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Bonkin

British Army Diamond T Tank Transporter with Centurion Project

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Very impressive looking model :like:

 

Regards

Richard 

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On 18/03/2018 at 17:31, Hamden said:

 

Looking good in paint!

 

"The front wheels have metal parts for some reason"

Metal parts are because it's a motorised model

 

     Roger

Thanks Roger.

On 21/03/2018 at 20:20, Ripaman said:

Very impressive looking model :like:

 

Regards

Richard 

Cheers Richard.

 

So the Easter holidays are now upon us and the family (except me) are starting a 2 week break. Naturally this has got the wife on a mega spring cleaning frenzy - and of course I'm not allowed to sit on my backside chilling out or hunched over my workbench sanding bits of plastic. My ploy was therefore to get up early, get the ladders out and clean all the windows whilst she busied herself indoors. Luckily this worked and kept her happy enough that she didn't object (too much) when I complained of a stiff neck and a need to sit down :wink:. I therefore managed to cramp some time in at the bench this afternoon :)... getting on with the Centurion.

 

Gotta say I'm loving this old Tamiya kit. It is going together lovely. I prepared all the track support wheels and main wheels (shown here in dry fit), and then fitted the side skirt supports:

20180324_153612.jpg

 

And to ensure I'd got them positioned correctly I dry fitted the skirts whilst the glue for the support arms dried out.

20180324_153214.jpg

 

Then it was on with the gun barrel - which during dry fit looked like it would be bent. I did consider whether to use a metal aftermarket part - but by gluing it in sections and patiently holding it in position I was able to get it reasonably straight.

20180324_154125.jpg

 

Looks OK :yes:

20180324_154222.jpg

 

From studying my Dads pictures it appears then when on the trailer, the turret is turned to this position and there is some sort of clamp which goes over the barrel to hold it in place. I did wonder whether the fixed nature of the barrel-to-turret assembly would put the gun too high - but I think, from dry fit testing that it will be OK. I will have to sort out the clamp though. There doesn't look to be anything in the kit regarding this part.

20180324_154348.jpg

 

20180324_162906.jpg

 

The turret itself needed a lot of clean up at the rear to remove the join line. I will have to go around with some filler - particularly between the side storage boxes and the turret itself. The holes for the fire extinguishers are also oversized and may need a bit of treatment.

20180325_170112.jpg

 

Left side view. Note - I fitted the mounts for the smoke cartridges but I can't see these on the Centurions in my Dad's pictures. I'll have to check on this as they may have to come out.

20180325_170132.jpg

 

Quick dry fit on the chassis.

20180325_170505.jpg

 

... and with a few wheels on :yes:

20180325_170342.jpg

 

There are a few parts now to go onto the main body of the tank but then it will be on with priming.

20180325_170348.jpg

 

Currently I've no idea what colour scheme I'm going to do it in. I need to do a bit of research on Centurion colours in Germany during the early 1950's. Happy for any suggestions though.

 

Thanks for following.

 

 

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Most likely colour from memory would have been Bronze Green for a Centurion of that period.

I could be wrong though!

 

  Roger

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On 25/03/2018 at 18:15, Hamden said:

 

Most likely colour from memory would have been Bronze Green for a Centurion of that period.

I could be wrong though!

 

  Roger

I think you are right Roger - but I really don't want the tractor, trailer and tank to all be the same colour. Also, looking back at the reference pictures it looks like they did have a camouflage pattern on them at the time:

BARTLET06_1.JPG

BARTLET35_1.JPG

 

When I asked my Dad he seemed to recall that some of them were also dark grey. 

 

So I've made some more slow progress this past couple of weekends. First off, I completed work on the tank chassis and then primed both it and the turret.

20180326_214501.jpg

 

20180326_214534.jpg

 

I also did the wheels and tried a dry fit. Such a shame that most of this detail won't be visible once the side skirts are fitted. Once I'd primed the gun barrel I found that the join was still visible so that took a bit of extra sanding and polishing to remove.

20180404_203426.jpg

 

It was at this stage that I realised a mistake. The Tamiya instructions tell you to mount the fire extinguishers on the rear of the turret. They also provide rather large inconvenient holes for them to fit into. When studying the pictures above I noted that they were actually mounted towards the front and just behind the smoke cartridge ejectors on the port side, and underneath the side storage bins on the starboard side. Anyhoos, I've removed them and will refit them in the right places... and will have to sort out the holes left over.

