larchiefeng Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 Thanks Pascal, I ordered the same eye bolts as in your picture. It was the only size with the long non-threaded shoulder and in nickle plate. I had already ordered two sizes of brass eye bolts and they have a bore of 1.2mm with a 2mm threaded shaft and the diameter of the head of the eye are the only size differences with one being 3.85mm or 5/32" and the other being 3.10mm or 1/8" in diameter. The nickle plated ones from Knupfer have a 1.8mm bore with a 3mm threaded shaft and as far as I can tell the diameter of the head of the eye is 4mm. So, all in all the head size is about the same but the bore is a little larger on the nickle ones. Since the brass is pretty soft, I can always drill out the bore if needed. I am measuring the molded on bolt heads on the turbo fittings so, I can try and get the eye bolts and bolt head replacements as close to the right size as possible. The T-10 & T-11 brass collar sleeves are what go over the braided lines to create the end sleeve for the pressure tube look. I may have already mentioned this but, I plan on using the eye bolt on the end of the hose that connects to the turbo and just the collar sleeve on the other end. Go back a little and look at post 438 with the parts diagram and look at the green and pink hoses and you will see the hose ends that the eye bolts are meant to replicate. Tonight, I managed to cut the waste gate pipes apart and I'll be working on those while, I'm waiting on the parts from Uli and Knupfer to arrive. In the meantime, I have more pictures to load up and resize to be able to post that, continue showing the muffler assembly. I will probably get those done in the next couple of days. Even though I'm working ahead, I do have pictures of work already completed, to post so, more to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 This is spectacular work. I am glad you are back at the bench working on this one. Thanks for all the detailed explanations and pictures. This is a treasure trove of info for future F40 builders in any scale! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible4130 Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 Hey larchiefeng, Great to see your project. I am currently working on the same model with the Autograph Transkit from Uli. And coincidentally I am at about the exact same spot as you are. Ive seen some great chronicles of this project in years past, but its cool to see someone building this significant kit NOW. I would love to share with everyone where I am at. Perhaps I will create my own forum thread so we can share our success (and frustration)! Great work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schwarz-Brot Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 1 hour ago, terrible4130 said: Hey larchiefeng, Great to see your project. I am currently working on the same model with the Autograph Transkit from Uli. And coincidentally I am at about the exact same spot as you are. Ive seen some great chronicles of this project in years past, but its cool to see someone building this significant kit NOW. I would love to share with everyone where I am at. Perhaps I will create my own forum thread so we can share our success (and frustration)! Great work. Please do post your work. It is a huge undertaking and something only few are privileged to do. When I was not in the position to afford such expensive kits I drooled over the threads by those who could. I know there's quite a few out there who feel the same. It is somehow like high gloss car magazines. Unlikely to get such a car soon or even ever for most, but still beautiful to watch at. @Pascal thank you for the hint on the eyebolts / Augenschrauben. Stupid me works with large sized ones quite often but was too dumb to realize they exist under the same name down to watchmaker sizes. "Betriebsblind", as we say in Germany. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 This is heating up in the best possible way. Terrible, X 2 what SB said... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Schwarz-Brot said: ... @Pascal thank you for the hint on the eyebolts / Augenschrauben. Stupid me works with large sized ones quite often but was too dumb to realize they exist under the same name down to watchmaker sizes. "Betriebsblind", as we say in Germany. Hi Schwarz-Brot, I've done some extensive research on miniature eyebolts / Augenschrauben. These are some of my findings : * the M-size (M2, M3, ...) always refers to the diameter of the thread of the bolt. Where as us modellers are more interested in the diameter of the eye and the hole. * there's basically 5 different types : 1 : with a circular piece (bund) under the eye, 2 : without the circular piece, 3 : with thread, 4 : without thread, 5 : with a stem and partial thread. * about 90% are made / available in Germany. * there's a lot of difference in quality, especially the roundness of the eye. * they're expensive. But I found a very nice alternative that is cheap as dirt. Sofar I've only found 1 size, but I only paid a couple of euro's for 100 pcs ! Tomorrow or thursday, I will take some photos and give the website where I bought them. Sincerely Pascal Edited September 17, 2019 by Pascal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 Thanks guys, great feedback!! I wasn't going to post again until I had the pictures re-sized but, I felt that I had to pop in for a quick comment or two; I will still post the pictures later. First off, good information from Pascal on the eye bolts and yes they are expensive. In my case I wasn't sure of the exact size that, I needed so, I know that I over bought. I'll have eye bolts for every build yet to come, lol. 