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Missouri Armada P-51D Mustang: documents and partial scratch from the Tamiya 1/48 kit


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Beautiful, meticulous work, Olivier!!!  Hat's off to you!

 

Your thoughts will soon be turning onto the Mef, won't they??…..I can't wait!:D

 

Cheers, H

Edited by harveyb258
Forgot summat!
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Thanks a lot, Harvey! 😉

Yes, the Mef should be my next build, even if finding back the poor quality of an old Protar kit is not a very gratifying perspective... (I don't have your skills to do a full metal scratch version...)

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

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Don´t be afraid , dear Olivier ! The Mef is less difficult than the 806 and I promise to show you how to improve it . ( more elaborated than my version )

And there are two kits in one  because the engine is a world of it´s own . And that´s a real fun part !   Hannes

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Nice work with the decal! :)

 

I was just about to ask how you handled the decal when all excess was cut off, when I noticed that tool. :)

Seems like a good thing to get or make.

 

Håkan

 

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19 hours ago, Hannes said:

more elaborated than my version

Dear Hannes,

I would sign all now to get an as beautiful as your Mef build. I had been really very impressed by these amazing photos you had posted in our thread.

 

Many greetings

 

Olivier

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You will get it ,dear Olivier ! If you wish , I´ll explain sculptural works step by step . There are 3 different parts of the Mef where you will need it : The car´s tail , the completely wrong exhaust and the 2 parts below the chassis rails .The rest should be a breeze for you as we already could see on your 806  I´m by your side of course . An investment for a diamond file  ( about 50 euros ) is high but you will you will profit by it for a long time .

Have some  nice holidays and many greetings to your family !   Hannes

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6 hours ago, Hannes said:

An investment for a diamond file  ( about 50 euros ) is high but you will you will profit by it for a long time 

Dear Hannes can you give me precisions about this diamond file? I have got diamond files (especially a Tamiya one that I often use), but I don’ know if it is the same kind that you think about...

Cheers 

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Dear Olivier , for sculpturing purposes you need a big flat and heavy file .My own one has a lenght of 18 cm diamonds and an overall lenght of 25 cm . The German company Pferd produces very good diamond files . Unfortunately they are more expensive as I thought  ( about 85 Euro for a suited file ) For detailling works you can use smaller files but the basic tool should be a big one .

My recommendation is : Pferd Diamant Werkstattfeile Flachstumpf DF 1120 126 100 or similar. Maybe you can get it cheaper by another producer ,can´t say if they are  as good as the recommended product .

The file can get cleaned in acetone . It´s better to use a file with relative big diamonds because you need to remove a lot of  filler .I never use a grip and  hold the file in my hands or between the fingers as I need it . The small sides are useful for finer works . If the shape is achieved you can go on with sanding paper and so on .I´ll explain details later .

Many greetings !   Hannes

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 The '  wear and tear ' on the wing root really depended on how long the aircraft had been in service since it was painted . If you look at Spitfires for example, it ranges from scratches, as you have depicted to quite large patches of bare metal.

 

John

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Thanks John, but a color period photo (even of a Spit...) with these large patches of bare metal on the wing root would be very helpful and inspiring...

I found this one on a very nice Spit build on the net:

ZmaV56.jpg

 

 

Olivier

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I am back home (and bench...) after a small break that gave me the occasion to take a step back on my build. As seen above, I was not very happy with the wing root area left side. Thanks to the great doc posted by Antonio, I could improve it...

Furthermore, for the svastikas awards, I have decided to use the technique mentioned in the JM Villalba DVD for letters and numbers, removing just the film but not the support. It is the first time I use this technique and it is in fact much more easy than what I imagined. Of course, a new blade is recommended...

 

 

pSdvnN.jpg

 

47vokG.jpg

 

CxxohF.jpg

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Olivier, it's worth remembering that many pilots and ground crew mounted the Mustang wing from the front, using the wheel as a step, and thus avoiding the drooped flap and tricky narrow step area at the rear of the wing-root. So the area around the front of the wing root will have become quite dirty, scratched and worn too.

 

Justin

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He'las, I don't I'm afraid. The internet might yield something. But my approach to weathering the wing-root area has been to make it quite balanced from front to rear, and not overdo the rear, at the expense of the front.

 

Justin

Edited by Bedders
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