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larchiefeng

Pocher F40 with Autograph transkit upgrade challenge build

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On to the front portion of frame? I have jumped around a lot on construction. I am at the point of adding the 4 posts that are there to support all the weight of model. A little torn on this as I think it detracts from the overall detail. Any thoughts on this? I really would like to omit these. Just not sure the modified A arm mounts will hold full weight of finished model.

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OK, Greg, I see what you are talking about now. Yeah, you're right about them being added to support the extra weight of the kit so the whole car doesn't sag in the middle over time. Pocher added similar pieces to the "Classic" kits that, had all plastic frames to help support the weight of the model. Over time these models would start to sag in the middle so, it's just a way to relieve some of the stress on those areas of car. Autograph has also added these four plastic tubes to perform a similar function. Personally, I'm going to wait until the end of the build to either add them or not but, I'll probably add them just because of weight of the model. They're far enough under the car that I don't they will be all that noticeable. 

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I have done the modification to the body to clear the added brackets.i used a dremel and a reinforced cutting wheel. The metal is fairly thick in this area. There is a template included on the b sheet of photo etch. I used scrap sprue and some scratch building round stock to hold the template exactly where it needed to be and scratched the outline on with an exact knife. Then cut with the cutoff wheel, staying a bit back from lines so I could finish up with files and fingernail abrasive sticks. They are cheap at the nail care area of Walmart. Can’t say I’d want to do this on a finish painted body as there is quite a bit of metal to cut off. I used a variable speed Foredom to do the cuts because I can turn the speed down much lower so more control. The lowest speed my Dremel will go is 5000 RPM. Too fast to not have an accident. I wish you good luck on this step as it will be hard to fix. I will be painting the area as in Autograph pics... Matt black as it is an extension on the frame.

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Thanks Greg, I totally missed the template. I haven't been doing anything on the F-40 for a few weeks except thinking about it. When I found the step at the end and realized that the body was supposed to be cut, I blew right past the part about there being a template for the cut out. Today, when I went looking for it, it was missing from the PE fret. At this point the "B" PE sheet is pretty well used up and there aren't many parts left. I finally found it in a small container that I had put some PE pieces that didn't connect to anything any longer. 

I am well aware of just how thick the metal is on the model after having cut out the vents. I agree that the Dremel can get away from you pretty fast too. I will more than likely wait for it to warm up outside so, I can do this in the garage since the metal shavings will be everywhere while cutting the body. I think that, perhaps making or tracing the template out of masking tape will probably be easier and also act as a bit of protection against an errant cutting wheel. In any event, I plan on protecting the rest of the body prior to making the cuts. Thanks again for the heads up on the template.

Post some pictures or send me some of your progress, you have my email.

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Superb work (you should see my model room not been able to get in it for ages it's just become the dumping room)

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Just a quick update. The frame is done and the transaxle is almost done. If the weather stays warm tomorrow, I plan on making the cuts on the body to go around the frame. I will post pictures with a more complete update tomorrow.

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Well, it was nice and warm today and I did start the cutting on the body with the Dremel and a cut off wheel. I made the two long cuts on each side but then I decided that I wanted to finish the rest of the cuts with my band saw. However, to get to the band saw I have to move the Supra out of the garage to get to it and change the blade, I think. I can't remember if I put the metal cutting blade on it or not; it was a year ago. So, the body mods are on hold for a while and, it's really no big deal since I a ways away from needing it.

First up are the pictures of the frame finished and with the control arms mocked up on it. I also circled some of the bolts that were too long and needed to be cut off.

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 Done for now

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Started on the transaxle and then decided to do a wash. So here it is as started and very clean then progressing along

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A little too heavy

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A little cleaner

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Here you can see the sections that I applied the wash on are pointed out with the red arrows. When I get all the rest of the few bolts installed on the back side of the one case that has them on each side, I'll finish the whole thing. I just want enough wash in the nooks and crannies to give some depth not a lot of grease and grime; it is an F-40 after all.

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Various different views before I finish the wash but, making progress.

