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DAG058

Has anyone used Hataka Paints?

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I am thinking of trying Hataka paints but I've not heard much about them. Has anyone tried them? If so how did they perform? What did you thin them with? I generally use Tamiya and Vallejo Model Colour so how do they compare?

 

I see there are three types of set available; red, orange and blue. I think the orange a lacquers and blue are acrylic. Any advice will be appreciated, thanks! 

 

 

Edited by DAG058

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First impressions are that it's good paint. I've used Red Line with a brush and had good results without thinning it with anything at all. I also have some of the Blue Line (optimised for brush) stuff...must get round to trying it.

 

There were some bad reviews just after its introduction but the problem was addressed quite quickly so check the date on any adverse reaction to it.

 

John.

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Oh yes, it's closer to Vallejo than Tamiya in terms of usability and the colour accuracy looks better than both.

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I bought some when they first came out a few years ago and they were completely hopeless and went straight in the bin. That got the Hataka paints a very bad reputation at that point but I believe they are very much improved now. The water based acrylics (Red label) should be similar in use to AK Interactive and Vallejo so if you are used to working with either of those Brands you should get on well with them.

I don't stock them but M.A.N. Models carry a good stock of them.

 

Duncan B

 

 

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Sorry for the hijack Dag, but answers to my question may have a relevance to you. I use a hairy stick at the moment but will be trying an airbrush in a month or so. I need paint now but does anyone know if the @HATAKA OFFICIALBlue Line series (optimised for brush) can be used with an airbrush or can the Red Line series (optimised for airbrush) be used with a hairy stick. Thanks.

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Tried redline with a brush, brushed fine except the metelic shade in the set which left brush marks. Like to know how the blue lines go as I'd like to get the isreali set, especially the metalic shade. 

Edited by PhantomBigStu

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Thanks for all the feedback!

 

I should have added I plan on mainly airbrushing with them. The main appeal for me is variety of the sets, they cover a lot of genres and not having to individually search out all the colours. I think be giving them a bash, all I need to do is decide whether I want to lacquers or stick with acrylics! Any more advice on this will be appreciated.

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On 10/22/2017 at 10:39 AM, johnd said:

The Red Line can be brushed, it just needs an extra coat or two.

 

John.

 

On 10/22/2017 at 2:46 PM, PhantomBigStu said:

Tried redline with a brush, brushed fine except the metelic shade in the set which left brush marks. Like to know how the blue lines go as I'd like to get the isreali set, especially the metalic shade. 

Thanks, guys. 

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Many people bought Hataka Red Line Acrylics and are complaining about fast clogging of the airbrush needle. I find their paint sets very appealing and all what I have seen and heard about is, that their tones are quite accurate. Half a year ago, I bought the Modern Luftwaffe Paint Set Vol. 4 HTK-AS66. With their original thinner, I also experienced the clogging and since then, I tried many other thinning formulas for airbrushing with mixed success. I found their Lacquer Thinner quite good for airbrushing the acrylics, but adhesion was quite poor. I think, that I have found a very good manner of processing now, which should enable anybody doing free hand camouflage schemes without any problems quickly. A week ago, I held a workshop at the SMC 2017 near Eindhoven/ NL and all participants have replicated the easy workability successfully, which proved me that my excellent results were not gained by chance.

 

Now, I would like to show how it works nicely. My airbrush of choice is the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR, which I have now since 5 years in use and I am very satisfied about. For this trial, I have fitted the 0,2mm needle/ nozzle combo, which is quite worn and looks more 0,3mm. But it is still working nicely.

 

At first, I gave the test object a coat of RAL7030 Stone Grey mixed with the brand new MRP Thinner MRP-AT in a ratio of 2:1. I added a drop of Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, which works wonderfully. The new MRP Acrylic Thinner chimes together with Hataka Red Line colours nicely. The paint dries quickly and can be handled after 15 minutes. However, I let it dry overnight for forther treatment. Then, it can be smoothended with 6000 or 8000 grade Micromesh or just wiping with the finge

 

poTPQSYqj

Edited by Drareg Naitsirhc

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As previously said, my goal is to produce a nice free hand sprayed camouflage pattern within a short time period. Next step is to mask the part, which shotd remain in RAL7030 Stone Grey. Masking and free hand spraying is looking quite contradictory, but see later what happens.

 

Now, I am mixing RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Acrylic Thinner 2:1 and one or two drops of Flow Improver. A 1:1 mix also works and gives a smoother finish, but does not cover as good and need more coats. Now, I am spraying the Basalt Grey into the non masked area. Please avoid to spray directly onto the boarder of the masking tape. Apply only a slight misty coat here to avoid a buildup of too much paint here, which results in a nasty step later.

 

poXeSDyXj

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Here the result after lifting the masking tape. Please note the misty coat along the edges, which shows the demarcation line quite easily for the next step.

 

pmpJ75nLj

 

 

The ingredients for the following treatment are visible on this picture too. Now, I want to achieve a realistic smooth blending of the light and darker grey tones. With the original Hataka Thinner this is very tricky and time consuming job due to the feared tip clogging. I have experimented with a lot of thinners and fluids recently, but the new MRP Thinner changed life significantly. Now, I am using a highly diluted RAL7030 mixed with a formula, I call the "witches´brew". At first, I mix a small amount of Hataka RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Thinner in a 1:1 ratio and stirring it thoroughly. Then, I am adding the double amount of Mr. Levelling Thinner and again,   a complete one minute stir is essential. Finally, a few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner are aery dded and again, another well executed stir follows. The mix should be highly fluid and sprays beautifully. I am now spraying along the edge into the dary gray area.

