Jump to content

AMG 1/72 Messerschmitt Bf 109 A


Recommended Posts

After much anticipation the AMG 1/72 scale Jumo engined Bf 109s are finally available. Over the years I have considered and even tried many alternatives for an acceptable 109 A through D, including modifying the Heller kit, grafting the Heller nose on a Tamiya E, Grafting the DB Products nose on a Tamiya E, learning to live with the Heller kit and finally, waiting for a good kit to come along. I've read a number of reviews of the AMG model online, none of them glowing. One of the best assessments comes from our own Woody, which I will reprint here:


"I've had one of these for some time now. While the initial viewing makes it look very good, it has issues. As far as the shape goes it is very good. Nice scribing and most of the small parts are done well. Photo etch and masks included and all of the parts for all of the variants are apparently included in all of the kits.

However... there's no canopy framing and the engineering of the wing is preposterous. The wing does not for the most part break on panel lines. The wing root is split up the middle, cleaning up this seam will most likely take out the fairings that cover the spar bolts requiring their replacement. At the trailing edge of the wing root are rather wonky keys on the lower surface of the fuselage that are supposed to slot into openings on the lower wing panel. They don't fit. Then there's the join at the trailing edge. Most 109 kits I have seen the lower wing panels aft edge is at the flap/aileron juncture on the underside. Not here, no that would be much too simple. Instead there is a sweeping joint that runs through two panel lines on it's way to the wingtip. In addition the lower wing is too thick to sit flush in it's provided recess adding insult to injury.

Then we get to the cowling. I believe there are ten pieces involved in the cowling assembly. It appears that the lower radiator area will fit fairly well, the rest of it looks like it will be a challenge. Another issue with the cowling is that the rather prominent angled vents fore and aft of the exhausts are merely represented with a scribed outline rather than an indentation. This will also be a challenge to rectify.

So what do we have at the end of the day? It's got a better shape than the Heller kit. It's got better detail, better fabric surfaces and it's scribed. It also looks to be a bitch to build. The Heller kit, which has just been rereleased, will be an easier build but not as accurate. Which you choose will depend on your priorities and skill level. I was really hoping for a reasonable kit here, but the engineering of the wing has really put me off. Which is a shame as I would have bought about two dozen of these things. I guess I'll have to wait and see what the competition brings out.

Now for a little editorial content. I have it on good authority that the 1/48 scale early 109's by AMG do not have the ludicrous engineering around the wing. So why did they do this on the 1/72 scale kit? The only thing I can think of is to leave fingerprints. So that if one of the less principled manufactures tries to copy the AMG kit it will be glaringly obvious that they did so or they have a lot of extra work to do to cover their tracks. I can see their point but the disservice they did to the consumer is appalling."

Not to be dissuaded, I decided to make this kit my next project. So here goes.

The most daunting part of the build will be the (too) multi-part nose; but how should it be approached? Glue the cowl panels to the fuselage, then add the exhausts or stick the upper cowl together first, attach the exhausts to the cowl, then proceed? This thing is like an erector set. A bunch of loosely fitting parts interlock to make a rigid structure. The key seems to be, oddly enough, the wing. The lower cowl is integral with the lower wing part, so let's start there. As Woody mentioned, the wing parts breakdown is utterly ridiculous. See here:

36657297376_150a13225e_c.jpg

What the hell were they thinking?? Their 1/48 kit has the upper/lower wing attachment at the aileron and flap line. Easy! Not here. And if it fit you could accept it. It doesn't. In the photo you can make out the very coarse sanding I did on the outer lower wing panels. It wasn't enough, so I took a #10 scalpel blade and scraped off some of the mating area on the upper wings. This just about did it, but it still wasn't perfect. More of that below.

I will give AMG credit for the wheel well breakdown. The wells are inserts, a little too thick (who's surprised at that), but this enables them to be painted in a simple way.

First I painted the upper wing structure, the wheel well insert and the rim of the well on the lower wing in Pollyscale RLM 02. Then I brush painted the leather area of the insert with an acrylic brown. When sandwiched together, this is much easier and effective than a single part.


