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Missouri Armada P-51D Mustang: documents and partial scratch from the Tamiya 1/48 kit


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smJJPI.jpg

 

peUETs.jpg

 

N.B: now that I compare the photo 267 just above with this doc 121, I wonder if I was not wrong again in my post# 1199 saying the front was in the left direction:

0zJFcP.png

 

P.S: and now that I made this enlargement of our photo 138, I have no more doubt:

 

3l5IJx.png

 

So it is this doc that I will use for the angle that the leg end should do (60°), and not at all the one we may see on the photo 121, that I was about to take as reference! Our tail wheel docs will have been very tricky, definitely... but the most important is the final result, isn't it?  

Now here is precisely the axis that my leg should have in the bay:

vrXjOQ.jpg

 

This angle determined, we can see that the flat area of my wheel should be moved like the red arrow shows. I even may glue my tail wheel (after the last painting corrections).

And after that, my next challenge will be to represent this canvas!

 

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Thanks a lot chaps! Your encouragements are my best source of motivation. I have improved the tail wheel area, and the canvas, with the great help of my flowable composite resin:

kmq5GN.jpg

 

1s77jL.jpg

 

P.S: and now, a little break to follow the game France- Argentina, the soccer being one of my other passions. Allez les Bleus !! 🇫🇷

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My canopy patch was too thin and too clear. I have thickened and opacified it by adding tiny drops of Colle 21 cyano.

N.B: 1) It is more safe to do that job before you glue the patch on the canopy, but if you do so, take care not to lose it, as it is a very small and clear part. To avoid that, you can put the patch on the adhesive part of a Post-It, fe.

2) This cyano has a very slow dry, especially if you place the drop on a clear acetate sheet. But with it, it seems that you don’t have the problem of whitish halo met with some other cyano brands (JM Villalba showed in a tuto how to avoid this halo when using cyano on clear parts).

Of course, you can also use a more thick sheet of clear Evergreen (0,25 mm instead of 0,13), more simple, but you will get a flat patch, while the cyano technique allows to get the slightly bulged shape we may see on the doc above (post# 1211). After a light and accurate sanding job of the cyano (once it is dry) on the top part of the patch (I use for this accurate sanding job the home made tool I showed above in the thread), I have applied finally a drop of X21 acrylic Tamiya Clear varnish (thinned with X20 A)  on the patch. 

2eQFoO.jpg

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Q6rDL9.jpg

 

I measured the width between the outside part of my canopy rails, it is 16,15 mm!

8pNxfx.jpg

 

This means that I will have to replace the too narrow Eduard PE stem and to scratchbuild it. Pity, it was good except that...

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I post again this doc John Terrell brought us (post# 799 p. 32) because it is a reference one for the small squarred release on the left side of the canopy frame:

i3swLw.jpg

 

and also this close-up of the patch completing usefully the one I posted above: I wonder what is this stuff that is located on the inside part of the canopy and definitely connected with the patch. Notice also the 2 screws on the patch:

vtLZdb.png

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Hi olivier,

can't believe  you are getting Missouri in the finish line so soon 😏 looking so  great as always!!!

before you glue in position the windshield maybe you can paint the white silicium box of the K14 gunsight

cheers

k_14.jpg

Edited by antonio argudo
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16 hours ago, antonio argudo said:

before you glue in position the windshield maybe you can paint the white silicium box of the K14 gunsight

You are right, Antonio! How could I miss that? I am gonna try to do the necessary correction (uneasy at this stage) all now. Before painting this box, I will have to scratchbuild it, as it is not represented by Eduard Brassin in his K14 gunsight set.

Thanks for your kind words my friend.

 

15 hours ago, crobinsonh said:

Thank you for spending all the time that you have invested in this thread. Very inspirational.

Thanks a lot to you too, crobinsohn! :)

It is true that I was very invested (my wife would rather say addicted!) on the thread, as I was on my build.

It is my pleasure to share my passion with the modelers community, and if I gave a lot, I got a lot too: without the contribution of many experts, that I will mention again at the end of my build, I would have been far from the faithful result I should soon get (except for the dihedral angle :mellow:...)

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

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My canopy, frame and windshield are nearly ready for the painting job, after some improvements, corrections and of course the masking job:

 

MxyZS8.jpg

 

N.B: it was very difficult to get a good result by engraving the very small (1 mm squares) panel, I preferred  to glue a 0,13 mm thickness (Evergreen) squarred panel. A compromise I had ever done for the release handle on the right side in front of the windshield...

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