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Hi chaps, just something to distract me quickly from all the other stuff I need to be getting on with. 

 

This will be pretty much OOB, apart from the canopy masks and maybe some brassin wheels, not sure yet. I will put some sort of seatbelts in too, nothing over the top cause the canopy will be shut. 

 

I am doing the kits second decal option, 81/82 over 76. 

 

Paints are colourcoats from @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies , bought last week along with some USN greys for my other projects. 

I will continue the enamel theme with ak xtreme for the metals. 

 

Obilgatory contents shot. 

 

IMG_1174.jpg

 

After a few hours clean up on sunday night and the completion of some sub assemblies,  the parts had some paint thrown at them tonight  - 

02 for u/c legs. 

66 in pit. 

Aluminium in all bays and inside of doors. 

Titanium on intakes. 

Jet exhaust on acorn outlet things. 


IMG_1186.jpg

 

 

A few observations - 

 

Generally the plastic is easy to work with as quite soft and sands nicely. Also doesn't 'tear' when trimming stubs away with a knife which is good. 

 

Couple of raised pin marks to remove on underside of upper wing, one in the bay for aesthetics and the rest for a snug fit. I like the way the wing halves are split on a panel line so no leading edge seam.  

 

Intakes have a moulding ridge around the inside of them, 5 mins with some sandpaper around a file handle does the trick. 

 

The closed one piece u/c bay doors for the wheels up option fit quite snug once sanded around the egdes a touch and will be used as masks for prepainted bays. 

 

Main U/C legs and struts have some prominent lines that need scraping off and some parts slightly out of alignment? Hole needed enlarging in legs for the strut pin. 

 

Thats all I can remember at the minute. 

 

Cheers, Tony

 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Patrick Martin said:

Looks like it could be in a smaller box!

PM

 

Yeah as you can see the fuselage frame is about half size along with the wings one, but the main one at the bottom with all the small parts is 'box-sized'

 

Tony

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2 hours ago, neil5208 said:

I also have this one ready to go, but was waiting for the edaurd pe to come out. Will follow.

Yeah true as @Beefy has said the etch, mask and wheels for this kit are all out, and have been for some time because the kit itself was delayed. I have the etch sets in the stash ready for the GB next year. 

 

They do a zoom pre painted cockpit only set and then a more comprehensive one with the zoom plus a large sheet of plain brass with exterior stuff and u/c doors etc. Will try and get some pictures up later if I can dig it out of the stash. 

 

Nothing wrong with a quick simple build for familiarisation hey @Enzo Matrix ;)  

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15 hours ago, Beefy said:

Neil, good news for you the Eduard photoetch for the Airfix ME262 has been released and Creative Models is selling it with 46% discount,

http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=73600&oscsid=ee5fe5451db8074a511555e563e310dc&x=5&y=5

And ordered. Thanks for the link

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Big update!

 

Alot of progress made:

 

Exhaust blades dry brushed silver and intakes washed black (as if they will ever be seen!?!) also a few details picked out in pit. 

IMG_1206.jpg

 

Some eduard super fabric belts going in with white glue/pva. Since then had a flat coat and a dark wash in the pit. Not gone to town as closed canopy for this. The belts are labelled as fw190 but look ok to me for this application. 

IMG_1226.jpg

 

@Andrew Here are my favourite skewers again! Figuring out the best way to make handles for when it comes to painting. Conveniently there is a hole in the exhaust plate to mount a skewer in - 

 

IMG_1208.jpg

Foam is pierced then wrapped around in a U shape and provides enough friction to hold it in place. Foam can be pulled out from the front at the end of the build and then the intake cones installed in the back of the nacelle front bits (which will be tacked on with pva or similar for painting) 
IMG_1209.jpg

 

Wings are a snug fit. So sung that...
IMG_1211.jpg

 

They are too tight and flat. Note vf-21 lurking...
IMG_1212.jpg

 

Bit of a step here too. Better to have to reduce for fit than to fill gaps in my opinion. 
IMG_1213.jpg

 

So I cut a little 90' sliver here. (Can see it on blade)
IMG_1217.jpg

 

And then sanded these bulkheads back a bit. Slowly and a little bit at a time, kept checking. Till its narrow enough to allow this. 
IMG_1218.jpg

 

Ta da! Not measured it with a trigonometry set because life is too short but it looks about right. 
IMG_1219.jpg

