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Gunthar Rall 109 G-2; On to the Cockpit!


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It is 12:30 a.m. May 6, 2017 in my time zone and I can’t sleep.  So, what should I do?  Since I am building the Trumpeter 1/32 Avenger at breathtakingly, almost inhumanely slow speed (been working on the engine for the past month, still isn’t finished!) what does my addled brain think will help the situation?  That’s right, let’s participate in a group build and pick out a 1/24 kit to build.  That will help the pace on the Avenger.  But, at the speed I am building, guess it can’t hurt much.

The kit is the 1/24 Trumpeter Bf 109 G-2.

 

Box Art

 

I built the G-6 version many years ago in the Eric Hartman’s livery.  For a while, I have been thinking about building one of the planes flown by Gunthar Rall.  I briefly met General Rall at one of those “greet the speaker” at the end of a lecture he was giving.  I am sure, for him, it was just one more painful smile and shake hands with the masses ordeals that comes with speaking engagements, but he was very kind with everyone who wanted to meet him, was always smiling, attempted to make each greeting somewhat personal, and just seemed to be a very likeable gentleman.  Throughout his lecture, he underplayed his own skills and the tragedies he endured during WWII.  The G-2 by Trumpeter has markings for one of General Rall’s aircraft.

 

Color Scheme

 

At times, Trumpeter’s decals are not quite up to snuff in what they are supposed to represent and the quality of printing.  However, a search of the internet gives several different versions of the same aircraft represented by the Trumpeter G-2 kit.

 

rall 1

 

rall 3

 

ralls 2

 

rall 4

 

Yeah, I know the last one is of a Fw 190, but I also think I have the Trumpeter version of this kit too!  Anyway, several sources other than what is inside of Trumpeter’s box seem to agree on the color scheme for General Rall’s G-2.  So, with that sorted, what’s in the box?

 

Innards

 

At some point in time, I must have purchased the Eduard placard set for this kit, yea me!

 

Eduard

 

Next step, see if I might be able to join this cheery group of 109 fans and their group build?  If so, then the next step is actually building this kit.  I think I have missed every group build deadline I have started. (At least I’m consistent!)  As always, all comments are welcome.

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Watching with interest George.

 

Ive been thinking about tackling one of these large Trumpeter kits myself so it will interesting to see how it goes together.

 

James

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39 minutes ago, franky boy said:

Watching with interest George.

 

Ive been thinking about tackling one of these large Trumpeter kits myself so it will interesting to see how it goes together.

 

James

James,

I may be in the minority, but I really do like Trumpeter kits.  For the most part they are well engineered, have fairly decent OOB detail and don't cause too many headaches during the build.  Now, there may be accuracy complaints and sometimes their decals are less than adequate, but building them is generally a fun thing to do.  There are some kits that are easy to find on sale.  I built the G-6 version in the early 2000s and it was my first, really large scale build in coming back to the hobby.  It was a good kit to learn on.  Go grab one and start it up!

18 minutes ago, vppelt68 said:

Welcome George! I think participating in a GB is great, finishing a build is a bonus :pilot:

V-P

I would like to be able to finish just one group build in a timely manner.  That would be great.

2 minutes ago, Mottlemaster said:

Very good to see a 1/24 kit in the G/B .will follow your progress.

 

Cheers

Alistair

Or a lack of good common sense on my part!  I hope I won't let you down.

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First build update.  So, what does the instructions call out to begin the build; the engine.  Oh my, what I am stuck on with the Avenger.  If I remember, though, the engine in this kit is nowhere near as complex as the engine for the Avenger.  First step is to complete the basic engine block with these parts.

 

Engine parts 1

 

The detail on the parts is pretty good.

 

Engine parts 2

 

I am just going to build up the block, before I begin adding all the little part components to the engine.  If I remember from the G-6 build, the block had some fit issues for me and there were gaps and cracks that needed to be filled and sanded.  I figure it will be lots easier to sand if I leave off all the hangy-on things.   And, I remembered correctly.  There are a number of gaps that need to be corrected before paint and more detail can be added.

 

Engine gaps 1

 

Engine Gaps 2

 

Engine Gaps 3

 

Engine Gaps 4

 

Engine Gaps 5

 

Engine Gaps 6

 

Now, to be fair to Trumpeter, the gaps may be just me and my high-quality building style.  I am not one of those builders that announces after the kit is completed that no filler was needed.  I always use filler; always!  Once the glue hardens, then some very old, congealed Mr. Surfacer will be used to fill the gaps.  It is no longer Mr. Surfacer, it is more like dissolved putty thanks to me not quite tightening the lid correctly and then losing the jar for about a year.  I did break out the nose cannon so I could keep the parts in alignment while the glue dries.  There are some seams that need to be dealt with before it is installed.

