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Missouri Armada P-51D Mustang: documents and partial scratch from the Tamiya 1/48 kit


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Warning: I have applied the RAF DG and the MSG on these flaps, and when I have removed the masks (low tack, nevertheless) on the hinges (I recall I have chosen the alu option for this area), the Alclad paint has been partially torn off (I should have done trials on the resin first). So, I don't recommend this paint on the resin, while it is OK on the polystyrene. I will probably do paintbrush corrections either with Vallejo (but imho they are not so good for alu), either more probably with enamel X-11 Tamiya thinned with the X-20  thinner...

 

BRyWCY.jpg

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Not so fun when such things happens! 

I hope repainting with another color turns out okey!

 

Håkan

 

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I think you really need  to use some primer under the Alclad Olivier. I use an automotive acrylic gray primer which is about half the price of dedicated model primer and works just as well.

Hope you get it sorted soon.

 

John

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6 hours ago, Azgaron said:

I hope repainting with another color turns out okey!

 

Dear Håkan,

I didn't like the idea of applying another paint with a paintbrush, even a very good one like the X-11 enamel Tamiya. I made another choice for the corrections on the flaps hinges:

 

NklcxV.jpg

 

P.S: John, I just found out your post and your hint. Thanks a lot, but I think it should be OK. If possible, I prefer to avoid primers (except the Alclad that is very very thin and for the "metal look" it brings - not as convincing under these RAF colors than under the red of my Fiat 806, I admit...-) not to lose details (what would be a pity with these great flaps). But it is certainly a good idea anyway, and I could change my mind in case of new problem.

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842nI9.jpg

 

... a real challenge but a very exciting one, the most creative part of the build. As would say my dear friend Harvey, I am having a ball, even if I do mistakes, of course. Happily, the paint thinned a lot with the 96° alcohol allows many corrections without losing details... The correct thinning is one of the keys to success. 

For these first steps, I used mainly the following colors: XF-59 (Desert Yellow) and XF-1 (Flat Black) and the airbrush is hold very close from the surface (about 1 cm).

More soon...

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The weathering on the dark green areas and on the nose of my Missouri Armada is soon over. A mix of black and brown wash has been applied on panel lines (not over).

I used a needle and sometimes the tip of my 15C blade to scrape the green paint and leave the metal appear (I don't regret my idea to have this alu coat under), even if of course it would have been possible to create these chips with other methods (JM Villalba uses the Vallejo paints and the Silver Giotto Mega pencil with great results). Maybe some of these chips are not irregular enough, especially on the access panels to the machine guns (Juan is much better than me to create irregular and subtle effects...) For the alu screws, the scraping method was not very well adapted and I so used  the X-11 enamel Tamiya. 

 

 

2LvKGW.jpg

 

2hjTKA.jpg

 

5aoPP2.jpg

 

N.B: the nose has been placed for the photo but of course, it is not yet glued...

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nice progres Olivier, she is looking gorgeous!!!

I love that last picture, I noticed that the grey/green demarcation line should be slightly higher  when comparing with reference pictures, keep the good, we are enjoying so much your updates!

cheers

 

line.jpg

Edited by antonio argudo
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First thanks a lot to Antonio, elger, Biggles87 and Azgaron for watching and encouraging.

 

14 hours ago, antonio argudo said:

I noticed that the grey/green demarcation line should be slightly higher  when comparing with reference pictures

You are right, Antonio, the comparison photo below confirms so:

b47zeV.png

 

It is not too late, and I will do the correction with care. Thanks for that good observation, I had not noticed that, relying on the Eagle decal  document, while it is not really accurate on this area. Though, impossible to know if the right side was also following a curved line, that's I wonder if my correction should concern this right side too (they were not necessary symmetric.

Pity, I will be quite busy the next days, so my progress will be a bit slower.

I hope this build will be over in about 1 month, maybe 2. There is still a lot of work to do, but I feel it's been 1,5 years (I exaggerate only slightly) since I began this build with the radio compartment... It was in fact in last November 19, so a bit more than 6 months ago...

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

 

 

 

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Just by airbrushing a very thinned (still with alcohol) and light coat of RAF Dark Green on them. I have done the same on other alu chips. 

I completed that airbrush coat with a mix of Vallejo paints (Dark Brown, American Green and Black) to get a color close from the RAF Dark Green. This mix was thinned with water and applied with a fine paintbrush (Winsor and Newton) on the alu screws.

 

N.B: I have just received the Rosie riveters 0,5 and 0,75 mm - I had only 1 size up to now, the 0,6mm - ordered finally directly from Petr Dousek (their creator) because the shipping from USA have increased a lot... I am not sure I will use them for this build now that the riveting job is nearly over, but if I had got them before, I would certainly have...

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Hi Olivier,

 

very nice progress, the plane is looking fantastic. However, I don't think they would have painted the invasion stripes inside the duct behind the radiator, this area should be yellow zinc chromate.

 

Cheers,

 

Laurent

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Hi Laurent,

I had myself suggested that this area was YZC (see my post# 266 on p. 11), but later (I don't remember where in the thread, I will try to find it), on Mattlow suggestion, John Terrell confirmed that on the earlier versions like the Missouri, this area was alu and not YZC...

The area in front of the black stripe is not white but alu.

Thanks a lot for your kind words anyway 😊

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

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Olivier,

 

Photos of in-service P-51s that I have seen (including on the internet) indicate that the area under the radiator became extremely dirty and worn, particularly the area of the invasion stripes. So it's an opportunity to be brave with the weathering...

https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/usa/aircrafts-2-3/p-51-mustang/p-51d-44-13926-375th-fs-361st-fg-late-july-1944/

 

Justin

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I agree with you, Justin. I know this photo (ever posted in the thread) and that was my intention to accentuate the weathering by using it. Up to now, I have been following JMV instructions who made a very subtle but not too strong weathering there. Here are other examples of in service P-51 bottom view:

ZZyWd9.jpg

 

RwVGf2.jpg

 

Olivier

 

 

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My weathering has been increased and is close from being over now:

 

e2Xis7.jpg

 

93Xm9Y.jpg

 

As I expected, the Marabu varnish thinned with the X20 Tamiya enamel thinner gives in fact a satin aspect (and yet, I have added a little Lacquer Thinner in the mix to get a more bright result, what I don't intend to do on the rest of the aircraft).

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