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FBA H flying boat 1/72


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Hi All,

        Late on parade again with life getting in the way. Was debating on starting the Roden Felixstowe but not in the right frame of mind for such a large project. Instead I'm going for the other end of the scale with the FBA. I've used this method once before when I scratched a Russian Grigorovich flying boat. The hull is carved from balsa with the cockpit section cut out and built up using card, strip and spare parts. The wings will be cut from card and a Hisso engine remains from a Curtiss Jenny build. Have started on the fuselage. In short, I ran off a couple of copies of the datafile plans and cut out the relevant sections. Initially the fuselage profiles are stuck to the balsa block and the shape pencilled around. Then with a sharp knife draw around the template and then progressively deepen the cut until the excess can be removed. It's not difficult and the watchword is patience, i.e. don't rush. Progress so far. 

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Regards, Steve

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Hmm, very interesting! I am looking forward to progress on this one! It looks as though it will be a bit of a challenge, especially the wings and their fuselage mountings. 

 

All the best,

 

Ray

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Hi Steve,

 

Welcome to the GB! So, here we have another fully scratch built project! Very courageous and for sure very interesting to follow!

 

I wish you the best of luck and look forward to seeing more posts. The initial work is very promising!

 

Will it be in French or Italian markings?

 

Cheers

 

Jaime

 

 

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Thanks for the comments Guys. It will be French because I have French roundels in the supplies. I've never been able to get a hold of green, white , red Italian roundels although the less common red, white green are available. 

 

Regards, Steve

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This is a wonderful addition to the GB even if it is a bit late! Another scratch build will be a must for me to follow. I do like your method for marking out the fuselage for carving: as you write that is not so difficult if you take a little time and patience. I am using basswood for my model as it is so much stronger than balsa but shapes equally easily.

 

P

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Thanks P. This is my last block of balsa so will be looking for a replacement. I fancy trying basswood which I imagine should be more resilient to knocks during construction. As for the FBA I've managed to shape the fuselage and then cut out a block for the cockpit section. A floor of plastic card, two seats, rudder bar and a control column will surffice. I'll add some Lewis mags in the front cockpit and possibly a hand held camera. These can be added to the bulkhead between the cockpits. Two fuselage sides are needed to fill the gap and these were sliced off the block that had been cut out. It had been shaped as part of the fuselage before removal so I knew it would fit in.About a tenth of inch was cut off the top as the upper decking is made from 80thou card. The cockpit holes were cut and shaped and a slice of balsa was cut off the top side to accommodate this piece. Next I'll fill the indentations in the wood before applying liquid CA to reinforce the balsa surface.

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Regards, Steve

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That hull has shaped really well Steve. If you were using basswood I am not sure whether you would have been able to remove and replace the sides quite so easily, but the wood certainly resists indentation if it is knocked. Lovely internal detail for the cockpit - this looks like it could be another project to go on to my ever expanding list...... Oh no!

 

P

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Thanks Guys. Added mags and a camera to the front cockpit and stuck them to the bulkhead. Then stuck the cockpit decking on using CA gel. When dry it was back to the files to make everything match. I've used Plasto on the gaps and some small dents and will smoothdown later before applying liquid CA to the balsa surfaces. The wings were cut from 40 thou card which had been submitted to the pipe and hot water treatment. The ribs are scored with a sharp blade. Tail unit still to cut but its looking like a floatplane now.

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Regards, Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you kindly. Had a few problems with internet access so a quick catch up. Wings painted and roundels added. These came from a Revell Morane and a Microscale set that must be nearly 40 years old. Gave both a dose of liquid decal film and success was achieved. The Revell needed sunlight treatment to get rid of yellowing but very impressed with ye olde products. The hull was treated to several coats of liquid CA and then given a diluted coat of Hu 113. As long as the panel lines can be seen through the paint I'll be happy. The lower wing sits on top of four short struts. I drilled short holes into the fuselage and added CA gel into the hole before positioning the strut. A lot of measuring was needed before this stage but eventually the wing sat reasonably level. Next was the engine support frame. I made an oblong from thin strip and used strut material for the legs. I had a couple of short measures but eventually got there. The engine is the spare Hispano from the Olimp Jenny. It's pretty basic as it's intended to be enclosed so I added exhaust pipes, manifold pipes, extended the crankshaft a little and a couple of round articles that might be alternators? The fuel tank will be fixed to the frame. Since this burst of activity I've been preparing for the top wing. Struts will be thin strip and I'be made the radiator from 60 thou card. Outrigger floats have been carved from balsa and the tail plane from 30 thou card. Now all I need is the nerve to get stuck in.

Regards, Steve

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Edited by stevehed
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Thanks All,

               Bit the bullet and tackled the upper wing. Had the location holes out by a smidgeon and had to redrill. The engine framework is a great help with these type of aircraft and I added the inner most interplane struts before up ending onto the wing. Once set into position it was a case of cutting the struts. Haven't got much Contrail left so had to use Evergreen 020 x 040 strip. Will rig the wings next before tackling the tail.

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Regards, Steve

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Wow Steve, you have only been on this for a couple of weeks and it is nearly finished! I agree that having engine platforms between the wings makes the fitting of the top wing on these pusher types eaiser than on conventional tractor biplanes. Looking forward to seeing this one completed.

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Looks very good with the top wing and engine in place! Looking forward to the rigging! Are you brush painting the struts?

 

Cheers

 

Jaime

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Yes sanding the corners from strip to make struts is fun... especially when there are a large number or they are long. I will be using 120 x 40 for the larger struts on the Dornier and may reinforce them with brass rod - at the moment I am still thinking about it - in fact the longer the better really!

 

P

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Nearly there. Radiator had to be fixed before rigging the wings with invisible thread. There's an inlet and outlet pipe behind the grille, honest, and that is the limit of my AMS when nothing can be seen. Jaime, the struts were brush painted. Hand is reasonably steady so can get away with it at present. Usually find that if I pre-paint I have to scrape away sections for the glue and invariably take off too much which leaves difficult areas requiring final touch ups. Not much difference between the methods in either case. Tail unit went together better than expected. First the rear central upright was fixed into a pre-drilled hole. The central piece made a triangle and the elevators had a hole drilled in the centre which allowed the part to sit on top of the upright. A touch of cement helped to restrict lateral movement while I added the struts which were measured and located individually into pre-drilled locating holes. Eventually when all parts were in situ the tail unit, minus the rudder, locked into position. Next were the floats which are carved from balsa and treated with CA as the fuselage. I used 20 thou, 0.5mm, rod for the metal struts. Grooves were cut into the wood with a razor saw and then widened with a file so that the rod could sit in the floats and represent the wrap around originals. Last act to date was the front gun ring. When I opened a tube of CA gel for this build there was a circular piece that came away from the plastic cap when it was twisted off. It looked to be the right diameter for a gun ring but was too deep. It proved to be within acceptable tolerances diameter wise and I managed to cut it in half depth wise. Painted metallic silver it has been glued into place as the front gun ring.

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Regards, Steve

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