😩 Welcome Terrible! I'm sure that everyone would love to see your build and progress. I too, have looked at just about every F-40 with the transkit build, in order to try and see what they did and where certain parts go etc. Those, along with the F-40 parts manual have been my best friend lately on the engine build. You should probably start your own thread but, you are welcome to post pictures here too. Originally, this thread was started as a two person build but, it turned into a one person build. Nobody's fault, just life, time, work space and a lot of other things stopped that and then, I went back to work which, has stalled me to a large degree. SB, I really like your comments and it is the best description of what the F-40 with a transkit build is about that, I've heard! I'm afraid that, I probably fall into the more money than brains category and I feel that, I only have moderate skills being brought to bear on this build. Sometimes, my pauses are due to trying to work things out in my head before continuing on and making a really big mistake. There's just too much money tied up to screw this up. However, I'm pretty certain it won't be a museum quality pristine build when finished. I never intended it to be that. If I can end up with a reasonably well built car that looks realistic then I'll be happy. So, onward and upward; I look forward to seeing Terrible's F-40 and working out some of the instructional issues together. There's nothing like someone else doing a similar build to inspire and push to to become better. More progress pics later today. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 Here's some more on the muffler and heat shield assembly. The bottom brackets get a small nut soldered on the underside for the bolt to thread in to when the muffler gets attached to the rear transaxle bracket Here you get a better view of the gasket between the muffler halves that the straps will get soldered to Backtracking a little, I added the bungs on the bolts previously installed. Some reference pictures show two on each side of the header and others only show two on each header. I'm going to have to go to the parts reference and see what it shows. Who knows I might be adding four more. One other thing that, I've been looking for are a larger size of these and I can't seem to find them; does anyone know where I can find something like a 2.5mm / W3.0mm aeroquip nut like these 1.6/1.8mm / W 2.0mm nuts from Autograph? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible4130 Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 I just did this assembly last night. I chose to do things a bit differently. Im sure it will be quite robust tho! I took a more mechanical route because I didnt feel comfortable soldering the SS nut to the brass. So I sandwiched an additional nut. Also added a touch of epoxy for safe keepings. One thing to note. I also soldered the bracket to the strap H7 while flat, while I was bending it it almost broke at the solder point. FYI. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 (edited) Yeah my muffler is already finished and painted. Those will be the next pictures that I post. When I soldered the brackets on the straps I got a little too much solder on and I had to file off the excess. I was slightly concerned about soldering the straps to the lip but it all held together fine. I do have a question about the studs and nuts that you used on the back of the cam covers. Where did you get them? I checked mine tonight and I had to use the stupid tiny watch screws supplied with the transkit. Looking at them, it’s as if I didn’t do anything there because they just disappear. Edited September 18, 2019 by larchiefeng Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible4130 Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 Yea, I used these: https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/products/nuts-acorn-nickel-plated-1-0-mm-n001n Then I cut a small piece of 1MM threaded rod, inserted in and then glued into the part with CA. I believe Knupfer offers those acorn nuts for cheaper actually come to find out. Ive seen some people also use small washers. I wish I would have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 Yeah, when I was doing that part of the build I tried to buy these from Marvin but, they were out of the steel acorn nuts and all they had was the brass ones and I didn’t want those. So, I just used steel bolts. But, actually what I was referring to is the two covers on the back