 

Cannon

 

And this is where I stopped as I need to get a bit of rest before daybreak as there are chores to do.  Modeling must wait.  I don’t know if I am going to display the engine yet.  On my G-6 build, I had both engine access panels open.  On this one, I may not have any panels open just to show the lines of the aircraft.  Of course, should the impossible occur and I create a fabulous looking engine that cannot be distinguished from the real thing, rest assured, the panels will be open!  As always, all comments are welcome.

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Great project, looking forward to.

Ralls aircraft is indeed an interesting subject for modelling.

 

And it looks like a good start !

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Good to see this project underway George. Good to have one of the bigger kits in progress! :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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1 hour ago, stevej60 said:

Ah great choice George,hoped we would see a 1/24 scale kit in the mix,great start!

 

1 hour ago, PlaStix said:

Good to see this project underway George. Good to have one of the bigger kits in progress! :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

 

I don't really remember too many bad things happening when I did the G-6 version, so hopefully I can't really be too inadequate with this one!  I am doing it mainly for the scheme so there probably will not be too many modifications and just mainly OOB. of course, that may change at a later date and some craziness ensures. Thank you, gentlemen, for stopping by and taking a peek. I should have an update later in the day. 

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11 minutes ago, Mottlemaster said:

1/24 engine and guns must be seen (please)    :)

 

Alistair

If a do that, some more detailing must be done and I'm already having so much fun with my Avenger build. (Note to self: Get the wiring done!). I'm going to see how well the engine builds up and go from there. No promises, but I probably will expose one panel side. 

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Engine update 2. First, I must apologize as all of the pictures were taken with my phone.  Somewhere I have a camera, The problem is that it is somewhere, not here where it should be.  So bear with the terrible quality of photos.  I don't know how people can take decent pictures with their phone.  I am not one of them!!   I cleaned up all the unsightly seams on the basic engine block.

 

clean seams 1

 

clean seams 2

 

It seems (pun intended) an ongoing theme with this kit is cleaning seams, mold lines, injection marks, etc.  I really don’t remember having to do this much with the G-6 build.  Maybe that’s because it was more than a couple of years ago and the bad memories have faded!

The nose cannon runs through the engine block and is attached at the rear of the engine.  The parts to assemble the nose cannon are below.

 

nose gun parts 1

 

And why do I model primarily in 1/32 and 1/24, so I do not have to deal with small parts, right?

 

nose gun parts 2

 

Yeah right.  I do find it interesting that as far as the instruction drawings go for the nose cannon parts and the remaining engine parts, the drawings are almost a 1:1 scale of the actual parts themselves.  This part is so tiny, that when I was attempting to pick it up, I thought I had dropped it.  I began looking for it on my work table, couldn’t find it.  Lo and behold, it was stuck underneath one of my fingernails.  And, this is why I wear a magnifier when modeling.  (That and being an old codger.)

I assemble the nose cannon separate from the apparatus that holds the nose cannon to the engine block. 

 

nose gun parts 3

 

nose gun parts 4

 

nose gun parts 5

 

Trumpeter suggests the color of the nose cannon is the same as the color of the nose cannon mounting parts.  I just don’t think that is correct.  It would seem the nose cannon mount would be the same color as the engine block, but the color of the cannon would be a gun metal.  So, these two sub-assemblies are separate as they will be painted different colors.

To the basic engine core block, several sub parts need to be added.

 

engine parts supplemental

 

All these parts have some sort of either mold seam or injector pin marks that need to be addressed prior to assembly.  Why would parts so small have mold seams?  Frustrating.  All the various parts are put together and attached to the core engine block as they will be all painted the same color.

 

core engine 1

 

core engine 2

 

core engine 3

 

core engine 4

 

But, before painting, guess what needs to happen first?  Yep, more sanding to clean up some seams after assembly.  This is not a theme I appreciate.  Oh well.  Next the nose cannon barrel is drilled open.

 

nose gun barrel opened

 

Now, this is a useless exercise as when the nose cannon is installed you will not be able to see the end of the cannon unless you shine a pin light down the opening in the spinner.  Don’t really think that is going to happen.  I do it though, to practice as the nose machine guns that rest above the engine block will be seen and those barrels also need drilling.  Just trying to get my eye-hand coordination working in sync.  The glue needs to set on the engine block, after that, a little more sanding, and then some base layers of paint applied.  As always, all comments are welcome.

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Nice work George.

 

These Trumpeter kits pack in a lot of detail. I have only ever built the old Airfix 1/24 kits, and they don't pack as much parts as these ones do. Are you going to display the engine on the finished aircraft? 

 

Cheers

 

Greg

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20 minutes ago, GREG DESTEC said:

Nice work George.

