giemme Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 She's almost ready for painting! Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 Not sure why I'm doing this, as it's not likely to be noticed by anyone, but what the heck - I have the photoetch fret, and the instructions say to do it. So I did it! This, of course, is one of the radiator flaps, which I'll be posing open. In addition to using photoetch for the sides of the flap (complete with the riveted flange attaching them to the flap proper) there are two braces and a reinforcing strip. It will be interesting to see what this looks like underneath some paint. I've posed a completed flap with a non-modified flap from the kit for comparison. You can see that I had to fill three ejector pin marks, which Tamiya cleverly engineered into the inside of the flap where no one will see them. This is the same inside of the flap where Eduard has us add these extra details where no one will see them. When the flaps are attached to the radiator shroud, Eduard also provide the hinge mechanism. They provide two different approaches to the problem; I'll be using whichever one is easier for my fumble-thumbs. Now, speaking of paint, I've begun painting the fuselage. At this point, a coat of Ocean Grey (Colourcoats ACRN07) is on the wings. My tin has been around for a while, having a WEM label. @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies - please tell me the formula has not changed! OK, back to work... Cheers, Bill 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 6 hours ago, Navy Bird said: Now, speaking of paint, I've begun painting the fuselage. At this point, a coat of Ocean Grey (Colourcoats ACRN07) is on the wings. My tin has been around for a while, having a WEM label. @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies - please tell me the formula has not changed! OK, back to work... Cheers, Bill The formula has not changed 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 ...and some photoetch for the radiators and whatnot... Interesting that one of the four pieces doesn't get any. Must have been on Sant's bad list. The construction of the radiator assemblies, and their attachment to the fuselage, can wait until the very end. This is a nice design feature, and makes painting all this stuff much easier. In the meantime, I'm continuing with the painting. I'm going to wait until the fuselage paint job is finished to post any photos - no teasers! Unless something occurs which is noteworthy... Cheers, Bill 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 Question - was the tail wheel linked to the rudder? In other words, if I pose the rudder in a non-neutral position, does the tail wheel also need to be rotated? Since I have the flaps up, I was planning on moving some of the control surfaces just for added interest and effect - ailerons (one up, one down), rudder, and elevators. They would just be moved a wee bit. Cheers, Supermarine challenged old man (who should probably have all control surfaces neutral if that's the way they were parked) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 If its sitting on the airfield, the elevators would be drooping anyway and the stick would be flopped forward a bit. The ailerons probably would be level unless the stick had been pushed to one side, rudder most likely to be off centre and although the tail wheel wasn't linked, if the tail had swing round when parking then it would have been off centre too. For example: Just google 'parked spitfire' for more 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldwin8 Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 4 hours ago, Navy Bird said: Question - was the tail wheel linked to the rudder? Answer here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234936042-spitfire-tail-wheel-question/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 Thanks mates. The answer to my tailwheel and rudder question was what I suspected, but it's always best to ask people who actually know! Getting ready to paint the fuselage - and I remembered I need to finish a couple of things in the cockpit before the canopy and windscreen go on. Nothing major, just the oxygen hose and the reflector sight. The "glass" in the gunsight is a bit thick, but I don't think it will be objectionable. This gunsight is not what came with the kit, but rather a resin replacement from Barracuda (except for the glass...). You can't see it in the photo (and you really can't see it with your eyes either) but the tick marks for the gunsight dials were supplied as decals. I dutifully put them on. There is also a resin piece that attaches to the inside of the windscreen that represents the gunsight mounting bracket, but I, uh, er, how to say? I busticated it. I could try and make a new one, or just crawl under the nearest rock and suffer my wretchedness with much lamentation. Or perhaps just get on with it. The windscreen and rear glass will be permanently mounted next, and then I will temporarily attach the access door and the sliding canopy in the closed position. There are a couple of spots where paint could still leak into the cockpit with this arrangement, like the mounting hole for the rear view mirror and the aft end of the sliding canopy, so I have to plug those somehow. Still haven't decided on the marking - leaning towards Lorne Cameron's AE-W BS152. I like that cool skull. 💀 Cheers, Bill 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 You actually put those decals on? Nutter. The pit looks excellent as I have come to expect from you. just looked up AE-W and I really like it, cool skull and little Canadian badge, what not to like. Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 Forgot to mention - the clear canopy parts are astoundingly clear. And thin, I found myself treating them gently so I wouldn't break one! I was going to forego the usual Future/Kleer dip, but then noticed a just barely discernible moulding line on top of the sliding canopy. Of course, this was required in order to properly catch the cross-sectional shape of the canopy. This parting line was removed easily with an assortment of Micro-Mesh pads, but to bring it back to like-new shine, a Future bath was in order. So I did the other pieces too, even though they really didn't need it. Cheers, Bill 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 9 minutes ago, rob85 said: You actually put those decals on? Nutter. Yup. Can you see them? Cheers, Bill 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 2 minutes ago, Navy Bird said: Yup. Can you see them? I can. Great job Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Good lord 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 12 minutes ago, rob85 said: Good lord Quite Looking very nice in there Bill Cheers, Stew 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 I can see them too! Great stuff Bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 38 minutes ago, CedB said: I can see them too! See what....?? K 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 (edited) What about a piece of shaved cocktail stick to plug the rear view mirror mounting hole, and a small roll of moistened tissue under the rear of the canopy? John Edited March 1, 2019 by Biggles87 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 2 hours ago, Biggles87 said: What about a piece of shaved cocktail stick to plug the rear view mirror mounting hole, and a small roll of moistened tissue under the rear of the canopy? John Or tiny blue tack blobs, maybe? Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzby061 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 A very nice pit indeed, the extras that you've put in lift it from excellent to astounding. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 11 hours ago, keefr22 said: See what....?? I don't know - I can't see them! ** My plan to use the sliding canopy to mask off the cockpit won't work, as its rear edge overlaps the front of the fixed rear glass. Instead, I used masking tape (sticky side up) to mask around the edges of the opening, and then filled in the rest with more strips of tape. Should work - I hope, seeing as the first coat of Ocean Grey is on. This is also my primer, and I can see a few areas that need some touch-up. Those of you who occasionally follow my builds know that I do not pre-shade. My opinion (and it's just that) is that aircraft don't weather that way in real life, and that it looks somewhat unnatural to see a fuzzy, darker version of the colour neatly aligned with all the panel lines (I admit to having a few models in my collection guilty of this sin). Also, for the pre-shading to show through, you have to put down a transparent coat of the colour. For a two colour camouflage scheme like this, it is difficult to make both the grey and green equally transparent. Does that make sense to anyone, or am I clinging to the last tendrils of my sanity again? Instead, I use post-shading techniques, as I feel that I have more control over it. Subtlety is the key to weathering, I think. Still I mightily struggle for the right degree of subtle Sorry, thought I was a poet again. I assembled the underside air scoop and the drop tank. Photos of AE-W show the short air inlet and the tank installed. Tamiya have done some clever engineering so that you don't have to decide whether you want the gear retracted or not - you can have both. The components that allow you to make the change are added to the model with screws, or with "rivets" that push into hidden poly-caps. Quite clever, actually. Both the air scoop and drop tank have rivets, and they seem to slide in fine. I think I would prefer glue, however, as I don't expect I'll be changing the landing gear often. I had to do a bit of PPP work on the seam side the air scoop, since this was made from two parts (left-right). Tamiya also provide a display stand which I won't be using, and that saves me from drilling a hole in the bottom of the tank. Back to the airbrush... Cheers, Bill 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 13 hours ago, Navy Bird said: Does that make sense to anyone, Makes perfect sense to me Bill, exactly what I think too, if that's worth anything!! Spit's looking smooth in grey! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 13 hours ago, Navy Bird said: Does that make sense to anyone, or am I clinging to the last tendrils of my sanity again? Makes sense to me too Bill and I second Keith's compliment on the smooth. Nice masking too 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 This build is quite simply outstanding Bill. Just doing some catch up today. The level of detail and realism is truly amazing. This could really tempt me into bigger scale sooner than I had planned! I keep opening the box and pawing over the contents of my 1/32 MDC Resin Typhoon ...............😂 Terry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share Posted March 2, 2019 8 hours ago, Terry1954 said: I keep opening the box and pawing over the contents of my 1/32 MDC Resin Typhoon ...............😂 Ooh...I'm jealous. I have this thing for resin, it's how I ruined myself. ** My lady is up on her legs, even if just temporarily. The tailwheel simply slides into its poly-cap, and the main gear legs are held in place with blocks attached with screws. I wondered (if only slightly, this being Tamiya and all) how the alignment of the legs would be, since once they are in place there is no real adjustment or wiggle-room. No need to fear, the alignment looks superb, according to Mk.I Eyeball rev 42/6 mod 63. And she be grey. But then I went and did this... Because splotchiness is next to Godliness (apologies to Sir Francis Bacon. Or was it John Wesley? Or perhaps John Wesley Harding? Or maybe even Bob Dylan? I'm so confused.) Cheers, Bill PS. You may notice that the rudder is neutral. After adding a bit of glue, I dutifully posed it just slightly askance, as I alluded to earlier. Unbeknownst to me, Tamiya rudders automatically return to neutral after parking the aircraft, and there the glue did dry. PPS. Now, where are those rubber and horsehair mats I had around here somewhere... 15 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 She looks gorgeous! Nice pre-shade on the grey, BTW... Ooops, I meant post-shade.... Sorry, just teasing you. I use both techniques and, unlike you, can't really decide what is better for me. Ciao 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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