of each head parts D11 and D12 and the little brass stud/nut combo that you used. That’s where I had to use the watch screws. I would probably change them out if I could get what you used. I couldn’t find anything like that when I was putting them on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible4130 Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 Are you referencing these? They are only imitation so they are extremely easy to work with. https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/simulated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 You can also find those at scaledetails and Knupfer. In the Knufper webshop they are Imitateschrauben. The acorn nuts are Hutmutter. Sincerely Pascal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 Thanks guys! I have some of the ones that come from MMC but, I think at the time I looked at them and thought that they were too big. I’m going to look at them again today after work. I really should have gone through the Knupfer website when I was ordering the eye bolts and checked to see if there was anything else that I needed. The shipping cost from Germany to California adds up for some tiny bolts not to mention how long it takes to get here! I’m still waiting for the nickel eye bolts. Last night I started playing around with the two sizes of the brass bolts to see which one looks like the right size. I did have to drill out the holes on both though. The stud/nut combo that you referred us to on the Knupfer website comes in a variety of sizes and I’m sure that there’s a more correct option if the ones from MMC don’t look right. But, they sure look good on T’s engine. What all this shows is that even given the cost and parts count of the transkit, there’s still a lot of extra hardware needed to really get the build more correct! I really wish I could find a larger size of the aeroquip fittings for the larger braided hoses. I just don’t like having to cut brass collars in half for the ends. They don’t look correct on all the hoses; some but not all. Pascal, I don’t suppose you have any idea where we can get those do you?? Thanks everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 Try these sites mate........ https://www.bestbalsakits.com/tamiya/tamiya.asp?man=71 https://www.hiroboy.com/Rivets_Nuts_Connectors_etc_--category--149.html Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 4 hours ago, larchiefeng said: ... I really wish I could find a larger size of the aeroquip fittings for the larger braided hoses. I just don’t like having to cut brass collars in half for the ends. They don’t look correct on all the hoses; some but not all. Pascal, I don’t suppose you have any idea where we can get those do you?? Thanks everyone! Hi Wayne, I guess the size of the hex nut from Autograph is 2 mm ? It will be very hard to find larger ones like 2,5 or 3 mm. But there is a way to make them yourself. If you have a lathe (or know someone that has one), buy a hexagonal rod of the desired diameter. With a lathe is easy to cut one end so that it is tapered, then drill a hole in the middle. I think you can do the same with plastic hexagonal rod and a dremel, but it will be hard to drill the hole dead center. PS : I'm pretty sure that Uli had them made for the transkit (don't think he made them himself), maybe you can ask him the name of his supplier and contact that supplier to ask if he has bigger sizes. Sincerely Pascal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 Thanks Pascal, good tip on the hex rod and it so happens that, I have some. Thanks Ron, I forgot about best balsa kits. Today I decided to shoot some pictures of most of the completed parts and post a couple from before when the paint was fresh. Like I said a while back, some of the body parts got a little damaged in the containers and I'm going to have to do a some wet sanding on a couple pieces and re-shoot the clear coat. So, what follows are some older pictures and ones that I shot today. I was going to shoot these with my Nikon DSLR but the batteries were dead so, iphone xs it was 🙁 Back in the day Today's pictures So guys, that's what has been completed and there are even more things like the radiator and some of the interior where I'm working with the Tremonia interior transkit for the LM version as well as a few resin LM parts like the front splitter and rear wing and things like that. But, for now, I'm concentrating on the engine. 