 

Here you can see benefit of that little wegde I cut out each side next to the most inboard flaps. 
IMG_1220.jpg

 

Strange observation - big rivets at fin base this side: 

 

IMG_1215.jpg

 

Tiny tiny on this side. Can see the others poking out! Anyways...
IMG_1216.jpg

 

Sheet says 5 grams ballast. Not going to get it right at the front due to nose gear bay so went for 7 to be safe. Used a bit of a white metal figure leg then the rest is liquid gravity. Lots of superglue and its done. 
IMG_1224.jpg

 

Next the nose gear piece was put on. Decent fit, need to remove the join as not a panel line. Mr surfacer 500. Note decalled IP in background. Good size/fit too. Comes in two pieces, crisp and colourful. 


IMG_1225.jpg

 

And now cleaned up with panel lines re-scribed. 


IMG_1228.jpg

 

Engine pods need flatting down at the rear with a file and then scraping down at the front to bring them up level with the wing front edge to reduce the step and subsequent amount of filler needed. Again check every couple of swipes. 

IMG_1221.jpg

 

Joins were mr surfaced and then sanded back with wet 600 paper. 
IMG_1229.jpg

 

Spot priming - decanted halfords plastic primer sprayed through an airbrush. Quite high build and dries super fast in thin coats. Can fill scratches and gouges easily as can rub it back with 2400 cloth after a few mins and spray the next layer. 
IMG_1230.jpg

 

Spot priming. Engine pods have bad flat spots from over zealous use of sanding sticks :( more work required. 
IMG_1231.jpg

 

More spot priming. A little more work needed on engine joins.  
IMG_1232.jpg

 

Great fit of clear parts! 


IMG_1237.jpg

 

Canopy bits joined together for ease of handling. Will be masked then tacked on with pva during painting. 
IMG_1239.jpg

 

Thanls for looking! 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Tony Oliver said:

Big update!

...

@Andrew Here are my favourite skewers again! Figuring out the best way to make handles for when it comes to painting. Conveniently there is a hole in the exhaust plate to mount a skewer in - 

...

They are too tight and flat. Note vf-21 lurking...

 

 

Great update, Tony.

 

Thanks for your excellent description and illustration of the build. Thanks also for thinking of me with the skewered foam pic - it's an elegant solution that's even better than my 'foam stuck on with double-sided tape' idea...

 

Finally, /unlurk the Freelancer. I need the fix apparently, because there's certainly no progress on Tomcats at my place. It's all 'Mirages, Mirages, other delta derivatives' with me currently (not in itself a bad thing, it's just that it's been going on for some time now, and I really want to have at a FineMolds F-14D).

 

Keep up the great work.

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Here's where I am at with this kit:

37214552101_3bd9aa8f37_z.jpgUntitled by Russell Taylor, on Flickr

37214548391_a02f367e1b_z.jpgUntitled by Russell Taylor, on Flickr

36545144953_324c3d9cdf_z.jpgUntitled by Russell Taylor, on Flickr

37214534371_c2116953f1_z.jpgUntitled by Russell Taylor, on Flickr

And I'm sure you are looking at these wondering where the evidence of the terrible fit of the nacelles to the wing is. Well the reason you can't see it is that the filler I use is a mixture of Airfix plastic dissolved in Tamiya Extra Thin so it looks identical to the base plastic. As you can see, it is possible to get a decent result, but this was due to several rounds of filling and sanding.

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2 hours ago, Andrew said:

I really want to have at a FineMolds F-14D

Thanks Andrew 👍🏿

 

Ah the finemolds D. I also would like to have a crack at one of mine too, give it a sort of special guest/celebrity appearance in my wip. 

 

The trouble is deciding which markings to do it in. As a D, in terms of decal availability it could only really be a vf2 or black bunny as I already have done 31 & 213. 

 

An early nineties vf11 would be cool or a tps vf124 with a 4XX modex and no chin pod is another dream. 

 

I have toyed at the idea of grabbing the glove vane ecm bumps from a later fujimi kit, throwing in some aftermarket gru-7's and then using a tcs chinpod to make a B. That frees up the markings options alot. 

 

It also however makes my teeth itch and wreaks havoc with which  I can only assume is my ocd need to do an oob build first of any new kit... :D 

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4 hours ago, VMA131Marine said:

 

And I'm sure you are looking at these wondering 

Hi mate yeah we are at similar places.