20180407_164723.jpg

 

Being one to keep an eye on the latest trends :lol: I noticed that MRP paints now do a British Deep Bronze Green colour. These paints have received very positive reviews so I figured it would be worth trying and comparing against the Humbrol mix I've been using to date.

20180406_150358.jpg

 

So here are the trailer wheel hubs in the MRP DBG colour. Gotta say, very, very comparable. If anything I'd say that the MRP paint does not have the hint of brown/bronze that the Humbrol mix has. It is one to check with the old man though. The benefit to using MRP over Humbrol (apart from the ease of spraying) is the rapid drying time.

20180404_173952.jpg

 

I also used the MRP DBG on the front bogie of the trailer. Mainly where I fitted the air line. It is definitely a beautifully smooth paint.

20180406_160245.jpg

 

Back on the Centurion I welded the track ends together and did a trial fit on the trailer. I'm very pleased with it so far. The tracks overhang the edges of the trailer which is exactly how my Dad remembers them fitting.

20180406_150210.jpg

 

And one final thing is this picture I found of a rather sad and neglected Dyson trailer in a scrap yard. Note how the pin does not go all the way from one side to the other as I thought it did. One of my next jobs is fitting the ramps so this is a good reference.

1522871885280-1607227107.jpg

 

Thanks for following.

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On ‎25‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 18:08, Bonkin said:

Currently I've no idea what colour scheme I'm going to do it in. I need to do a bit of research on Centurion colours in Germany during the early 1950's. Happy for any suggestions though.

 

I'm probably a bit late with this, but I asked a similar question on another site a few years ago when I built the Tamiya Centurion as a Korean based Mk.lll. The answer that I got (it could have been from Mike Starmer), was that at the time of the Korean conflict, they were still finished in SCC15. That would probably be the same for BFG Germany vehicles as well. Bronze green started coming in around then, but I think that you could get away with SCC15 as well.

 

John.

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Very nicley detailed models , that trailer does  looks good though, 

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On 08/04/2018 at 09:25, Bullbasket said:

I'm probably a bit late with this, but I asked a similar question on another site a few years ago when I built the Tamiya Centurion as a Korean based Mk.lll. The answer that I got (it could have been from Mike Starmer), was that at the time of the Korean conflict, they were still finished in SCC15. That would probably be the same for BFG Germany vehicles as well. Bronze green started coming in around then, but I think that you could get away with SCC15 as well.

 

John.

No not too late - and thanks for the comment. I actually asked my Dad about the colours and he doesn't actually recall any of the Centurions being bronze green. In fact, he remembers them in a Nato green and also dark grey. Given this, I suspect you are spot on with your SCC15 suggestion. The question now of course is which is the best rendition of SCC15? :worry:

On 10/04/2018 at 23:40, Hewy said:

Very nicley detailed models , that trailer does  looks good though, 

Thanks very much Hewy. It's my first time building with resin but it is a good kit.

On 11/04/2018 at 13:24, TapChan said:

Last model photo looks more like 3D render :)

Cheers :yes:.

 

Not much progress this weekend... but still plugging away when I can. My attention has been on the loading ramps and boy are they tricky blighters - but probably all through my own doing of choosing a thinner spindle rod (thinking it would be easier). If I'd chosen the kit part I would incidentally, have had to widen the holes in not only the resin parts but also the photo-etch.

 

So here we are with spindle rod cut for one side (with one end in place), the cut and filed photo-etch parts and the end cap:

20180414_154132.jpg

 

Some cussing later - ta da :penguin:! One side fitted. But hang on, there is a problem...

20180414_160342.jpg

 

... the photo-etch just fits over the studs on each ramp (see arrow). There is nothing to hold it in place and the ramps swing around like the dogs doodahs... and worse still, they fall off!!!

20180414_160422.jpg

 

So I'm thinking that if I'd used thicker rod then maybe there would have been some friction and therefore stiffness in the ramps. As it is, I've tried flattening the studs with a hot knife - but only with limited success.

 

Here it all is with the other side done and the middle plate added. The idea has always been to have the model posed with the Centurion on the trailer and all chained up so really, I could just glue the ramps in the stowed position. I kinda like having the option to put them down though.

20180414_193646.jpg

 

I've now also started on the chain work. With all the fiddly pieces in these I think there will be even more cussing than the ramps caused :lol:.

20180415_170309.jpg

 

Thanks for following.

