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Boultbee Spitfire Tr.9 - AZ Model 1/72


CedB

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Timely reminder time

 

I bought a bottle of Jamie's thinners at Telford too...

Wonder where I put it?  ?   ?   ?

 

The sanding down question Ced, have you tried a medium'tooth' sanding stick on the leading edges?

 

I've a couple of those 'four different grit' sanding sticks and they work very well on that kind of tight radius curve

 

If it's Vallejo putty a wee spot 'o' spit (oops sorry missis) on the sander almost washes away the unwanted filling agent and if its hardened Humbrol/Green Putty what do you think your sihrsc is for, with a fine sanding afterwards

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17 hours ago, CedB said:

 

Thanks Simon - too modest, as usual!

 

I wasn't being modest, I was being a realist.

 

Anyway, I'll offer a few tips regarding brush painting with Colourcoats:

1) they need to be thoroughly mixed (this applies to all paints but, in my experience, more so to Colourcoats), keep stirring until the colour is uniform. Then stir some more. 

2) you might get away with not thinning them as they are already pretty thin. I don't, usually, thin them because I try to...

3) use thin coats of paint.

 

I try to follow Tony O'Toole's advice by almost dry-brushing the final coat and giving each coat a light sanding before the next.

 

Good luck.

 

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For sanding I would carefully and gently start off with a fine grade or worn piece of wet and dry paper. Then I would deploy the micromesh. The stuff I have is in strips and is wrapped around a hard spongy material. In my experience micromesh doesn’t flatten a bump and is more use for polishing an already sanded surface.

 

Trevor

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20 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

I am always struck by the mixture of technology.  Even now she looks futuristic as a design - surely one of the most beautiful man-made objects ever - but when you get up close and personal she is (of course) full of 1960s technology, which somehow looks utterly incongruous as a result. 

Thanks Crisp - I agree and I'm in two minds about it; it's nice to see lots of dials and switches but, I guess, a green screen digital version would be 'cleaner' and more efficient to match the clean lines of the design. Do have a visit - it's nearly finished :)

 

Thanks Bill :) I do use the approved method for the Vallejo, sucking a pointy Tamiya cotton bud (and remembering not to do it twice on the same end!) Of course I have a wide range of tools and I've plumped for the Micro-mesh belt sander and the Flory polisher. I'm still not using a rough enough grit for the first pass but I'm getting there!

 

Thanks Cookie - the first coat will be on soon :)

 

Thanks Simon, great tips. I did see somewhere that you should stir the tins for 3 minutes (!!!) so I'll probably use the Badger mixer and clean up the bench afterwards! Thin coats, got it :)

 

Thanks Trevor - I agree that MM doesn't (quickly) remove excess material; it's designed to 'take off the bumps' rather than reduce the whole surface. Sanding first then :)

 

 

After a few passes using the suggested methods I thinks she's had her last few spots of Mr Surfacer:

 

38336020304_a07f450751_z.jpg

 

38336028704_9f44189be2_z.jpg

 

Then I just need to clean out the panel lines and inspection plates.

Off to see Star Wars later so I may not get much more done today.

 

I'm pondering the LE stripes. I only have acrylic yellow so I guess I need to do that first (enamel over acrylic OK but not vice versa?) and mask them off?

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I'd always do the yellow first & mask off irrespective of paint type Ced, much easier than trying to cover camo colours with the stuff (even easier if you prime the l.e. in white first!). I always used to abide by the 'oil floats on water' mantra of enamels over acrylics only, but not so sure these days, as long as the enamels are properly dry. I use Klear & other acrylic varnishes over enamels as decal & final finish coats, & , touch wood, they work fine....(famous last words!) I've also recently sprayed the camo on the top side of my 1/144 Beverley using WEM enamels, and couldn't be bothered to mask off the underside which I'd already sprayed with black acrylic, and I've just repainted the oversprayed enamels with brushed on black acrylic & it seems OK so far...touch wood!!

