Correct paint/clear-coat types... acrylic vs enamel

[Eugene]

Hi all

 

I’m still working on my first project (Mk1 Spitfire) since getting back to modelling

 

I actually have 2 on the go so I can practice/learn as I go! One’s already ruined but grainy paint!

 

I am using Humbrol acrylics (brushed), but I just wanted to make sure I have the process for painting/decals/clear-coat/weathering right... and am using the right stuff (ie, acrylics then enamels or all acrylics?) 

 

So, is this his the correct process...?

 

- paint model with Humbrol acrylic

- apply decals (to use Humbrol decal fix or not?)

- apply Humbrol clear acrylic (or should it be enamel over acrylic?)

- apply Humbrol weathering wash

- apply final coat of Humbrol clear (or enamel?)

 

thanks all!

 

 

[Black Knight]

Firstly, ~I'd advise you to avoid Humbrol enamel varnishes; they go yellow over time. not a long time either

You can put acrylic over enamel or enamel over acrylic; just make sure the paint is dry

 

Use of decal fix really depends on the decals.

Current, new decals don't really need decal fix. Just use a damp bit of kitchen paper towel to press [gently] the decals down into panel lines etcetera

Gloss varnish before applying the decals; varnish over the decals after they have dried

[iSteve]

This is the order I use, as do many others:

1. wash the surface of your kit before painting (optional)
2. putty and sand gaps and blemishes
3. prime the surface for painting with primer of your choice (optional, though recommended. You may want to give the primer a light sanding for a smooth, clean surface, which is also optional.) This is the step where you again check the surface for gaps and blemishes that may require more putty and sanding. After sanding, touch-up with primer.
4. apply your paint
5. apply gloss coat before decals for best adhesion
6. apply decals
7. apply gloss coat to seal in decals and prep for weathering
8. apply weathering
9. seal with final clear coat: gloss, semi-gloss/satin or flat as per your preference

These are the basics; not all steps are necessary, but that should be the order of application.

Edited October 8, 2017 by iSteve

[Space Ranger]

When "acrylics" were all water-based, the rule was: "acrylic over enamel over lacquer." However, with today's paint formulations, the rule is subject to change. This is because today there are acrylic enamels and acrylic lacquers, "acrylic" referring to either the binder or the pigment. Tamiya's "acrylics," for example, are technically solvent-based enamels using alcohol as the solvent. Alcohol is indeed a solvent, although mild in comparison to other solvents used in enamels, and it is miscible with water, leading many to think Tamiya's acrylics are water-based.

 

Today a modeler also must be a paint chemist. I'd suggest experimenting with your chosen paints and clear finishes and paying close attention to their chemistry, while allowing the paint, whether enamel or "acrylic," to thoroughly dry/cure before applying any clear coat. My rule of thumb is: If I can still smell the paint when I sniff the model, it ain't dry yet!

Edited October 8, 2017 by Space Ranger
Add'l. info.

[Marvel Onkey]

On 10/8/2017 at 11:47 AM, Black Knight said:

Current, new decals don't really need decal fix. Just use a damp bit of kitchen paper towel to press [gently] the decals down into panel lines etcetera

 

I don't 100% agree- I find some new decals will behave nicely using this approach, others need a bit more encouragement to conform to the surface they need to bed down into, even ones from the same decal sheet. As with most things it's down to trial and error and developing an approach that suits you. 

 

Otherwise Black Knights 10 steps are exactly the process I follow.

 

I don't use decalfix for fixing decals, in the past I've had it react badly with underlying Humbrol acrylic paints so now I use Microscale decal solutions which I get on better with.

 

As an aside, I do use decalfix sometimes as part of the weathering process- see the Humbrol youtube channel for a useful little video on this technique.

[Drift]

I only use Tamiya Markfit for decals, we dont get Microsol or Microscale here. 

[Smithy]

On 10/10/2017 at 4:33 PM, Marvel Onkey said:

 

I don't use decalfix for fixing decals, in the past I've had it react badly with underlying Humbrol acrylic paints so now I use Microscale decal solutions which I get on better with.

 

 

I've used Microscale Set and Sol (mostly Sol just by itself) for years but having shifted country I picked up some Decalfix recently and used it for the first time several days ago. I am less than impressed. Whilst it did not affect the gloss coat (Pledge Extra Protection - the Continent's equivalent of Pledge Multi Surface) it crazed the decal (Tamiya) and left a glossy residue. Luckily as this was the first time I used it only on one decal so the damage was minimal. But suffice to say I'm now waiting on a bottle of Micro Sol to arrive before continuing with any more decalling! Definitely returning to Microscale as I never had any problems whatsoever with them.

 

To other first time users of Decalfix I'd suggest doing some testing first before attempting to decal a whole model with the stuff.

[Eugene]

Thanks all - really helpful!

 

 

So, Smithy, you use Pledge Extra Protection as a gloss? Is that THIS stuff and can I just brush it on neat?

[Smithy]

14 hours ago, Eugene said:

Thanks all - really helpful!

 

 

So, Smithy, you use Pledge Extra Protection as a gloss? Is that THIS stuff and can I just brush it on neat?

 

I believe that is the same stuff. In continental Europe and Scandinavia it's marketed as Pledge Extra Protection Wax (it's not actually a wax nor does it contain any), it's the milky/translucent replacement for Klear. I've only just started using it as I didn't bring my original Klear over with me when I shifted country but I find that it behaves very much the same as Klear. The big difference is that it's a milky colour but dries completely clear. I've used it exactly the same way as I used to apply Klear, hand painted with a brush and it goes on fine and self levels. I've also dipped a canopy in it and it came out beautifully transparent just like it would with the old Klear. Very happy with the stuff.

 

HTH,

 

Tim