Ludicrus Sextus Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 When you say 1/32nd and Tomcat together most people think "Tamiya" but this project involves the new kid on the block - Trumpeter. You may have heard or read positive or negative things about this kit and to be fair it has a few peculiarities which are somewhat of a Trumpeter trademark. So many areas are damn good and then you discover areas where the usual designer must have gone for break and some crazy guy adds a few parts which do not match the rest of the kit. So let's get started by taking a peek at this rather large pudycat. This is no ordinary box, it is also a piece of luggage and comes complete with it's own carry handle and strong securing points to stop the box from opening unless you really want it to. When you do reveal the inside it is packaged very well with separate boxes and containers to protect the contents. The upper and lower fuselage halves come together in their own plastic tray with a clear cover, this should mean that they stay stress free and do not become out of shape. This kit comes with three decal options, all light-gull grey over white schemes. VF-1 Wolfpack, VF-84 Jolly Rogers and VF-111 Sundowners. But enough of this hear you cry! This is supposed to be a WIP and not a review so let's start at the beginning which is the best place to start so I'm told. For those of you thinking that Trumpeter supply a nicely moulded set of throttle handles to go on the phallic gesture sticking up - you'd be wrong as that's it! Deep breaths now and put it down to that crazy guy having his fun whilst the real designer went to the loo. You'll see more of this later. The kit comes supplied with another cockpit tub and instrument panels for an F-14B, so I put aside the original "A" cockpit tub and went to town on the "B" version. Starting by sanding down all the side console detail as I intended to try something using the Eduard cockpit etch in a new and unusual way. I dislike working with photo etch parts so scanned the fret on the computer where I could correct and change certain bits and then print out what I needed on to matt photo paper. More on how this worked out later on. The F-14A should have two circuit breaker panels inside the pilot's foot well so some surgery was required. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 (edited) The kit seats are okay but suffer from over enthusiastic details so I bought some resin offerings from Aires, not the expensive ones which have separate etch details and harnesses but the pair which come with the harness moulded on. The two instrument panels are pretty good but I do love to make a simple job as difficult as possible. The pilot's panel didn't look right and it turned out that the two CRT displays were flat and not slightly angled upwards. Then out of nowhere some fit issues cropped up. No problem though, it just required a bit of thought and some mods to end up with something which looked correct. Then another problem was the instrument panel's upper half, either side of the CRT displays. 1. = correct shape shrouds around new upper halves of the instrument panel. 2. = filled in edges so that no gap will be visible through the windscreen. 3. = A revised contour to the top combing. 4. = Angled backing for the new CRT displays and new top panel. I keep on telling myself that I'm enjoying it. Edited March 31, 2017 by Ludicrus Sextus 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crobinsonh Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Lovely work. Very impressive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Very interesting. Despite the larger scale, there doesn't seem to be any more detail than the 1:48 Tamiya version. Well, not from the box, I suspect there will be a whole lot more by the time you call time. Good start! P.S. You can perhaps hide gaps at the side of the coaming by installing the demister pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Outstanding work so far! Quick question to help out a Tomcat novice - I have the B version of this kit and was looking for some Eduard pre-painted sets for the cockpit. I could only find a set for the A version and the D version, which I know are quite different. Do you know if the B was the same cockpit as the A? I thought the B version was a simple engine upgrade whereas the D has the new engines and a new cockpit. In short, can I use an A cockpit set on a B model? Cheers, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hi tomprobert, the same seats but otherwise a bit different in a few key areas. The main difference in the front office is a new, more traditional double combiner glass HUD and smaller panel below it where the ACM panel used to be. The other noticeable difference is a big ALR67 radar warning receiver and slight shift up of the UHF and VHF indicator panel. But I'm no expert on this. The pilot's right hand console has a couple of differences, two red buttons of the spoiler overide button have gone, in fact the whole overide panel has gone and the blank panel which used to be next to it on the "A" version now has a small analogue dial for liquid oxygen levels. There are other changes but as I say, I'm hardly an expert. When you get to the RIO's office you will see some big differences. The DACO book is a great reference source on the F-14A/B/D. I believe that JENS is also pretty knowledgeable. I'm a bit of a dinosaur and the "B" and "D" versions are alien to me, trying to keep up with the block differences on the F-14A tires me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Here are some photos that I took of some of the kit parts which should convey both good and bad bits: Just like the Tamiya 1/32 cat you have the