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109G-6/AS backdated from FineMolds G-10


JackG
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Group shot of the kit and extras, (small set of turned brass guns and antenna still in transit):

 

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Might go with the bottom scheme of the Nachtjagdgruppe, so good thing the kit has a spiral decal as none are provided by H-Models set.  Going fo an inflight model, so a resin pilot from PJ Productions replaces the sort of chunky looking injected one.  Canopy mask are designed for AZ Models, but hope they prove of some use here.

 

regards,

Jack

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you Simon and Stew - time to get rolling on this one ...

 

The MASTER gun barrels and pitot tube arrived last week.

 

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The resin replacement pilot has a too narrow stance to fit properly.  Legs had to be snapped at the hips and re-pinned in place.

While the putty was out to fill in crevices, also fashioned an oxygen mask w/hose.   The control stick was also just short of his grasp, so brass rod replacement there.

 

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Some surface details that need to be either removed or repositioned: 

 

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Not sure I'll be able to re-scribe the detail on the nose, might just create the appropriate detail on some clear decal film.

 

regards,

Jack

 

 

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Great start Jack. i love the Master barrels and pitot. They are so far ahead of the Original parts.

I hope you can manage the oil fill cap.

 

Cheers,

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Hello Greg and Arniec - thanks!

 

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Pilot and cockpit done - nothing really special with the kit, detail is sufficient given the scale.  Machine gun sub-assembly also in position.

 

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Upper wing halves glued onto lower wing.  Before doing that, I did measure out and drilled holes to place some wire as a brace/post in front of the rads.  A bit more work sliding the wire through the upper wing, but at least here it is more sturdier with the thicker plastic than trying to drill a hole in the rad itself.  Plus, cleanup of the surface is free of any worries of marring surrounding detail.

 

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The kit includes three types of rudders - for the 109 G-6/AS, the taller rudder without the extra trim tabs on the trailing edge is the one to go with.  Also removed the raised detail representing the actuator arm, replacing with stainless steel wire.

 

The underside fuselage intake is perhaps the one area requiring the most attention for backdating, as it needs to be the earlier shallow type.  I've made a start of cutting it open by scribing with a needle.  Razor saw would be quicker, but I find the blades too flimsy to give a straight cut.  A couple bulges in the forward end also need to be removed.

 

regards,

Jack

 

 

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More great work Jack :yes:

 

Those small details make a big difference to the kit. These late model 109s had lots of variations by type, which can be a nightmare when trying to identify which variant you are looking at. Point in case being those nose bulges you are removing.

 

Looking good.

 

Cheers Greg

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Thanks Greg.

 

Further to that chin piece, the engraved lines associated with those bulges also need to be filled in, but will be mostly taken care with the initial sanding.  There are a couple latches on both sides that need to be retained (can be seen in the line drawing from 2nd post - look like vertical rectangles).  Oddly, Finemolds did not include this small detail on the starboard side, only port - one of which is right on the bulge.

 

regards,

Jack

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Oil cooler intake rebuilt:

 

35166116285_71eb61c48c_b.jpg

 

Compared to line drawings, I noticed the air control flap at the rear was shorter than that of the G-10, so that piece was completely cut out.  Some plastic card was used to make up the difference for the shorter flap, and also acts as the rear filter detail (second half of above photo).

 

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Also added some plastic card to act as a false bottom to block in some of the surrounding that can be seen through the open ends of the oil cooler.  Steel wire in place for bracing detail at the front.

 

For the spent ammo chutes, the plastic holes was hollowed out to make way for some thin sections of brass sheet. 

 

regards,

Jack

Edited by JackG
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More great work Jack.

 

I am envious of your fine detail skills, which are really adding to the look of your 109.

 

Looking forward to the next bits :smile:

 

Cheers

 

Greg

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Good job!

 

Following this build with interest.

 

Very nice painting of the pilot! Bringing more "life" to the model when there is some one in the cockpit I think!

 

-Thomas :smile:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you Greg and Thomas.

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Belly rack is now in place, but picture quality not the best.

