keefr22 Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 9 hours ago, CedB said: Paul A H's model and it looks really good but still has a little gap with the Freightdog radiators (just visible in the third photo). I don't know Halibag's at all well Ced, but might there be a panel line there on the real thing? I have no doubt you'll get that close! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 10 hours ago, TonyTiger66 said: The thinners was so ludicrously, wantonly, pleasurably inflammable. 40 foot white flames when poured on a bonfire 🔥 🔥 . I can't believe that the judge reacted well to this in your opening statement Tony. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Thanks Keith - I'm sure you're right and I'm sure there'll be one on mine! Thanks Tony - I know... TT obviously is a bit of a piro pyrow fire fan eh? Brace yourselves. Choose your weapons. Riffler files? Sanding sticks? Nah, something with POWER required so out with the dental burrs. This nice router-like thing should do it: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Damp brush for clean up. I find you need to use the Dremel (with flex-drive) on a low setting for this otherwise the burrs melt the plastic and create dents. Get a firm grip on both parts too (fnaar!) The task is to remove the step all around the resin and blend it in: All done! We'll get some close ups later I'll bet 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Ced: the gunky condition of this aircraft paradoxically seems to display the relevant panel lines around the front of the engines rather well: Image credit Duggy009 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyTiger66 Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 6 minutes ago, TheBaron said: I can't believe that the judge reacted well to this in your opening statement Tony. Ced: the gunky condition of this aircraft paradoxically seems to display the relevant panel lines around the front of the engines rather well: Image credit Duggy009 Now that would be a nice weathering project 👍🏼. It looks there are mesh (filters?) on those nacelle side intakes too. I'm still learning about Halibags, apologies for poor knowledge of correct terminology. What unusual shaped exhausts in that photo! A really good job done on fairing those in Ced; right tool for the job! Best regards TonyT (Out of likes again). PS: Tony; the Judge was more understanding when I explained that I was just trying to warm up the old people's home 🔥 🔥 . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Thanks Tony (TheBaron) - now that's what I call a timely photo - thanks very much! (See below) Thanks TT - too dirty that, even for me (fnaar!) I've bought the Quickboost 'type B' exhausts because, yes, they're weird aren't they? These little bits fit, sometimes: They're too tiny to sand off the model so they'll get some attention when the CA is dry. The top intakes go on with a bit of a gap (of course): Then it's on to these little bug swin parts: No mesh in there TT, sorry. How to fit a flat intake on a round nacelle... Tony's image shows that they're vertical on a flat bit, not on a curve. Hmmm. This isn't right then? which means they need to go 'up a bit' and the holes in the nacelle need filling. Perhaps this time the Milliput mix won't be too much! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaddy Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Just trying this new-fangled photo sharing thingy out. Never had any props with PB! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Coming on nicely Ced, I`m looking forward to following the rest of this build mate. For the upper intakes on the inner engines, which you have pictured here; I found on mine that it was better to sand the top of the nacelle flat where the resin intake goes,.....just draw around the resin part, remove it and then sand the area flat,....it fits much better then! Sorry if this is teaching you to suck eggs,....I just found it easier that way, Cheers Tony 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 The mis-match between the resin and plastic is looking less obvious now, have you been scraping the plastics back to give a more 'hollow cheeked ' look? John PS panic over on the iPlayer front, I've just registered using my ISP address which is .com rather than .fr and it worked. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyTiger66 Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 This is tricky stuff Ced, as usual you're showing great tenacity and winning I'm probably wrong, but, Looking at chaddy's photograph; Is it possible that the small side vents go a little further away from the bottom edge of the cowl; i.e. closer to the wing on the flatter part of the cowl side? It's hard to put into words. I'm comparing where the vent is on the port outer nacelle (in chaddy's photo) to where it is placed in the last photo of your last post. I don't know if this clip from my 70's 'Wings' magazine is useful: Best regards TonyT 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 15 minutes ago, TonyTiger66 said: I don't know if this clip from my 70's 'Wings' magazine is useful... ...thereby comprehensively vindicating the default modeller position of never throwing anything away! My wife doesn't really get this; 'but you've read all those magazines, so why do you keep so many?" Your use of a magazine that had clearly been retained for over 40 years is exemplary; I salute you! 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 More timely photos - thanks chaps! Thanks Tony (OT) - good tip! I had filed the nacelle flat but not, sadly, the bottom of the chopped off resin. Rats. A bit of Milliput will sort the small gap later and, from what I can see in photos, I need to blend in the back too. Thanks John - yes, I did grind down the plastic so that the curves were 'even' with the resin. Glad you've sorted out iPlayer too - I'd hate you to miss any of the oldies Thanks chaddy and TT for the photos. Using this I positioned the intakes thus: Happy with those (as far as they go) and, thankfully, that's the end of the resin bits on the nacelles. There will be some Milliput action soon. 