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14 hours ago, Bonkin said:

No not too late - and thanks for the comment. I actually asked my Dad about the colours and he doesn't actually recall any of the Centurions being bronze green. In fact, he remembers them in a Nato green and also dark grey. Given this, I suspect you are spot on with your SCC15 suggestion. The question now of course is which is the best rendition of SCC15? :worry:

If you are using Tamiya paints, this is Mike Starmer's mix; 5 x XF61, 2 x XF62, 2 x XF3 plus 1 x Medium Grey for scale effect.

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Or you could buy this SCC15 from Sovereign Hobbies, did use some on my Matador (very nice paint had no issue with spraying) then someone pointed out it should have been SCC1 

 

This is with the Sovereign hobbies SCC15

l1PRZY.jpg

 

:doh: also did mix up some Tamiya paint as per Mike Starmer and I could not tell the difference between the two 

 

Regards

Richard 

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On 16/04/2018 at 08:36, Bullbasket said:

If you are using Tamiya paints, this is Mike Starmer's mix; 5 x XF61, 2 x XF62, 2 x XF3 plus 1 x Medium Grey for scale effect.

Excellent thanks. Definitely worth a try. Which medium grey though? Any?

On 16/04/2018 at 23:43, Ripaman said:

Or you could buy this SCC15 from Sovereign Hobbies, did use some on my Matador (very nice paint had no issue with spraying) then someone pointed out it should have been SCC1 

 

:doh: also did mix up some Tamiya paint as per Mike Starmer and I could not tell the difference between the two 

 

Looks good. I'll probably try the "Mike Starmer" mix first though and see what it looks like.

 

So despite the "relax, chill and drink wine" weather we've had in the UK over this weekend, I have managed to steel myself away to the man cave. Also skilfully avoiding a few household chores much to the wife's annoyance :smirk:. First off, I filled the holes in the back of the Centurion turret where the instructions say the fire extinguishers go - contrary to the photographs I have:

20180422_144750.jpg

 

I then got back to work on the Dyson trailer... and spend considerable time studying the instructions looking for where parts 50 and 51 go. They are described as side lights (white and amber) but other than the parts list, annoyingly they don't seem to be mentioned anywhere. Studying the reference pictures I have, I can't see them anywhere either so my intention is to leave them off.

20180422_144125.jpg

 

You may have noticed from earlier pictures that my bracket was broken on the A bar. I modelled a new one from some thick plasticard which I shaped with a file, fixed into place and used some thick super-glue as a filler. It took a while but I'm quite happy with the result. You'll also note that I added remaining photo-etch (weight disk and power couplings):

20180422_105614.jpg

 

Better view of the A-Bar with attachment added:

20180422_144200.jpg

 

I then primed up the remaining parts (including the Centurion turret and side skirts) ready for application of bronze green:

20180422_154619.jpg

 

And then got to applying the MRP Deep Bronze Green paint:

20180422_183253.jpg

 

20180422_183317.jpg

 

The spare wheel assembly hinges (although later it will be fixed with a rope).

20180422_183329.jpg

 

And the top deck... note that the instructions say that this should be ship hull red but I had several conversations with my Dad about this and he says that was never the case. The only part he remembers as red was the base on the tractor ballast box. Him and a mate painted it once - and had some doubts about how safe it was because this was when the risks of leaded paint were just becoming known. He does remember painting the deck of the trailers green though.

20180422_183218.jpg

 

20180422_183208.jpg

 

Obviously thinks are looking rather clean at the moment but once I've applied the decals and wheels I will be weathering things up a little, e.g. grime and grease underneath and scrapes and chips on top.

 

Thanks for following.

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Good progress.

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Managed to get some time at the bench in this weekend - and started out by putting the wheels on the trailer. I used AK Interactive's products to put some grime on the wheels as well. My intention, once I've done the decaling is to add some grease marks etc. to the axles as well.

20180428_161114.jpg

 

Finally on it's own wheels:

20180428_144019.jpg

 

20180428_161227.jpg

 

20180428_161252.jpg

 

The ramps are still a bit troublesome, but I'm pleased they fold down flat.

20180428_161310.jpg

 

I think I overdid the wheel grime in places so I'll have to go back and do some gentle touching up.

20180428_161331.jpg

 

20180428_161337.jpg

 

20180428_161355.jpg

 

20180428_161403.jpg

 

With the angle of the deck it got me to thinking what it must have been like to drive up the deck. Quite an angle!