option to show the air brake (top and bottom) open or closed. The LAU-7 rails are okay but devoid of any real detail and come in two halves, you also get BOL rails which do carry some detail. The in-flight refuelling probe can be modelled closed or open but I'm not too sure about the excessively thick lip inside the opening. The two crew access steps also suffer from an over excessive lip. The kit supplies a basic M61A1 cannon, ammunition drum and two open bays - one has two superbly detailed bits of electrical kit in whilst the other has this over-zealous thick shelves which are not in the right place. Do you understand me now about the crazy man dabbling in the kit design when the real designer left his desk to do something. What the Tamiya F-14A should of had all those years ago were these! leading edge slats and full length flaps; anyone thinking about a launch or landing scene perhaps? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crushkill Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Your attention to detail is almost disheartening! I can't wait to see how this turns out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 The cockpit console panels printed off well and were sprayed with mat varnish, after they were cut out a black fine-line pen was run along the external edges. You can see in the photo above how the console panels look before (rear cockpit office) and the part detailed front office area. The large knobs and switches were cut from plastic strip/rod and then placed on a lolly stick with some double sided tape on it. They were then painted so that they could be attached to the printed consoles without the need for risky painting which could ruin the black consoles. Likewise each toggle switch (the F-14A has loads of these) was made from cut pieces of white wire and pushed in to small holes which were drilled out where the switch should go. Prior to putting each switch in place a cocktail stick and thick cyanocrylate glue was dabbed in the hole with the dexterity of a Japanese flower arranger. Once in place and dry a blob of paint was used to seal the wire ends and provide the illusion that the toggle switch was thicker at the top. The RIO's instrument panel combing is okay albeit a little too symmetrical and square. On the real aircraft this combing takes a bit of a hammering and eventually bends and shows signs of wear and tear. I used a scalpel first and removed the angular edges before sanding to get a more accurate profile. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Moving away from the cockpit to correct another area which needs attention: The hard part comes when you have to paint the inside of the channel but there is a nifty trick to not only accomplish this but it can produce a good result. By drawing the dark grey part on the computer you can obtain a perfect edge and also throw in some details. However, I realised that this launch rail is so common and will be on the next three or four of my 1/32 builds it would be prudent (does a Gordon Brown impression) to cast lots of them in resin. So I finished the rails in plasticard; the photo below shows them almost complete except for a few details. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyxxx Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Love the detail on the LAU-7. Spent many an hour loading 9 Limas onto Tornado F.3's and your modifications look spot on. Interested to see how you do the retaining clips for the fins on the front of the launcher. I am planning on modifying the launchers on a SU-27 and was going to use plastic strip. I may have a look at channels for that although been in 1/72 I may struggle. Just a couple of pointers, there are a couple of gaps in the rail where the missile hangars fit before they are slid forward. The hangars on the missile are small, medium and large from front to rear. The larger rear hangar doesn't have a corresponding gap but engages on the rear of the rail. The missile is pushed forward so the hangars clear the holes. As the missile moves along the rail the larger missile hangars pass over the smaller gaps preventing the missile hangars falling through. If that makes sense? The hangars on the missiles are T shaped with the under side bearing on the rail. I don't want to cause you extra work but the rail needs another strip on the vertical side of the rail for the missile to sit on. Sorry buddy. I will look through my photos and see if I have any references that may make more sense. Great work and I am following with interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyxxx Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 I hope this helps! The gap for the hangars is actually in the extra bit of the rail, not the part you have added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Hi Tyxxx, thanks for the info - I normally use decal to create the impression of the gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Covjets13 Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Great start, and I'll be following with great interest as this kit will be next on the build bench after the current stalled build. Si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 21 hours ago, Ludicrus Sextus said: Hi tomprobert, the same seats but otherwise a bit different in a few key areas. The main difference in the front office is a new, more traditional double combiner glass HUD and smaller panel below it where the ACM panel used to be. The other noticeable difference is a big ALR67 radar warning receiver and slight shift up of the UHF and VHF indicator panel. But I'm no expert on this. The pilot's right hand console has a couple of differences, two red buttons of the spoiler overide button have