36657298136_10543c7916_c.jpg

36703202985_dc554c16b5_c.jpg


While I was at it, I painted the cockpit RLM 02 as well, gave it an oil wash, and picked out some details with Vallejo acrylics. This kit has perhaps the best cockpit of any 1/72 scale 109 model on the market today. The details are very crisp and an included photo-etched fret contains quite a few minute items. One thing became apparent to me when some references. The map case is molded on the left side of the cockpit, which is actually correct, but only for the Bf 109 A. From the B - E versions, it is on the right side. AMG provides a photo-etched case, but there are two issues. First, it lacks one indentation where it should be folded. I tried brute force but that didn't work. This is also the case (no pun intended) with the 1/48th kit, on which I also experimented. There I tried scribing the missing groove, again to no avail, even though it is significantly bigger. My advice to you; make one from .005" plastic card. Again, I was elated to discover that the kit is correct for the A variant. 

36703202495_556abcf814_c.jpg


Incidentally, this is pointed out in the two essential references for the early 109s. The first is a superb Kagero monograph:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234990602-messerschmitt-bf109-early-versions-a-d/


The second is vol. 1 of Lynn Ritger's excellent two part series on the Bf 109:

https://www.amazon.com/MESSERSCHMITT-BF-109-PART-Prototype/dp/0955185807/ref=pd_cp_14_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0955185807&pd_rd_r=NZA1Q7MJVHM5SKF9Q21G&pd_rd_w=e82hI&pd_rd_wg=8RKBp&psc=1&refRID=NZA1Q7MJVHM5SKF9Q21G

So here is the wing after quite a bit of effort.


36703202195_225cb88de5_c.jpg


The wing joint has been slathered with a mixture of talcum power and super glue (thank you Mr. Dedig) and sanded. I then brushed some Gunze Mr. Surfacer on some suspicious areas and re-sanded. I then masked the wheel wells and shot a rather heavy coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 on the rest of the lower wing. So far, it looks OK. I will sand and polish this area, then it's on to rescribing the lost panel lines. 


36555819112_b2d6a47668_c.jpg


36555817292_903aa04ee2_c.jpg


The would have been a much more difficult job without these very simple tools from John Vojtech at UMM Models:


36555818182_82a7ae99b5_c.jpg


They are simple, shaped aluminum bars to which you attach sandpaper to using double sided tape. But the advantage is that they don't "give". They stay perfectly flat, just what is needed for sanding the uneven lower wing surfaces.


Finally (you thought you'd never get there), here's what I meant about the lower wing being crucial to the nose alignment. 


36555816642_d1520d7b49_c.jpg

Again, I'm not sure how to proceed. The cowl panels are stuck on with blobs of Blu-Tack. I have thought about leaving them there and glueing everything together with 5-minute epoxy. Of course I would align the parts better than this, but that just might work. Or, use epoxy putty t for the same purpose. Epoxy putty would also act as the adhesive, but once pushed beyond where you want it to go, you can't really pull the part out again. Blu-Tack is "gummier" and will allow that. 

So that's part one of the saga. If you've gotten this far, you deserve a medal for endurance. I also have a cobbled together Heller 109 B/D from the shelf of doom. When the AMG kit catches up, I will proceed with both models.

Thanks for looking.

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I've decided how to proceed with the nose. After taping the wing to the fuselage, I applied some liquid glue the very back of the exhaust panels, joined them to the fuselage halves and let them set up overnight.

36668201721_8e643081ff_c.jpg

Then tonight I attached the upper cowl panels to these exhaust sections with white glue. This was followed by a touch of liquid glue at the front corner. After they had set up reasonably, I loaded up the interior of the nose with 5 minute epoxy. I will have to do quite a bit of sanding and filling, and don't want anything separating during the process.


36637422262_e14d95be3b_c.jpg


Here the forward cowl has been taped on to check the fit. It is far from great, but when clamped together the gaps close up to a great extent. You can also see the vents on the cowl have been filled with superglue and sanded flush. There were a number of differences between the A and B variants, including some wing access panels that will have to be scribed in.


