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The other Tim's Revell 1/48 F15E Strike Eagle - 48 FW, RAF Lakenheath

Tim Moff

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Im in with this kit - apparently the best E model in the scale - I have an Academy E sat in the stash but with me already doing an Academy C model thought I'd build this - actually bought it as I needed the GBU10s (If anyone had a spare GBU10 let me know as I seem to have lost one!) for my F111F El Dorado Canyon build.


Again a personal type build as I am from Lakenheath. Have a variety  of decals to choose from so will see what others build.....however am tempted by a 494 FS Mudhen as I built a 494FS F111F.

















Will be in flight - maybe airbrake up - ruddder from a C?!







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  • 4 weeks later...

After a family holiday got a bit of a start,


Planning a LN Mudhen, yep to decide which one.


Weapons will mainly be from the Academy C model, as it comes with some of the E model sprues, including GBU12s. GBU38s, AIM120Bs, AIM9L/Ms, Sniper pod etc. Yet to decide what to put on!


Got most of the parts off the sprue.












The CFT's will take a bit of fitting and some filler I think. Have attached the pylons on.


Grabbed a pilot from my Academy E kit and one from and Hase F16 as its going to be in flight as normal.


Still looking for a GBU10 for my F111F if there any going!

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Cracking on with both Eagles:



Using the inside of the Mud Hen as a paint mule for the MR Paint Mod Eagle scheme!




A start on the weapons for both models. Some spares too - will be a mix and match from the Academy box and Revell box. Bonus having the 2 x sprue K's in the C kit, as it contains the Academy E kit weapons. Some GBU38's, GBU12's, GBU31's both V1 and V3, will use the Sniper pod as an update to the LANTIRN targeting pod. 2 x AIM120Bs and 2 x AIM9L/Ms as I believe they are yet to be able to carry AIM9X.









Mixing up the fuel tank colours for some interest - 1 x FS 36118 and 1 x FS 36251
























Thinking F15E 00-3002 of the 494FS 'Panthers', as obviously the C is from 493FS 'Grim Reapers' and the F111F i did from that GB was 492FS 'Bolars', so would complete the current wing Sqns....when the 48TFW had F111F, the 495TFS was the 'training' squadron.


Hopefully be close to getting the main build finished....canopy will need the seam sanding, a bit nervous!!










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Canopy Seem removed and polished out using 30 year old Brasso!




Forward section not yet attached




Next to the C  model.








Gotta get the CFTs on - fit does not look great, so will do what I can!

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On 9/1/2017 at 0:16 PM, Tim Moff said:



Gotta get the CFTs on - fit does not look great, so will do what I can!

The kits CFT are the wrong shape were they join ahead of the wing root but most people don't notice..


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Primer on - Mr Finishing Sufacer 1500 thinned with Mr Levellling Thinner, about 30/70, through a 0.3 Neo, about 18-20PSI at the compressor.....I still have issues getting this set up right, sometimes to thick and the the tip blocks, or just too thin?


Anyone use a retarder with this?


Anyways it seems fine.







Will be Mr Paint FS36118, maybe FS36081 for the nose cone for a bit of variety...

Edited by Tim Moff
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So for Black Basing, I used the Badger SOTAR Fine needle, to mottle in a bit of lightened FS36118 and some FS36320, leaving a lot of dark base to simulate effect seen on the aircraft.













So then I started with a thinned Mr Paint FS36118 over the top, hopefully stopping before I lose the effect.












Next step to mask off and do the 'replacement' Flap in the C Model FS36251, the bare metal areas etc.


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OK onwards!



Masking done







Mr Paint White Aluminium on.







Mixed it up with some Mr Color Stainless, Mr Color Aluminium and Mr Color Chrome silver.








Will add some Tamiya smoke/Oils and weather a bit of the lower exhaust area and dry brush the various outlets on the upper surfaces





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Masking off, bit of Tamiya smoke for effect





With its sister!





Lights, ECM wing pod tips, a bit of touching up and soon be ready for gloss cote and decals!

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1 hour ago, madcat911 said:

Good progress here. 


Not sure if you can correct this but you have painted the hot areas on the upper fuselage one panel too far forward. Made the same mistake on my first F-15 build too.







Thanks.....back out with the paint😬......

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Thanks to @madcat911 - he spotted the mistake before I continued - on both airframes!!:facepalm:


So I remasked both, and got on with it as I have 2 days TOIL from being on call weekend!


Got the Black primer on





Mottled with a slightly lighter version of the Gunship Grey:




Misted over, trying to keep the effect







Basic but easy mistake to make when the engines are not on and give a bit of the area perspective!





Painting the lights and ECM 'bulbs', and Gloss Cote on





Gloss on the waepons....nightmare small decal time approaching!





Gun area painted in Iron - bit of touching up needed - the SOTAR fine needle will come out (AGAIN!!).




1st Gloss cote on - X22 mixed with MLT. How many coats do you guys normally do. Big debate on a FB page as to whether you need to gloss cote at all?









Edited by Tim Moff
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I have seen a lot of debate online recently about sanding to a gloss instead of a gloss coat. Not that I have paid much attention as to the benefits so no idea on the details. Only that I have noticed it's a thing. I'll look into it next time I see it mentioned. My best guess is that a gloss surface is in essence a highly smoothed surface so sanding the paint with a fine enough grade to achieve the same level of smoothness to allow the best adhesion for the decal. Alternatively the other use is to protect the paint work. With the resurgence of laquar based paints over acrylics this isn't really needed as they are hard as nails and a lot more durable to weathering products.


In answer to your question I normally give it a couple of coats of Aqua Gloss before decals. Then settle on a final clear coat once decals and any weathering processes need sealing. Most likely semi gloss.


Great work so far.

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That's an interesting question: I always give it just one layer of gloss coat before decalling/washing. But then again, my coating is maybe not perfectly glossy in all areas of the model. So far, however, I had no major silvering. (I will try it next time with two coats and see whether this is easier or better)

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