 

Keith

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There's nothing inherently dangerous about acrylic resin binders which will hurt enamels. What's dangerous is that "acrylic" means pretty much nothing nowadays as far as model paint is concerned - it ranges from the rubbery water based acrylics (which are totally benign against enamel - that's why they rub off models when touched or peel off in sheets when masked) to the rather aggressive acrylic lacquers to the ferociously aggressive acrylic aerosols. The word acrylic no longer tells the modeller anything they need to know about the paint. The behaviour, required thinner, health precautiouns, smell, surface preparation needed and inter-brand compatibility are all aspects governed by what else is in the paint - not the acrylic resin binder liquid part.

 

It's not the acrylic bit to watch for, but the thinner its designed to work with. If it smells hot (like MRP) then be careful with the coats as it has teeth. Simple alcohol based acrylics like Tamiya is fine.

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Great - thanks Keith and Jamie, great tips and explanations :)

 

I've 'done a Joe' ( @Fatboydim ) this morning and spent some time polishing, then cleaning out the panel lines etc with various tools. An unusually shiny finish for me but, if people are watching this as a Colourcoats 'demo', I suggest you look elsewhere! Stew et al do much better...

 

25182330358_560fde284b_z.jpg

 

24187968447_e4d0e35c1a_z.jpg

 

LE stripes next then.

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Nicely tidied in and amongst that labyrinth of lines Ced. :thumbsup2: One of those jobs that seems to resemble some species of aptitude test.

Enjoy the movie - whisking the family off to it myself tomorrow evening!

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Spitty looking spiffing Ced, can't wait to see her in colour

 

I have never had a problem laying acrylics over enamels

As long as the enamels have completely dried/flashed off all their vaporous parts

Acrylics have always sat benignly on top with no reactions

 

I must be doing it wrong 😕

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I too have never had a problem painting acrylic over enamel, I always basecoat with Humbrol 33 before painting Tamiya metallics or using Mr Hobby Burnt Iron.

Also, I always paint the yellow leading edge over the camouflage colours but I paint the yellow tips on propellers first... make what you will of that.

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My :2c: : I normally paint whatever kind of stripes (yellow leading edges, white or sky bands, yellow noses, red stripes) on top of the camouflage. I spray a white base coat for yellow and red, and a light grey one for white (and I prefer Tamiya paints for this kind of job).

However, like Simon here, I also first paint the yellow tips on propellers (white first, then yellow) before spraying the blade color(s). I think it's just because I find it easier to mask the blade tips rather than the whole thing - that's my excuse, at least :wink::D

 

Ciao

Edited by giemme
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16 hours ago, TheBaron said:

Nicely tidied in and amongst that labyrinth of lines Ced. :thumbsup2: One of those jobs that seems to resemble some species of aptitude test.

Enjoy the movie - whisking the family off to it myself tomorrow evening!

Thanks Tony - I hope you enjoy the film. No spoilers but effects are great, as expected. For me the story line was a bit thin and spoilt by bossy, emotional women. Especially the skinny one. I've noticed this lately in US scripts, starting with 'Criminal Minds' that used to be one of my favourites. FBI Behavioural Analysis Unit, what could be better? Well, not spending time talking about 'your feelings' when there's a serial killer to catch. Man up and get on with it, for goodness sake! End rant.

14 hours ago, perdu said:

Spitty looking spiffing Ced, can't wait to see her in colour

 

I have never had a problem laying acrylics over enamels

As long as the enamels have completely dried/flashed off all their vaporous parts

Acrylics have always sat benignly on top with no reactions

 

I must be doing it wrong 😕

14 hours ago, Beard said:

I too have never had a problem painting acrylic over enamel, I always basecoat with Humbrol 33 before painting Tamiya metallics or using Mr Hobby Burnt Iron.

Also, I always paint the yellow leading edge over the camouflage colours but I paint the yellow tips on propellers first... make what you will of that.