 

These Trumpeter kits pack in a lot of detail. I have only ever built the old Airfix 1/24 kits, and they don't pack as much parts as these ones do. Are you going to display the engine on the finished aircraft? 

 

Cheers

 

Greg

I haven't decided as if it is to be displayed, more detail is necessary. At first it was no, but I will probably open the port engine access panel.   And thanks for looking in and the more than kind comment. 

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Still on the engine update.  (Seems like this is where I am permanently at in all of the builds!)  Since I do not trust the Trumpeter call outs for colors in regard to the engine, thought I might see what the internet had in the way of help.  I found the following pictures.

 

a_Daimler-Benz_DB_605db 605 2db 605 3]db 605 5db605 1

 

Well, my first impression is the restored engines look very nicely painted, but I think that condition is not too feasible in a war time environment.  So, I guess a dingy faded black block color is needed with a bunch of silver accents.  Almost everything in the Trumpeter call outs is for a metal black.  However, for the tanks that fit on the side of the engine, Trumpeter suggests a blue color while all the pictures show a bare metal appearance.  I give the core engine block a sorta sloppy coat of NATO black that will be the base color that will subject to be weathered.

 

engine base paint 1

 

engine base paint 2

 

The nose cannon gets a base coat of gun metal/steel mixture

 

nose cannon paint 1

 

I then glue some more engine parts together for the supercharger and the two side tanks.

 

engine add ons

 

The tanks will be especially fun to clean up.  And to keep the tanks company, the supercharger isn’t that far behind in needed seam clean up.

 

tanks 1

 

 

 

Speaking of the supercharger, it leaves a lot to be desired.

 

supercharger 3

 

The engine photos above all show the supercharger has a very prominent turbine covered with a mesh shield.  Almost all of the photos show the mesh is a square pattern with only one photo showing the mesh as just longitudinal.  If I am going to pose the engine bay open, this part will have to be modified.  So, the plastic checker board section has to go

 

supercharger 1

 

supercharger 2

 

The sides need to be cleaned up a bit and finding a mesh to go over the opening shouldn’t be too hard.  Still trying to decide how to represent the turbine rather than build a turbine fan which doesn’t sound fun at all.  While I contemplate this turbine fan issue, I paint all the individual exhaust parts on the sprue a base coat of burnt metal/gun metal

 

exhausts 1

 

Now these will be fun to assemble.  Hopefully, like all the other parts in this kit, after assembly, they will have a seam so I don’t have to make one!  My luck, these will be the only parts that don’t have a seam once assembled.  That’s it for this update as life has gotten in the way of fun and chores need to be done.  As always, all comments are welcome.

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Hi George,

The engine is a kit in its own right. Very detailed indeed. I,m guessing the entire model is going to take some time to complete if this assembly is anything to go by.

 

Great stuff, keep it going 😀

 

Cheers

 

Greg

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13 hours ago, GREG DESTEC said:

Hi George,

The engine is a kit in its own right. Very detailed indeed. I,m guessing the entire model is going to take some time to complete if this assembly is anything to go by.

 

Great stuff, keep it going 😀

 

Cheers

 

Greg

That is perhaps the nicest way of suggesting to someone they are as slow as molasses as I've ever heard!  Once past the engine stage, I do not plan to go overboard in the cockpit area.  (Famous last words!). So, once I finish messing with the engine, the build should go a bit faster..

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1 hour ago, georgeusa said:

That is perhaps the nicest way of suggesting to someone they are as slow as molasses as I've ever heard!  Once past the engine stage, I do not plan to go overboard in the cockpit area.  (Famous last words!). So, once I finish messing with the engine, the build somgpo a bit faster.

Hi George,

 

I'm not one to talk about being slow! Most of my bench time is spent procrastinating whether I can actually do what I'm trying to do!!

 

These more detailed kits will take longer to build simply because there are more stages to complete. When I built my 1/24 Airfix Spitfire it took about 6 months, and it had a lot less bits than your 109!!

 

I am enjoying watching your progress. Keep on keeping on,

 

Cheers

 

Greg :clap2:

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A very interesting build to follow along, I am quite tempted to get one of these 'jumbo' kits but never get round to it. Will be interesting to follow this and see how it goes!

Cracking work so far!

Bob

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Great progress on the engine.

The top foto you are using is of a Bf-109 G10. Also the colours they use are wrong.

The interior of the engine bay should be RLM02 (Green-greyish color).

This also means that the two sways where the engine is hangin on should be this colour. The tank looks like to be a alumminium colour.  

I am not a expert, but I have seen many interpretations of colors through some time.

As the plane was flown quite early in the Russian campaign I would go for still a well maintained aircraft. Specially with a high scoring ace.

The would have had a personal crew to maintain their plane. So that it would be in pristine condition.

 

Cheers,

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8 hours ago, Arniec said:

Great progress on the engine.

