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Spitfire Mk IX MH434


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On Saturday it didn’t rain and we had the heating on for a while ( boiler in my man cave ) so the humidity reduced enough for me to spray the yellow stripes. Yesterday I removed the masking, safe in the knowledge that I had applied a coat of Kleer to protect the roundels I ripped off the tape, and with it a portion of the starboard roundel ahead of the wing walk line :angry:! I will not post any more photos until I have replaced the damaged roundel, replaced the undercarriage leg and attached the cannon barrel fairings. On the positive side, I have found a nicely ‘ blown ‘ sliding canopy to replace the kit item.

 

John:angrysoapbox.sml:

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  • 6 months later...

I bought some Flory washes last year and this is my first attempt at using them. The Australian Mk VIIIs operated in harsh environments and so I assume would have been pretty heavily weathered. I decided to practise on something first and found a Tamiya Buffalo in my ‘ nearly complete ‘ box and decided to use that. I used a mixture of Grime and Mud which was liberally brushed on and left for a couple of hours.I found that the wash had “ beaded “ in places so the result after rubbing down is a little patchy and streaky. I have watched  Phil Flory’s video again so I think I now know where I went wrong. I will probably wipe everything off and start again before I proceed to the Mk VIII but would also be happy to hear any advice from anyone who has used these washes.

IMG_1837

 

IMG_1836

Fortunately MH434 will require only minimal weathering as it was kept in ‘ display ‘ condition.

 

That’s it for now, stay safe everyone.

 

John. :pilot:

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John, I've never used Flory washes, but if they work anything like other washes, aren't they supposed to be applied on top of a gloss coat? In my experience, even tempera washes  (which are basically dirt water), tend to pool and bead in places and there's no way to completely remove them, if applied on a flat paint coat...

 

Ciao

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42 minutes ago, giemme said:

John, I've never used Flory washes, but if they work anything like other washes, aren't they supposed to be applied on top of a gloss coat?

It depends on the effect you're after.

Sometimes a satin finish gives more grip (Flory washes are clay based), so more 'sticks' to the paint/varnish.
Good part is that you can take it off with a damp/wet paper towel or cotton bud. 
Judging from the pictures, this is a nearly flat finish (?). If you want to clean it up, a bit more moisture will probably do the trick.

My first try looked similar, turned out I was too gentle/careful cleaning.

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Can't help with the washes John, as I used them once, didn't like them so put them away in a box somewhere. But I have to say it seems a shame that that nice looking Buffalo has been relegated to being a test mule....!! :(

 

Keith

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Thanks guys. It was applied on a gloss finish, probably Tamiya X22 but it does seem to have toned it down quite a lot, especially the ‘ night ‘ side. More practise I think.

Don’t worry Keith, the Buffalo will eventually find it’s way to RFI.

 

John

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I've used the Flory washes on a few of my models having seen the great effect that @The Spadgent gets with them.

Like the video I splash it on all over, let it dry and then use dampened kitchen towel to wipe it off - most of it actually.

I don't think it matters what finish they go onto but obviously this will effect the amount that 'sticks'. It'll wipe off, whatever.

As alt said above they're clay based so need a good shake beforehand, and during long sessions.

HTH :) 

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Thanks Ced.

I’ve been thinking about this and as far as I remember the model was brush painted with  xtracolour and given a coat of Kleer which was also brush painted. The patchy finish might be the result of it  not being as smooth as if airbrushed, but I’m going to try ‘ reactivating ‘ the clay and spreading it more evenly, then on to the Mk VIII which was also brush painted!

 

John

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It should be fine John - I think the wash will, er, wash off even after a long drying session.

I use small bits of folded kitchen towel and, like Phil Flory, lick the paper - just make sure you keep turning it over as licking dirty paper is not recommended!

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Only if you smile.

I’ve done some redistributing on the Buffalo underside and it looks better to me, so I have sloshed a load of Dark Dirt on the MkVIII and will give it some time to dry. it’s still ‘ beaded ‘ a little despite adding a drop of  washing up liquid ( perhaps not enough or the wrong brand ) so we’ll see what happens later. 

 

john

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So this is what I’ve managed to achieve so far with the Mk VIII.

IMG_1855

Underside and nose covered in the wash

IMG_1861

Port wing after rubbing with spit moistened kitchen roll and cotton bud.

 

I think the secret of this game is to know just how much wash to remove, which will hopefully come with practice, and also to ensure that you have some panel lines left for it to fill!

As this is the Arii/Otaki kit it did not have the characteristic ‘ gull wing ‘ so I used a resin Aeroclub insert, but in getting everything smooth I have obliterated most of the panel lines in that area and not re-instated them, so there is nowhere for the wash to stay. Stupid boy. 

 

That’s it for now. Stay safe everyone.

 

John. :pilot:

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