Dads203 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 I've moved, or rather ripped off and remade the forward brackets on the RHS, noticed that they are actually above the main cabin door and rear brackets are slightly lower down. They need a bit of fettling yet but its easier to shape them up glued to the fuselage, just waiting for the glue to fully cure before that starts. Grab rail added again This side is almost level, just needs a bit removing from the bottom of the rear bracket Cheers Folks Dan 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianthemodeller Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 On 25/01/2018 at 6:10 PM, Dads203 said: Here you go https://www.coastalkits.co.uk/newstore/helipads/1-72-scale-helipads.html https://www.coastalkits.co.uk/newstore/rotor-wash-display-base.html Brilliant - thank you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Tidy bit of work going on here .... / Detail Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Cheers all So the next step, try these HGW rivets, need to test how well these stand up to masking first before committing to the airframe. I've primed a bit of scrap plastic I'll add the decals and then reprime before masking up and spraying a top cost to seal . If these fail the test then I'll not bother the rivet phase as its going to be more trouble than its worth. I've been told that they do not like masking up and pull off easily even under a cote of paint or two, I'll de tack the masking tape first to see how it fairs up, I fear this might be a long job. More work on the undercart And more work on PE grills, I've found some that fit the bill from some old AFV sets as Eduard do not give you a complete set for a Westland Sea King Noticed that I've got a bit more cleaning up around the PE parts yet. Dan 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Dads, I'm sure you already have seen this but @Ex-FAAWAFU has used HGW rivets on his Sea King build (paused). It's a long thread but well worth the read for all things Sea King. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakub Cikhart Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Awesome progress, really. I noticed that top of the engine intake housing is "plain" on your kit. I know it is too late, but there are some holes with grab handles missing, I guess they are for opening the housing. I had a long chat on CZ modelforum about Eduard and their PE set for HC.4, I was asking about the grilles which are missing in their PE set (there is also a ton of other stuff which could be there, like rear view mirrors..). I have one question for Seaking experts. As there is different config of grilles on the engine inlet housing, I compiled a list of Seaking manufacturers. Can anybody confirm that ? Made in USA: USA, Argentina, Brazil, Dennmark, India (UH-3H IN535-IN540), Peru (UH-3H HM492-HM495), Spain Made in UK: UK, Australia, Belgium, Egypt, Germany, India (Sea King Mk42, 42A, 42B), Norway, Pakistan, Qatar Made in Italy: Iran, Iraq, Italy, Malaysia, Peru (AS-61D HA430-HA433, HM490/491), Saudi Arabia, Venezuela What about Canada ? Japan ? Thanks ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moaning dolphin Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 1 hour ago, Jakub Cikhart said: What about Canada Sikorsky, made in America but rebuilt in Canada many times lol! I would say Japanese ones were American built as well, don't think they were built under license. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Cheers All, I did know about the handles on the engine cowling but I couldn't find any decent pictures of the area to replicate them, a bit of a bummer really. And I know what you mean about Eduard, they included so much more on the Dragon/Cyberhobby PE sets than the Airfix kit, very shoddy and the prices just seam to go up and up. I seriously consider if I'm going to use any PE parts from Eduard now as they are not good value for money in my book anymore. They used to be almost a must but not anymore those days are long gone. So the rivets, I'm not really impressed with them TBH, they will be a nightmare keeping them straight on the model as they are covered with a thick blotting type paper cover, which you remove 6 hours after applying. Getting the decal around any surface detail will also prove a mare. Secondly they are not proud, so under a coat of paint they will vanish, the idea was to rivet the airframe at the primer stage and then paint the red and grey over them. To me it would be a real waist of time adding them only for them to disappear on the last stage. I did think that they would be a bit like the Archer rivets that are printed in resin on a carrier film ? Some pictures of what they look like, I'll throw some paint over the top and see what they look like before I pull the plug on this idea. I have the upmost respect for Ex-FAAWAFU for riveting his build knowing how these behave. TTFN Dan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf117 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) Content withdrawn - I will NOT be threatened by a moderator, simply because I queried the actions of another... Edited June 27, 2020 by andyf117 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakub Cikhart Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 21 hours ago, andyf117 said: The first four Canadian CH-124 Sea Kings were built by Sikorsky, and the following 37 by United Aircraft in Montreal. Mitsubishi built Sea Kings under licence as the HSS-2B - and the Japanese aircraft have more grilles than any other version.... Hey, thanks for the info !! This is what I was thinking. And yeah, you can guess by the grilles of which version was produced where .... and yes, the Japanese Seaking has more grilles and are more unique than others. I have only one picture showing the top of the engine inlets showing the grab handles - Does anyone have more pictures ? And it looks like there is one grille between the round intakes - do we have a better shot of this place ? Thanks and have a great weekend ! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 Not one to shy away from adding detail I decided to add the grab handles, thanks Jakub for the photo, it's one of the best that shows this area The plastic is thick enough in the area so using a micro chisel I took out the depressions, I'll add the handles from wire. They still need cleaning up yet, but should look okay under some paint. Dan 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakub Cikhart Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 17 hours ago, Dads203 said: Not one to shy away from adding detail I decided to add the grab handles, thanks Jakub for the photo, it's one of the best that shows this area The plastic is thick enough in the area so using a micro chisel I took out the depressions, I'll add the handles from wire. They still need cleaning up yet, but should look okay under some paint. Dan Fantastic, this is the same approach I was thinking on my build Now to have to find some good head-on view pic of between the intakes to show the grill there. Keep up the good work !! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf117 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) Content withdrawn - I will NOT be threatened by a moderator, simply because I queried the actions of another... Edited June 27, 2020 by andyf117 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 On 25/01/2018 at 8:38 PM, Dads203 said: Thank you Jan A quick question for you Sea King guys , in the hover does the Sea King sit with the nose slightly up ? I’m thinking it is so I’ll need to bend the Perspex rod support to suit the angle. Cheers Dan Nose up and slightly left wing low. If you look at pictures of early HAS1s, they briefly hovered approximately flat. Then we shoved another ton+ of gubbins in the back! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 On 01/02/2018 at 4:29 PM, Dads203 said: Cheers All, I did know about the handles on the engine cowling but I couldn't find any decent pictures of the area to replicate them, a bit of a bummer really. And I know what you mean about Eduard, they included so much more on the Dragon/Cyberhobby PE sets than the Airfix kit, very shoddy and the prices just seam to go up and up. I seriously consider if I'm going to use any PE parts from Eduard now as they are not good value for money in my book anymore. They used to be almost a must but not anymore those days are long gone. So the rivets, I'm not really impressed with them TBH, they will be a nightmare keeping them straight on the model as they are covered with a thick blotting type paper cover, which you remove 6 hours after applying. Getting the decal around any surface detail will also prove a mare. Secondly they are not proud, so under a coat of paint they will vanish, the idea was to rivet the airframe at the primer stage and then paint the red and grey over them. To me it would be a real waist of time adding them only for them to disappear on the last stage. I did think that they would be a bit like the Archer rivets that are printed in resin on a carrier film ? Some pictures of what they look like, I'll throw some paint over the top and see what they look like before I pull the plug on this idea. I have the upmost respect for Ex-FAAWAFU for riveting his build knowing how these behave. TTFN Dan Dan you may not be doing them right (I made exactly the same error in my early efforts); the ;ayer you describe as “thick blotting paper” is a protective cover rather like the thin see-through stuff you get on normal decals. You can (& should) remove this safely before you apply. Use lots of Microset / Sol. Then there is a second very thin film (once dry it looks like silvered ordinary decal carrier film), which you peel off a few hours later. They do take some getting used to, but I think they’re worth theeffort... in 1/48. Not sure I could face them in 1/72! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Thank you chaps, Crisp cheers for the tip on the HGW rivets I might just have a go again and see Andy those pictures are great fella cheers for that. Engine cover handle test number one. Added the missing grill to the front of the engine area, not sure its the right place but its done and staying put. Just got to do a few more things and we are ready for paint at last ( Rivet depending ) Dan 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakub Cikhart Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 4 hours ago, andyf117 said: Like this? Right click and open in new window to enlarge.... As confirmed in this shot (also enlargeable), just the one grille on the inner starboard intake - perhaps the equivalent to the vertical grilles on the port side? Yesssssss !!! Great pics, thanks a lot, they are really helpful !! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf117 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) Content withdrawn - I will NOT be threatened by a moderator, simply because I queried the actions of another... Edited June 27, 2020 by andyf117 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Wing mirror brackets added, and the Pitot probes over the cab, its had another quick blast of primer to see if I managed to sort out some of the rough workmanship around the airframe. looking better. Pitot probes look a bit too long now so they will get cut down further. More later folks Dan 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 In front of the two lovely handles you made above the exhausts, on the engine cowling/door there is a small square hatch, held on with butterfly style dzuz-fasteners, that opens up to reveal another handle. it could well be just as visible, and easier to deal with as it would only be a small rectangle. this is to open the cowling/work platform around the engine. the one platform around the transmission has just a recessed small handle. And insanely awesome workmanship sir! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Thank you Winnie Added the small hatch and started to build up the cowl looking bar in the top, it needs shaping up yet and reducing in height which I'll do once the glue is fully cured. Also added the FLIR wiring harness and the area that's greased up for the SACRU release cable or I think it is? Its sprayed in white at the moment bit I'll add some Tamiya clear yellow and orange hopefully to show the grease. Tail rotor has been sprayed white , next up to mask it off and spray the red areas for the warning markings. I'll also add the cable for the spot light on the other side of the fuselage this afternoon. Cheers for looking in Dan 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moaning dolphin Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 15 minutes ago, Dads203 said: area that's greased up for the SACRU release cable or I think it is? That strip is just sacrificial tape to stop the rope chafing on the airframe, no grease as such. From what I remember it was clear tape on top of the external paint but over time the adhesive would darken and give the crappy dark orange type look, I think the edges were PRC'd to seal it on. I think a dark orange clear cover would be a good representation Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Massimo Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 It's incredible to see how many bits and grills and antennas there are on a helo like this!!! You did great to transfer all this to your model which is absolutely superb!!! Looking forward to sehow you handle those rivets ( are you sure you've got enough of them...did you count them at least twice? ...I'd give it another check!!!) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 19 minutes ago, massimo said: It's incredible to see how many bits and grills and antennas there are on a helo like this!!! You did great to transfer all this to your model which is absolutely superb!!! Looking forward to sehow you handle those rivets ( are you sure you've got enough of them...did you count them at least twice? ...I'd give it another check!!!) Cheers Massimo, I'm not sure that i'll bother with the rivets, I've done a bit of an experiment with them and they don't really show through the paint, a real shame but I reckon I've added enough detail to the airframe to make it busy for the eye. So the test of the rivets, Mr Surfacer primer , decal of rivets added and then a blast with Mr Paint the results are below. The single row of rivets has gone .... the double row is only just visible, when I say only just its almost gone Now it would take me a few hours to do the airframe in these HGW rivets, I'm not going to bother if it all fails to show through the paint, I've used Mr Paint as its like Alclad, it shows every lump and bump underneath it but here we can see the rivets have gone So I've added the handles on the sand filter, they might need doing again as I think I've not left enough for the intakes to slip past the lower bar ? Cheers Dan 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 IR spotlight wired up. Cheers Dan 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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