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Missouri Armada P-51D Mustang: documents and partial scratch from the Tamiya 1/48 kit


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Hello Olivier,

A super job with the wheel wells. Does that mean that you still have to paint the structure in yellow chromate once the 'ceiling' with the decals is done? I admire your patience and your endurance.

 

All the best,

Quang

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Thanks a lot elger, John, Antonio and Quang.

Yes Quang, when the decal job will be over (soon), I will have to do the painting one, for the structure (stringers, beams...) and the cables. I will probably add some cables running with gaps under the ceiling, for a more realistic and pleasing to the eye result. But the Aires set (as the Vector) is a good base, and considering the very complex network of cables and details in the P-51 wheel bays, the scratch option would have been long and difficult too, even using the great Squibby’s tuto.

 

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Last progress on my wheel bays. The decal job has required a lot of patience. Indeed, the decals were not soft enough to conform the reliefs as I would have wanted, even using MicroSol or Mr Mark Softer. So I had to cut  very small portions of Alclad stencils to get a quite convincing result.

The painting and weathering job are going on, not yet over...

T2wR5R.jpg

 

 

LbKWOQ.jpg

 

 

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The stencils make a big difference to the overall appearance Olivier. In 50 years of modelling I have never printed my own decals, but I think I might have to try it for my 1/32 Revell Mustang.

Excellent  work

 

John

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Thanks John. I have less experience in model making than you, but for me too, it was the first time I used clear decals printed, and finally, it was not so difficult. As I said above, the hardest was to patiently cut tiny portions to place between the many cables. From this point of view, the scratch option would have been much more simple, as the cables would have been added AFTER placing larger portions of stencils...

 

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My wheel bays over, I have glued them inside the underbody Tamiya part. I still have to dig inside the upper wings in order to be able to close perfectly the up and bottom parts of the wings.

N.B: finally, I didn't add more cables, considering I had ever spent a lot of time on these gear bays...

 

XaDlMU.jpg

 

QMZi0j.jpg

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Great job with the wells, Olivier.

IMO the main point is not to replicate each and every piping in the wells but to make the whole think LOOK busy. It's the impression that counts.

 

Keep on the great work,

Cheers,

Quang

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Excellent work so far, and amazing attention to detail. :)

Nice with all the reference pics too! :)

 

Håkan

 

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bUJdP6.jpg

 

tqMD1u.jpg

 

XUSQOF.jpg

 

I had to decrease still a bit more and carefully the inside part of that wing, and now the fitting is nearly OK. As I said in the label of the 3rd photo, I will close the little remaining gap with cyano + Magic Powder.

More soon...

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For the machine guns, below are my main sources. We may notice that every barrel is specific. For the most internal one, the 3rd pic shows that the machine gun tip is quite deep inside the gun barrel. 

There are aftermarket sets for these parts, but I will use my Albion Alloys tubes to scratchbuild them.

More soon...

0gSgnZ.jpg

 

IvNPB4.png

 

wWcfoQ.jpg

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AECkMt.jpg

 

The barrel is made from a 0,4 mm Albion Alloy alu. 

It has been inserted in a 0,7 mm brass tube, the latter placed quite deep in the internal large tube (sorry, you can't see it on this photo).

Furthermore, the squarre gun camera hole has been replaced by a round one, as it has been said above in the thread, and as we may see on the doc 23 (Missouri Armada). 

 

N.B: I made a first dry fit assembly fuselage/ wings and it appears that the Aires wheel bay interferes also with some parts of the fuselage, requiring adjustments...

 

P.S: Thanks a lot to all and especially to Azgaron and Quang for your support 😉. It is very important for me to feel that the efforts I do to show my progress with photos and comments are rewarded by the interest the modelers show toward this step by step.

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I had still more problems to host the Aires wheel bay on the right side.

Furthermore, before glueing the upper right wing on the bottom one, I took a look at the navigation lights:

MWdQuw.png

 

and I decided to drill the Tamiya ones (1,6 mm drill), to replace them by clear plastic ones, that I will paint with transparent paints. I could even try to represent the bulbs... But first, after drilling, I had one more time to decrease the plastic thickness for a more natural look:

W2k506.jpg

 

N.B: I regret John Terrell has vanished. I would have wanted him to confirm if the starboard wingtip should have a green or a blue navigation light on the Missouri...

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A new important step in my build: my wings and fuselage are now cemented together. But before, I had to do corrections for a good fitting:

wWArRN.jpg

 

GEdq5H.jpg

 

Of course, I still have at least 2 or 3 hours of filling and sanding job before the painting job on the outside aircraft...

 

N.B:

1) the bulbs and the "glass" on the navigation lights above will be added after the painting work, for an easier masking strategy (I would be afraid to remove or damage the small clear plastic pads when removing the mask).

2) even if the flaps will be painted separately, I will have, before the fuselage and wings painting job, to see if I can use the very nice AMUR Reaver ones fitted for the Meng kit. The first trials made me a bit sceptical, the flaps being longer but above all wider, as Alexey mentioned above.

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OtcV9Z.jpg

 

I have still some things to do (gun machines, rivets check, etc.) and then I will be able to tackle the next step, the painting job.

Thanks to all for watching and for your kind encouraging words. 

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