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex SZ1996 Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 those transkit parts looks very nice, they really add a lot of details to the model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Well done, Wayne. Really cool stuff. I wish I could lay my hands on one of these Autograph sets. As I probably will not be able to, I will be happy to follow your build and hopefully Terrible will share his too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible4130 Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Its really cool seeing all the critical elements layed out like that. Time to assemble! Pouln, I have started to post my progress: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 25, 2019 Author Share Posted September 25, 2019 Thanks guys. Alex, yeah they really bring the model alive and transform what is a diecast toy into a great model. Hey Poul, long time no hear. Yeah, Terrible is moving along quite nicely on his build as well. All you guys should follow what he's doing on his build too! Just a quick update here; I am still waiting on the replacement parts from Uli in order to continue on the turbos and step 16b. I have the braided lines pretty much ready to go but, I want all the fittings for the turbos before I make the hoses. Once the turbos are mounted or at least mocked up I can measure them exact and finish making each hose end with a collar and or eye bolt to connect both ends of the hoses. I have been working on some small stuff and, I received the eye bolts from Knupfer to go along with the ones I got from Proctor-Enterprises so, now I have 3 different size eye bolts! That's about 20 more eye bolts than I need but, you never know when you will need hardware for scratch building something. I do have some more pictures to post but, I'll have to do it tomorrow once I get them sized down and ready to post. In the meantime I might just start building some of the other sub-assemblies like fuel tanks or oil cooler radiators etc. When I pulled out all the body parts I found the main radiator that, I forgot that I had put together a long time ago so, maybe a few more things like that can be built while I wait. More tomorrow. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 26, 2019 Author Share Posted September 26, 2019 OK guys, here's tonight's update. I started adding the white metal fittings to the turbos and, it was right about here that, I discovered that I was missing the lower fittings. And a quick side note, I emailed Uli on the status of those parts last night and he responded this morning. The parts should be here either by the end of the week or next week. You can see where the last fitting goes in the turbo at the bottom of the picture. OK, we pick up with the PE being attached to the muffler The solder got a little sloppy but, I did my best to file and sand off the excess solder before painting. Oh, and another thing; before I did anything here I used metal etching primer on all of these parts so, when I was done soldering, I at least had some primer on the metal. I used the Tamiya etching primer which, is clear so, it really doesn't show up as anything. Pretty ugly with the solder and, I did try to melt off the excess but, it really didn't respond as I had hoped. I decided that I would rather just file it down. This solder was a lot harder than I thought it would be; it was more like silver solder than lead/tin. After some file work. I wasn't overly concerned with the scratches because I am weathering it later on You can see my notes on the turbo braided lines from the parts manual where I colored the hoses in the drawing. Those were preliminary measurements to get started until I get things mounted and cut them to exact lengths Preparing the whole assembly for primer after cleaning it up Primer First coat of under layer of paint. Got to get the muffler looking more like the engine. BTW, the brass gasket between the plastic muffler halves has a rough texture on it so, it's not a mistake that it looks that way. However, I will take responsibility for the lousy solder work at the ends of the straps where they meet the gasket. 😂 Mocking up the muffler on the engine and it's quite apparent the muffler needs weathering More weathering on the muffler and the pipes that were cut off next time 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted September 26, 2019 Share Posted September 26, 2019 On 9/25/2019 at 1:20 AM, terrible4130 said: Its really cool seeing all the critical elements layed out like that. Time to assemble! Pouln, I have started to post my progress: Ah, found it. Love following you progress too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 26, 2019 Author Share Posted September 26, 2019 Hi Poul, my cam covers are supposed to be just aluminum. My reference is a dvd that shows the F40 being taken apart from a wrecked F40 and another one that was wrecked too and, they were just plain aluminum. I see what you mean on my pictures though. I think that the flash makes them look shinier than they really are. I’ve also seen the light gray on them too. When I was painting them I thought about painting them the gray but, I opted for just a natural aluminum. The unfortunate part is that, when the engine is in the car you will probably not even see the front of the engine from the top or bottom. There’s a large vented piece of PE that covers the whole bottom of engine/frame area when done. It kinda makes you wonder about spending all the time to get it correct with the details etc. But, it’s the old “at least I’ll know it’s there “ mentality. Well, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it! 🥴 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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