gone, in fact the whole overide panel has gone and the blank panel which used to be next to it on the "A" version now has a small analogue dial for liquid oxygen levels. There are other changes but as I say, I'm hardly an expert. When you get to the RIO's office you will see some big differences. The DACO book is a great reference source on the F-14A/B/D. I believe that JENS is also pretty knowledgeable. I'm a bit of a dinosaur and the "B" and "D" versions are alien to me, trying to keep up with the block differences on the F-14A tires me out. Many thanks for the response - looks like I'll be painting the cockpit rather than getting any etch for it then! Good luck with the rest of your build - loving it so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SallysDad Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Really enjoying this build. I am wondering why you did not go for a resin cockpit? Is there one with the accuracy you want? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 5 hours ago, Bendinggrass said: Really enjoying this build. I am wondering why you did not go for a resin cockpit? Is there one with the accuracy you want? To be honest I have boxes and boxes of etch and resin for future builds (I think that by now I should have shares in Hannants). About twelve years ago I built a Tamiya F-14A using the same technique for the cockpit and it looked different, not sure if it looked better as the Black Box/Teknics/Avionix/Aires resin pits carry an enormous amount of detail. Trying to fit them in is another matter. Another major factor - it seemed like fun. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 I'm painting the RIO's circuit breakers at the moment so nothing of interest to post but for anyone who has never seen this kit here are some shots of the parts, decals, instructions: Some of the landing gear parts which look good, whilst the canopy frame locks also look okay. The tails each come in two halves and have mid-life details/strengtheners at the tips (More about this later). How many kits provide landing gear doors for both open and closed models? You get ALQ-100 receiver for under the nose or the TCS pod which has the camera and ALQ-100 on it. Other goodies include some etch, rubber tyres and metal struts for inside the landing gear. Now we come to mystical world of F-14A blocks and the kit's decals. VF-1 Wolfpack, full fat, full throttle, high octane, sugar rushing, caffeine laden colour for a light-gull grey over white scheme. Wonderful! except that this kit would need a bit of surgery to bring it back to block 70 standards - Bureau Number 158979. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Very good start on this model, love the detail you added into the cockpit, will keep watching this thread Your plan is interesting too, there's no proper early Tomcat in 1/32 scale, will be interesting to see the various modifications. You may already have seen this one, here's a picture of "your" aircraft showing the early beavertail and tails http://www.gonavy.jp/bbs1/img/14184.jpg This aircraft later carried the experimental Ferris scheme and ended its career serving with reserve squadron VF-301 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Hi Giorgio, I'm not going to backdate fully and build the VF-1 CAG - I was extremely tempted but just wanted to show you what decals are supplied in the kit. There are two other squadrons, both colourful: VF-84 CAG Bu. No. 160393 VF-111 CAG Bu. No. 160656 (Not Miss Molly) This Tomcat will be from VF-33 Starfighters. Although a block 75 airframe it will require little work to model this. The 2nd batch of block 75 airframes started at Bu. No. 159421 and encompassed the tail tips with strengthening fingers, standard beaver tail, ALQ-100 chin pod, 7 vents for gun gas. This photo gives away two mods, no temperature probe on port side below the canopy and it has a nose pitot tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James G Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Loving all the detail added so far, the NATOPS manual is a nice touch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SallysDad Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 9 hours ago, Ludicrus Sextus said: To be honest I have boxes and boxes of etch and resin for future builds (I think that by now I should have shares in Hannants). About twelve years ago I built a Tamiya F-14A using the same technique for the cockpit and it looked different, not sure if it looked better as the Black Box/Teknics/Avionix/Aires resin pits carry an enormous amount of detail. Trying to fit them in is another matter. Another major factor - it seemed like fun. That is the answer that makes the most sense to me..... you had fun. And really, the quality of what you do is outstanding. I really am learning a lot by following along. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Very nice work and attention to detail. Maximum respect for your choice of scheme as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludicrus Sextus Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 At the start of this build I mentioned a good designer at Trumpeter and a crazy guy who would change his plans every time the good one left his desk, well that crazy chap is back again. I was exploring the fit of the engine nozzles and just happened to line them up with the engine and it's all wrong! The afterburner can which is ribbed comes right up to the engine nozzle outside lip. Trumpeter have the knack of tempting the modeller with good detail parts before throwing in a curved ball of totally missing or incorrect parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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