 

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Couple areas also needed putty.  First under the nose to smooth out the transition from the pair of bulges that were removed.  Then in  the strut location, as this will be a wheels up display.

 

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Spruced up the drop tank a bit, most of the details outlined in the photo.

 

The tail also needs to be backdated to the G-6, this being a rounded instead sharp bottom corner.  Tail light had to be reintroduced at a slightly higher point, and a trim tab added to round out the fixes here.

 

regards,

Jack

 

 

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Hi Jack,

 

I am loving watching your 109 come together. All the intricate detail really stands out. It a great looking kit too. I have never built a Finemoulds model but t hey look really good quality.

 

Cheers Greg :clap:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you Alistair and Greg.

 

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At the stage now ready to add primer and paint, but first will be some RLM 66 on the canopy frame.  Btw, the canopy masking worked out fairly well, almost perfect in some areas. 

 

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Above are the parts left separate for ease of painting, but here is the remaining details for backdating to the G-6/AS as well as

improving some details:

 

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Antennas on top were replaced with brass, as I have a bad habit of breaking plastic ones.  The loop antenna should also have a flatness to it when viewed from the sides, instead of being a ring.

 

On the starboard engine side, the upper access cover needs to be removed, so a simple fill in here.  The vent scoop on the clear canopy part also needs to be added - the kit part had this more to the rear. 

 

I wasn't sure what type prop blades would be correct for this one.   I have read that initially the thinner blade of the G-6 was kept (which really didn't take advantage of the more powerful engine), but eventually would be replaced with the broader paddle VDM 9-12159.   I believe this the type provided in the G-10 boxing?  Since this is going to be an inflight display, simple answer is to not use any.

 

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The wheels up position required adding some sort of swivel detail to the upper part of the struts.  The wheels themselves also had to be sanded for the doors to sit flush.

 

I've also embedded a brass tube into the lower fuselage to later accept a length of stainless steel wire for the whip antenna. 

 

regards,

Jack

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Greg,  base coat of RLM 76 and Florys wash applied.

 

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Since the engraved detail is so fine, I thought I'd try sandwiching the wash between the two applications of future clear.  That second brushing rejuvenated the dark wash, giving a patchy look to the detailing.  Will try sort that out after the decal stage, hopeful to do that Friday.

 

regards,

Jack

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Most of the decals are on now, am actually using four sources if you include the home made ones.  All balkenkreuz are from the H-MODELS set, and though they include a few stencils too, I opted for the ones from FineMolds as they are a lot crisper.  H-M has their swastikas printed in halves plus they look kind of beefy, so went with a pair from Aeromaster AN72184 assorted set.

 

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The inset photo show the home made decal for the circular access cover on the nose.  A few other areas also need decals made to replace/enhance details and will point those out next update.

 

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Above is the JG 3 emblem, and you can see a couple problems with H-Models sample, the wing section is filled in and they all face one way.  So on the right are the new ones I've made printed on white decal paper.  Plan is to use both decals, and lay my home made ones on top, stay tuned ...

 

regards,

Jack

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Hello Stix - thx!

 

Can't believe a whole week went by while I tried to master nose spirals.  It took several tries, but it's almost there, just have to file down some paint build up on the nose tip.

 

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I found the scale is too small to use a single width of Tamiya tape to replicate the spiral, as it would buckle trying to create the sharp curves.  Someone mentioned electrical tape, which is not much better.   Also, any lateral movement caused the adhesive to smear, resulting in a black mess.

So back to Tamiya tape, cut in very thin strips of less than 0.5mm, and some liquid mask to fill in between.   All I can say, it's not easy to achieve equal widths of black and white stripes with this method.

 

regards,
Jack

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external tank - check

landing gear - check

 

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The main main wheels/door assembly was attached with Apoxie Sculpt. Just rolled a section and dropped them in the wells, and then pressed landing gear in place - no worries of glue oozing out.

All decals on, but a few of my home made ones are on the thick side, so applying more acrylic future and sanding those down (rinse and repeat).

 

regards,

Jack

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