20180428_183506.jpg

 

Putting the trailer to one side I decided to spray up the Centurion using the SCC15 mix given in the post above. You can see that I first applied some pre-shading to the body and turret.

20180429_141021.jpg

 

Almost a smiley face :laugh:!

20180429_142056.jpg

 

Hmmm. Really? I definitely followed the right quantities. Oh well... I'll give it a go anyway.

20180429_142256.jpg

 

Is it the right colour? I have no references so I don't know.

20180429_151102.jpg

 

20180429_151111.jpg

 

20180429_151143.jpg

 

The ring around the gun is actually the bracket for fixing it to the body (when it is on the trailer).

20180429_151159.jpg

 

For the wheel rubbers I made this big lollipop!

20180429_152942.jpg

 

Which worked out quite well.

20180429_155425.jpg

 

Thanks for looking.

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I think the colour looks fine. About the only thing that I would add would be an light overspray of the same mix with a bit more of the yellow in it. Bear in mind that if you are going to add any washes, it'll alter the shade anyway.

 

John.

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Colour looks fine to me maybe a coat of semi matt just impart a slight sheen.

I seem to remember the Cents and other AFV of the period having a slight sheen on them

 

      Roger

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Posted (edited)
On 30/04/2018 at 07:54, Bullbasket said:

I think the colour looks fine. About the only thing that I would add would be an light overspray of the same mix with a bit more of the yellow in it. Bear in mind that if you are going to add any washes, it'll alter the shade anyway.

 

John.

Thanks for the comment and tip John :yes: .

On 30/04/2018 at 12:53, Hamden said:

 

Colour looks fine to me maybe a coat of semi matt just impart a slight sheen.

I seem to remember the Cents and other AFV of the period having a slight sheen on them

 

      Roger

Yes that is a good idea :yes: . I am going to weather it up though - although without chipping. To my mind, chipping may be popular on vehicles in a war zone, but in peace time I don't think I'd be wrong to assume that vehicles were always kept painted. Certainly my Dad recalls always having to paint and clean up vehicles - with whatever they could get their hands on. Usually a diesel soaked rag worked a treat on the bronze green.

 

This does bring me to another point though... the colour. My Dad is following this thread with much interest and we've had a lot of conversations regarding colours and markings. He again made the point that the Centurions were more of a faded Nato Green - and often more greyish than greenish. He's sent me some scans from one of his "Warpaint" volumes (by Dick Taylor) and this does confirm what he's been saying all along. Not that I ever doubted him of course :laugh: . Anyway, I also found this post within these forums: 

On 15/03/2015 at 16:42, Dads203 said:

Various factors are involved here, on the tin it says " Paint Green NATO IRR Brushing or Spraying " and it's an Olive green.

We used to thin it with what ever we could get our hands on, kero or petrol was used and if we had it the OEM thinners., mind you this stuff was rare and I've only ever seen the thinners once maybe twice in a 12 year stint. Depending on what you thinned it with depended on the shade it dried too, this is even before you take in weathering, wagons that lived out side the green faded to an almost grey colour and so did the black. Personally I wouldn't get too hung up over the hue of green as in service these wagons varied a lot.

I've used Tamiya NATO green but it needs to be cut with buff or deck tan to lighten it out a fraction, on my Spartan build I've used tamiya XF-81 Dark Green2(RAF) and a few drops of XF-58 Olive Green and to fade out some XF-55 Deck Tan. To my eyes it's a good match for a wagon that has not been repainted for a few years.

Another point is that kit that has come from a base workshops after a major overhaul and repaint had a slightly different hue of green that didn't quite match the painting we did at unit level, this is due to it being done in a professional paint shop and being applied with better quality spray guns and being dried in a constant temp. We could never match this at unit level.

I hope this helps and it's my own experience that I hint about, just don't get too hung up over it.

Dan

Which again ties in with things my Dad has said.

 

So, back to spray painting it was... using Vallejo paints I mixed up my own "Nato Green" with a lot of thinner. I used 4 parts of 71.092, 3 parts of 71.007 and 2 parts of 71.049 and applied these to the side skirts and then built up a few layers on the main body and chassis:

20180505_170802.jpg

 

Which when assembled looked a bit better (but not quite):

20180505_171114.jpg

 

So I then added a few more layers and then added a lot more of the grey (and some more thinners), to fade certain areas:

20180506_165213.jpg

 

20180506_165207.jpg

 

20180506_165339.jpg

 

Which now, to me at least, looks closer to what my Dad was after. Next up I started on the tracks, first off applying a base coat of Tamiya XF79, followed by a brown mix of 5 parts of XF67, 4 parts of XF69 and 1 part of XF7, and finished off with various different pigments and fixers.

