easy to control. Doesn't clog the airbrush - sprays fine or broad. I call it MiRacle Paint.

 

Marbling layer first:

 

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And then some blending:

 

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Off out for a hot lunch, then I'll mask up for the green. I'm going to use some masks

 

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I've used these before, and they're quite good, although I'm not really sure they are worth the expense. I already had these, so I'll use them, but most likely in future I'll just stick to blu / white tack worms for demarcation.

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Thank you! I have had fun today. These paints dry masking tape ready in no time as well, which is fantastic. I am lucky - I have a couple of those little cheapy paint booths, vented through the wall of my shed so that I don't stink the place up. The fact that these particular paints are lacquers and therefore stink is the only downside - but that also means they adhere to the plastic really well.

 

I masked up for the green

 

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Then I applied some more black for shading purposes

 

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And started marbling the dark green on.

 

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This is usually when I start having doubts and wondering whether I've taken the right approach. But I kept on at it.

 

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Blending in the green

 

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I gave it all a few minutes to dry, then it was on to the great unwrapping event of the day, and finding out how well I masked it.

 

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For the most part I'm pretty happy with it. There are a couple of areas to touch up where there were minute gaps in the masking, but overall not too shabby. In future I'll do the sky tail band after it all though. I thought I was being clever doing that first, but it's best left until last.

 

Edited by propforward
Added pitcher
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Had a long overdue tidy up of the workbench today. It was getting all cluttered, with too much risk of sharp and abrasive things finding my fresh paintwork.

 

IMG_5184%20%28Large%29-XL.jpg

 

Then got on with painting and masking some of the smaller parts.

 

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GAH!

 

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Oh well, that will be repaired easily enough.

 

Started cleaning up the Barracuda cast wheels.

 

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Starting to feel like the finish line is in sight, but there's lots to do. Just got to keep on keeping on. Next weekend I plan to touch up a few areas of paint work, and mask and paint the walk way strips, then see about some paint chipping.

 

Edited by propforward
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Thank you! I really appreciate that comment. I’m liking this approach to tone variation a lot. It’s very controllable. I think I may have slightly overblended the green layer, and lost some shading, but I’m not going for a super faded look either. In any case, I’m happy with how this has turned out. I’ll keep playing around with the technique for sure. 

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In my (limited) experience, black basing looks amazing on lighter colors, but it’s really difficult to “notice” when you go to darker colors. I’ve seen people use white as the base color for darker shades, do the same mottling and blending effect, and it actually comes out pretty nice. Something to try the next time around maybe?

 

This kit is coming together nicely. Really looking good! I’ve got one of these in the stash, and would like to add the Aires cockpit to it as well, glad to see it almost drops in!

 

Thanks for sharing. 

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I think you have a point there - in fact I'm going to try exactly that for black on a night fighter and on bombers. It stands to reason that the same technique would work for dark green and grey. Basically it's just a matter of choosing the background to suit the amount of tone variation you want. It is a very flexible technique - it is still entirely possible to have very string shading around panel lines if that's the desired approach.

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