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I'm hoping to get a couple more steps done tomorrow while I'm on a roll.

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I assume that you are referring to the two 23mm long 1mm rods that go into the two holes on the bracket? I also just realized that I'm going to have to remove two bolts off the side of round cover on the side because there's a bracket that goes on the side of that cover. I just love it when you do everything in one step only to discover that something else needs to go on a few steps later and then you have to take apart what you just did! 

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Posted (edited)

Very nice work mate.....washes are looking good :clap:

 

Would love to get my hands on one of those engines and weather it in ;)

 

Ron

Edited by silver911

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Nice work Wayne.

 

Autograph has forgotten some bolts on both sides of the gearbox, but I think they will hardly be visible when the engine/gearbox is installed.

 

Grounded graphite from a pencil works great to change the sheen of the metallic painted parts.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Ron, that's high praise coming from the master at weathering and, I'm sure that I don't deserve it.

Thanks Pascal, I appreciate the tip and the heads up on the missing pieces.

 

I finished cutting the body to fit around the frame with only one small mishap and one side is slightly smaller than the other but, both are easily fixed.

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Next was the middle exhaust bracket to be made

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I decided that this bracket which was two pieces is probably only one so, I soldered them together. I'll probably find where I screwed up later on. Both sides

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Here's the rear exhaust bracket that Big was referring to as a fun one to build. At least it came with a template which I sort of modified to make it easier to solder the small cross pieces. This bracket was an eleven piece soldering exercise but, it wasn't really hard, just time consuming.

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I added four bolts as locating pins for the end pieces while I soldered the other ends to the side brackets.

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Edited by larchiefeng

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After making the cuts on the body, I had to get the rear frame out of it's storage container and check the fit. It fits well but, it's going to need some tweaking to get right. Here's where the files and probably come more cutting with the Dremel will come into play. The very rear left side that I thought was too thin is actually is more correct than the other side. Forward of the long skinny sections the under side seems to be too thick which, you can see around the shock towers in the third picture and, might need to be cut down some. The metal here is very thick and using a file alone is going to be very time consuming, couple that with no good way to hold it in place other than in my hands, it's not the optimum situation. Until I get this sorted out the Frisket will need to stay on to protect the paint. Once everything is cleaned and fitting properly, I can do a wet sand and shoot another clear coat.

 

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I took the soldered rear exhaust bracket out of the template jig and did some test fitting to see how it lines up with the holes in the back of the rear cover. Everything lines up as it should but maybe one or two of the end barrels might need to be slightly rotated, see both left side ends that are slightly twisted. I can lay it down on a piece of ceramic tile and quickly heat the joint to move them more flat.

 

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Let's see what progress I can make today.

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So, have you made this rear bracket yet Greg? Did you also find that the rear body area after the cut was a bit too chunky? Send me a couple pictures of where you're at with yours.

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I agree. It is a lot of work. I just finished adding the bolts to both sides of this section of the case and I still have to fix the rotation of the barrels on the ends of the big bracket. And, like you say, how much of it will actually be seen after the bottom pan is installed and then covered up on the top by the air boxes, inter coolers and muffler?

 

Most of this will be hidden.

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I still need to finish weathering the whole transaxle case.

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I'm experimenting with some different things but, on the case I'm using AK grease and grime but, I will probably play around with some graphite and maybe some rub and buff on it as well before I'm done.

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Yeah pretty much a pencil lead. It can be used ground up or in the pencil to highlight sort like dry brushing to highlight raised detail. Maybe on the ribs of the case or the Ferrari name stamped on the rear of the case. Or ground up and rubbed on, you kinda just have to play with it to get the look you want. I used the grease and grime just for depth in the low spots not necessarily because I wanted it all greasy; it is a Ferrari after all. I don't know how it will end up but we'll see. Like I said a few posts ago, I got it on too heavy and had to brush most of it off with white spirits. I painted the engine and transmission Tamiya silver leaf and then I clear coated it all before doing the weathering. The white spirits won't affect the clear coat and I could clean most of the weathering off without messing it up if I didn't like it.

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