Best decal solutions out there.

[samhobbs]

I have been modelling for a number of years now, and have tried both Microsol and Humbrol Decalfix, but have experienced problems with both of them, so I was wondering what are peoples opinions on the best decal solution/s out there, which are available in the UK. 

Thanks, 

Sam

[Ade H]

I can't answer your question, Sam, but it's timely because I may want to make the same switch.

 

I'm having problems with MicroSol on a couple of completely different surfaces, e.g. Tamiya gloss without a clear coat (that may be well known to Tamiya users, but was a nasty surprise to me) and Vallejo Premium varnish (just testing it so far). I thought that MicroSol was supposed to be one of the milder types; opposite end of the scale to SolvaSet, for instance.

 

What problems have you had?

Edited August 17, 2017 by Ade H

[samhobbs]

12 hours ago, Ade H said:

I can't answer your question, Sam, but it's timely because I may want to make the same switch.

 

I'm having problems with MicroSol on a couple of completely different surfaces, e.g. Tamiya gloss without a clear coat (that may be well known to Tamiya users, but was a nasty surprise to me) and Vallejo Premium varnish (just testing it so far). I thought that MicroSol was supposed to be one of the milder types; opposite end of the scale to SolvaSet, for instance.

 

What problems have you had?

I've had a number of problems with Microsol recently, namely decals will conform nicely to raised details, but will not bed down into recessed panel lines and rivets, this is on AK Interactive air series paints, with Johnsons Klear, I've also had Humbrol decal fix stripping Tamiya acrylic paints off my models, even when they were covered with numerous light coats of Johnsons Klear. 

[tank152]

This is my decal solution of choice.

http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/daco-red--heavy-11809-p.asp

There aren't many decals that argue with this stuff, just don't touch the decal after you've applied it. I've never had any sort of reaction off paint when using it either. 

I also use Mr Softener but when using this I always make sure I only cover the decal as I've had it react with paint.

[samhobbs]

7 hours ago, tank152 said:

This is my decal solution of choice.

http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/daco-red--heavy-11809-p.asp

There aren't many decals that argue with this stuff, just don't touch the decal after you've applied it. I've never had any sort of reaction off paint when using it either. 

I also use Mr Softener but when using this I always make sure I only cover the decal as I've had it react with paint.

Thanks for the recommendation, I will consider purchasing some. 

[Gremlin56]

Mr. Mark softer and Mr. Mark setter, hot stuff but gives great results. No issues with any of the acrylic paints I use either.

[Dads203]

I like the Daco solutions for most decals but I find Mr Mark setter and softener 

good for the thick Tamiya and Hasegawa decals, no issues with acrylic paints either.

 

Dan 

[Beardie]

I use Daco Strong and Daco medium depending on how the decals 'feel' coming off the sheet. If they are thin I use the medium and strong for the thicker ones.

[lasermonkey]

One of the things I have found with Mr Mark Softer is that it has a tendency to "bead", rather than stay covering the surface of the decal. I often have to mix it with MicroSol and while it helps it to cover the decal, it rather does defeat the point of using it in the first place!

[old thumper]

After reading reviews I switched from Humbrol Decalfix to Microsol. However after a number of disappointing results I have now returned to decalfix which I find to be excellent. Decalfix will attach decals more tightly to a models surface than I would have thought possible, my only criticism is that it can be hard to remove excess cured decalfix from around decals.

A word of caution about decalfix is that it is to strong for acrylic paint and can melt it, or at least so I am told as I am an enamel user.

 

Often the best products are the ones that are right under our noses and we do not need to search out weird and exotic foreign brands.   

[Bullbasket]

I think this more a case of horses for courses. I think that different decal manufacturers use differing varnishes for the carrier films, so therefore not all decals will react the same way with different setting solutions. You need to try them out to see which ones react best with which decal. I've always found that Microset an Microsol  usually do the job for me, although having said that, they struggle on the thick decals from Tamiya. Not much short of a blow torch will make those sit over raised detail.

 

John. 

[Curtis]

I'm a novelist to decal solutions because I always had put decals on my models with out anything, straight on the plastic model. Now I have a amt model that is practically all decals. I'm open to any suggestions. 

[Paul J]

One mystery I have come across regardless of which decal solution is the 'white residue' run off surrounding the decal area. Its cause is what I would like to know and how i can be cleaned off without causing too much colateral damage.  I have tried water of varying heat levels for instance but not a lot of luck. As for the Humbrol stuff i may be a good idea to wipe away residue before it dries with warm water.

[Nocoolname]

The last time I achieved a 'perfect' decal outcome - genuinely looking as thought they had been painted on without any film step or bump - was 1987 using a combination of enamel paints (thinned and airbrushed, matte paint followed by a gloss coat, then decals, another gloss coat then a matte coat), CAM decals and the two-step solution from Humbrol - Decal Cote 1 and 2. I didn't need any practice or testing, it just all worked, time and again. Nothing I've tried since has come close but has still required lots of testing and messing around.

[Curtis]

What do I do with intense decals over my unpainted plastic model? In the past I just applied them to the model , no pre coating  or post coating. By the way  I'm using Aztec panel decals for the first time. 

Edited June 19, 2021 by Curtis