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Wessex HC2 Crab Cabs Pt II (Fly Wessex - why on earth did I?)


hendie

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I've got a different view of the black-bird as well as the pale blue one in my collection

I think the grey is the nicest scheme for Walter

I expect H is about to reproduce the hoist internals in etchery now, this is a brave new world unleashed

 

😉

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42 minutes ago, Wafu said:

Did you ever see the light grey scheme?

I never actually saw either airframe in those colours but was aware of them. 

For those who have no idea what we are talking about :

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ87VhOFD7dxtUFKgpCNLy

Does anyone remember the camouflage trials with the HU5 in the late sixties or early seventies. Some interesting schemes there.

 

Hendie.. apologies for drift!

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1 hour ago, Scimitar said:

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ87VhOFD7dxtUFKgpCNLy

Does anyone remember the camouflage trials with the HU5 in the late sixties or early seventies. Some interesting schemes there.

Well, that's quite a nice scheme for the Humphrey, Scimitar! I'd like to paint my 1/48 Italeri kit like that.

Awesome build there, Hendie.

Cheers both,

 

Unc2

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3 hours ago, Wafu said:

Great work Hendie, I think your metal work is amazing. It would be great if it was available for us mortals, lol.

 

Ive seen your SACRU on Shapeways, very nice indeed.

 

if anyone else was making this, I might be persuaded to pop out a set. Though I'm not sure if it would be a drop in on the other kits. Fly seem to have done some rework on the tail on the other versions.

 

Shapeways:  I'm hoping to put more on there as time progresses.  As with my build of Hotel, I'm hoping/planning to have one of the seats folded and the kit parts aren't really suitable for that so I'm planning on having the parts for one 3D printed

 

 

3 hours ago, perdu said:

I expect H is about to reproduce the hoist internals in etchery now, this is a brave new world unleashed

 

As exciting as this alchemy is, I think it's important not to run off and redesign every panel and its brother in etch.  I've never been a great fan of panels stuck on top of plastic and generally it looks just like a piece of brass stuck on top of plastic so I'll have to be careful and chose my weapons/battles carefully.  Rest assured there will be more etch though

 

 

2 hours ago, Scimitar said:

Hendie.. apologies for drift!

 

no need whatsoever.

 

 

2 hours ago, Scimitar said:

Hendie,I've been thinking..dangerous I know, but with all your newfound skill with PE you could have a go at this one perhaps?

 

:clap2:   ehrr... nope!

You'd have thought that someone could have told those boys that aluminum comes in other sizes that just 6" squares.  Or maybe they got a job lot offer from ebay ?

 

Edited by hendie
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3 hours ago, perdu said:

I think the grey is the nicest scheme for Walter

Red & Grey for me, followed by the echt-60s yellow top.  Though the early Junglie sand & green number is quite cool.

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58 minutes ago, hendie said:

 

 

if anyone else was making this, I might be persuaded to pop out a set. Though I'm not sure if it would be a drop in on the other kits. Fly seem to have done some rework on the tail on the other versions.

 

 

Yes please for me, two sets. Ta very much.

 

 

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After the great Exciting Etchery Escapade it was time to get back for what generally passes as modeling in the House of Hend.

 

Which brought me back to where this malarkey all started - the Tail!   Now that I had some suitable corroded pieces of brass it was time to make sure they actually fitted where they were supposed to.  That in turn meant opening up some of the holes I had in the styrene frame.  The frame was made before I had the idea of trying brass so the openings were close to scale size.  Now that I was using brass, I wanted to open up these ehrr... openings so you wouldn't be able to see styrene through the openings holes in the brass.  The styrene was there now just for support.

 

PC300001.jpg

 

That's better...

 

PC300002.jpg

 

Out came the etch bender and the bracket was folded up

 

PC300003.jpg

 

Which then slotted very nicely through the slot in the center of the brass frame.  I did have to file a smidgen off the ends of the bracket to allow it to pop into the slot, but overall, very happy with the result. Very impressed in fact.

 

PC310010.jpg

 

The tail was then glued up, clamped and left overnight.  I know I am going to have trouble with that tail.  It just seemed to have gaps everywhere, and if I close one gap up, another one opened. 