 

The engine joins look good nice one, never tried dissolved plastic as a filler. Something else new to learn & try, thanks!

 

What's your anhedral/dihedral or lack of like?

Did you have similar issues?

 

 With regards to the top of the nose - hard to tell from the pics - have you rescribed the two ovals and reinstated the gun access panel hinge line?

 

Also are your clear parts only dry fitted because they are a bit all over the place? 

 

Tony

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5 minutes ago, Tony Oliver said:

Hi mate yeah we are at similar places.

 

The engine joins look good nice one, never tried dissolved plastic as a filler. Something else new to learn & try, thanks!

 

What's your anhedral/dihedral or lack of like?

Did you have similar issues?

 

 With regards to the top of the nose - hard to tell from the pics - have you rescribed the two ovals and reinstated the gun access panel hinge line?

 

Also are your clear parts only dry fitted because they are a bit all over the place? 

 

Tony

To be honest, the dihedral seems fine. It seems the spars Airfix used to box in the main gear well did their job.

 

I haven’t yet restored the nose ammo bay hinge line or the ovals. I need to work on those next.

 

The clear parts are only dry fitted at the moment. I've since glued the three sections together so they can be installed as a single unit. 

 

If you try the dissolved plastic filler, I find that a thinner mix is better. You certainly want it to be thin enough that it’s not stringy when you apply it.

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I can second the nacelle to wing fit. Much filling/blending etc. and mine still need a bit of work. I didn't get the flat wing profile though and got good dihedral. I can't do phots to support this as I'm not at home right now and haven't got my camera with me. I still need to blend the under nose bit in as well. Thanks for reminding me.

Which scheme are you going for?

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17 minutes ago, Darby said:

Which scheme are you going for?

 

Not the boxtop, but the other one 👍🏿

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This kit was not originally on my 2017 Wishlist, however you lot are starting to sway me to the dark side with these great WIP notes. Thanks for keeping us informed as you proceed.

If I see one of these in my LHS (and I have some spare cash in my wallet - unlikely!) I might just walk out with one of these. 

Looking forward to the next instalment. 

 

Cheers.. Dave

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1 hour ago, Tony Oliver said:

 

Not the boxtop, but the other one 👍🏿

I'm still undecided as yet. Quite like the box top one but the diagonal stripes on the fuselage is something I'm not keen on. one thing to be wary of, Make sure you firmly glue your A13 bits. You don't want them to pop off and have to remove the nacelle. Ask me how I know.

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14 minutes ago, Darby said:

Make sure you firmly glue your A13 bits. 

 Are those the intake cones? 

 

I'm leaving those out till the end as the engine cavities will be filled with foam to hold skewers for painting handles. The front bits will be tacked on with pva for camo painting consistency. 

 

Pics of this later or tomorrow depending on work. 

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14 hours ago, Tony Oliver said:

Sheet says 5 grams ballast. Not going to get it right at the front due to nose gear bay so went for 7 to be safe. Used a bit of a white metal figure leg then the rest is liquid gravity. Lots of superglue and its done. 
IMG_1224.jpg

 

Next the nose gear piece was put on. Decent fit, need to remove the join as not a panel line. Mr surfacer 500. Note decalled IP in background. Good size/fit too. Comes in two pieces, crisp and colourful. 

 

Just picked this up to do the new build replica the Messerschmitt foundation now own so following closely. An observation though, Tony, have you heard about the unpleasant things that happen with lead shot etc and superglue? It may only be certain types of lead/lead substitute but it was enough to scare me into using 5 minute epoxy. Maybe its nothing but I'd hate to see my models having an Alien chest burster moment in a decade or so...

 

A

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8 minutes ago, azureglo said:

 

Just picked this up to do the new build replica the Messerschmitt foundation now own so following closely. An observation though, Tony, have you heard about the unpleasant things that happen with lead shot etc and superglue? It may only be certain types of lead/lead substitute but it was enough to scare me into using 5 minute epoxy. Maybe its nothing but I'd hate to see my models having an Alien chest burster moment in a decade or so...

 

A

 

Yeah I have read that before, but liquid gravity isn't lead as far as I am aware? And they recommend superglue themselves for securing it? I will email them and ask perhaps. 

 

This will be long sold on by then anyways ;) 

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