36668201361_88aa7c5364_c.jpg

 

More soon and thanks for looking.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The AMG kit comes with a rather extensive fret of photo-etched parts, actually two for the "A" variant. Apparently the 109 A had different wheel well covers. Glueing two pieces of photo-etch together can be a challenge, but if you start by tacking them together with white glue then following up with thin super glue they can be managed. The only modification I made here was cutting off the upper section of the backplate and reglueing it with a very slight overlap. Also it was angled in a bit.

36487156770_f36a385f02_c.jpg


I've also glued the fuselage together. Again, there was quite a bit of trimming and sanding to be done, particularly with the cockpit floor and instrument panel. The AMG kit has probably the best "in the box" cockpit of any 109 in 1/72 scale. I mentioned the photo-etch, but there are also many tiny plastic bits. I am adhering to the IPMS out of the box rules and the canopy will be closed. Therefore very little will be visible through the rather thick glass. I've even left off a number of photo-etched bits and the cockpit still looks suitably busy.


36487155940_906a6c6c0f_c.jpg


The instrument panel is a decal that is placed on a flat panel, but again it looks good enough for OOB. The same is true for the circuit breaker panel on the right side of the cockpit. Curiously, if you look very closely at these, you'll see something like a dot matrix pattern; obvious on the backing sheet, but less so on the model. The decals reacted well the Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Mark Softener. This is one area that could have been improved with a photo-etched instrument panel. In future builds where I'll use a opened vac canopy, I'll use an aftermarket panel.


Now it was time to close up the fuselage. As I mentioned, some very vigorous sanding let the fuselage halves close and allow it to be narrow enough to not push the dihedral out of the wings. Do check this if you decide to build this kit. You may think the fuselage closes well enough, but without modification, the over-wide cockpit will push out the wing roots and flatten the wing considerably. I used a second kit to check the dimensions before committing to glue.

All in all it went together without too much drama.

36487155300_812a473b93_c.jpg


After using Tenax 7R and some superglue, I was feeling good about things. Then I noticed that the starboard cowl looked to be protruding at the rear. This was not the case earlier, so it must have popped free while I was holding everything else together with clamps. I drilled a hole through the right side of the engine and started be clamping the cowl down and flowing rather thick superglue along the rear attachment point. This was followed by accelerator and 5 minute epoxy along the same side and through the hole in the engine. This seemed to work, but I'll be constantly checking for other mishapsnuntil the basic airframe construction is completed.  

I realize that some of my comments about the fit of this kit may seem a bit harsh. But in reality, this is not more challenging than a short run kit, and some of the details are considerably better. So for the moment, I'll maintain my delight at having a modern kit of the Jumo powered Messerschmitt.

Edited by 109 fan
additional word
  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is looking very promising so far :thumbsup: . Keep up the good work. Im going to keep a sharp eye on this, as I'm Desperate for a Dora in my collection. Im not afraid of limited run stuff. To my eye it seems the placement of the upper/lower wing join is a bit amateurish in its nature.

     To be fair I've read in another post that may be because of copyright protection issues. To stop would be cloners, but still a bit amateur in my book. For the money to buy & ship one of these into the US. I feel these kits might be a bit overpriced. However thats a personal opinion, & i will refrain from a final decision on this until its done and sitting in the RFI category. 

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, so the only way to do the nose in my opinion, is to putty everything, then sand, prime, repeat...

This is a project where you hope your initial surge of enthusiasm will carry you beyond the point of terminal frustration. So far, so good. Here's where she stands at the moment. The wing is just snapped in place.


36762441116_14a8d38e2c_c.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've glued on the wings and tailplanes. Have I mentioned that this kit does not fit very well? Honestly, it doesn't.

Here's where she stands t the moment. The lower cowl is held in place with Blu-Tack and tape to check the fit. About half an hour has gone into these two pieces so far today. They're getting there, but not quite perfect. Also, the entire airframe has been rescribed where needed and riveted. I know, the panel lines these planes were probably puttied and sanded, but since I'm an unrepentent riveter, it got the treatment. I have seen SCW 109s with very prominent panel lines and visible rivets, so chalk it up to artistic license.

 

36217863703_aaa66a5bb0_c.jpg

36217864773_9a4f56467b_c.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you sand anything long enough you can make it fit. After over an hour, here is where the lower radiator scoop stands. I decided to glue the two parts together first instead of attaching each to its respective fuselage half, then mating them up.


