Jump to content

1/24 - British Aerospace Sea Harrier FA.2 conversion set (for Airfix kit) by Simian Stuff - released


Homebee

Recommended Posts

Simian Stuff news.

Sources: 

https://www.kitsforcash.com/Latest-News-p5.htm

https://www.kitsforcash.com/SIMIAN-STUFF-CONVERSIONS-c58.htm

 

Quote

Here's a sneak preview of simian stuffs limited edition of 85 1:24th harrier fa2 complete kits, includes resin u/c, amraams, intakes, airbrakes, cockpit detail set, new fa2 conversion and new 190 gallon tanks......awaiting the HUGE decal sheet arriving, we'll all being well have a few at the nationals. As with all the simian line, limited edition, once they're gone, that's it.....no more.

 

1-24-SEA-HARRIER-FA2-COMPLETE-KIT-LIMITED-RUN-OF-85_T_2_D_21712_I_6590_G_0_V_2[sellr]1372x1098[sellr].JPG

 

1-24-SEA-HARRIER-FA2-COMPLETE-KIT-LIMITED-RUN-OF-85_T_2_D_21713_I_6590_G_0_V_2[sellr]1372x1098[sellr].JPG

 

V.P.

 

MattMemory2.jpg

Edited by Homebee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Albeback52 said:

Cue Airfix announcing the release of a 1/24 brand new Sea Harrier.......................................!!!!!!:think::whistle:

I wish!

 

I've never seen Simian Stuff products, but looks like the set could be handy for detailing the FRS.1 kit as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having spoken with Ian Taylor, it's a refreshed version of the old Heritage FA2 conversion with new parts - cockpit, seat, tanks. I believe it is the Airfix FRS1 kit plus the resin and white metal parts, plus the large decal sheet mentioned. 

 

Watch-outs! 

 

The intakes - will need a lot of work as they are based on the kit intakes. In real-life, when the auxiliary intake doors are open around a Harrier's intakes you can see the compressor blades through them. If you think about it logic says you have to, that's where the extra air they allow in has to go! But, with the resin ones you will need to hack away LOTS of resin to achieve this 'see through the holes' effect and separate the intakes from the bell-mouth ahead of the blades. In real-life this forms a continuous surface to the blades from the rear of the auxiliary doors. Personally, I think it is easiest to convert the kit parts and do some scratch-building; which will sharpen your modelling skills way more than sawing and dremelling resin!

 

The U/C legs - will need a lot of extra detailing. Despite being metal you may need to do some strengthening work as the kit will be VERY heavy with the amount of resin and metal in the set fitted.

 

The FRS1 Option - With some work on the instrument panel and side consoles you will be able to use the parts to make an FRS1. The FA2 had two screens on the IP whereas the FRS1 only had one, on the starboard side; with dials on the port side of the panel. The starboard side consoles were also different. If making an FRS1 remember the fuselage extension plug was only fitted to the FA2 and that the FRS1 wing had the leading-edge dog-tooth and a full rack of vortex generators; on the FA2 the dog-tooth was faired in and the second vortex generator from the centre-line removed. One of the development build FRS1s trialled four dummy AMRAAMs on the outer and fuselage pylons - XZ439 coded 2 in the MSG/Barley Grey scheme with pale blue RN fin lettering and 899 winged fist outlines in late 1982 or early 1983. It also had 190 gallon tanks and the ferry wingtips fitted.  AMRAAMs were never carried on in service FRS1s; as far as I know.

 

Without seeing the new parts "in the resin", I'm not able to comment further. If you're interested in purchasing one, I suggest you check out the model at SMW and then source as many FA2 references and walk-arounds as you can! The Kagero TopShots book is a great starting point.

 

I do have a big FA.2 planned in the next few years for which I will repeat what I did when I converted the 24th scale GR1a kit to an FRS1 back in the 80s-90s-00s! - i.e. scratch-building and detailing what I need to. I will use while the old Heritage radome, wheels, and 190s which I have in stock. The fuselage plug I will probably scratch build. At least I have the FRS1 kit as a starting point this time! For decals I'll use the Sea Harrier End of Era sheet the Harrier SIG produced and sold out of 10 years ago now.

 

Hope that helps

 

Cheers

 

Nick 

Edited by NG899
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...