20180506_174402.jpg

 

The tracks will have more work done on them when I do the main weathering.

 

Next up was a few coats of Pledge Clear Floor Varnish to prepare for the decal stage... so here it is, looking slightly shiny and with wheels and tracks fitted:

20180507_172454.jpg

 

20180507_172410.jpg

 

And with the side skirts fitted...

20180507_172846.jpg

 

20180507_172903.jpg

 

20180507_172923.jpg

 

Next up will be the decals. These are showing their age though:

20180507_173023.jpg

 

I also want to make sure that the decals match Centurions he was transporting... so a little extra research is needed before I apply anything.

 

Now, with the unseasonably warm weather we've been having it's off for a glass of wine (or two) :laugh:. Thanks for following along.

 

Edited by Bonkin

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Looks good!

 

  Roger

 

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On 07/05/2018 at 19:34, Hamden said:

 

Looks good!

 

  Roger

 

Thanks Roger.

 

Once again we've had rather fine weather in the UK over this last weekend, so more time has been spent outside enjoying the sunshine rather than hunched over a workbench. Still, any progress is better than none right? (Especially when coupled with a few chilled glasses of Pinot eh? :laugh: )

 

So whilst research continues into the Centurion markings (I've had a number of conversations on this topic with my Dad), work has returned to the tractor. First up where the fiddly little handles that go on the bonnet... which to be honest I found to be pesky little blighters that enjoyed pinging out of my tweezers in a flea like manner to hide in the carpet. After this happened about three times I decided to give my knees (and eyes) a rest, opting to make them from wire instead. This turned out to be an altogether preferable option.

 

20180513_151740.jpg

 

Feeding the cable through from the inside, I super-glued it in place and then trimmed and filed off the excess. The wire has the same thickness as the original parts and doesn't need trimming or sanding either!

 

Although I wanted to show at least one door in an open position my Dad wants them both closed, so I fitted these in place along with the grab handles and then primed them up:

20180513_173515.jpg

 

Merit provided a decal for the instrument panel so, with plenty of Micro Set and Sol, I applied this in place. This turned out to be altogether harder than I imagined it would be. Firstly, the decal was extremely thin and broke up when I tried to apply it. Secondly, the instrument panel itself has a lot of raised edges and pointy bits over which the decal is supposed to go. I pressed on with it anyway, thinking that if it didn't work I would simply remove it and hand paint it instead. All said and done, it is not perfect but it is not bad either. I used a little black wash on it to tone it down a little, and I know from dry fits, that it can barely be seen anyway. If I was doing it again though I think I would cut out each instrument and place them separately.

20180513_181907.jpg

 

I painted the seats and knobs...

20180513_182027.jpg

 

... and with the backs fitted. I was going to put some wear and grime on the floor but found that with the doors permanently closed, it would never been seen anyway.

20180513_193005.jpg

 

Steering wheel fitted... (how big is that??!)

20180513_193019.jpg

 

To my surprise, I found that when trying to fit the cab, the steering wheel caught on the interior door handle... which meant I had to push the door out before fitting the cab. So this simple looking step actually took a far amount of effort (and cussing) in order to get everything to fit properly. Of course, had I followed the instructions none of this would have been a problem! Also (for the benefit of my Dad), I've not painted the canvas cover to the hatch yet! It will be a lighter colour.

20180513_193517.jpg

 

Finally I silvered up the winch cable... but as you can see, it just isn't in scale. It is also disappointingly "fluffy". In short, it won't do. I'll have to have a look for some nylon based thread - or maybe even fishing line. Any suggestions?

20180514_191400.jpg

 

Hopefully next weekend I will be starting to bring the elements of the tractor together and giving it a final spray paint.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

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Instruments looks impressive. 

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On 16/05/2018 at 20:36, Kris B said:

Instruments looks impressive. 

Thanks Chris.

 

Once again we've had beautiful weekend weather in the UK. We've also had a Royal Wedding - which provides more than enough excuses for popping a few corks and having a celebration. Well it would be rude not to :wink: ! As you can image therefore, coupled with obligatory chores, I've not spent much time hunched over the work bench. When I did get some time in the man cave, my main focus was on the winch assembly...

