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On ‎21‎/‎09‎/‎2017 at 10:27 PM, Tony Oliver said:

 

Yeah I have read that before, but liquid gravity isn't lead as far as I am aware? And they recommend superglue themselves for securing it? I will email them and ask perhaps. 

 

This will be long sold on by then anyways ;) 

Love the build.

 

Just wondering from your comment above do you "sell" your finished kits?

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5 hours ago, Winenut said:

Love the build.

 

Just wondering from your comment above do you "sell" your finished kits?

 

Yes mate, either sell (auction from 99p) or give away, ask @Valkyrie 

Unfortunately when the cabinet gets full some things have to go to make room for the new. 

If I were single then there would be kits everywhere. Well the built kind anyway... 😂

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4 hours ago, Tony Oliver said:

 

Yes mate, either sell (auction from 99p) or give away, ask @Valkyrie 

Unfortunately when the cabinet gets full some things have to go to make room for the new. 

If I were single then there would be kits everywhere. Well the built kind anyway... 😂

I followed Tony's work and his MiGs are exquisite. I happened to comment that all I wanted for Christmas was a MiG 15 built by Tony Oliver... I received a work of absolute art perfection, I still cannot take my eyes from it! The pictures on here do not do the work justice, even holding it I could not believe it, simply stunning. And thanks again Tony. I will be keeping my eyes peeled for these art works being auctioned. I might actually stop modelling and just buy Tony's. 

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Not much to report, paint has cured for a couple days so now a pre decal gloss (gauzy) has been applied. Finish of the paint was smooth enough for decals but wanted a protective layer too. 

Also prior to gloss some small details were picked out by brush in mig ammo acrylics eg polished metal for chrome struts, burnt iron to touch up exhausts and rubber for tires etc. 

 

IMG_1359.jpg

 

Decals on over the weekend hopefully! 

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Excellent work so far, Tony! I like those muted colours the Luftwaffe used late in the war for their fighters. The Hasegawa Schwalbe I'm working on is going to be in brown and green (I forget the RLM numbers). I suspect it will be joined by this kit in the not too distant future.

 

Regards,

 

Jason 

Edited by Learstang
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Ok so a bit more about the fuselage band decal. With hindsight (the most amazing thing ever in the universe) I should have trusted that decal would fit. 

 

So the decal wraps around the bottom and joins along the top & at the tailfin leading egde. 

When placed with the colours on the panel lines the decal wasn’t long enough to join up.  (I assumed that they would have painted the colour sections to match the fuselage construction to make easy demarcations?)

 

So I moved the decal back a mm or so to take advantage of the narrowing fuselage and rotated it slightly on its vertical axis to help it join up at the fin edge. 

 

Once all the setting solutions started taking effect to soften & stretch it (now too late to move it without destruction) it turned out there was enough material to have made a better join along the top. As you can see from the amount of overlap and folds there. 

 

Hopefully some micromeshing to reduce the ridges and a good gloss with smooth this area out. 

 

Plus it says on the instruction sheet that the camo colours were sprayed over the egdes of the band, so I will get around to that soon which should help disguise and blend it in a bit. 

 

As it stands after setting overnight-

672_C58_B1-_F554-4_EE1-_A17_E-884_C56_C3

I reckon the blue-red split should be on the panel line? Kicks away at the bottom from where I rotated it forwards to help the red join up at the fin edge. 
688_A5_FD2-_E65_B-4451-8_C0_A-216_D71_AF

Amount of overlap. 
707_D1334-_B261-487_A-_BB54-2435037_C310

 

So could have been alot better. 

I am tempted to strip it off though and paint them or use the spare decal from the other kit I got recently, get the bands straight and then try and colour match/touch up the join along the top. 

Something which I will have to do with the blue at least anyways as it is now. 

 

Opinions? 

 

Thanks for looking 👍🏿

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Well, took the plunge - touched up and re-worked the band with some paint rather than to strip it off and start again. 

