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H&S Evolution - Tip clogging very fast


armored76

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Aye up Christian.

 

Why not buy a couple of the AK Real Colors and a small bottle of their thinner and see how you go with them in your current set up. I'm a great believer in the 'cheapest option' first. Thats cos i'm a true Yorkshireman! 😁

 

Regards.

 

Steve

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Thanks, Steve! That all makes sense... I initially thought that a small bottle of thinner and ONE bottle of paint plus the shipping costs would add up to about 50% of the needle/nozzle/cap set price. But then again, once thinner and shipping are paid for, I can add TEN more bottles of paint for the same price. It's just that I'd hate to invest in yet another line of paints and not be able to use it properly...

 

I guess, I'll look at the next builds I'm planning and order a sample set of paints accordingly.

 

Thanks for all your suggestions! I'll sure keep you updated on the progress! 

🍺🍺🍺

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I use an Infinity with a 0.15 needle and I have the same problems you are having with real acrylics.

 

The only paint that really works nicely and allows me to explore the full potential of a 0.15 needle is Gunze paint (Mr Hobby - the aqueous one).

 

When I say "full potential", I mean fine Luftwaffe mottling in 1/72 and 1/48 without clogging the airbrush.

 

Tamiyas in their own thinner are OK too but not as good as Gunze.

 

With Gunze I can paint for hours with no clogging.

 

I still try out new paints because some have better colours but none have beaten Gunze's paintability.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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56 minutes ago, armored76 said:

Thanks, Marco! That comes to confirm that lacquer-based paints behave better. Have you tried large nozzles, too or only the 0.15 mm?

Oh yes. I have 0.5 and a 0.4 airbushes also.

 

I use these to spray large areas (that doesn't happen very often), priming and varnishing. I´ve tried Vallejo on these with the same issues.

 

I really like to use the 0.15. Gives me control and I save a lot of paint (large nozzles throw too much paint away in the air).

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 6 months later...

Sorry for not reporting back sooner on this... After reading through the information here and in a very helpful private post, it seems like I was finally able to solve my problem.

 

In hindsight, the key elements are:

  • open up the needle travel distance a lot more; I'm probably in the range around to 2mm which is a lot more than what I used with MRP paints
  • if the paint is undiluted (Vallejo or Mig), up the pressure to a round 15-20psi
  • if the paint is dilute (e.g. for freehand) lower the pressure to around 10-15psi and dilute around 30-70 paint-thinner ratio then apply several layers
  • if diluting the paint use a bit of retarder; with Revell paints I now use their acrylics thinner exclusively

Not sure how it happened but all of sudden it just "clicked" into working mode.

 

Many thanks for all your help, gentlemen! It is much appreciated!

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18 hours ago, armored76 said:

Sorry for not reporting back sooner on this... After reading through the information here and in a very helpful private post, it seems like I was finally able to solve my problem.

 

In hindsight, the key elements are:

  • open up the needle travel distance a lot more; I'm probably in the range around to 2mm which is a lot more than what I used with MRP paints
  • if the paint is undiluted (Vallejo or Mig), up the pressure to a round 15-20psi
  • if the paint is dilute (e.g. for freehand) lower the pressure to around 10-15psi and dilute around 30-70 paint-thinner ratio then apply several layers
  • if diluting the paint use a bit of retarder; with Revell paints I now use their acrylics thinner exclusively

Not sure how it happened but all of sudden it just "clicked" into working mode.

 

Many thanks for all your help, gentlemen! It is much appreciated!

 

Good to hear that it is all working for you.. :)

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