36221279924_d727346281_c.jpg


To reinforce this section, which would clearly need additional sanding, I glued a piece of .40" x .60" Evergreen styrene strip to its rear lip. This resulted in a suitably sturdy assembly.


36221279514_2f029167ac_c.jpg

To confirm the fit I inserted the radiator part. After considerable sanding, it also fit. However, since it was reduced in size, the photo-etched grill was now too big. I'm not quite sure where to cut this, but the upper edge is a likely candidate.


36221278894_f99dfb5f21_c.jpg


36221278534_c6470a668e_c.jpg


The scoop will now fits acceptably. The idea of casting this whole assembly becomes more and more intriguing.


36221278244_f3a0c8df9c_c.jpg


The next step will be to paint the inside of the scope and corresponding section of the fuselage silver, then paint the radiator and grill. The grill attaches directly to the fuselage, then the scoop will be added. I plan to glue one side at a time, making sure to get a good fit, and letting it dry before clamping and glueing the opposite side.

Have I mentioned that this kit doesn't fit very well?

Well it doesn't. But I like the shape.

More soon.

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been working on the next logical step in this build, the radiator area. The part lead me down paths I never expected and took several hours (that probably could have been spent on something much more productive). I had to further sand down the plastic core, which made the photo-etched part effectively that much larger. In the end I tacked the top edge in place using diluted white glue, followed by superglue. I then ran some superglue around the bottom. This allowed me to cut off the excess with a single edge razor blade. On the second attempt, it kind of worked. In all I've used four different photo-etched grills from two kits. Again, if I even do another of these kits, I will attempt to cast the nose and this radiator in resin, so losing a few parts along the way won't matter. Still a few tweaks to be done, but it is nearly there. It has been painted flat black and then brushed with powdered graphite. 


36758314580_247eb3840a_c.jpg


The concurrent issue is the airframe's overall color, Silberweiss, since this would have to be painted on the area surrounding area the radiator before this was buttoned up. I ordered a rattle can of Tamiya AS 12, since this has been highly touted. After decanting, thinning and spraying some test areas I was left cold. It appeared grainy and didn't spray very well. 

Now it was time for some alchemy. I had bought several different bottles of Gunze (say it with me..."God's Paint") Sangyo silvers. One of them, Next Plate Silver SM 08 had the consistency of Alclad and seemed to hold promise. After a number of experiments, I arrived at this mix:

Gunze GX-100 Gloss Lacquer - 2 parts
Gunze SM 08 - 3 to 10 parts (a work in progress)
Gunze Gloss White Lacquer - 2 parts
Mr. Color Leveling Thinner - 10 parts

This concoction sprays like a dream with no grain. It also has very good covering qualities. It seems that GX-100 Gloss makes EVERYTHING better...

This is my paint mule used to test a number of paint experiments. The final mix with 3 parts silver is on the panel marked 1. A later mix with 11 parts silver is on the panel marked 2. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle.


36758314170_5cd39ff0da_c.jpg


Here I've sprayed the radiator area and dry fitted the lower cowl in place. I've also used the silver to prime some areas to check the fit. Photos don't really convey the colors, but will have to do.


37013238361_9495ec94a7_c.jpg
 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Following your build thread with a lot of interest Barry.  I like your idea with the metallic paint.  Will have to give that one a try.

 

After seeing all that you have had to put in to build this kit and considering the price, I think I will stay with my poor old Heller kits.  I think you have done an amazing job with this kit, but after taking all into consideration, I think it is an overall let down.  I'd have expected far better, especially after seeing the 1/48 offering.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Barry you have the patience of a Saint! After reading this WIP to this point I have decided to sell my copies of the AMG 109s (I bought 5 of the things!) as I just don't have the skill, time, patience to go through all that. My wait for a 21st Century shake and bake Jumo 109 continues :(

All that said, your build is a superb instruction for those who wish to follow and learn (as always). I look forward to seeing your finished Anton.

 

Duncan B

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, 109 fan said:

The concurrent issue is the airframe's overall color, Silberweiss, since this would have to be painted on the area surrounding area the radiator before this was buttoned up. I ordered a rattle can of Tamiya AS 12, since this has been highly touted. After decanting, thinning and spraying some test areas I was left cold. It appeared grainy and didn't spray very well. 

