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Revell 1/32 Bf109G-6 JG300 "Red 8" Finished!! :)


galgos

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Ah, but in the earlier pictures of Gabler's 109 the squiggles aren't there Alistair.  Tell me the potential benefits of using a black under colour please, I hadn't considered it but I'm open to being educated if it's beneficial! :)

Max 

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Hi max

i first came across the use of black as a primer for the Alclad range of metallic lacquers . I THINK (not sure) that using black gives more depth to the metallic finish and if you use gloss black the finish will be more shiny and reflective . (possibly chrome finish  ) . If using a mat undercoat ,from my experience its useful to go over when fully dry with a buffing stick to remove any rough surfaces .

 

Probably best to experiment on something expendable first !

Im going to do the under wings of my K -14 this way in the next few days

 

good luck

Alistair

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13 minutes ago, MikeC said:

Hi Max, following this with interest.  I've got this kit and the Alley Cat upgrade.  Looking good.

Morning Mike, fingers crossed the Alley Cat set should arrive this morning.  I'm not going to be using all of it, just the control surfaces, beules and spinner/prop blades I think.

 

Alistair, thanks for that.  On balance I don't intend using a black undercoat a) because the Mr Paints aren't like Alclad in my experience and b) because I don't want a shiny finish but I certainly intend experimenting first!!

Max 

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A test of anodised aluminium on a 1/48 Hurricane which I use as a "hack".  The undersides were sprayed with Tamiya fine grey primer, one wing (left as viewed) had a black undercoat before top coating, the other is just top coated onto the primer.  The difference is so subtle as to make the black not worthwhile except that a heck of a lot more paint is required to cover it effectively!  The next stage is to "ghost" in remnants of the original colour scheme that were mostly sanded off.

 

vgADwb.jpg

 

Had a quick squiggle practice too but more required before the real thing. :)

Max

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  • galgos changed the title to Revell 1/32 Bf109G-6 JG300 "Red 8"

Hiya, good idea to practice on a hack.

I did this plane last year (1/48) but went for a black instead of red 8 as it looked more like a match for the pics, especially when the model is photo'd in B&W. 

 

I did an alclad base, then a patchy finish of soft Vallejo model color for the remnants of camo which can be seen, most of which was sanded off with fine 2400 emery paper. Same for the tail cross, which was masked and sprayed, then sanded back. Note white(?) tail tip to drop tank. 

 

Here's a link if it helps to give you some ideas. 

 

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005104-eduard-148-bf109g6-jg300-kurt-gabler-not-very-nmf/

 

Tony

 

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8 minutes ago, Tony Oliver said:

Hiya, good idea to practice on a hack.

I did this plane last year (1/48) but went for a black instead of red 8 as it looked more like a match for the pics, especially when the model is photo'd in B&W. 

Tony

 

Hello Tony, I noticed this morning that you had joined the GB.  I already have your build bookmarked, very impressed with the finish you achieved and I'd been happy if I get somewhere near it.  Using Mr Paint, a very thin ink-like paint I'm going for a different method of attack though.

Cheers

Max

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Yeah thats cool Max cheers, 

 

Although nothing beats the look of 'sanded off' paint than actual sanded off paint, especially when it comes to the tail crosses etc. It looks a bit coarse in 1/48 but gets the idea across. It would look great if you tried something like that in 1/32 as would be more apparent/acceptable to see some sanding marks? Perhaps a ghosting of the camo remanants would perhaps just look like really faded as opposed to sanded paint? 

 

And yeah joined the gb with a couple of 1/48 k4's. Hoping to start next week on those...

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A light misting of RLM75 Grauviolet polished, rather than sanded, with a Flory blue stick!  I'll settle for something along these lines:

 

Wy2Z8H.jpg

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The Alley Cat upgrade set for my G6 has finally arrived, I have to say that I'm disappointed that the "beules" are no longer included with this set but are now with the cowling upgrades, so I'll have to use the supplied kit items, no big deal I guess especially to the uninitiated like me!  These are the items I'll be using, a few others like the joystick and seat aren't required:

 

Ni4WL4.jpg

 

Plenty to crack on with now though..... :)

Max

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So, bit of a cock up on the exhausts front! I'd read that the Alley Cat exhausts could be fitted towards the end of the build, and so they can, individually. What I didn't appreciate was that the support bracket had to be fitted BEFORE the airframe was closed up!!  Hmmm?  Radical action required, I have a solution which I hope will work, time later to tackle it.

Max 

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I hope this pic can help . Its of my G-6 sitting on desk for around 2 years but does show possition that you are aiming for . I have tested it and the exhausts do fit .

 

35791496805_f13af87240_b.jpgP1020385 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr

 

Good luck

Alistair

 

Ps i do have a spare Alley cat cowling (you get two types in the upgrade) that i can send you which would give the option of removing kit parts to gain accses to the exhaust back plate .

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Thanks Alistair, that picture is incredibly helpful since the Alley Cat fitting instructions and pictures are as good as useless.. If plan A doesn't work I may well take you up on your kind offer.

Thanks

Max 

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So here's the solution; open up the nose to access the interior in order to locate the exhaust manifold brackets:

 

L5K1Zu.jpg

 

Comparing the kit parts with Alley Cat's it's clear which way round they fit:


f50R5R.jpg

 

And I've made a highly sophisticated and technical tool to help with getting them in place, expertly bent sprue coated with Liquid Tape which, when dry is tacky enough to hold objects temporarily:


ID6Sna.jpg

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I've started the painting stage, she's been primed with Tamiya Extra Fine grey primer, rubbed down with a 10000 polishing block to get an ultra-smooth surface then top-coated completely with MRP Anodized Aluminium.  This paint is very thin and sprays beautifully but it shows any flaws in the surface so preparation is everything!

 

f9Nhru.jpg

 

I understand the gun troughs were made of a tougher metal so I've sprayed those steel:


EXMggb.jpg

 

The next stage is the lightest of applications of top camouflage which will then be polished back.

Max

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Hi this is looking good.

 

That panel line on the cowling below the gun troughs is not on the Real G6 cowl...

 

It's on the Revell G6 and Hasegawa 1/48 G6 kits as it allows them to mould the cowling top with the hinge detail. In an ideal world it should be filled..

 

Given all the work and resin you are investing in the build I thought you might want to know..

 

HTH

 

Plasto

Edited by Plasto
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Thanks for pointing that out Plasto. To be honest I'm not that bothered about a panel line or two in the wrong place with this build so it'll probably stay there.

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5 minutes ago, galgos said:

Having slept on it and looked this morning at a few pictures of 109s, those "panel lines" have to go, dammit!! 

I'm sure you will get a large dose of satisfaction when its done and you will forever notice those models where its been ignored and have a private smile :D

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3 minutes ago, Mottlemaster said:

I'm sure you will get a large dose of satisfaction when its done and you will forever notice those models where its been ignored and have a private smile :D

So true Alistair, in fact I've just been into the model room and applied a thin smear of putty along the lines which I'll sand back after breakfast. It was fortunate that I took a lot of trouble fitting the top cowl because corrective action now is minimal.

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