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The result is looking convincing and was achieved in a very short time. The "witches brew" is very nice for fine line work with the airbrush and cloggig does not happen at all. It also can be used for large area painting, but due to its low viscosity it does not cover well and many coats are necessary. However, the finish is very smooth and adhesion on plastic is very good. Since it contains some thinners of the hot type, one might assume that the fumes will smell aggressively, but it is not the case fortunately.

 

pnTHZ5udj

 

 

 

 

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A rought paint : thinner ratio of the "witches´brew" is:

 

1 part Hataka Red Line paint

1 part MRP Acrylic Thinner

4 parts Mr. Levelling Thinner

2 parts Tamiya Lacquer Thinner

 

For the future, I will buy more Hataka Red Line sets and hope, that the line will be expanded. There are still some serious gaps to fill, like modern French Armed Forces and  Swiss Air Force paint sets to name but a few.

 

Please try this for yourself and share your experience here. Have fun!

 

Here two more pics which show the nice results, which took just a few minutes of time:

 

pocexdCwj

 

 

poLqBzQcj

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Bumping this thread, as I'm painting a black/white/grey F-16C aggressor soon. I normally paint with vallejo and acrylic is a must. Are these red line paints ok now? Can I just use a bit of UMP thinner and vallejo flow enhancer and be good to go? 

 

This is the set I'm looking to get:

 

https://www.emodels.co.uk/hataka-usaf-aggressor-squadron-paint-set-vol-1-as29.html

 

 

Thanks! 

Edited by planehazza

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As for the red line, I'm not sure. I have just recently tried the orange line lacquers. I've been thinning with Mr Color thinners. They go down a treat, it's very nice paint. The colour match looks pretty good to me.

 

The pure thinners clean the airbrush out nicely. It's the first time I've paint with lacquers and I think I might be a convert. Just make sure you wear a mask etc as it has a bit of a stink about it!

Edited by DAG058

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25 minutes ago, DAG058 said:

As for the red line, I'm not sure. I have just recently tried the orange line lacquers. I've been thinning with Mr Color thinners. They go down a treat, it's very nice paint. The colour match looks pretty good to me.

 

The pure thinners clean the airbrush out nicely. It's the first time I've paint with lacquers and I think I might be a convert. Just make sure you wear a mask etc as it has a bit of a stink about it!

Got you, thanks. I exclusively spray acrylics as I spray in the house without a booth, and just a mask and open window for protection. Oils I use but for washes and weathering only. 

 

For those reasons lacquers especially are a no go for me. 

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17 hours ago, planehazza said:

Got you, thanks. I exclusively spray acrylics as I spray in the house without a booth, and just a mask and open window for protection. Oils I use but for washes and weathering only. 

 

For those reasons lacquers especially are a no go for me. 

 

To be honest mate the hataka orange line with their own orange brand thinner is quite low odour for a lacquer paint.

Nothing at all like mr color and self levelling thinners etc. 

 

If you are close enough I’d be happy to demo for you? 

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53 minutes ago, Tony Oliver said:

 

To be honest mate the hataka orange line with their own orange brand thinner is quite low odour for a lacquer paint.

Nothing at all like mr color and self levelling thinners etc. 

 

If you are close enough I’d be happy to demo for you? 

Hi Tony, 

 

Thanks very much for the offer. Mr colour and their SLTs are a range I'd love to try but until I get a bigger house with a proper man cave, enamel, lacquers, and such are completely out of the question, especially with the house being the girlfriend's and not mine ha. 

 

It's not just the smell it's the toxicity. Whilst I'm not under the false impression that water based acrylics are safe to breathe, I believe they're a lot safer than lacquers etc. I'm currently only using a mask with no airflow other than an open window on the other side of the room :(

 

I hope you don't think I'm being ungrateful or single minded, I just think it best I stick to acrylics for now. 

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On 7/31/2018 at 1:46 PM, DAG058 said:

As for the red line, I'm not sure. I have just recently tried the orange line lacquers. I've been thinning with Mr Color thinners. They go down a treat, it's very nice paint. The colour match looks pretty good to me.

 

The pure thinners clean the airbrush out nicely. It's the first time I've paint with lacquers and I think I might be a convert. Just make sure you wear a mask etc as it has a bit of a stink about it!

Since the Hataka Orange Line lacquer thinner is almost impossible to find here in the USA, I was curious how Mr Color lacquer thinners worked. You say they work really nice? Do you use the Mr Color Levelling Thinner or just their normal thinner?

 

Larry

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5 hours ago, ReccePhreak said:

Since the Hataka Orange Line lacquer thinner is almost impossible to find here in the USA, I was curious how Mr Color lacquer thinners worked. You say they work really nice? Do you use the Mr Color Levelling Thinner or just their normal thinner?

 

Larry

I have the RAF set, I haven't used them on a kit as yet but did try them out using Mr Leveling Thinner and they sprayed very nice. They cleaned up from the airbrush using normal lacquer thinner.

I only thin with MLT but would expect they will thin and spray ok with any good lacquer thinner

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