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Nice resiny bits Ced! Did you get a pic of the kit nacelles next to the resin ones so we can see just how bad they were? Ian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaddy Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Just to keep the pot boiling and your interest in JB910 going (no backsliding and modelling a different aircraft). Sorry for the poor quality of the scan, but the copy I obtained from the RAF Museum wasn't that good. Herewith a potted history of the life of JB910: 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Sorry Ian, I had promised to do that but forgotten. Here's the best I can do now: They don't look too bad, do they? Apart from the straight edges. And the missing bottom radiator. You probably wouldn't notice if you squinted. Except the intakes of course. Thanks chaddy for the potted history - interesting Searching for other 'may need Milliput' parts I looked at the wheel bay doors. What a treat for us 'wheels up' modellers: Lovely fit too, so the wheels have been assembled and given a dab of tyre black. Quickboost exhausts next, shown here with the protecting bars broken off the block: Separate port and starboard pipes. Here's the 'I have no patience' removal technique; break them off and then trim off the flash with a couple of strokes of a #10A: They look suitably weird when fitted with CA: You can see them better from the side in the first shot above. Check chaddy's reference shot above - gap at front and back - check (weird!) 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaddy Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Here's another view. (Great, I seem to be handling this Flikr malarkey quite well now). 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Dremel action! Oh yes! Great job Ced, also with all other resin bits Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Hello ced. Looking good so far. Good job. I would just sand down the upper front nacelles till they are plain with the lower resin parts. The Dremel should fix that easily with a bit care 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 You are really getting on top of those engines now Ced. I have been thinking about adding a Merlin engine Halifax to the stash for a while now but think I will track down a Matchbox example. Martian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Procopius Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 On 7/21/2017 at 8:27 AM, CedB said: Just a minute though, doesn't that nose remind you of someone? You know, that robot in Star Wars that was running the workshop where... oh all right, suit yourself. Ced, you nerd! (That's EV-9D9. "Ah, new acquisitions. Good. I have need of you on the master's sail barge.") 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 6 hours ago, Procopius said: Ced, you nerd! (That's EV-9D9. "Ah, new acquisitions. Good. I have need of you on the master's sail barge.") The visor-like nose in that shot is most Dreddfull to behold: 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 Thanks chaddy - another great shot Flame damping shrouds fitted... Michael sent me a drawing that says these were 'soon discarded' - phew! Thanks Giorgio - always good to have a Dremel handy Thanks Benedikt - done! Thanks Martian - I think the kit's a good one in terms of fit. Just not accurate for all variants I guess Thanks PC - that's the one! I'd spent ages searching for 'Star Wars robots' and the like; you can imagine how long that took! Nerd? Me? Thanks Tony - ah, Dredd, great films In other news the scaffolding is now up, finally, but it's raining so no paint action from the boys yet. I had a cunning plan to show them which of the sash windows actually opened (most have been painted shut or lost their chord before we moved in years ago); I printed out some A4 signs with 'Opens' and an arrow on them and stuck them to the windows with masking tape (DIY type). It was only when I was sat in the garden enjoying the sun that I looked back at the house, saw the scaffolding and realised they were, effectively, 'Burglars please enter here' signs. Best laid plans. Now removed. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 Part-painted (lazy) wheels balanced on the doors and glued: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr There seems to be no other way of mounting these so I just hope I don't push one back in during handling (snurf titter). Back of the radiator thingies sanded and general tidy-up around the nacelles: Masking mojo - use it or lose it! No masks for the Z nose so tape, cocktail stick and #6 blade. The frames on the main nose part are indistinct so I'm expecting to have to clean up later: I've also removed the mask on the lower windows and cut it down on the upper ones - we'll see what it looks like but I may dab some Milliput in there later. Now that was done, a fun bit - I was able to position and glue 'Michael's Bomb Aimer': Nice! 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 1 hour ago, CedB said: Part-painted (lazy) wheels balanced on the doors and glued: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Could you glue a bit of sprue at the rear of the wheel and the door part? By where the clip is it the photo. I used 1/24 angled Airfix sprue bits during my Bf109 build to stop accidentally pushing bits in and strengthening joins. I guess you could use regular sprue bits though. Just a thought. great work btw. Johnny. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 I was wondering where Procopius was just yesterday, and speak of the devil! Boiing! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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