Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 12 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said: Do you have another doc helpful to represent them, please? I made a small research and I only could find this period pic, that has ever been posted in the thread. Of course, I made an enlargement: N.B: finally, for early sway braces, the Tamiya ones were not so bad, even if a bit too short and incomplete... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 (edited) You've made the spring in 1/48 scale!! I would think twice about trying it in 1/32. The item on the opposite side of the frame is a wooden roller, which assisted in the retraction of the lamp. I have more details somewhere if you're interested. John EDIT Sorry, I didn't see the last page before I posted this. Edited June 24, 2018 by Biggles87 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 29 minutes ago, Biggles87 said: The item on the opposite side of the frame is a wooden roller, which assisted in the retraction of the lamp Thanks John for that info. If you have more detail, yes, it will be interesting for everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 My landing light is now in place. I will just do a small correction, removing the dry brushed alu on the wooden roller. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Because Britmodeller is a space for exchange between modelers, let me share with you a crush matched by some warnings: Here is imho the best sprue cutter existing. I had to reorder it because I had a bit damaged the sharp edges of my old one, trying sometimes to cut small metal wires, what you definitely should never do (only for soft plastic as mentioned). I hardly recommend this one, anguled, extra tapered, with sharp edges, a good lenght of the jaws and a very good grip, much better than the 410 from the same brand (a little cheaper but really not at all as good). I myself had been abused like that and ordered by error the 410 while I thought it was the same than mine... It is not so easy to find and you can easily be abused and order the 410 one (not anymore I hope with this warning), especially since it is much more easy to find. Comparison: In difficult areas, you will appreciate a lot the lenght and the sharpness of the 2175ET: N.B: I precise that of course I have no commercial interest in that product... Happy modeling... Olivier 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 N.B: - the diameter of the stretched plastic is 0,27 mm. I will try to get a sharp end on top... - the longer portion of stretched plastic is about 1,8 mm. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 So that's one down, only another seven to make! john 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 The landing light looks great! Nice info on the cutter too. I've seen them on a auction site, and thought of picking one up. Håkan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 15 hours ago, Biggles87 said: So that's one down, only another seven to make! and seven which make eight. Phew! 😉 N.B: the saucers have not been painted, keeping their natural « alu white » look (tin material). 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antonio argudo Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 super craftsman skills Olivier 😉, keep the good! cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 My sway braces are now all in place and I am quite glad (even if it is of course not perfect) with the result considering the scale (1/48). The correct placement and cementing of these sway braces was quite challenging especially with the tanks in place and the pipes in the middle. Using a tin wire (soft material) for the fuel pipes was a good idea because I could move them a little upward without problem to release the notch in which the sway brace had to be glued (red arrow on pic 262). I used one more time the Microscale Micro Metal for a first placement without stress, and then a tiny drop of liquid cyano (capillarity) to reinforce the glueing. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Fine work, as always, dear Olivier!! You should be extremely proud, Sir! Cheers, H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 4 hours ago, harveyb258 said: You should be extremely proud, Sir! My dear Harvey, thanks for your kind words. I will be extremely proud when I am able to do the very impressive things you do and show in your amazing thread on Britmodeller: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj1mKvFs-_bAhXJbxQKHQb1BdkQFghuMAs&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.britmodeller.com%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F235024930-fiat-806gp-full-scratchbuild-112%2F&usg=AOvVaw3kNPidRPAGECCn6wFLHZGh Cheers Olivier 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 3 minutes ago, Olivier de St Raph said: I will be extremely proud when I am able to do the very impressive things you do and show in your amazing thread... Thank you, my friend...you're too kind! Cheers, H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 Before focusing on the tail wheel and the canvas, I should first do a correction that would have been more easily done before: I had not noticed that problem when I was working on this area in the middle of april (posts# 898 to 905 on p. 36 and 37 of the thread), but Squibby mentioned with right in the post# 152 of last 29/05 (p. 7 of his thread) that Tamiya moulded the tail wheel door back to front, the indents needing to be facing the rear end of the plane as this is where the actuating arms attach: Our docs (fe the 122 below) confirm indeed that the actuating arms, and so the indents inside the doors, are located at the rear end of the latter, while Tamiya wrongly placed them on the front end... Congratulations and thanks to Squibby for this very good observation, even if it causes me a problem at the stage where I am... Here are, furthermore, my best documents (ever posted in the thread) to represent the tail wheel and the protective wrapping canvas. I have just a small doubt about the actuating arms/ the canvas. There had to be openings in the latter to allow the arms to pass through. Any close-up showing precisely the relation arm/ canvas will be warmly welcome ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 These close-up (and clarified version for the pic 130) will be helpful to represent correctly the indents, the actuating arms and the opening in the rear part of the canvas for them to pass through: N.B: imho, the Tamiya indents (and moreover in general the inside parts of the tail wheel doors) are not only wrong by their location, they are also wrong by their shape. That is why I will try to scratchbuild them, instead of trying to get and graft the ones I have in my "emergency 2nd kit"... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 The Tamiya and the Eduard Brassin tail wheel leg are quite wrongly represented. The Eduard Brassin is though a little better (and more fragile...) because the gap between the leg end and the wheel is present, what is not the case on the Tamiya B20 part. On both legs, the end is in the continuation of the shock absorber... I will have to move it more backward. Finally, considering the quite bad replica of the leg by the 2 brands, it is an opportunity to hide it with the canvas... 😉 Of course, only an accurate comparison allowed to enhance these problems, and all the modelers who built OOB the tail wheel leg should not feel frustrated. N.B: as I had done for the landing light, I have duplicated my best tail wheel docs, and turned upside down the copy. Indeed, it is much more easy to work on a doc that is in the same direction than what I see on my build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 I have done the most important correction. If I had not decided to represent the wrapping canvas, I would have probably improved a bit more this leg... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Olivier... INSPIRATIONAL work Sir.. VERY EXEMPLARY AND OUTSTANDING workmanship Olivier. keep it up. the P-51 MUSTANG is one of MY Favorites and this particular build of yours is AMAZING... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Thanks a lot, Houston, I remember you, with many « likes » and ever very kind and encouraging words while I was working on the cockpit. It was beginning of last december... We are now nearly in july and the baby will be born soon, after about 8 months of a patient work but overall of a fascinating and exciting saga! All the best Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Olivier... I have been busy {MY MOM passed away In August and so been busy with duty and sorting Her Estate (still ongoing) 🤗 } .... so the delay in catching up with your SUPERB work which is very INSPIRING .. I Adore Mustangs and Missouri Arnada P-51D is MY Favorite.. keep up the high standards and EXCELLENCE. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 16 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said: On both legs, the end is in the continuation of the shock absorber... I will have to move it more backward. I have to apologize, I made a confusion and I was wrong on this point. The error I made in the doc of the post# 1193 was to consider that the photo was taken from the front, while it was from the rear: A very confusing document: but this leg end is swirling and on the confusing doc, it is 180° located/ what it should be... This period diagram confirms what is the good shape for this tail wheel: So I should not have moved the leg end. I was wrong too saying the fork should be more forward. Sorry for this confusion. Finally, considering these errors, the Tamiya B20 part is not so bad... Olivier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 (edited) Olivier.. even GREAT minds are sometimes confused so heck you noticed THAT. good reference too... thanks for your clarification. It happens. Edited June 28, 2018 by HOUSTON 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now