14 hours ago, giemme said:

My :2c: : I normally paint whatever kind of stripes (yellow leading edges, white or sky bands, yellow noses, red stripes) on top of the camouflage. I spray a white base coat for yellow and red, and a light grey one for white (and I prefer Tamiya paints for this kind of job).

However, like Simon here, I also first paint the yellow tips on propellers (white first, then yellow) before spraying the blade color(s). I think it's just because I find it easier to mask the blade tips rather than the whole thing - that's my excuse, at least :wink::D

 

Ciao

Thanks Bill, Simon and Giorgio - that's done it for me - I'll do the stripes afterwards; it saves two sets of masking!

Funnily enough I changed to spraying the prop tips first after seeing others do this on BM, but I find it much easier to mask the blade rather than the tip - small and very fiddly. I've also painted the blades already.

 

I shall try white primer / yellow over the enamels then and the acrylic prop blades.

I like to experiment...

 

Off to 'The Mall' this morning so maybe later.

 

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I'm with G on the propeller tips, but I usually paint the leading edge yellow first, although there won't be any on my current Spitfire.

I haven't had trouble painting acrylic over enamel, but I have had painting enamel over Tamiya fine white primer, probably my fault though.

 

John

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4 hours ago, CedB said:

I'll do the stripes afterwards; it saves two sets of masking!

 

I'm missing something here! How does that work Ced? If you want to put a white primer coat down, either spray (or brush) the whole airframe with white primer, or if you'd rather prime with grey, just paint the area of the L.E. white. When dry cover it with yellow. When dry mask off the L.E. stripes. Then spray the camo colours - one set of masking....?? :shrug:

 

Keith

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Thanks John - another bit of reassurance, appreciated :)

Thanks Keith - ah, my fault. For some reason I had in my head I'd need to mask the LE, do the yellow, mask THAT off and then do the camo to prevent the yellow effecting the camo colours. I didn't look forward to a narrow piece of tape down the LE. :)

 

I've decided I'll proceed with no primer so the first coat went on the bottom:

 

38194439895_ca3e117baf_z.jpg

Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Stirred for 3 minutes with a Tamiya stirrer as, as Simon said, the paint is nice and thin anyway and I didn't want to get it all over the place with the Badger.

I don't have a nice flat sable brush of the appropriate size so I used the one you can see in the picture.

Thin coats and I must say I'm impressed - it goes on really nicely and self-levels well. I can't see any problem with brush marks.

I can see I forgot to do the tailplanes. I'll do that now.

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Looking good Ced! I too paint the prop first, then mask and paint the tips. I find it far easier since all my props require a wood finish and it's far easier to mask that to paint the tips.

 

Ian

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"Stirred for 3 minutes with a Tamiya stirrer as, as Simon said, the paint is nice and thin anyway and I didn't want to get it all over the place with the Badger....

 

....Thin coats and I must say I'm impressed - it goes on really nicely and self-levels well. I can't see any problem with brush marks"

 

I find it very easy to use, as you say it requires a good mix, just purchased a couple of IKEA coffee stirrers to mix it up - what could possibly go wrong with that?

Cracking paint (my latest batch is sitting in Inverurie Post Office waiting for me to collect - great service thank you Jamie) and the thinner is good kit as well.  

 

 

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Thanks Gents :)

I couldn't post yesterday morning before we went off to meet the future in-laws of the daughter - is there a term for that? Hmmm.

 

A second coat. I dipped the brush in thinners before applying the paint and again it went on smoothly:

 

38204488545_69da369dd0_z.jpg

 

38204503725_0a7c57ee6b_z.jpg

 

I think I'll sand a bit with Micro-mesh and then one more thinned coat should do it.

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Reckon you're on top of that job Ced: it is all brushing up most decently around the nethers there now.

Future in-laws of your daughter? :hmmm:At a remove from yourself does that make them in fact outlaws? 

Tony

 

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