The top foto you are using is of a Bf-109 G10. Also the colours they use are wrong.

The interior of the engine bay should be RLM02 (Green-greyish color).

This also means that the two sways where the engine is hangin on should be this colour. The tank looks like to be a alumminium colour.  

I am not a expert, but I have seen many interpretations of colors through some time.

As the plane was flown quite early in the Russian campaign I would go for still a well maintained aircraft. Specially with a high scoring ace.

The would have had a personal crew to maintain their plane. So that it would be in pristine condition.

 

Cheers,

Thanks for the information. The restored engines look nice, but I, too, doubt the accuracy of the colors. I was assuming the interior of the engine bay and engine covers would be RLM 02 as would be the wheel bays and cockpit interior.  Trumpeter would have a lot of the piping and wiring, plus the tanks colored light blue, but, to me, it seems the tanks are some sort of metal color, the ignition pipes light blue, the plug wires black and the plug ends blue like this picture.  Although some of the pictures above suggest the ignition pipes are also a metal finish. Decisions, decisions, decisions. 

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Engine update, don’t know how many are left to go.  First though, I left out a picture to the comment to Arniec above.  Here is the picture of an engine that I think I am going to try to follow for the color of the parts.

 

IMG_0595.jpg

 

When we last left, I cleverly thought I could improve the supercharger by hacking it up and then adding a mesh cover to the front.  I added some small mesh, but I don’t know if the result was worth the effort.

 

supercharger mesh

 

It is slightly better than the kit part, but not by a whole lot.  Oh well onward and upward.  I gave the supercharger and the tanks their base color.

 

supercharger base paint

 

tanks base color

 

While that paint dries, I went back to the base engine block and nose cannon to begin the weathering process.

 

nose cannon base weather

 

I did not do too much to the nose cannon as I am not even sure the breach will even show.  I know the entire barrel will be hidden inside of the engine block.  Since I am only going to open the port engine panel, the nose cannon may be entirely invisible.

I then began work on the engine block to give it a worn look, but not a worn out look.  This is what I came up with.

 

IMG_0593.jpg

 

No, wait, maybe too much weathering!  Need to dial it back a little.  Here is the top section of the engine.

 

engine weather base 1

 

As for what I think will show of the engine, part of the top will be visible, the upper port half and very little of the bottom port half of the engine.  The bottom of the engine and the starboard side will be lost forever.  So, here is the port side.

 

engine weather base 2

 

And the starboard side which won’t be seen, but I did some work on it just the same.

 

engine weather base 3

 

Some further work was done with a silver pencil and the silver parts were toned down with a wash for this look.

 

engine weather base 4

 

I then moved to the supercharger and the tanks to do a bit of weathering for them.  For the supercharger, this resulted.

 

supercharger base weather

 

 

For almost all the pictures of actual engines, it seems the supercharger is a darker black color than the rest of the engine.  I tried to keep this look so the weather was done to a minimum, just to show details.

For the tanks, they got a bit more grubbied up.

 

tanks base weather

 

 

The upper tank has received the grubby weathering. The lower tank is just in the base color.  I painted the tank steel with the straps in silver to get a tonal difference in the two metals, but it doesn’t look that different to me.  Perhaps I will go over the straps with some chrome.

The heads, the supercharger piping for the bottom of the engine still needs to be added.  Since very little will be visible, I’m probably not going to invest much time in paint and weather.  There is also two of these funny rubber parts to represent the ignition wires that need to be added to the block, one on each side.

 

Rubber ignition wires

 

I’m guessing fitting them in all the little holes they need to go in is not going to be as easy as the instruction diagram makes it seem.  Also, they need to be painted.  I am not real sure my enamel paints will take hold on this rubber stuff.  I am almost positive any acrylic paint will just fall off.  Anyone have suggestions?  As always, all comments are welcome.

 

 

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13 hours ago, georgeusa said:

Thanks for the information. The restored engines look nice, but I, too, doubt the accuracy of the colors. I was assuming the interior of the engine bay and engine covers would be RLM 02 as would be the wheel bays and cockpit interior.  Trumpeter would have a lot of the piping and wiring, plus the tanks colored light blue, but, to me, it seems the tanks are some sort of metal color, the ignition pipes light blue, the plug wires black and the plug ends blue like this picture.  Although some of the pictures above suggest the ignition pipes are also a metal finish. Decisions, decisions, decisions. 

That is a nice looking engine. although I don't know about the light blue. With manny builds I have seen them be painted silver.

O, by the way the cockpit should be in RLM66 color. This is a dark(ish) grey color.

 

I think that a enemel based paint will hold. You can always try to dry brush it on. Then it is  a nice thin coat. If it stays on ?!?! I don't know.

 

Cheers,

Edited by Arniec
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