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What Gloss to use in Spitfire build project?


Starkiller

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Hello Members

Another noob question. I must say I did do a search, but the results were not helpful, so here is the direct approach. So I have the Spitfire kit, I have the Mr Color paints, the airbrush and mini compressor. What eludes me is the gloss varnish. I noticed the use of Mr Color GX100, but it's not found in the UK (well at ridiculous cost!). I noticed the arguments are many for and against the use of Pledge floor varnish. So what do I use?

 

 

 

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the gloss is just to provide a smooth surface(at a microscopic level) to avoid trapping air which can cause decal silvering.  

Kleer/Future was widely used as it was cheap and is a self levelling product.

The consensus is that Lakeland Quickshine does a similar job now Kleer has gone, though Pledge do a similar product that looks milky.(there are threads on this)

 

Some builders varnish, and then use Kleer (or whatever) to 'bed down' their decals on, which does away with using decal softening/setting solutions.

 

Any good quality gloss varnish that does not react with your basecoat should be fine   

 

My only caution here,  you may want to do a simple cheap kit to test out all your new techniques before doing it on a more expensive kit, or the one you want to get everything right on, as there is no 'right way'. just what works best for you.

The site does have a specific section for these kind of questions as well.

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/68-tools-amp-tips/

 

eg varnish

 

there is a recommendation for 'aquagloss' there

 

here's one on Kleer and replacements

HTH

T

 

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I use the "new" pledge stuff (a couple of quid from tescos or sainsburys (only places i've found it).  As troy says it does appear milky when you apply it but dries nice and smooth. I just apply with a wide flat brush.

 

Also as troy said, maybe buy the cheapest kit you can find and have a play with your paints/airbrush/gloss.

 

and like i said before facemask at the least when airbrushing!! :)

 

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Hi mate, 

 

If you are spraying Mr color you should get a tough satin sheen that you can decal onto straight away. 

Then seal them in with some alclad aquagloss before some weathering. Or if you are going to leave it clean then you can go straight to the flat coat it after the decals. 

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Tamiya x-22 is an acrylic clear coat that is generally available. 

Personally I find it gives a tough finish that's easy to work with. 

 

I have used 'floor polish' in the past and found the results to be variable. I would caution you against using Humbrol 'Klear' it's the work of the devil.

 

Generally you paint the model getting the smoothest paint finish you can achieve. Then give the model a gloss clear coat to make decaling easier. Then another coat of gloss clear to seal in the decals. 

 

from there you can weather and alter the surface finish as you please.

 

HTH

 

Plasto

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14 hours ago, Plasto said:

Tamiya x-22 is an acrylic clear coat that is generally available. 

Personally I find it gives a tough finish that's easy to work with. 

 

I have used 'floor polish' in the past and found the results to be variable. I would caution you against using Humbrol 'Klear' it's the work of the devil.

 

Generally you paint the model getting the smoothest paint finish you can achieve. Then give the model a gloss clear coat to make decaling easier. Then another coat of gloss clear to seal in the decals. 

 

from there you can weather and alter the surface finish as you please.

 

HTH

 

Plasto

Really Plasto? Humbrol Klear the work of the devil !!! I think I will give the Tamiya X-22 ago since it's easier for me to acquire. Thanks.

 

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One thing to bear in mind with X22 & indeed any of the Tamiya gloss colours is that they take far longer to dry fully than you would expect .  They seem to be dry pretty quickly , but can take days to fully harden .  I've picked models up after a couple of days & still left fingerprints in the paint .

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I concur with that.. I generally thin with lacquer thinners which helps with initial drying but any paint or clear coat will benefit from being allowed to cure fully. 

 

SK my experience with Humbrol 'Klear' is less that stellar either brushed or sprayed. 

 

X22 can be thinned with Tamiyas own ISO based thinners or tamiya lacquer thinner or gunze self levelling thinners. 

 

Have fun...

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On 4/19/2017 at 7:26 PM, Starkiller said:

Thanks chaps for the help. I am thinking of going with alclad aquagloss before doing the decals then weathering next. Am I correct doing so?

 

Seal in the decals before weathering with another coat or two of gloss varnish, this makes the surface of the paint more similar to the surface of the decals and so be more likely to weather the same way. It also protects the decals if things go wrong with the weathering and you need to remove it.

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