 

As I stated in the last post, I wasn't happy with the string and was thinking of getting something else more cable like. I settled on fishing line and went into town to get some. Now bare in mind that I don't fish and am actually a little bit fish phobic and you can understand that I didn't have the faintest idea what I was after. What I found was that there are a number of different thickness and, remarkably, colours. In any case, without a reference to hand, I plumped for a .45 which I figured "looked about right".

 

Back at home, I cut a long length and proceeded with some enthusiasm to wind it on - a task which became ever more painful as it was obvious that the line didn't want to be wrapped neatly around the drum and instead wanted to loop and curl in every other direction to the one I wanted. Super glue helped but the more I wind the more wind-up I found myself getting. My enthusiasm for the task quickly ran out. Something wasn't right :sad:.

 

20180520_134815.jpg

 

The more I looked at my efforts the more wrong it all seemed... so I went back to the internet to see what photo references I could find of the cable thickness and texture. Over on the HMV (Historic Military Vehicle) forums I found the following three pictures by some chap called Pennack:

winch1.jpg

 

winch2.jpg

 

winch3.jpg

 

Looking at these I realised the fishing line was a bad idea, so I gave it up and looked again at the string supplied with the model (after I'd retrieved it from the bin). It was then that I had an idea of smoothing out the fluff with a bit of PVA glue - so I dipped one end in a pot of the stuff and then ran my fingers over it to rub it in and wipe off the excess. Once it had dried I found I was actually quite pleased with the result. The picture below shows the "treated" end (top) vs the untreated end (bottom):

20180520_135816.jpg

 

Treating the string this way also gave the added benefit of making the string a little more rigid and cable like. So I treated the rest of it and then wind it on the winch drum.

20180520_200109.jpg

 

It is still a little bit fluffy, but I will treat this with more PVA - and altogether I am much happier with the result. I'm hoping that by the time I've repainted it and added a little greasy grime it will have a convincing look.

 

Other jobs I completed were the fitting of the scratch built cable pendulum:

20180520_200319.jpg

 

And finally I fitted the front radiator and winch assembly to the chassis.

20180520_204959.jpg

 

One final note. My Dad informs me that the correct term for what I have been referring to as "side skirts" (on the Centurion), are actually "Bazooka plates". I prefer skirts myself :laugh:.

 

Thanks for looking.

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Looks fantastic, good idea with the string/cable.

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Brilliant work. Will be using this build as reference when I attack my Scammel transporter. Done similarities in design

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On 21/05/2018 at 20:22, Soeren said:

Nice, looks like a proper cable. 

Cheers Soeren :yes:.

On 27/05/2018 at 11:39, phildagreek said:

Looks fantastic, good idea with the string/cable.

Ta Phil :yes:.

On 27/05/2018 at 12:11, robw_uk said:

Brilliant work. Will be using this build as reference when I attack my Scammel transporter. Done similarities in design

Excellent. What kit are you doing and do you have any thoughts on how to display it?

 

So once again we've had a Bank Holiday here in the UK - and once again, somewhat unusually (for a Bank Holiday at least), we've had rather fine weather. What does this mean? Well for one thing it has meant time with the family... and "pottering" about in the garden, and for another, less time in the cave. In short - not much progress I'm afraid... and perhaps not enough to warrant another post. I am posting though because I'm keen to get the details right and my Dad is following along with interest - so I know he'll pass comment if I've not got quite the right shade of red in the ballast box:

20180527_131957.jpg

 

Once sprayed up I masked it off and then sprayed the rest of the box with the MRP British Bronze Green:

20180527_140914.jpg

 

20180527_141740.jpg

 

Chances are this won't be seen because it will end up being covered in ballast weights and tools etc... but I'm pleased with the result.

20180527_142649.jpg

 

Finally, whilst doing a dry fit of the ballast box I found some interference with the cable. It was only when studying Steve Farrier's pictures (on page 3) that I noticed the drum wheel at the base of the winch - a tiny detail I'd not noticed previously. As such, I've started crafting this assembly, ready to fit into place:

20180528_181942.jpg

 

Thanks for following.

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Bonkin, I have the Thunder Model Scammel Transporter. It's going to be done desert scneme loaded with a Matilda (Tamiya kit) in Caunter scheme 

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