Now it was time for some alchemy. I had bought several different bottles of Gunze (say it with me..."God's Paint") Sangyo silvers. One of them, Next Plate Silver SM 08 had the consistency of Alclad and seemed to hold promise. After a number of experiments, I arrived at this mix:

Gunze GX-100 Gloss Lacquer - 2 parts
Gunze SM 08 - 3 to 10 parts (a work in progress)
Gunze Gloss White Lacquer - 2 parts
Mr. Color Leveling Thinner - 10 parts

This concoction sprays like a dream with no grain. It also has very good covering qualities. It seems that GX-100 Gloss makes EVERYTHING better...

This is my paint mule used to test a number of paint experiments. The final mix with 3 parts silver is on the panel marked 1. A later mix with 11 parts silver is on the panel marked 2. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle.


36758314170_5cd39ff0da_c.jpg
 

Barry, I am curious, how did you come up with the mixture for your silver-white colour?  What made you choose the particular formulation you did? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pure experimentation. I knew that Gunze Gx-100 clear gloss mixes well with anything, including their acrylic line. I had tried the Gunze silvers alone and had some issues with one of them rubbing off. Actually, I can't remember which one, but it was probably this SM 08 Silver Plate. So combining it with the Gx-100 would make a good binder with an excellent, durable gloss finish. Since the name is Silberweiss, I thought adding the gloss white incrementally until I was satisfied ought to do the trick. Luckily, it seems that it has.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Barry.

 

I noticed that Gunze has a Clear Silver color, GX-110.  Have you experimented at all with that one?  Quite honestly, I do not know what they mean by Clear Silver, but if the Gloss Clear makes for a better mixture, in this instance, would the Clear Silver of the same brand and line not work even more in your favor?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That may indeed be a great idea, but it would take over a month to get some from my usual source, sealmodel.com. For the moment, I am satisfied with this concoction.

 

The major components of the airframe are at last assembled. The final bit was the chin scoop, which probably could have been scratch built as easily as adjusting the kit parts. In the end, after faring in with 5-minute epoxy, I am pleased with the results. At this point I regret not resurrecting my casting supplies and making molds of the finished nose for resin casting. The Jumo engined 109s are essential to any 109 collection and I have no desire to repeat this process. Anyway, here are some photos of the completed nose. I am using the Gunze Silberweiss mix to check for flaws. 

36818463350_e55d11fddf_b.jpg


36818463420_efb06218b0_b.jpg


I have also tacked on the flaps. At the moment they are still held in place with tape. I'll use 5-minute epoxy to secure them soon.

36818463740_b7d9a139b0_b.jpg


36818463590_01f56561c3_b.jpg


I've come to something of a crossroads in this build. From the start I intended to make it an out of the box effort. There are certainly enough bells and whistles in the kit to do a credible job of that. But the canopy is a letdown. It is too thick and the gunsight glass represented as it is on the windscreen, while clever, isn't really the way things were. Falcon made a nice early 109 vac canopy in one of their Luftwaffe sets. This the may just sway me to open a can of worms and substitute other, more accurate parts. We'll see.


 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Barry.

 

Rob Taurus does a fantastic Bf.109B canopy.  It is for the Heller kit, but then again, so are the Falcon ones.  I just think that the Rob Taurus canopies are nicer.  I always go to Owl for these.

 

I am aware that you have worked with Roy Sutherland in the past on some of his Cooper Details sets, as the AMG kit is somewhat of a let down, have you given any thought to collaborating with Roy and doing a conversion set?  Perhaps basing it on the Tamiya kit (which would also work with the ICM kit), it would probably be far less work than what it would take to build this kit and end up being far better.

Edited by Wm Blecky
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wm Blecky  ... Great idea you have👍

 

     I do believe i'd buy a few of those if they were made. As im not the only person missing the early 109's in my collection. Im not afraid to do some work but all the stuff thats been done so far on this AMG kit tells me its not worth it. Sorry 109 fan you have done incredible work and i am following your build closely. However a drop in replacement AM set is a definite plus especially for a Tamiya or some other fairly common kit that is available globally. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have done quite a bit of resin casting in the past and am comfortable with the process. This project is too far along for casting. In fact I think that would have to be a dedicated build, assembled with consideration for casting. Some areas would have to be blanked off, like the sides of the cowl before attaching the radiator. Maybe in the future; at the moment I want to get this one done.