Anyways,  leaving the tail alone for the moment I went back to the fuselage and some remedial work.  Way back before last Christmas I had attempted to fashion the two fuel filler ports from styrene because Fly's attempts at replicating these were to be honest, even worse than Italeri's  - Unfortunately my attempts didn't go so well and I damaged the surrounding kit plastic. That was all sorted out and I got back to square one'ish.

 

Let's have some etch then... (dry fitted)

 

PC300004.jpg

 

and with a fuel filler cap in place (again dry fitted).  Note: I'm using scrap etch parts for all the dry fitting and shaping.  When it comes time to glue things in place I'll select the best looking parts.

 

PC300005.jpg

 

Back to the tail at hand.  Yuk  The plastic is so soft that even just a small amount of glue will dissolve it and leave a nice squishy glue seam.  Gluing that fuselage together is going to be fund and games.  Not.

 

PC310006.jpg

 

That seam's just not nice is it?  I tried getting everything flat by sanding on my granite block but that only improved the situation and didn't completely eliminate the problem sadly.

 

PC310007.jpg

 

I had a choice to make here - either I could line up the panel lines and have the two sides mismatched, or line up the two sides and have the panel lines mismatched.  I think I missed both boats here.  I see some sanding and filling in my future.

In this shot below, I should have taken a "before I started sanding" photo.  Due to the poor molding process and the resultant flash, most of the edges have a small raised lip - just enough to throw your alignment out of whack if you use that edge to align with.  Unfortunately, it's very hard to tell just how much to remove so trying to remove the lip before gluing doesn't really help much either.

 

PC310008.jpg

 

So to cheer myself up a tad, I pulled out some of the resin parts and began cleaning those up.

Being the trusting chap that I am, I'm going to use wire pins wherever possible when attaching the resin parts to the plastic.

 

PC310009.jpg

 

Now I just need to figure out a fool proof way to attach the PE to the plastic

 

 

 

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Cor...

 

What a game huh, fabulous modelling with rubbish raw materials  :(

Anyway up, I detest cyanos, as ye may have heard me declaim in here many times, but I have found that

Roket Max Thick, non runny cyano glue (bonds 10-20 sec. 20g from www.deluxematerials.com works quite nicely

It is a little thick-ish when you apply it and allows just that little bit of 'move it to suit' that helps you to get it in and on the spot

 

I have also used Gator's Grip hobby glue Acrylic Hobby Glue for the similar task

 

On the whole I think the Roket is the bizz

 

The enhanced text is what it says on the packet, I would hate you to get rubbish stuff thinking I'd endorsed it

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and probably the last update for this year 2017 is this....

 

Looking at the bare brass frames got me thinking... what if...  So I cut a couple of small strips about 2.5 mm wide, trimmed them with scissors, and they didn't look half bad.  Still no rivets but I have a plan for next year.

 

PC310001.jpg

 

Then another resin part got attention.  This time the sprocket thingy to drive the tail rotor.  Fly have given it a 'V' toothed arrangement instead of the correct castellated tooth, however at this scale, and once it's inside it's protective cover only me, you and the rest of the world will know that Fly got it wrong again.   The cover was made up from some thin walled brass tube that I filed thinner still, and a piece of styrene backing.

 

PC310004.jpg

 

 and in place it's starting to look like the back end of a Wessex.  The brass strips have been installed in this shot.  Bill - I ended up using some G summat Hypo glue as I had some handy.  It seems to be doing the trick so far.

 

PC310003.jpg

 

and the very last, last thing for this year was to add the small lock pin to prevent the rotor turning when the tail is opened

 

PC310005.jpg

 

Happy Hogmanay everyone

 

 

 

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still two and three quarter hours to go  ish

 

Happy Hogmanay to you too H, lang may yer lum reek

 

and other assorted Hamiltonisms gleaned from dad back then

 

Have a great one to all of you too

 

 

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Love the alchamy and the resultant tail fold area Hendie. This is going to be some epic build and I don't know if you have mentioned elsewhere, the scheme you have chosen but if you are thinking o/a yellow SAR, I have pics of the full interior fit...

 

Colin

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9 hours ago, heloman1 said:

and I don't know if you have mentioned elsewhere, the scheme you have chosen but

 

I think I did, though probably way back at the beginning of the thread somewhere. It's going to be another 28 Sqn Cab, probably Alpha though I may be tempted for Delta.

I'll need to dig through my references and look out the best photos to help me decide

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