 

So - out with the tamiya basics. 

White to lighten the blue and yellow for the red. (Red looks better faded to orange than pink to me)

In the pic you can just make out the white bits of the decal where it has been sanded through and smoothed out. 


133_F3_A4_D-1_E9_F-406_A-8_CB1-90_B8960_

 

Blue being done. Mixed by eye,  first shade was a tad dark and thick to cover the white. After each pass it was rubbed back with some 4k micromesh. Beauty of enamels and cellulose thinner. Next a thinner and lighter shade of blue afterwards to fade and blend. 

8_CC1_C2_FF-62_E0-49_E7-_A4_C5-1_BC0_BEC

 

Masked off for the red -

 

D0_F50_BD5-_A1_F2-45_BB-_B3_C9-1_E048_C4

 

And done! Tidy enough I think.  The zoomed in pics show every mistake :) 

 

C256174_A-_CCFB-4_CA0-_AC23-3_BDF3_D465_

 

Next was adding some of the 81 & 82 camo shades over the edges of the band, as stated on the airfix sheet, so it was back out with the colourcoats. Again thinned with cellulose for the touch ups. Just need to micromesh the stripes to clean them up from the green. 

 

Quite pleased with it now - 

 

90866353-_AFF1-4047-_A8_C9-1_E08_FED1418

 

4_A5_E293_F-_AD29-4_FEC-8_CFC-42_C2_E32_

 

428_E08_A0-617_B-4_E25-9_D06-_EE59_D8_D9

 

Thanks for looking 👍🏿

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Tony, remember that the phrase, "good enough for government work" is NOT limited to only one or two countries; it applies to all. This looks quite good; and, is most likely "more realistic" and probable than a "perfect" effort(which rarely exists anyway). I agree with Nigel and Justin about how it looks: very good!

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Well knew it had to go wrong at some point... Most of my builds still have an ‘ooops moment’ 

 

Sprayed an acrylic satin varnish to seal in the decals and it came out horrendous. All rough and like pebbles. No idea why as its one I have used before recently with no problems. So put some aquagloss back over it to try and smooth it out again and that caused the satin to crack and wrinkle! WTF!?!

 

It was almost dispatched beneath a heel (correctly bent and driven, thigh parallel and all that) 

 

So I have put it to one side to deal with another day. 

 

Sorry troops :( 

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2 minutes ago, Nigel Heath said:

Very sorry to hear that. It sounds beyond recovery but it might be worth posting some photos for the BM collective to mull over.

That is a very sound idea.

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Tony - this is a real shame however rest assured that your not alone when it comes to builds going slightly askew.

I was once told it’s not how you build, it’s how you recover in this hobby that sets us apart.

Unfortunately, this phrase seems to echo in my head at some stage during every one of my model projects. 

 

Let us all hope (and say a quiet prayer) that this great 262 kit is recoverable. 

 

Cheers and good luck.. Dave 

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Micromesh or fine sanding pad to get rid of the wrinkles with a coat of Klear to fill in the cracks???? Was it satin varnish from a rattle can or airbrush?  From things I've read on here, I wonder if the carrier in rattle cans can react with other types of paint???

Steve.

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7 hours ago, stevehnz said:

Micromesh or fine sanding pad to get rid of the wrinkles with a coat of Klear to fill in the cracks???? Was it satin varnish from a rattle can or airbrush?  From things I've read on here, I wonder if the carrier in rattle cans can react with other types of paint???

Steve.

It can and does. Even within their own brand's products. Aerosol propellant is fairly aggressive solvent.

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It was mig ammo acrylic satin ‘not so lucky’ varnish, airbrushed on, and then alcad aquagloss to the rescue. 

 

Not a harsh solvent in sight. 

 

Anyways on inspection this morning the ‘crazing’ has mostly disappeared now its dry, but some roughness still remains. 

 

Pics to follow. 

 

And yes cheers will try some micro mesh to cut it back a bit. 

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