Some progress to report tonight. The flaps have been secured with 5-minute epoxy. Also the seat belts were painted and glued to the seat (photo later). A bit of advice for anyone building this kit; the photo-etched parts are rather thick and rigid. I passed the belts over a candle flame to anneal them, but still they were a challenge to bend realistically. The photo-etched perforated thing on the nose has been white glued to the cowl. I'll spray the area with some Silberweiss primer to see if it is acceptable, but I'd rather not have to use epoxy. Finally, I've started working on the canopy. Again, if this will be an out of the box build, I'll have to work with the kit supplied part. Actually it doesn't look too bad. I've used some diluted white glue to tack it together for a positioning check. Soon it will be fixed with epoxy, then any necessary final sanding will be done. I plan to use the same painted decal strip technique that was done on my Bf 108 build, which is on this site. I'll start with a coat of RLM 02 on a piece of clear decal film, then gloss black and finally silver. Screws will then be embossed on strips, which will be cut to represent the frames.

 

37044231566_e4215ab241_c.jpg


37044230856_a24c0a6b45_c.jpg

 

More soon...

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Painting has commenced. I have decided to go the out-of-the-box route, so the kit canopy was polished up with some Dawn Dishwashing soap. If you haven't tried this on canopies, I would recommend it. There is something to be said for dipping them in Future. But when you run some 5-minute epoxy around the edge to seal the canopy in place and remove the excess with denatured alcohol with a Q-tip, you will have problems. The alcohol will remove the Future as well. Also, this thought has been bouncing around in my head for a while. How clean would the canopies of in-service aircraft have been? Certainly not as clear as a car on the showroom floor. A pilot's ability to see the adversary is crucial, so they would have been kept as clean as possible. But these aircraft lived outside with blowing dirt and grit. Just a thought.

The painting has commenced. Here the white wingtips and rudder have been painted and masking of the canopy and wheel wells is completed. I've mentioned the Heller kit would make an appearance when the AMG build caught up with it. So here it is. I'll show more detailed comparisons as things progress, but you can see the difference in the nose depth. Some of this is due to the optics of my camera making the AMG model appear bulkier since it is closer to the lens.

 

37293771971_c8e2a259b7_c.jpg


37293772861_e3b4f392c6_c.jpg


And finally, two of the paint mules on which I have conducted unholy experiments. Here, I've tested the various silver mixes and determined that painting the white wingtips before painting the silver eliminated the masking ridge.


36583941364_3079545f6b_c.jpg


 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was really looking forward to this kit but I'm contemplating rescribing the Heller kit now. It looks like less work and I already have it in the stash.

 

You are doing an amazing job by the way. Thanks for the detailed description of your build.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you, gentlemen, for the compliments. They are most appreciated.

 

The Anton has gotten its first coat of Silberweiss. Again, the Gunze witches brew went on well. Next will be touchups and a few contrasting darker silver panels, followed by some in black.


23491061668_e267460f2b_c.jpg

 

23491061338_23d585e6e3_c.jpg

 

23491061048_7bfe5c7043_c.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So this is how the famous Silberweiss looks like. It is quite silvery:)

Very nice build 109 fan.

I'm watching with interest, because I'm also working on a Spanish Anton, but in 48th. Mine will be 6-7.

So please keep posting:)

 

Cheers,

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Guys. One-Two, this one will also be 6-7.

 

I've added some contrasting panels with a darkened version of my silberweiss mix. First I added a drop of Gunze USAF Neutral Grey, which wasn't dark enough so one drop of gloss black did the trick. There was quite a bit of masking on the nose, fuselage and vertical fin. Here is the result. I don't know why these panels appeared in this dark color, but it adds a bit of contrast. Next will come some black around the exhausts and  an oil wash.

 

 

37142815180_ea2e2a760f_c.jpg


37142814390_381811b8ce_c.jpg


37142812980_d00034be6e_c.jpg
 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...