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Halifax B Mk. I/II/GRII - Revell 1/72


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2 hours ago, CedB said:

The fit is nice but not tight so they're a bit limp:

Woof bark etc.

 

Todays tip - If you miss drilling a hole in (for example) a wing, hopefully the plastic is of a light colour.

Hold it up in front of a bright light. The hole position should show up as a black dot. Mark it with a pen

and drill the hole at your leisure.

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3 hours ago, chaddy said:

Exactly right for a parked Halifax...oh wait! Yours is flying...:pilot:

 

 

Thanks chaddy - she has had her elevators stiffened during the Lego action:

 

36247039075_9bdcb39973_z.jpg

Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Thanks Jari - more great pictures :) 1/72 horseshoes? Too much for me! Of course, like 'Ruhrhuhr' that could refer to 'Ladies of the Night' too! You have to have the right accent (and a slightly warped mind) :wicked:  

 

Thanks Giorgio - there will be wine tonight! :) 

 

Thanks Pete - great tip for locating missed holes (this is getting... ugh, OK) yip yip fnarr! :D 

 

Thanks Simon - I may get some of those pills, but for now I'll stick to Tamiya Extra Thin (and now puns!) :D

 

Thanks Bill - twern't me, honest! :) 

 

 

Rudders ready for when the tailplanes are dry:

 

35413567024_838bdfd8fb_z.jpg

 

No, I didn't assemble the other fins and THEN choose as the instructions would have you do. See, I'm learning, just very slowly.

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19 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Hold it up in front of a bright light. The hole position should show up as a black dot

 

You may even be able to see a slightly raised disc-shape from the top-side (what I do when, not if, I forget), but Mr Pete's version is much more robust. If the light source is bright enough (don't hold it up against the sun, though!), you may even see through dark-coloured plastic. Apologies for the serial antipodean posts, caused by not noticing the page-flip, in my impatience to congratulate you on the Nigella-like black. I meant to last night, and forgot.

 

Another thing that I forgot to mention was the rear turret photo - which shows the flaps down when parked. And the apparent ease with which the Hallibag is flying with the two starboard engines stopt (and props feathered?). We don't, of course, know what sort of struggle the poor pilot was going through to keep it straight-and-level(ish)

 

 

Edited by AlexN
My appalling typing is getting even worse :(
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The second photograph, showing the Preston-Green ventral installation, indicates the relative complexity of the bomb bay doors in their open position. The outer door is in relief of the fuselage line. The Revell kit has the outer doors moulded flush with the fuselage.

 

From my limited perspective, the Revell bomb bay inner doors, when set open, are set a bit too flush to the line of the lower fuselage and warrant being set a bit more proud of the fuselage line ( that is, hanging lower).

 

 

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Enright
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Thanks Alex - Stynylrez, 0.4 nozzle, 25-30psi, easy as pie :pie: 

 

Thanks Bill - yep, I now see the path before me :) 

 

Thanks Simon - the Stynylrez black primer is great IMHO - and good enough for the final finish so even better for lazy people like me. I used to enjoy Snooker but there's fewer and fewer places that are prepared to give up the space I guess :)

 

Thanks Giorgio - big she is. I think I may leave the wings off until right at the end to save space and avoid accidents :) 

  

Thanks Jari - more great photos. It's started me thinking about weathering; she seems to be quite clean in those shots :) 

 

Thanks Michael - great information, as usual.

 

 

Empennage and spinners primed.

 

36091706342_17e8e7e732_z.jpg

 

Turrets and props next :) 

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Props first as they need to dry between gluings.

In all excitement of fitting the resin I'd forgotten to fit the shaft stubs into the nacelles so now there are two holes:

 

36125185251_cae0aa8b99_z.jpg

Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Looking at these parts and the holes, I don't think they would have fit with the resin parts anyway:

 

36259421065_edfefebe24_z.jpg

 

but maybe I can use them if I cut off the fronts? A bit of craft saw action on the sprue to cut the fronts off and I now have four stubs, but the shaft is too long (fnarr snurf):

 

36092089192_3ae089c596_n.jpg 35426690874_526f4d1fc6_n.jpg

 

Out with some rod, the saw and mitre block to make sure the shafts are the same length AND have flat ends and glued with CA:

 

36125511351_e4fda63990_n.jpg 36125618681_a382aa8a23_n.jpg

 

Check the reference shots, confirm right-handed props, adjust the height of the PropMasterTM and stick a bit of BluTak on the platform to stop it moving. Drill out the hubs, trim the prop ends and in no time (more like 20 minutes including setup) we have a prop in the jig:

 

36260211115_8076e1e8ab_z.jpg

 

One down, three to go.

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6 hours ago, Michael Enright said:

The second photograph, showing the Preston-Green ventral installation, indicates the relative complexity of the bomb bay doors in their open position. The outer door is in relief of the fuselage line. The Revell kit has the outer doors moulded flush with the fuselage.

 

From my limited perspective, the Revell bomb bay inner doors, when set open, are set a bit too flush to the line of the lower fuselage and warrant being set a bit more proud of the fuselage line ( that is, hanging lower).

 

 

 

Michael

 

A small drawing of how the bomb doors looked when open.

 

Hally door

 

 

Chris

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Thanks guys, very kind as always :) 

Thanks for the drawing Chris :) 

 

The mitre block is one of John's at UMM available here. I bought it (for $14.95), and a SCR-02 scriber, when I ordered the PropMaster to 'justify' the postage :whistle: 

All great tools but note that the mitre only works with mini saw blades like the JLC. Paul has the JLC version for £20.

 

Props all done:

 

36222126646_1b96e267e2_z.jpg

 

Handling has caused a bit of 'weathering', some of which is nice but I'll touch up the other bits before fitting.

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